There are many types of them available on the market, but the most common one has that signature lime green with pink staining on the large leaves.

They DO require extra care compared to other houseplants, but it’s nothing even a newbie can’t do!

With patience and a dedication to learning about Begonia x rex-cultorum, you can make them thrive indoors.

Toxicity warning!

Rex begonias are toxic to dogs, cats, and sensitive individuals.

The plant contains insoluble calcium oxalate, which is found all over the plant, but especially in the leaves, stems, rhizomes, and roots.

Contact or ingestion can cause vomiting, salivation, or other adverse effects. Ensure that people and pets can’t come into contact with it.

Wear gloves and proper protective gear when handling.

Always wash your hands thoroughly after contact, or any other object or body part that touches it. It can also cause skin irritation.

Quick care guide: Rex begonia

What’s rex begonia?

This pretty herbaceous hybrid is a common plant that’s grown indoors.

It’s a hardy perennial that’s suited for outdoor growth only in zones 10-12. It can be grown as an annual if you’re outside of that zone.

If you want to propagate it as a perennial though, and you’re not in zones 10-12, then you’ll have to shelter it inside. But you knew that, right?

They’re known for their showy, large leaves. The blooms? Not so much. They’re tiny and most gardeners will cut them off to focus the energy on the leaves.

Rex begonias aren’t the same as other rhizomatous begonias because they have larger leaves with different husbandry.

Most of these plants have rounded, dense, teardrop leaves. They can get up to 7” wide depending on care, species, and hybrids.

They can also have long, skinnier leaves too. The leaves are metallic with silver coloration with a green, gray, or pastel hue.

The leaves are puckered with veins. There are splotches with contrasting leaf margins. There are dozens of patterns available, but the most common colors include taupe, cream, purple, pink, lavender, red, or gray.

There are over 500 different identified cultivars of rex begonia!

Types of rex begonia

There are many types of rexes to choose from. This can be the hardest part of the entire process!

But limit it to what grows in your zone, then go by color. This will narrow it down. Many hybrids look very similar to each other.

But if you don’t want to do the deep dive, check out these popular cultivars:

• Rex Tango (metallic purple foliage with silver edges, stronger leaf coloration)
• Spitfire (pink leaves with silver/green edges, 8″ tall and wide)
• Tornado (exotic, dark green leaves with silver, copper, purple)
• Yamileth (green/black leaves, silver edges)
• Ballet (silver-green leaves, mid-green edges, 8″ tall)
• Rumba (8″ tall, greenish leaves, silver variegation)
• Salsa (silver leaves with variegated green/burgundy)
• Silver Limbo (small, compact, metallic silver, purple, 5″ tall)
• Flamenco (silver green, green veins, 8″ tall)

Propagation

Rex begonia can be propagated in multiple ways. Some are easier than others. See which one works for you.

From seed

Starting from seed is difficult and takes a long time. I would suggest skipping over this if possible, unless you like a challenge.

What makes starting from seed so difficult?

The plants are hybrid, so that means that plants that germinate from saved seeds won’t grow true.

They also are extremely hard to plant because they’re tiny. Plus, they’re hard to germinate in the first place. For these reasons, you should avoid starting from seed. There are easier ways.

From cuttings

If you want to do it from cuttings, you should know that it’ll take a lot of time to do so.

You’ll need consistent effort to propagate rex begonias from leaves, but it’s possible.

This is why starting from rhizomes is the easiest recommended method. But if you’re looking for a project, perhaps this will tickle your fancy.

Propagating from leaf cuttings is often the ideal way to do it if you want to grow more of a specific cultivar or expand your species collection.

When you share cuttings, you can get different species in your garden.

To start from cuttings, snip off a leaf at the base of the stem, then remove the stem itself. Make 5 small 0.25” cuts through the main veins on the underside of the leaf.

Prep a small, shallow pot filled with high-quality soil. Pin the leaf on the surface using propagation pins. You can also DIY it and use a floss stick if you have one.

Mist the surface of the leaf. Put it somewhere warm with high humidity.

Use a plastic bag or humidity dome to preserve it. Mist it daily to keep it moist. After 6-8 weeks, you should have small plants coming out from the leaf cuts.

Move them into individual pots by gently uprooting them from the soil. It’s probably easier to wet them first so they can dislodge easily.

Repot when they’re about 3 inches tall so they have built some strong root systems.

From rhizomes

Rex begonia can be grown from rhizome cuttings. This is preferred over starting from seed because it saves time, energy, and heartbreak.

You can buy small rhizome cuttings online or get some from a friend. Check your online local groups. The rhizome must be taken from fully grown specimens.

The rhizome should have its roots and foliage already attached. You just need to use a sterilized knife to slice a piece from one end of the rhizome.

Ensure that it has no leaves, if it does, cut them off. Let it sit in a shady area for a few hours to dry out.

Get a small potter or use a seed starter kit. Fill it with a high-quality, moist, potting mix. Put the rhizome on top, then press it so the root side is below the soil line.

The top part should remain above. Put the plant in a humid area with bright, dappled sunlight.

Spritz regularly with a spray bottle. Keep it moist, but never wet. The rhizome will start growing new roots and leaves within 2-3 weeks.

Put a plastic bag over the pot. This helps keep the moisture in. Keep it at room temperature. The ideal time to root rhizomes is between late spring to summer.

This gives them time to grow before the winter, when they stop growing. They’ll have some meat on the bone, to say the least.

When they get large enough, it’s time to repot! Repot to a larger pot by tipping the plant from the potter. Brush the debris off.

Cut the leaves/roots off by removing the entire rhizome section. Repot using the same mix with the same shallow pots you’d use for other older plants. They’ll acclimate and then start growing within 2 weeks.

From transplants

When cuttings or seeds aren’t your thing, go to the nursery to buy a new plant!

This is by far the quickest method, but it’s the most expensive. You’re paying a premium to get a head start on a germinated rex begonia.

Get your container ready by finding one of the same size. Prep it with high-quality soil.

Scoop out enough soil so you can place the rhizome halfway above the soil. Firm the soil. Water gently establishes water pathways. It should drain quickly.

How to care for rex begonia

This section covers general care for rex begonia plants. You don’t need special skills to grow them. You just need to know some basics.

Hardiness zone

Rex begonias thrive in USDA hardiness zones 10-12. But this only matters for the great outdoors, not inside the house.

You can easily grow rex begonia as a houseplant even in the lower zones if conditions are good inside your house.

Many gardens in the community will grow these guys as houseplants that spend all year inside, except for the summertime when they’ll get some natural sunlight outside.

If you want the beauty of it outside, you can grow it as an annual.

But then you’ll need to be within zones 10-12. It can also be hard to provide the right amount of humidity, temperature, and watering to keep the plant thriving.

They’re also finicky about their light source. But you’ll find that the color they reward you with is worth it.

Soil

Providing a suitable substrate is the most important step in your plant’s success. Rex begonia requires a porous, peat-based medium.

Go to your local garden center in search of an African violet mix. This is suitable for rexes.

