So, you want to grow some agapanthus in pots or plant containers.
Those tall, purple and blue flowers. Those dome-like blooms. And those majestic green stalks.
With the added ability to move them around in pots.
How awesome would that be?
Agapanthus can be used for so many things- decoration, pathing, edging, background/foreground plant, centerpiece, and even indoors to brighten up the place.
Thankfully, it’s versatile enough to tolerate being planted in a container. And we’ll talk about everything you need to know to grow it in a pot.
Let’s get started.
Last updated: 11/10/21.
Guide Contents
Quick care guide: Agapanthus
| Plant type | Perennial |
| Origin | South Africa |
| Scientific name | Agapanthus praecox |
| Other names | Lily of the Nile, African Lily |
| Soil type | Fertile, rich, loamy |
| Soil pH | 6-7 (slightly acidic to neutral) |
| Sunlight requirement | 6-8 hours, full sun |
| Bloom season | Spring, Summer |
| Colors | Blue, white, green, purple, yellow |
| Max height | 3 feet |
| Max width | 3 feet |
| Low temperature tolerance | 40F |
| High temperature tolerance | 65F |
| Ideal temperature range | 50-60F |
| Humidity | Moderate, 50% |
| Watering requirements | 1" per week |
| Fertilizer requirements | Light feeding before blooming season |
| Plant food NPK | 5-5-5 or 10-10-10 |
| Days until germination | 2-4 weeks |
| Days until bloom | Within the first year of planting |
| Speed of growth | Slow |
| Hardiness zones | 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 |
| Plant depth | 2" from seed |
| Plant spacing | 36" between bulbs |
| Plant with | Wisteria, hydrangea, daisies, dianthus, alyssum, bird of paradise, coneflower |
| Don't plant with | Plants in the same family |
| Propagation method | Seed, bulb, transplant |
| Common pests | Gnats, spider mites, thrips, mealybugs, slugs, snails |
| Common diseases | Fungus, gray mold, leaf spot, anthracnose, powdery mildew, root rot |
| Indoor plant | Yes |
| Outdoor plant | Yes |
| Grown in container | Yes |
| Flowering plant | Yes |
| Beginner friendly | Yes |
| Care level | Low (easy) |
| Best uses | Decoration, houseplant, bordering, background plant, foreground plant, pathing plant, potted plant |
What’s agapanthus?
If you’re trying to grow agapanthus in a container, you probably already know.
But for those who heard about this gorgeous plant from a friend or neighbor, here’s a brief introduction.
Agapanthus are those tall flowering bi-colored flowers with the signature purple white, and blue petals. They’re tall, majestic, and commonly grow in bunches that look like giant balls of flowers.
The base of the plant is a dome-shaped eruption of green foliage with the flowering petals poking out as its many antennae.
While this plant is pretty common, it’s rarely seen in containers.
They’re native to some parts of the US, which is why they’re so commonly found in the southern parts. They’re also found in Mexico and South Africa, among other countries.
This is where they likely got their nickname “African lily” even though they’re not classified as a lily plant.
So just by planting some in pots, you’re already standing out from the crowd. Put them in your garden, front yard, or around the home as decorative pieces.
The best part about growing agapanthus in a plant container is that it’s easy to relocate them if needed.
So let’s get started already and learn how to raise these gentle giants in pots.
Agapanthus is poisonous
Note that this plant is a poisonous and toxic plant to both humans, dogs, cats, and other animals.
Don’t let your kids or other people touch it or ingest it. Keep animals away from them.
As common as it is, the sap from agapanthus will cause skin irritation and allergic reactions, especially for those that are sensitive.
Always use gloves and proper protective gear when handling, pruning, or trimming agapanthus.
Can agapanthus be grown in pots?
Agapanthus can be planted in pots, provided that the conditions are optimal.
Like any other plant, when the environment is confined to just a small container, the soil’s nutrient profile is critical.
And so is the watering schedule. Both of these need to be optimal for the best plant growth because it doesn’t have access to “unlimited” resources and “unlimited” drainage like it would in the soil.
So while you can grow and raise perfectly large agapanthus in a container, there are some steps to take that differ from planting in the soil.
Follow these guidelines for healthy flowers and a strong, sturdy stem in your African lily.
