Growing artichokes from artichokes is quite simply, a rewarding experience.
Even though not many people may be fans of this thistle, C. carunculous can easily be grown at home for fans of it juicy, bitter flavor.
Find out how to grow it yourself.
Spoiler alert: If you want to propagate it using store bought produce, you’ll be limited to Jerusalem artichoke.
Other varieties, like globe artichoke (the one you see at supermarket), will require that you have a fully grown one to get cuttings from.
If you don’t have one, consider asking a friend or neighbor. Or buy one. Or buy a packet of seeds.
We’ll cover all the different methods to grow, care, and propagate artichoke so you can reap the fruits of your labor.
(Veggies, in this case!)
Guide Contents
Quick care guide: Artichokes
| Plant type | Perennial |
| Origin | Africa, Italy |
| Scientific name | Cynara cardunculus |
| Other names | French artichoke, globe artichoke, green artichoke |
| Soil type | Loamy, clay, sandy, generic, well-draining |
| Soil pH | 6.0-7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral) |
| Sunlight requirement | Full sun, partial sun in hot climates |
| Bloom season | Spring, summer |
| Colors | Green, yellow, purple |
| Max height | 5 feet |
| Max width | 6-8 feet |
| Low temperature | 20F |
| High temperature | 80F |
| Ideal temperature range | 60-70F |
| Humidity | Moderate |
| Watering requirements | Often during first year of growth, spring, and summer. Reduced after established. |
| Fertilizer requirements | High |
| Fertilizer NPK | 5-5-5 |
| Days until germination | 2-3 weeks |
| Days until bloom | 1-2 years |
| Speed of growth | Moderate |
| Hardiness zones | 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 |
| Plant depth | 0.5 inches (seed) |
| Plant spacing | 3-6 feet |
| Propagation | Seeds, division, root cuttings |
| Common pests | Aphids, thrips, leafminers, gastropods, plume moths, caterpillars, beetles, weevils |
| Common diseases | Root rot, powdery mildew, drawf virus, damping off, Botrytis |
| Indoor plant | No |
| Outdoor plant | Yes |
| Grown in container | Yes |
| Flowering plant | Yes |
| Beginner friendly | Yes |
| Care level | Medium |
| Uses | Culinary, stew, soup, decor, fresh cut, farming, produce |
Can you grow artichokes from scraps?
You can, depending on what you mean by “scraps.”
But that’s why you’re here, right?
You’ll be glad to know that you can definitely regrow artichokes from their cuttings in the roots.
They produce buds that stick out which can be cut off and then replanted to grow new artichoke. In other words, you can grow artichokes from artichokes.
But if you’re referring to buying one from the grocery store and then replacing it, it’s not gonna work unless you’re only planting Jerusalem artichokes.
They can be regrown. But traditional ones can’t. You’ll be using the crown to regrow it.
What is an artichoke crown?
The crown is where the offshoots, or buds, will stem out of.
You can regrow it by using these pups in a new plot of soil. When people say they use the crowns to propagate it, they’re referring to these parts of the plant.
The crown is usually at the soil level and can be seen if you dig around the part where the leaves part from the earth.
The crown is sensitive and can easily be destroyed by rot, so don’t poke at it unless you need to. The pups can be separated from the crown by using pruners.
Types of artichokes
Here are some of the most popular artichokes that you can grow at home:
- Green globe (the most popular cultivar sold in the grocery)
- Jerusalem (can be grown from the store)
- Siena
- Violetta
- Baby Anzio
- Castel
- Chianti
Note that artichokes come in multiple sizes, depending on when they’re harvested: baby, medium, and jumbo. Depending on the type you grow, you may be limited to just a few sizes.
Are they easy to grow? Good for beginners?
Artichoke does require a bit more care vs. other “set and forget” veggies like Mexican tarragon, bok choy, raddichio, eggplant, or even Japanese mitsuba. But once you get it going, it’s self-sustainable.
It does have some temperature requirements you need to watch out for (sensitive to cold- they’re not cold hardy). They also need plenty of water, so you’ll need to keep it consistent. Lastly, they’re heavy feeders.
A steady stream of fertilizer is necessary for the best yield. They’re’ not hard to grow, but they’re a bit more “hands-on” compared to other plants. Regardless, artichokes are a good project for beginners.