If you can’t find it, you can use a regular potting mix. Just mix it with perlite or compost to help improve the drainage.

Soil pH

Rex begonias should have a peat-based potting mix with a pH of 5.7-6.4.

They have a very fine root system that requires quick-draining soil with high-quality peat-based substrate. They like acidic soils.

Spacing

Rex begonias don’t like to crowd. They can get up to 24” wide, so provide ample spacing between plants. You should only plant one per container.

If garden sowing, provide 36” for a buffer zone. You can plant multiple if they’re not in pots.

Depth

Plant seeds on the soil surface. For rhizome-based specimens, plant the top half above the soil line. For rhizome-less ones, place the crown even with the soil line.

Sunlight

These plants will need adequate sunlight. This is one of the things that makes it difficult to grow rex begonia indoors.

They need a lot of light, but they don’t want direct light. You need to find a spot that has dappled sunlight. It should be bright, but never direct.

Use filtered or dappled light or use a grow light. If you put the plant near a sunny window, rotate the pots weekly by a quarter so it gets light equally.

If your plant grows lopsided, this is why. They can handle full or partial shade if you grow the outside. But inside, you need to give them ample light.

When transferring outside, they need some time to harden off. Give them a week of increasing light exposure.

Temperature

Rex begonias thrive in daytime temperatures around 70F and 60F by night. This will encourage your plant to grow nice and big.

During the warmer summer, you can put your rex outside. This gives them some “real” exposure to the environment, which can only be good for hardening them off! Ensure that the temperature remains above 60F at all times.

You can leave it outside overnight if the temperature is stable.

Bring them back indoors when temperatures start to hover around 60F at night or predicated cooler weather. Avoid putting it outside when it’s too hot, this can burn the plant. The low-temperature tolerance is 60F.

The high tolerance is 80F. Keep it between those two and you’re good to go.

Humidity

Keep the humidity at 50% or higher. If you notice that the leaves have yellow or brown edges, you need to humidify the environment.

You can raise it by placing your plant in the kitchen or bathroom. Or you can just put a saucer of water nearby. This should be enough to raise the humidity.

Never mist your plants directly. It can lead to mildew.

Watering

Water can help lower the temperature and increase the humidity, other than being a necessary ingredient for all plants.

Rex begonias need consistent moisture.

Water regularly, but don’t overwater. The soil should be slightly, but evenly moist. Let it dry before watering again. Don’t let it go dry or it’ll wither.

But never over water. If you notice root rot or yellow foliage, this is a sign of overwatering. This is why soil must be well-draining. Water evenly and deeply.

Never water the leaves. Only the base. Use a watering can to do it. The top 1-2” of soil should be moist, but never wet. Use a moisture meter for accuracy.

Use filtered water to avoid salt deposits or if you have hard water. Place a large saucer under the pot to help collect runoff. It also keeps the humidity up.

Plant food

Provide a balanced plant liquid fertilizer.

Use a 10-10-10 NPK ratio. Rex begonias will benefit from plant food during the spring to summer when it’s growing.

The plant should be watered before fertilizing. Avoid watering post-fertilizing because you may wash it off.

Stop fertilizing in the winter because it’ll go dormant. Use fertilizer made for houseplants only.

Growing outside

Rex begonias can be grown outside as a herbaceous perennial if you’re in USDA hardiness zones 10-12.

If you’re not in this tight zone, you should only plant it inside as a houseplant.

If planting outside, the conditions need to be right. The temperature should be stable with enough spacing.

Growing in containers

You can easily grow rex begonia in a container. These plants are rhizomatous, which means you can use a shallow container with good drainage.

The shallow container lets the soil drain water quickly. The pot should be larger than the root ball.

It does like to be rootbound, but when they start spilling over, it’s time to replant into a larger container.

Pruning

Pruning regularly is good for rex begonia because it keeps them tidy, colorful, and big. Removing leaves that are spent from the plant or debris from the soil is good practice.

This helps keep pests or pathogens off your plant. If you’re putting it outside in the warmer months, this is especially important because bugs are active during this time.

Check for pests before you bring them back inside.

Pruning is only necessary if you’re growing upright varieties of rex begonia.

Cut off the stems at the crown when the leaves are showing brown tips. Prune a few stems from the leaves to help them tidy. The tips do NOT need to be pinched. If you do, it’ll encourage branching.

Repotting

You’ll regularly want to check the rhizomes on the edges of the pot.

If the rhizomes are too wide, snip some of the rotted sections so you can propagate more plants. See the rhizome propagation section above.

Repotting will help keep the plant growing if the roots are too close together. They need to be swapped to a larger pot as they get bigger.

They’ll benefit especially when the stems are so close to the edges of the plant. This can cause the water drainage to be blocked. Choose a pot that’s 1-2 sizes bigger than the previous one.

Overwintering

Wintering Rex begonias is easy. Just bring them indoors.

Provide adequate humidity by using a container of water or putting it near a moist area. Avoid placing plants near drafts or direct sunlight. Stop fertilizing. Reduce watering.

Pests

There are quite a few pests that can get into your plant, especially during the summer months where there are a lot of them.

Calcium oxalates in the leaves and rhizomes generally repel wildlife like deer or rabbits, but they don’t do anything for common pests.

Here are some of the most common rex begonia bugs you’ll find:

Spider mites

Spider mites are tiny, microscopic bugs that pierce holes in the leaves to extract the precious water.

If there are too many of them, they can do serious damage to your plant. They’re tiny mites that feed on foliage.

They leave behind yellow dots on the surfaces. If you notice leaves wilting or dropping, it can be spider mites.

Use insecticidal soap to get rid of them. Be sure that there is enough humidity.

Mealybugs

These bugs will leave behind honeydew that turns into a sooty black mold.

If you see twisted leaves, look for eggs or visible adults. They can be removed with alcohol-dipped cotton buds. These guys will pierce the leaves of your plant, which can cause hydration problems.

Other pests include thrips, scale, snails, etc. Your basic garden pests. Reduce watering, clip spent leaves, and regularly prune your plant to help keep bugs off.

Diseases

There are a few common issues that rex begonias can get.

But if you keep humidity about 50% with well-draining soil, you should be good. Make sure there’s no water blockage, as this is a common way these plants get sick. Here are some common pathogens and how to get rid of them:

Bacterial leaf spot

This leaf spot creates lesions that look like they’re soaked with water.

The leaves will drop, but because the bacteria is inside the leaves, the dropped ones are dangerous. The bacterium can move inside the plant.

It’s especially common when temperatures are sustained over 80F. Be sure to avoid watering the leaves when you water. Ensure that the soil drains well. Keep humidity stable.

If you see leaf spot damage, you may need to dump the plant and then sanitize everything. Use a fungicide if you want to try to get rid of it. It’s much easier to start from a new plant though. So it’s up to you.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is very common among house plants such as calla lilies or butterwort. These fungi thrive in humid conditions, which is why you need to keep temperatures/humidity stable. Use a cotton bud soaked in alcohol to wipe the leaves.