Pros and cons of container planting
Pros:
- Easier to move around when winter comes
- Neat and tidier
- Easier to manage
- Relocation and decor can be changed at anytime
- Sunlight levels can be adjusted
- Decorative pots can be used to achieve symmetry
Cons:
- A watering schedule needs to be followed
- Soil nutrients need to be bountiful
- Smaller containers will need to be replaced
- The plant may undergo transplant shock
- Larger containers are expensive
Check your hardiness zone
Planting in the right hardiness zone is the first step to ensuring a healthy plant!
You’d be surprised at how many people plant something that’s not the right strain or the right plant for where they live. It doesn’t work like that.
You need to choose the right cultivar specific to your zone so your plant will thrive. This is to ensure a native environment that the plant can tolerate and doesn’t have to struggle.
Most agapanthus grows in zones 8-10, but some cultivars are hardier to cold and can tolerate zones as low as zone 6-7.
- Agapanthus grown in zones 8 and higher is evergreen.
- Agapanthus grown in zones 6-7 is deciduous.
Some cultivars are semi-evergreen, so they can be both types and this depends on the zone they’re grown in. Changing the zone changes the type of plant they are.
If you don’t already know your hardiness zone, you can find out here. Get your zone and then choose a cultivar of agapanthus that works for you.
There are about 10 recognized strains and many hybrids.
Each one has an optimal growing zone and varies in color. If you only care about the color of the petals, start with the hardiness zone first, then narrow it down by color.
Don’t choose only by color because if it’s the wrong zone, it won’t be so hot.
When to plant
The best time to plant is in the fall, right before the winter dormancy period.
This allows the plant the most time it can get to develop strong roots over the spring and summer so it can tolerate the winter cold.
The flowers will have been spent and wilted already, so it redirects its energy to the roots and preserves itself for overwintering.
During this low-energy state, the plant can be transplanted into a new container and slowly acclimated to its new environment.
After the winter, the agapanthus will grow again in the springtime and show off its pretty flowers for you to enjoy.
Picking a container
For optimal growth, choose a container large enough to fit a full size, established agapanthus from the beginning.
It’ll be cheaper overall because you don’t have to transplant it to a larger pot later on when it outgrows the previous container.
Plus, it has more tolerance to water swings and more soil for nutrients.
- The smaller the container, the more precise with all the soil metrics you have to be.
- The larger the container, the more forgiving it is overall.
Sure, the smaller pots are cheaper. But think of it as an investment.
If you must use a smaller pot, choose one that’s at least 12” in diameter. It should be at least 14” deep for the plant to establish strong, extensive root systems.
The roots will take up all the space you provide it. So the larger the pot, the longer the root system. This will result in healthy blooms with plenty of colors since the plant has ample roots to collect nutrients and water from the soil.
Note that if you overdo it, you may have some variation in the number of blooms it produces yearly. If the container you chose is too large, you’ll likely see a lot of flowers in the first season or two, but then it tapers off the following years until the roots catch up to the size of the container.
Lastly, you can plant more than one agapanthus per container- provided that it’s large enough.
The material of the pot doesn’t matter. Terra cotta pots are the classic container for this plant, but they’re extremely heavy when you get into the larger sizes.
And they’re expensive, too.
Plastic pots are lightweight and less than 1/3 of the price of terra cotta potters, but they don’t have that potted look to them. It all depends on your preferences.
You can start with a cheaper plastic one for your younger plant and upgrade later on if you wish.
Ceramic pots also look good, but they’re heavy and pricey just like terra cotta. Stone and metal pots also exist.
They do like to be root-bound
A quick note: Choosing a larger container is always good practice for most plants- especially for beginners. It beats upgrading each time the plant outgrows it, which could be very expensive over time.
For agapanthus, you’ll have to upgrade to a larger pot that’s about 2″ larger than the previous one when it outgrows it.
However, if you choose a pot that’s way too big, you may not get optimal flowering either.
This is because agapanthus likes to be root-bound in a way that the roots touch the edge of the container and start to curl. But they don’t like to be cramped and squished.
So this is a balancing act. Don’t choose a container that’s too small, but don’t overdo it either.
For convenience’s sake, a larger container will save you money and reduce effort because you don’t need to keep transplanting it over and over to a bigger pot.
Ensure proper drainage
This is a must. You need to check the bottom of the pot for proper drainage holes.