Can I plant artichokes from the grocery store?
Yes, you can.
But you’re limited to only Jerusalem artichokes, which will grow like weeds if you give them the love they need.
As for traditional artichokes, you can’t. You’ll need to either propagate them from seed, root cutting, or from the nursery as a transplanted plant.
If you want to start with Jerusalem artichokes, here are a few tips on selecting one for propagation:
- Choose artichokes that have no spots or wilting
- They should be firm, not soft
- There should be no nicks or cuts
- Look for smooth surfaces
- Choose a reputable grocery store
And here’s a video of Jerusalem artichokes being planted:
Jerusalem artichokes are also known as sunchokes, while the traditional ones you see in the store are called globe artichokes. These are two different types of classifications so you should know the differences.
About patented plants
Some artichokes may be patented by the grower. This means you can’t propagate it yourself without permission, and that’d be illegal.
If you see stickers on it, or the product label, you should avoid trying to grow it. Consult with the growers to confirm you’re not growing an illegal plant when in doubt.
How to grow an artichoke from an artichoke
So here’s the real meat of the guide. If you have a root cutting that’s fertile and not sterilized, you have everything you need.
Well, other than your favorite pair of garden gloves and a spade.
Whether you’re in San Diego or Dallas, there are ways to grow artichoke.
Let’s get started.
Get your starter artichoke offshoots
You can typically use any artichoke offshoot from an established plant.
If you already have an artichoke production garden going, you can harvest it from your current established plant.
This is good for people who live in zones that are suitable for artichoke because you can harvest it and collect it every season and increase your yield.
Established artichokes produce these offshoots that come up from under the soil. They’re also called “pups” or “cuttings” or “root divisions.”
Whatever you wanna call it, this is my favorite way of doing it because it gets you consistent results. Quickly.
The right time to harvest for propagation is when the established plant has been producing. Artichokes will generally produce a yield in their second year.
They rarely produce anything valuable in their first year of growing. If you have an artichoke plant that you’ve been tending for a few years now, it should be growing offshoots.
Before you do any cutting, make sure that you have adequate space and an area in your yard dedicated to your permanent home. You can read the later section for steps on setting up an artichoke garden.
Remove the offshoot (cutting)
When the offshoots are at least 8 inches long, they should be prepped for harvest. First, use a spade and gently dig up the soil around the area.
Use a sterilized pair of pruners (use rubbing alcohol) and cut it off cleanly. Don’t do this during the bright sunlight periods of the day. Wait for a day that has an overcast. The sunlight will burn the newly cut pups.
The best time to cut off the offshoot is during the winter period when the plant isn’t growing. This will avoid disturbing it in the spring or summer when it’s actively producing.
Be careful not to cut the roots of the offshoot, as these will be necessary to root it.
When people say they propagate artichoke by the crown or by cuttings, this usually means they use the offshoots.
Replant it
Now that you’ve separated the offshoot from the adult plant, you can replant it back to its home. Be careful not to damage the roots.
Pack the soil around the original plant carefully. Put it back to how it used to be with the same soil conditions and everything.
Clean it
The next step is to clean it. You don’t know what types of plant pests or microscopic viruses it harbors.
Take the artichoke and dunk it in a solution of vinegar and water in equal parts for a few minutes.
This will instantly kill the majority of pests that can be hiding in it. Since there are so many different crevices, they can be hiding anywhere. Remove all debris, dirt, labels, etc. Clean it as you’ll eat it!
Be careful not to damage the roots of it. If you cut off multiple offshoots, repeat the process for all of them. Let it dry before moving onto the next step.
Plant it
So now you should have a freshly cut offshoot artichoke. Find a good place to plant in your garden.
You can check out some of our tips in later sections on this page. But generally, you’ll want a fertile plot of soil
Each shoot should be planted at least 3 feet or more apart if you’re growing multiple artichokes. The soil should be organic if possible. The location should be sunny with plenty of photoperiods.
Water generously the first time, then water as you regularly should. The roots will establish themselves slowly over time. You can give your offshoot a gentle tug to see if it took root. If not, try again.
Note that artichokes need plenty of space to grow. So you should provide them with as much as possible if you want the best possible yield.