Root rot

Root rot is another common pathogen that’s caused by roots standing in stagnant water.

If the soil poorly drains, it’s a contributing factor to root rot. It’s drowning the root system. This is why you never overwater.

This is why you use well-draining soil. Do you see a pattern yet?

Avoid overwatering. If the soil is soggy or the leaves are turning pale, it can be a sign that root rot is taking place.

Wilting foliage is another symptom. A smelly odor is another sign. Isolate rhizomes and remove damaged roots. If you plan to replant, sterilize everything first.

Other issues you may come across include leaf spot, botrytis, southern blight, crown rot, anthracnose, cerscopora, and milew.

Companion plants

There are plenty of companions to pair rex begonia with, but you should never put them in the same pot!

They’ll compete for nutrients in the soil, so be sure to keep them separate.

Pair them with other large, single-shade leaves like pothos or silver swords. Boston ferns, parlor palms, are also excellent choices.

Some other choices include the following:

• Coleus
• Impatiens
• Black Mondo Grass
• Torenia
• Boston Fern
• Silver Nickel Vine
• Caladium
• Persian Shields
• Fiber Optic Grass
• ‘Brigadoon’ St. John’s wort
• ‘Persian Chocolate’ moneywort
• Yellow corydalis

Don’t plant with

You can pretty much pair your rex begonia with anything. Just don’t put them in the same pot. If you’re growing it outside, provide plenty of space between the begonia and other plants.

Best uses

Rex begonia can be used as a decorative piece. They’re commonly placed on windowsills, patios, or decks.

They can be used throughout the season in the summer, then again in the winter indoors.

They can be used in hanging baskets or even in the bathroom! These guys can be put anywhere that needs a bit of color.

Double that for bathrooms or rooms with high humidity. If you need to add a splash of color, rex begonia has your back.

While they can be stubborn, they just need the RIGHT degree of TLC.

Enjoy your rex begonia

Now that you know the basics of how to grow and care for rex begonia, go for it! These plants are rewarding, even if they’re slightly temperamental with their temperature requirements.

They can be presented on your porch for a nice splash of color. Or just put on your coffee table for a conversation piece.

How do you plan to use yours?

Further reading

Check out these other references you may find useful:

• Rex Begonia – UFL
• Rex Begonia | Home and Garden Education Center – UOC

The post How to Grow Rex Begonia (Easy Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

This blooming perennial grows from rhizomes, which makes it extremely easy to grow.

It’s commonly used for container planting, borders, or indoor houseplants!

Gardeners often grow calla lilies because of their gorgeous color availability.

Let’s dive in and learn how to grow and care for callas.

Quick care guide: Calla lilies

Toxicity warning

Calla lilies are known to contain calcium oxalate, which can cause burning or swelling when consumed.

Never handle it without protection and always wash your hands thoroughly after contact (or any other body part that touches it).

Keep pets and people away from calla lilies to prevent adverse reactions.

Types of calla lilies

There are many varieties of this plant.

Choose according to your hardiness zone, climate, and preferences.

Here are some of the most popular types of calla lilies:

• Zantedeschia aethiopica (Common white calla lily, 4 feet tall, blooms well)
• Edge of Night (30 inches tall, 3 black lines)
• Zantedeschia elliottiana (g=Golden calla, 3 feet,  yellow lily flowers)
• Purple Sensation (Purple lily, 18 inches tall, 5 inch spathes, pink-purple)
• Zantedeschia rehmannii (Red or pink calla lily, 1.5 feet tall, pink spathes 3 to 4 inches in diameter)
• Zantedeschia Picasso (Purple, pink, white, bi-colored flower)
• Captain Safari lily (24 inches tall, orange flowers, gold with arching blue foliage)

How to propagate calla lilies

In zones 8-11, callas are hardy so they can be divided and then replanted in the fall. The rhizomes can be cut in half and then planted as described later in this guide.

Starting from seed is also possible. Soak the seeds for 24 hours then sow them 0.5 inches deep in a damp seed starter.

Keep the ambient temperatures warm, at least above 68F.

Germination time varies depending on the temperature, but you should expect them to sprout in one week, but may take up to 3 months to do so. Seedlings will need at least 2 years to bloom.

When to plant

Calla lilies are usually planted in the spring after all frost has passed. The soil needs to be warm enough so the rhizome can sustain itself. If it’s still cold, the rhizome won’t root.

The ideal time to plant depends on whether you’re growing them in the north or south. In most zones (zone 8 or higher), they’ll be hardy right away in the garden.

Plant 30 days before the last average frost. In lower zones, plant callas in the springtime after all frost has opposed.

Soil temperatures should be at least 65F or higher. If you have a short season, start the rhizomes in containers indoors first. Give them 30 days before you move them to the garden.

It’s possible to force calla hybrids for a winter bloom. Give them 3 months for them to flower. Grow them in a container, but plan ahead.

How to grow calla lilies

Calla lilies are extremely easy to grow. They’re a perfect beginner plant because they don’t require too much work to make them flourish.

These lilies only ask that you choose the right location when planting them so they get the proper sunlight requirements and the right soil type. Those are the two most important things to consider when planting calla lilies.

How to care for calla lilies

Place the rhizomes of Z. aethiopica 4 inches deep. Space them 12 inches apart. You can get away with half the spacing, but you may encourage competition between the plants.

For other hybrids, plant the rhizomes just 2 inches deep. Space 18 inches apart. The rhizome’s eyes should be facing towards the soil surface. Gently cover with loose, fertile soil.

Hardiness zone

Calla lilies do well in USDA hardiness zones 7-11. For warmer zones, you can keep them in partial shade with no mulch. For cooler zones, keep them in full sun with regular mulching during the wintertime.

This will help insulate the plant. Colorful callas will bloom in the late spring to early summer. Zones 8-11 can be grown without mulch. Zone 7 needs to be mulched.

When planted after the last spring frost, you can expect flowers in the summer.

Soil type

Calla lilies require well-draining, loose soil. The soil should always be damp. You should never let it completely dry out between watering. The callas will grow as border plants or in the eye of gardens up to 12 inches of water.

Soil pH

Callas will flourish in slightly acidic soils

For colorful hybrids, ensure that the soil is loose enough for the roots to expand and be fertile with nutrients.

They can also do well in full sun in northern zones, but the sun needs to be limited to morning and afternoon shade in southern zones. Keep their pH slightly acidic between 5.5-6.5.

Use soil amendments to lower the pH or raise it.

Plant depth

Plant calla lilies about 4 inches deep. They require more soil depth than other plants. This will help them root and protect the rhizome from sudden temperature changes.

The soil is insulated from temperature swings.

Spacing

Space each plant about 12 inches apart.

Don’t plant them too close or else they’ll compete for nutrients. You can put them closer if you want, but no less than 6” apart.

For hybrids, space them at least 18 inches apart. Give them adequate spacing or else they’ll grow smaller.