There should be multiple drain holes, not a single one because it can get clogged and waterlog your planter. I always suggest at least 3 holes on the bottom to ensure drainage even if one gets clogged.
Soil becomes clumpy and hard over time, especially when plant food is added to the mix. Some plastic pots make you drill the drainage holes yourself.
Don’t think of this as a drawback! You can drill them as needed- strategically and multiple so that it doesn’t clog. Adequate drainage is crucial for any plant.
Agapanthus will need it to grow those blue and purple flowers for you to enjoy.
Make sure it’s secure
Whatever planter you choose, make sure that it’s bottom-heavy.
The base of the pot should be sturdy so that it doesn’t tip over at the slightest breeze. If high winds are common in your area, you should ensure that the planter won’t blow over or fall over.
Use a wide base with a secure foundation.
Where to place your container
Your pot should be ideally placed somewhere that receives direct sunlight (anywhere from 6-8 hours daily). It should also be free of drafts, strong winds, and won’t ever topple over.
To enjoy the blooms, you can place the potter where it’ll be visible as a foreground plant. Corners, edges, and patio centerpieces all are excellent places to put the container.
Growing agapanthus in containers
Here are various suggestions to help you plant your agapanthus in a pot.
Depending on your hardiness zone, cultivar, and your local climate, you’ll have to adjust as needed.
However, these should work as general guidelines for raising this plant in a planter regardless.
So let’s get started.
Soil type
Choosing the right soil shouldn’t be a difficult decision.
This plant isn’t picky about the soil type you use, but it should have some basic necessities for optimal plant blooms:
- Choose a well-draining soil
- Use organic or natural soils
- A loamy soil mixed with compost or manure provides nutrients
- Use a water-retaining mix
- Soil pH should be between 5-7 (slightly acidic)
To improve the plant’s drainage, you can add some sand, rocks, or pebbles at the base of your planter to help prevent soil from building up. This will also help keep the drain holes throughput high and stop soil clumping at the base. Agapanthus doesn’t like to have wet feet, as this will cause root rot and fungal problems.
Adding some free-draining loam compost also helps. You can also consider some coarse sand, gravel, or horticultural grit. These all help improve the soil’s draining and keeps your plant from getting wet feet.
Fill your container
Now that you have a platter and soil picked out, you’re ready to fill your pot with the substrate that’ll nourish your agapanthus and feed it!
First, use a 70% rubbing alcohol solution and disinfect the entire thing. You don’t need any more bacterial or fungal infections to deal with later on. You can also leave the planter outside in the full sun for a day or so to kill any pathogens naturally.
After that, start filling it up with the soil. Don’t pack it tightly or press down on it. Just let it fill naturally up to the rim of the container. There should be 2-3” of space from the rim to the soil surface so you have space to water without the water escaping over the edges.
Transplanting
So now you have its new home all set up and ready to go. The next step is up to personal preference on how you want to start your plant.
Note that this plant comes in a variety of different strains, and some are full hardy while others are half-hardy. But don’t get careless just because it’s a full hardy plant.
Even the hardiest plants may need care over the winter if you’re in a colder zone. Since you’re planting in a pot, you can bring it indoors or into a greenhouse.
Planting from transplants
This is by far the most popular method to start. A pre-grown plant from the nursery is ready to go and can be transplanted immediately into its new home.
This plant comes in small containers when purchased from the garden center, and you can emulate it at home by planting it in an identical environment.
The plant is already used to its current conditions, so if you can create a nearly identical environment, it has the best chance of establishing roots in the pot you created.
Plus, it’ll reduce transplant shock as well.
Carefully remove the agapanthus from the original container. Take note of how deep the roots are, how wide the potter is, and how deep it’s planted.
The roots will be complex and extensive at the base- with a bunch of white-yellow runners all clumped together. They may start to separate from the original form and fall apart into the container.
That’s fine, but keep them at the base. Try to keep it from shifting too much when you transplant. Note the shape of the roots before you push them into your container.
Do the same with your container and try to reproduce it.
The roots should be backfilled with compost and slightly compressed to remove any air pockets.
These pockets will create dead zones in your soil and lead to anaerobic pathogens.
However, don’t press down on the soil from the top- only the roots. After you finish backfilling the soil, water generously for the first time. You can top it off with a small layer of mulch for water retention.
Planting from seed
Starting from seed i