Congrats. You’ve successfully propagated artichoke using cuttings! That was easy. Don’t sweat it.
Growing from seed
If you prefer to propagate it from seed, that’s also a possibility with artichoke. You’re not limited to just using the root divisions (crowns) for propagation.
Seeds have always been an option, but it does take a lot more time and effort. But hey, some people enjoy it. It’s more rewarding, in my opinion.
Additionally, once you’ve propagated one from cuttings, it’s possible to collect the seeds from it.
Then you can grow from both seed and cuttings next season and try both. If you’re in the right zone, you can start sowing them outdoors directly into the garden. If not, start indoors as with most other plants.
Note that artichokes will take up to 180 days to fully become established, so you’re in this for the long haul.
Don’t expect instant fruiting as this plant will test your patience. If you’re in a warmer zone, it may be easier to just sow outdoors.
But for those with cold winters or limited periods of growing time, you should start indoors to protect it from destruction when the winter comes.
Here are some general guidelines on growing from seed:
Artichoke seeds will need to be cold stratified before you plant them. This is where they’re exposed to an artificial cold just like in nature when they’re dropped into the soil in the winter.
You can do this by taking them into a damp napkin and then wrapping them up with it. Then place the entire napkin into a plastic container.
This will stop them from drying out in your fridge. If they do, they might go sterile. Keep them there for about 2 weeks. Then you’re all set for the next step.
Start sowing them indoors about 2 months before the last frost in your zone. If you don’t know when this period is, look it up here.
Artichokes need good quality soil. You may be able to get away with cheap, generic brand soil.
But If you want the best possible yield with large, flavor-dense artichokes, use good quality soil. Opt for organic or natural soils.
Buy a seed starter mix and a growing kit. These are those trays that come with dozens of small compartments.
Place 2-3 seeds per compartment and fill with 0.5” of high quality, well-draining starter mix.
If you want to avoid transplant shock and you have a bit of a flexible budget for these guys, use a biodegradable set of pots.
They let you plant into the soil without having to dig them out. There are plenty of organic ones you can find on the market for a slightly more expensive price.
Note: Artichoke doesn’t germinate easily. Expect poor germ rates so plant extra seeds per compartment.
Water generously the first time, then reduce watering to only when moisture drops.
Use a spray bottle to mist them, but not soak them.
Keep the starter kit in your house near a sunny window with filtered sunlight. Don’t put it directly under the sunlight.
Cover it with a humidity dome to retain moisture and help germination.
The seeds will sprout in temperatures between 60-80F. Aim to keep it between these values for successful germination.
If temperatures are too cold, use a small heating pad or a heat lamp to keep them warm during the day.
For direct sowing, keep the temperatures around 70F or higher. You can use a soil meter to check the exact temperature of your soil. Avoid planting outdoors if your temperatures are unstable or dip below 20F. This will kill the seeds.
When they sprout, remove the humidity dome and continue watering as needed.
Artichoke seeds generally germinate within 21 days or so, depending on local conditions like temperature, water, light, etc.
As they sprout, continue to water them until they’re about 3 inches in height. Start thinning them and keeping the bigger plants in each compartment.
Snip them off with a sterile pair of scissors. Each pot or compartment should just have a single artichoke plant or else they’ll compete.
When two sets of true leaves have come about, it’s time to move them to your garden. An easy way to tell is to measure it. It should be at least 7 inches by this time or taller.
Choose a location in your garden after the last frost that’s bright and sunny. Keep away from drafts, poorly draining soil, windy places, or areas that get a lot of shade during peak hours. Artichoke is a full sun plant and this is necessary for the best yield.
You may end up with thin yield and leggy plants if you plant them somewhere that has partial sunlight.
If you’re directly sowing the seeds, allow 2-3 seeds per 0.5” depth every 5 feet in distance.
Some cultivars will take up to 8 feet of space per plant. So be sure to do some reading on your specific species before you plant.
For those in regions that receive strong afternoon sun, partial sunlight can be helpful to stop scorching.
Plant in organic well-draining soil. Each artichoke should be placed 3 feet apart to minimize competition between each plant. If you don’t know your soil conditions, use a soil meter to test them.