Watering

The area should be watered well. Calla lilies enjoy being moist, but you should never overwater. They hate wet feet. Use your finger to feel the top inch of soil. If it’s near dry, go ahead and water.

For hybrids, water them less than non-hybrid strains.

Callas enjoy damp to wet soil, such as those found at the edges of ponds. The soil should never be completely dry. Bright hybrids should be moist, but never soggy.

For container plants, allow the soil to slowly dry once the foliage dies back into dormancy. Use a soil moisture meter so you know when to water.

Fertilizing

Calla lilies will benefit from a monthly dose of liquid fertilizer during the growing season. Use half the dosage at first if you get any adverse reactions from your callas.

If they’re good, then use the full dosage. Only use fertilizer during the summertime. Taper off during the fall to the winter.

Calla lilies don’t actively produce flowers in the winter, so they don’t need plant food. Feed calla rhizomes with an inorganic bulb fertilizer with an NPK of 3-5-3. Use as directed.

Fertilizers should be scattered over the soil beneath the rhizomes when they’re planted. Later on, apply plant food to the surface in the fall when they’ve finished blooming.

Weeding

Keep weeds out of the same plant bed as your lilies. They’ll outcompete the callas for nutrients, which will lead to drooping or failed blooms.

You can use some mulch to help keep the weeds out. It also helps insulate the rhizome from temperature swings.

Sunlight

Calla lilies prefer to be planted in full sun for proper blooming.

If you’re in a warmer zone, you can plant in partial shade. This will prevent scorching. If you’re growing indoors, place them near a sunny window so they get the energy they need to produce those flowers.

Other things to note

As I mentioned earlier, calla lilies don’t need much care. This is why they’re a popular choice for those who want a gorgeous plant that’s easy to care for.

Other than regularly watering them when they go near dry and fertilize often.

Container growing

Calla lilies can be grown in containers easily. Hybrid callas fare well in planters. For container planting, choose hybrid varieties.

Place them outside in the summer and indoors in the winter. They can be spaced closer when potted in containers compared to garden planting. An 8 inch potter can hold 2-3 smaller callas or 1 larger one. A 12 inch pot can hold 3 larger rhizomes.

Cover with 2 inches of soil. Use fertilizer regularly. Container plants will need more water than plants sown in the soil. You can expect blooms for at least 45 days.

Winter dormancy

Calla lilies require a dormancy period in the winter to recharge. Think of it as a time for them to rest and regenerate for the next season.

If they don’t get time to rest, they may not produce the same volume of blooms next season. You can tell when they enter dormancy because they stop producing flowers.

Refrain from adding plant food or watering. The plant needs to die back during this time. It’s normal.

Don’t be scared. But there are some steps you need to take to protect your lily during the wintertime or else they’ll suffer.

Do NOT leave them outside in the cold during this time. For container grown calla lilies, cease watering then move the pot to a shaded place once the foliage has faded.

Continue watering within 3 months when temperatures get warm again. Plants will not bloom if they’re not given a period of dormancy.

How to winterize

Calla lilies will need to be dug up in the fall. The rhizomes should be removed from the soil through gentle uprooting after the first frost. Use a spade to dig it up, carefully.

Don’t cut the rhizome or the roots. Clean off any debris or soil that’s stuck to the rhizome. When you’ve removed the debris, store the calla lilies in some organic peat moss.

Keep them somewhere dry, cool, and dark. Keep them there throughout the cold season until warmer temperatures return in the spring.

You can keep them indoors. When the soil is warm again, bring them back outside in the spring. This is when you should propagate the calla lilies. Do it when they’re lifted or during the winter dormancy period.

If you live in a lower hardiness zone, you’ll need to keep their rhizomes dormant inside your house over the winter. Hybrids can’t stay outside during the winter.

They need to be brought inside. For Z. aethiopica, it doesn’t go dormant. So keep the entire plant inside as a houseplant during the winter time.

Hybrids

Bring calla lilies inside when the plant has died back on its own. Then dig up the rhizomes.

Bring the plant indoors before your first frost in the fall. Put it in a bright, cool location.

Temperatures should be between 55-65F for optimal production.

Non-hybrids

To protect them from cold damage, rhizomes need to be dug up and then stored in the winter. When the plant has died back, cut it off 2-3 inches from the soil.

Dig up the rhizomes. Clean off debris or dirt. Then put them in a dry, dark location for a couple weeks. Store them in a cardboard box with barely damp soil.

Use peat moss or vermiculite. Store at 60F. Check it a few times during the winter to ensure that it’s not too wet or else it can lead to shriveling.

Pruning

Callas can become leggy during the summertime, especially if grown in the shade. You’ll need to cut back the foliage in the fall if you plan to take it inside for dormancy.

For Z. aethiopica, prune it back completely. For hybrids, they don’t require pruning unless you’re removing damaged foliage. Deadhead the faded foliage to keep them blooming or when they go dormant.

Companion plants

Some common plants that can be paired with calla lilies include:

• Catmint
• Lavender
• Hostas
• Cosmos
• Geraniums
• Marigolds
• Creeping jennies
• Roses
• Zinnias
• Plantain lilies
• Dahlia
• Daylilies
• Crane’s bill
• Dianthus

There are tons of partner plants that go well with callas. Combine various colors that are complementary for a gorgeous color flow.

Don’t plant with

Calla lilies shouldn’t be planted with plants that have opposing requirements or within the same genus. They’ll compete for nutrients.

Pests

Calla lilies don’t have pest issues, but some rodents are known to chew on the plant. Squirrels, voles, or deer are known to be an issue pest.

But they can be fenced off from your callas to protect them.

Other than rodents, you may encounter caterpillars, scales, mealybugs, beetles, spider mites, and other common insects.

They can be ridden using an insecticide. Use as directed.

Diseases

Calla lilies are prone to Pythium rot, powdery mildew, southern blight, botrytis, rust, leaf spot, root rot, soft rot, rhizome rot, and other issues usually cause by high humidity.

It’s important to allow proper evaporation by regularly pruning. Use a well draining soil to help remove excess water.

Enjoy your calla lilies!

Calla lilies are one of the easiest perennials to care for if you have damp soil.

They go well with tons of other plants and pair well with shorter grasses. Perfect for borders or edges, these lilies stand out from the crowd.

What color do you plan to grow? Let me know in the comments!

The post How to Grow Calla Lilies (Beginner’s Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

Specifically, their honeydew secretions that they deposit during their infestation.

Since spider plants are so easily accessible for crawling insects, it’s no surprise that it’s prone to some common insects.

Sticky spider plant leaves are a telltale sign of scale.

These insects will infest the foliage and then deposit a white, sticky substance all over it. Scales are invisible to the naked eye because of their tiny size.

Insects that make spider plants sticky

The following bugs are known culprits of leaving sticky honeydew behind. See if you can ID the insect before taking action to stop them.

Scale

There are many different types of scale. But the signature sign of an infestation is the brown patches that are on the leaves of spider plants.

When they form their colonies, there’s a white cotton that’ll forms as well. These are extremely sticky to the touch.

You’ll often find other secondary bugs on there as well that are drawn to the sugary honeydew deposits left by the primary insects. Gross.

Mealybugs

Cottony white is usually due to mealybugs. Cottony brown is scale. Note the difference.

But it’s not just this that causes the sticky leaves on spider plants. It’s actually due to a substance called honeydew.

This is what the bugs leave behind and it turns dark over time. It’s a tarry substance that’s sweet, so it sticks to dirt and brings in ants or spider mites.

When you see a combo of insects on the leaves of your plant, it’s pretty disturbing.

So basically, the mealybugs or scale deposit the honeydew, which then brings in other secondary insects.

Other insects

Other insects include whiteflies, fungus gnats, aphids, and borers. The following techniques will help you get rid of them.

Note that the sticky leaves on your spider plant usually stem from scale or mealy bugs. Sap sucking insects generally don’t care about serious harm, but the ones that deposit sticky residue do.

It can stifle photosynthesis because it blocks your plant from getting sunlight through the foliage. That’s why you need to focus on them first.

They can also bore holes or chew leaves, resulting in jagged or yellowing leaves from the damage.

A lot of insects are attracted to the warm soil and humid conditions of spider plants.

Get rid of sticky leaves on spider plant

To get rid of the sticky leaves on your spider plant, you’ll need to focus on the insects.

Once the bugs are gone, the stickiness will be gone. Start with the following:

Alcohol

Get a cotton swab and soak it in some rubbing alcohol. Then slowly swab the leaves with it. This will kill the insect nests without harming your spider plant.

This will slowly get rid of the insects that cause sticky leaves. You may want to use a scraper tool to fully scrape off the remaining stickiness.

Do it gently and stop if you notice that your plant leaves are changing colors. Colonies will often be gone quickly if you stick to a schedule.

Manual removal

When it’s time to get to work, put on some gloves because we’re going old school. Get a small bowl of soapy water. Then place it near the plant.

Gently comb through your plant. Remove any sticky leaves you can find by pruning them off and then dropping them into the solution.

If you see any cottony substances, prune the entire leaf off. Bugs should be picked off and dunked.

This is a lot of work and very time-consuming, but if you do it daily, you’ll greatly diminish their population. Be careful when digging through the leaves. You may encounter other pests that can bite.

Sticky tape

You can place some sticky tape around the stem of the plant to prevent bugs from crawling up to the leaves. This obviously only works for crawling insects. But it’s easy to do.

Diatomaceous earth

Sprinkle some food-grade DE on the soil and the rim of the planter. Bugs with hard shells will be forced to walk over it, which will pierce their shell.

They’ll get dry over time from the micro incisions into their exoskeleton from the DE crystals. You only need a little bit in the soil and on the perimeter of the spider plant.

Don’t overdo it because it can harm your soil quality. DE is available as a food supplement. This is the one you want. Don’t get the pool grade one.

Neem oil

Neem oil is an essential oil concentrate that you can use to spray on your spider plant leaves.

Cover the entire plant, but wash off any excess oil that’s remaining on it. Apply in the early evening- never during peak hours. It’ll burn your plant because it builds a thin coat over the leaves.

It can lead to overheating. Use it once a week as directed. It’ll kill the insects and has a residual effect so it keeps them off. Be sure you get the bottom of the leaves too because this is where ladybugs nest.

Vinegar

Mix equal parts water and vinegar for a powerful, natural insecticide.

Spray it directly onto the sticky leaves to kill the eggs and bugs. Do it daily until the bugs are gone.

Stop if your plant reacts to it or dilute the mixture. This will kill bugs upon contact with pests.

Repot

Sometimes the insects will deposit eggs in the soil column. This makes it extremely difficult to get rid of them because they’re hiding under the substrate.

In this case, you need to repot the soil with fresh potting mix. Sterilize or switch the old planter.

Eggs can stick to the container sides as well. You can dip your spider plant roots to kill the bugs or eggs hiding in the roots before you replant with fresh soil.

Be careful you don’t cross-contaminate the old infested soil with the new soil because that’s going to ruin the entire point of it. If the eggs or larvae get into the fresh soil, then they’ll infest it too. So be as careful as possible.

Insecticidal soap

When it’s time to bring out the insecticides, be careful. Make sure that the soap is made for the insect on your spider plant.

This is exactly why you need to properly identify what’s eating your spider plant before you trigger happy spraying poison all over it.

Find an insecticide that’s organic or natural if possible. Use as directed. Only do this if everything else has failed you.

No more sticky leaves

Spider plants are pretty hardy to insects in general, but they may need your help once in a while. When you notice the fuzz on the leaves or the sticky honeydew, take action.

Use the methods outlined above to eliminate the insects so your spider plant can thrive. No more sticky leaves!

Spider plants will tolerate them for quite some time, but it’s waiting on you to babysit them for a bit until the infestation is gone.

The post Get Rid of Sticky Residue on Spider Plants (Save Them!) appeared first on Gardenisms.

And for good reason.

They’re gorgeous! These shrubs are huge and wide with plenty of blossoms, thus making them an excellent plant for void fill or just to really give your garden some colors. They can be blue, orange, pink, purple, or even lavender.

They do take quite some time to reach full size, so you may want to start with a transplant from your greenery if you’re impatient.

But even starting from seed is very rewarding as you can shape the plant however you want. Compact? Freeform? Your choice!

Let’s learn about how to grow and care for rhododendrons. I hope this care sheet helps you get a good grasp of the shrub.

Quick care guide: Rhododendrons

What’s a rhododendron?

It’s a woody flowering shrub that’s known for its large, pink blooms. These shrubs are extremely popular for their ease of care. Being part of the Ericaceae family, they’re similar to their cousins like the fern or huckleberry.

They require little work but reward you with plenty of those gorgeous purple-pink flowers. They come in a variety of sizes, colors, and shapes. They can even be grown in part shade.

With so many variants, they can handle a variety of climates, soil types, and even garden sizes. They can even be planted in containers!

Versatile. Easy to care for. And gorgeous.

Types of rhododendrons cultivars

There are so many different types of rhodies that you’ll be hard-pressed to find the “perfect” strain- if that even exists!

There’s no single one that works for everyone. Each cultivar has its pros/cons. Some are suitable for larger environments that provide plenty of plant cover. There are over 1000 species.

Others are compact that are suitable for container growing. It’s up to you to find what suits your needs. There’s literally a strain for every garden.

If you’re having trouble deciding on which type of rhododendron to get, think about where you’re planting it, the local temperature, your time/energy commitments, and the amount of space you have.

Here are some popular cultivars to get you started:

• America (full sun, 6 feet tall and wide, purple flowers)
• Elvira (bright red flowers)
• Ramapo (compact, woody, purple)
• Rosy Lights (pink, compact, small, cold hardy)
• Augfast (dwarf, compact, blue flowers, 3 feet tall, early bloomer)
• Top Banana (bright red buds)
• Janet Blair (pink flowers, 6 feet tall, drought hardy)
• Catawba (broadleaf, dark green foliage)
• Nancy Evans (4 feet tall, lots of flowers, yellow/pink hybrid flowers)
• Trinidad (cream and red edges)
• Nova Zembla (tolerant of temperature highs/lows, 5 feet height, lots of blossoms, orangish flowers)

How to propagate

Thankfully, Rhododendron is super easy to grow from seed, layering, or just buying one from the nursery.