When transplanting artichoke, measure the top of the root ball to the garden soil’s level surface.
The top of it should align evenly with it. You can give it a firm press to level it properly. The soil surrounding it should be firm and rigid. Water it to loosen it so you can mold it to the shape of your root ball.
By transplant
Transplanting is as basic as it gets.
If you have a local nursery that sells artichoke plants, this is a proven way to get it going without having to cold stratify, germinate, and do all that other jazz on your own.
Sure, you pay a premium for it, but you also save time plus maximize your chances of success.
Note that many artichokes you buy from the garden center at your local hardware store won’t produce any veggies in the first year.
Artichokes generally produce only during the second year when the flowers come out.
Plus, they need to go through vernalization to produce flowers. This is when they require a period of cold exposure just like they do in the great outdoors.
Plant them to exposed temperatures between 30-50F for best results. They’ll slowly acclimate to it.
Watch out for pests and signs of plant damage. When they harden off, they’re vulnerable. After that, they should be OK. You can use a greenhouse if you have one to slowly harden them off.
Plant them in proper soil conditions. Each plant should be planted 5 feet apart and dug to a hole that’s just the same size as the original pot it came in. water generously the first time, then reduce as they become established over time.
The younger the plant, the more dangerous the temperature can be. Utilize cold frames or row covers to protect them from the winter. Use mulch around the base of the plant to help insulate it.
Warmer weather is definitely easier.
Basic artichoke care
After you’ve germinated or rooted your artichoke, you’ll need to care for it properly so you get the most yield out of your labor. Here are some tips for artichoke care.
Hardiness zones
Artichokes are vulnerable perennials that grow best in USDA hardiness zones 7-11.
They can, however, be grown outside of their hardiness zone provided that you give them the right environment for them to thrive. People have had success growing artichokes in greenhouses, kitchens, and even in their garages.
Even if you’re situated outside of zones 7-11, you can still grow them as an annual rather than a perennial.
This means you’ll need to plant them again every year, but at least you’ll know how to grow an artichoke from an artichoke so you can harvest them over and over to your desire.
Soil
The soil should be fertile, well-draining, and has a large plot size. Each plant will need 3-6 feet of space.
So be sure to accommodate for this because it can be difficult with a tiny garden. They’re wide-growing plants that will compete for soil if there are not enough nutrients to go around.
Additionally, artichokes will grow like weeds once they get going, so provide lots of space and use a solid barrier so they don’t get to other plants in your garden. Use organic or natural soil that receives full sun all afternoon.
They’re heavy feeders that prefer rich soils with compost or manure added to the top 10” of soil. Artichoke growing can be labor intensive if you’re scaling up, but if you’re just doing one or two, it’s quite passive.
Soil can be anything from clay, sand, or loamy soil. It just needs to be rich and drains well. That’s what you need to know.
If it doesn’t drain well, you can amend it with manure or compost to help improve drainage.
Try to get soil that doesn’t have too much salinity (salt). Although they can tolerate different soil types, they don’t like salt!
Soil pH
Aim for a pH between 6.0-7.5. They prefer slightly acidic to neutral soils.
Some types like alkaline soils. It all depends on what you’re growing.
But they’re pretty lenient on the pH.
Watering
Watering will vary depending on your local climate and the cultivar you’re growing. For drier locations, you can water daily during the summertime.
Avoid absolutely soaking the soil. But they do need plenty of water to thrive. Use a wand, not a hose.
Note that seedlings require more water than adults.
When the plant becomes established, you don’t need to go crazy with the watering schedule. You’ll get a feel for it. Then you’ll learn how much to give them each session.
Consistent watering is a must and this will determine the overall quality and quantity of your seasonal harvest at the end of the year.
Like most people say, the more tender the artichoke is, the higher quality of the yield is. The more water you put in is determined by the sunlight, temperature, and soil conditions.
Artichokes generally need watering 2-3 days per week. Aim for 2 inches of water per week. Use a water meter to check for precise measurements.
If you live in a hotter zone, increase the watering frequency. If it’s a hot day, increase the watering frequency. If it rained, decrease it. It’s very nuanced.
If they’re poorly hydrated, you can expect tough veggies. They may also develop a black part on the foliage, which is a sign of water issues.