This plant readily germinates from seed if you enjoy starting from scratch. Read over each propagation method and see which one suits your style.

If you want the most rewarding way, seed sowing is the only way to go. If you want a head start to enjoy the blooms, then go for a nursery transplant instead.

Starting from seed

This is the easiest way to get started.

Get a packet of rhododendron seeds online or at your local garden center. You need to make sure that you get the right species because hybrids can’t be grown from seed. So make sure that it’s not a hybrid rhododendron. Named cultivars also can’t be sown from seed.

The ideal time to sow is in January or February. They can get a head start for the season if there’s sufficient heat. Use a plant heat mat or a grow light to keep them warm. Start with 5” planters.

Get biodegradable ones if you want to save yourself from more work later on. Plastic holds heat poorly compared to terra cotta or organic materials. Just FYI.

Fill it with any generic potting mix. Use a water-retaining medium. If you want to get fancy, you can, but it’s not necessary because this is just the germination pot. You’ll be replanting your seedlings later on into the soil.

Each 5” pot can hold 2-3 seeds. Place them on the surface, but don’t cover them.

Water well using a spray bottle. It’s important to use distilled water only. Soak the water with continuous spraying until it’s nice and moist. The seeds will soak into the soil over time. There’s no need to pat them down.

At this point, just keep the soil moist. Avoid letting it dry out at any point or else you’ll kill the seeds. Temperatures that are high will halt germination. And it won’t germinate either.

Spray 2-3 times daily to keep it moist. You can use a humidity dome (or a plastic cover) to help trap the moisture so you don’t have to water as often.

Place the pots under grow lights or near a sunny window. They need at least 8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

The seeds will germinate in about 10-21 days. Germination time will vary. It depends on the local climate, temperature, watering conditions, sunlight, and cultivar too.

So be patient if you don’t see seedlings in 10 days.

After they germinate, continue the same care regimen. In 8 weeks or so, you should have at least 2 pairs of true leaves. When this happens, it’s time to harden them off by exposing them to the outside elements.

Only do this when the last frost has passed. If not, keep them indoors. Continue to keep them moist, and warm.

When the temperature remains around above 50F or so, it’s time to bring them out to their new home in your garden!

Bring them to your yard for a few hours daily. Put them in the sun for about 6-8 hours. This will get them used to the outside. Do this for 2 weeks or so.

Start with just minimal sunlight exposure. Then increase by an hour every day. Keep the soil moist at all times until you complete the transition.

They’re now ready to go into the yard! Uproot them gently and then sow them into the soil. Be sure to use high-quality soil that’s nutrient dense with moisture-retaining properties.

Starting from cuttings

Propagating from cuttings is the quickest way to get started if you want to grow hybrid rhododendrons. Start in the late summer or fall.

The cuttings should be taken at the heel in the early morning only. Use new cuttings that are still pliable. They should not be hardened. The softwood is less likely to rot after you cut them. If you cut the harder woods, they’ll be prone to rotting. They don’t root well either. So it’s a double negative.

The key to finding the right stem is that it should be younger and has multiple leaves. If it has flowers, that’s fine. Take the cut. Remove any flower buds or spent ones.

Keep only the top few leaves on the stem. Use a sharp, sterilized knife to cut the outer green shell on the bottom 0.5” of the stem. This will expose the interior so it’ll root easier. Use a rooting powder or gel if you wish.

Next, fill a pot with a 50/50 mix of vermiculite or perlite with peat moss to help it root. Peat moss is usually discouraged, but rhododendrons crave it for rooting. Water it until it’s wet. Place the cutting 0.5” deep into the soil and then cover it with a humidity dome.

Place the pot on a heat mat to keep it warm. Continue to keep it moist, but never wet. Spray it daily. Never let it go dry. Keep the temperature within 50-60F. New roots will form in about 6-8 weeks.

You can check to see if your stem has rooted by gently pulling on the stem. If it doesn’t give, then it’s done. If it comes out, check for rot before you reinsert it. Continue to wait for another week.

When it’s rooted, you can move it to your garden!

By layering

Layering is another method that works really well with rhododendrons. In the early fall or late summer, find a low-growing branch and use a sturdy wire to pin it to the soil. You’ll have to bend it to get it to sit.

The point is to keep it pinned into the soil using whatever you have. Keep the bent branch in the soil. Cut off any leaves in the section that’s pinned.

Water it and feed it as you do for the entirety of the plant. Layering basically makes the bent part grow into its own plant. It takes a long time for it to finally root (as in years). So if you want to do this, you’ll need patience. It also only works if you already have a rhododendron plant going in your garden

The roots can be checked the same way as checking a cutting. Give a tug to see if it gives. If not, it’s rooted. If it does, pin it back and let it be.

Once the roots have formed, clip the branch closest to the bush. Dig up the new plant. Clip it on both sides using pruners to release it. Then plant it on its own. It’ll need about 5” of depth, with 10” around. Plant it like a regular transplant.

By transplant

This is the prefeed method if you want to enjoy those blooms quicker. Just buy a good shrub from your local garden center then transplant it into your garden. Try to plant at the same depth as the pot it came in. Provide ample space around it and water it generously.

Use compost to help keep the soil well draining. Try to provide 5 times the width of the container.

The depth can be up to twice the original container depth. But don’t plant too deep because this can harm your shrub.

Don’t remove any of the debris that’s stuck on the roots either. They have beneficial bacteria. You can prune after you’ve planted and given it a few days to harden off.

How to grow

Rhododendrons are extremely easy to grow and tolerate a variety of conditions- everything from shade to full sun. I’ll try to get you a summary of the ideal conditions so you can get the most out of your plant.

They grow bigger with more blossoms and numerous flowers if they’re grown correctly. But it also depends on the cultivar type.

The following sections contain tips to maximize the flowers per annum.

Hardiness zone

This woody shrub is perfect for USDA hardiness zones 4-10. But even if you’re slightly outside the suggested hardiness zone range, you should be fine if you opt for a cultivar that’s less sensitive to warm or cooler temperatures.

You can also plant in shadier spots if your zone is too warm. Or you can use mulch or plant protection if it’s too cold.

Soil

Rhododendrons prefer soil that’s well-draining, moisture-retaining, and with plenty of nutrition.

They love humus, so consider supplementing some into your substrate. The soil can be clay, sandy, or loamy. They’re not picky as much as the pH.

Soil pH

This plant is quite picky when it comes to pH. Rhododendrons prefer acidic soil with pH values between 4-6. If the soil isn’t acidic, it will produce poor blossoms.

The soil can be amended with pH down to bring it to a more favorable range. The soil can be mixed with pine bark to help drop the pH. Or you can grow in a pot with primed soil.

Some compact hybrids can be grown in containers with the right soil. Use ericaceous soil/fertilizer.

The majority of gardeners will use sulfur-based soil supplements to help lower pH. Use a soil meter to test the acidity. It should be acidic, but never basic.

You’ll need to adjust the soil levels to get the most out of your plant. Results will vary depending on the soil type. Avoid using aluminum sulfate because it’s based on sodium, which doesn’t take well to rhododendrons. They hate salt in the soil.

Depth

For seeds, sow at the surface. For transplants, use the same depth as the original planter.

Spacing

Space each plant at least 5 feet apart. Bigger cultivars should be spaced up to 10 feet apart to reduce them fighting over nutrients. These guys can grow upwards of 30 feet tall and 30 feet wide. So give adequate space.

Temperature

Temperatures between 50-70F are a good range. When temperatures drop to the 40s, you’ll notice that the foliage will begin to droop.

They won’t curl until the temperatures drop to 32F. But even then, your shrub will be okay. They can handle temperatures as low as 10F as long as it’s not for extended periods.

On the other end, they can tolerate heat too. Temps as high as 90F will be fine. Some cultivars can tolerate heat, but most will prefer just warm and humid environments. 

Humidity

These shrubs don’t like wet feet. If the water pools and doesn’t drain, it can cause rot issues.

You should keep humidity moderate to high, but with plenty of space for water to evaporate.

This can be achieved by regularly pruning dense foliage, using a good-quality substrate, and not overwatering.

Watering

These plants can handle a lot of water, but even then, you shouldn’t go crazy with them. It’s possible to overwater rhodies. If you do it often, it can severely damage your plant.

But if you don’t want enough, the same goes both ways.

So find the happy medium and go for that. Use a soil moisture meter if you don’t know how much to water. You’ll want to keep it moist at all times, but never wet or fully dried out. If the soil doesn’t drain well, it can also lead to pooling water at the base.

Overall, rhodies need a lot more water than your typical garden plant. They’re native to the northwest, which rains a lot. These plants will need plenty of water when young.

Established plants will need less. So you can taper off as needed. Signs of not enough water are obviously no blossoms. If you don’t see buds forming on the leaves, browning leaves, or curled leaves, your shrub needs water.

During the spring and summer, never let the top 1” of soil get dry.

If the fall, start reducing the water volume. This will get it ready for the winter. Water less during this time. The soil should be moist before the cold season to help protect the roots.

This is the only time you can let the soil get dry. Then soak it up! This will prepare it for the first freeze within the next day or so. It needs that water to help protect the roots from the cold. Easy enough.

Fertilizing

Rhododendron requires a good amount of plant food to help encourage the strong growth of the branches and produce those pretty flowers.

Ideally, you should fertilize in May and stop in July. If you fertilize too late in the season, your Rhodie will produce new branches which will be harmed by the cold weather. Therefore, you only want it to feed during the spring or summer.

The fertilizer should be diluted and acidic. Look for an NPK of 14-7-7 or something high in nitrogen. It needs N to produce leaves. Work it gently into the base, but don’t go into the root system. It can build up and cause damage.

The soil around the plant should be replaced regularly and weeded too. pH fluctuations will cause the soil to become alkaline over time too. You’ll have to apply soil amendments to keep it slightly acidic. A soil test kit can solve all those problems.

Sunlight

If it’s too shady, your rhododendron will produce buds but they won’t break. This means no flowers.

You’ll need full sun for at least 8 hours daily to get those precious blossoms. If it’s hot in the summer, protection from that scorching is necessary.

Ideally, they should be placed somewhere with early morning sun, followed by afternoon shade. You can use filtered or dappled light for the afternoon by using artificial shade.

While they can grow in the shade, you’ll need full sun to get the blooms. If you’re in a warmer zone, you can plant it in partial shade or grow a cultivar that’s more drought-tolerant.

Wind

Rhododendrons are prone to toppling over from the wind.

They can also get severely damaged by strong gusts. They should be on the eastern side of the oaks or pines. This gets them protection from winds plus they get that morning sun with dappled shade, followed by the evening sun.

That’s the perfect combo to get them producing their signature blossoms. This plant prefers sloped surfaces because the water drains well and they get some wind protection.

Too much wind can break flowers, and buds, and even topple them. Leaf burn is also common from the wind.

Pruning

Rhododendrons require very little pruning. In fact, deadheading is completely optional.

If you’ve cared for other plants like hollyhock or oleander that require deadheading, you’ll be glad to know that you don’t do it for your shrub. Your plant will blossom and bloom without pruning.

If you want to prune, use sterilized pruners. Some people like to keep it shapely by pruning off stems. You can also remove spent flowers or branches that are damaged.

Remove the spent flowers in the summertime. There’s no reason to keep them on your plant because they just waste energy and attract pests. It’ll also help encourage larger blooms next season. Stop pruning in August onwards.

Pruning to keep it compact is key to making them look good. If you want, you can keep them tidy by doing a hard prune. Cut them back.

They won’t get harmed by it. It may even encourage more flowers. Rough-barked can handle more pruning than smooth-barked. Even potted shrubs can be pruned with no damage.

Mulching 

Mulching should only be done sparingly.

The reason is that they have shallow roots that can be damaged easily.

Heavily mulch can be used on days with temperature dips, but avoid letting it touch the stem. If it does, it can lead to rot. Only use shredded pine bark, straw, or leaves from oak.

Try to only use pine or oak products. 2-3 inches of mulch and extend it beyond the drop line. This should be good enough to mulch your shrubs. It helps retain moisture and also protects the fragile roots from temperature swings.

Other commonly asked questions

The following sections cover common questions readers send to us regarding rhodie care. If you have questions of your own, please be sure to post them in the comments.

Overwintering

Rhodies should be pruned in the late spring after flowering. Remove crossing or crowded branches and cut spent flowers. Supplement with mulch or plant covers if you expect prolonged cold. Otherwise, no other care is required if you’re in the right hardiness zones.

Seed collecting

You can collect the seeds by picking the seed pods right before they split.

Only harvest from wind or manually pollinated shrubs. Store the seeds in a zipper bag away from heat. The seed pods must be harvested before they split. These are the pods that protrude from the center of the blossoms.

Pinch them off by grasping them and snapping them off. The seed capsules must be harvested after time has passed following fertilization. If they’re not fertilized, then they’re not to be harvested yet.

Leaf drop

Over time, the woody shrub drops its leaves. This is normal. Older leaves will be shed during the spring and summer. In the winter, cooler temperatures may also cause the leaves to curl or drop.

When it warms back up, your shrub will uncurl those leaves.

If the temperatures are too frigid, then yes, you can expect the leaves to fall. They can handle temperatures as low as 20F. Around that point, the leaves will curl and then droop.

The shrub will be fine if the roots are protected. If it remains in the cold for an extended period, you’ll want to do more to shield it from the cold.

They say you can tell what temperature it is in your yard just by the leaf curl.

Yellow leaves aren’t a sign of temperature, but rather a lack of iron. Supplement with more fertilizer that has iron or just add some to the soil. This will help the leaves turn back to that lime green. It can also be a pH problem. Remember that they like acidic soils.

Buds not blooming?

Buds that form, but don’t bloom are usually due to some kind of watering problem. Shrubs that are under or over-watered will cause the buds to never bloom.

If they break or split but no flower comes out, check your watering regimen. Hot and cold fluctuations can also cause them to not bloom. Bark splitting is also a sign of temperature swings.

You can wrap the plant in burlap or mulch it to help keep it insulated from the temperature.

Can you grow rhodies indoors?

Rhodies are large shrubs that can’t be grown indoors. The only time they should be inside is during seed germination or during the winter (if potted). Otherwise, they need sunlight from your garden for 8 hours a day.

How about containers?

The compact varieties of rhododendrons can be planted in pots. The pot should be large enough to accommodate the roots. Thankfully the roots are quite shallow. The only problem is drainage.

You must use well-draining soil with multiple drainage holes in the pot. The pot should be large enough so that it does get rootbound. Otherwise, care is pretty much the same.

Note that potted plants require more frequent watering compared to soil-sown plants.

Companion plants

Rhodes can be paired with many different shrubs. Some of the most popular companion plants include the following:

• Mountain Laurel
• Japanese andromeda
• Astilbe
• Kalmia
• Pierris
• Viburnum
• Mahonia
• Ginkgo biloba
• Rhody Nyssa
• Alliums
• Blueberries
• Heathers
• Pines
• Oaks
• Wildflowers
• Hostas
• Conifers
• Holly
• Berberis koreana
• Pussy willows
• Bleeding hearts
• Clethra alnifolia
• Berberis thunbergii

Find shrubs that do well in light soil with acidic pH. Evergreen perennials that require full sun exposure will generally be suitable plantmates.

Don’t plant with

There are few plants you want to avoid planting with rhodies, such as walnut or other shrubs that aren’t good at nutrient absorption.

The reason is because rhodies are good at taking up all the nutrition in the soil which can outcompete other nearby shrubs or plants. The leaves also take a long time to break down too. So this can cover up nearby plants which blocks energy production.

Pests

These shrubs are pretty hardy against bugs and don’t suffer as much as their cousins (roses), but there are still a few bugs that you’ll need to watch out for.

Here’s a short list of common insects that you’ll find on rhododendrons:

• Rhododendron Borers
• Lace bugs
• Weevils (multiple types)
• Spider mites
• Sawflies
• Caterpillars
• Bark scale
• Aphids
• Worms

The majority of insects are caused by overwatering or overfeeding. You can control most of them by manual removal, organic insecticides, or using beneficial nematodes. Rodents, deer, or other creatures have been spotted nibbling too.

But established plants are resilient to pests.

Rhodies are very resilient towards pests, so you’ll have time to see what works for you. I suggest starting with manual removal as this can damage their numbers by a huge margin. Then move to insecticides if necessary.

Diseases

There are also a handful of issues you should be careful of that can infest your shrub:

Leaf spot, bud blast, root rot, Botrytis, phomopsis dieback, phytophthora dieback, petal blight, powdery mildew, etc. These are common but can be treated with regular pruning, removing of infested leaves or branches, and reducing watering.

You may need to use a copper fungicide to help eliminate rot problems.

Usage scenarios

These shrubs are excellent for plant cover with their huge, voluminous blooms. Use these shrubs to build a privacy wall, foundation plant, or plant color. They can also provide shade for shorter plants. Use them for plant borders, pots, etc.

They’re simple to grow and will produce flowers every season. If you want a plant that’ll cover the sides of your garden or void fill, this is it. They offer plenty of coverage with some cultivars going over 40′. That’s a wall of flowers indeed.

Further reading/references

Check out these resources for more info:

• Rhododendron – Home & Garden Information Center
• Rhododendron – Reddit
• Rhododendron – Wikipedia

Enjoy your rhodie

Rhododendrons are versatile shrubs that are excellent for newbies.

These colorful, large shrubs can be used for a variety of purposes. With their ease of care and amazing flowers, it’s no wonder why they’re favored amongst those in the hobby.

How will you use your shrub? Post your thoughts!

The post How to Grow Rhododendrons (Beginner’s Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

Introducing Spicy Globe Basil!

This herb can be both a decorative ornamental piece, or it can be used in salads, soups, pesto, and more.

It’s a versatile, easy to grow basil variety that’s perfect for beginner gardeners.

It can even be grown as a perennial, unlike some other basil strains. It’s similar to sweet basil, but grows in a bushy, compact plant.

Let’s learn about how to grow and care for Spicy Globe!

Quick care guide: Spicy Globe Basil

What’s spicy globe basil?

Spicy globe basil is a little different from traditional basil because of its pungent scent and spicy flavor. It also grows like a spherical globe, rather than the fanned-out leaves like regular basil.

You may even confuse it with cilantro like I always do.

It’s considered to be an annual ornamental. Some people grow it just for a cute little plant they can put as a decorative piece. If you don’t want to eat it, it still makes an excellent void fill plant.

You can even trim it to shape it as a hedge.

Whether you want to get an easy addition to your herb garden or some ornamental greens this is it. it’s edible, functional, and takes care of itself.

Spicy globe is a dwarf basil that can be grown anywhere- outside or indoors. In the dirt or pots. It’s perfect for beginners.

Is it spicy?

Spicy Globe is a spicier variety than other basil varieties. Commonly called Ocimum basilicum “Spicy Globe,” it’s different from boxwood or Genovese basil.

So if you plan to substitute it for Italian large leaves, you can use were leaves for a stronger taste. It should be used fresh. It has a bit of heat compared to Genovese basil or Italian large leaf basil. It also has a bit of zest over your traditional sweet basil.

There are over 60 varieties of basil, but it often gets “out flavored” by its cousins. Sweet basil is probably the most popular IMO.

Why grow it?

Why not? It’s a nice spicy little herb you can easily add to your collection if you’re in zones 4-12. If you make soups, salads, or sauces, it’s a no-brainer.

Easy to grow with plenty of flavors, Spicy Globe is an essential herb right up there with the rest of them.

Is it easy to grow for beginners?

Yes, it’s extremely easy to care for and requires little work.

Other than regular watering, some fertilizer, and pruning, you can commit less than 10 minutes per week to get the tastiest basil possible.

If you already have an herb garden, spicy globe basil is an excellent addition to it. It pairs well with other herbs too.

How to propagate spicy globe basil

Basil is very easy to start from seed. If you’re in a rush you can buy a pre-grown transplant at your local garden center. If not, then getting a packet of globe basil seeds is the simplest (and most rewarding) method to plant.

You can often find a pack for less than $3. Organic is a few cents more, but well worth it.

But keep in mind that if you’re going the organic route, you need to use organic soil, fertilizer, and everything else so you don’t waste your money on the seed premium.

But anywho, let’s get this t