(This is why it’s also known as “spotted touch-me-nots”.)

While that sounds cool and all, did you know that Impatiens capensis can provide amazing plant cover and takes care of itself once established? It doesn’t even need to be reseeded!

How’s that for easy TLC? You don’t even need a green thumb.

It’s a gorgeous, large annual that self-seeds and does very well in soggy, shady locations.

It’s called jewelweed because the leaves glisten in the sun when it’s grown under wet conditions. This wildflower is perfect for those looking for something easy to grow with minimal care.

It also brings in beneficial pollinators, which can help pollinate your other plants. Expect bees, butterflies, birds, and even deer!

Let’s learn about how to grow and care for jewelweed!

Quick care guide: Jewelweed

What’s jewelweed?

Jewelweed (Impatiens capensis) is a common wildflower in the home garden because of its colorful flowers. People love this plant. The flowers are a tie-dye mix of colors paired with dark green foliage that brings out the color.

The flower is commonly grown as a bedding annual. In the wild, you’ll find it along stream banks, bogs, or drains. The plants grow up to 5 feet in the wild and bloom from late spring to fall.

It’s commonly found in North America, growing along ditches, streams, wetlands, pond edges, creeks, bottomless soils, boggy environments, and other wet areas.

They can be orange or spotted yellow with rusty spots. The seed capsules will explode if touched, but they’re harmless. They get their name “touch me not” because of the “explosive” nature of the seed pods. Just watch your eyes!

Yellow jewelweed (Impatiens pallida) belongs to Impatiens capensis. It’s less common than the orange jewelweed. The yellow jewelweed blooms are yellow with brownish spots, while the orange jewelweed has smaller blooms with solid orange coloration.

Also known as “touch me nots” these plants are often confused with poisonous plants such as Swedish ivy, Virgnia creeper, or poison ivy. But the only reason they’re called that is that they’ll fling their seeds when disturbed.

Yes. Literally.

They make excellent border plants because of their ability to bring pollinators to the garden. Putting them on the outside of your garden’s perimeter helps bring in beneficial pollinators to the rest of the yard.

There are two primary species in the US. These wildflowers naturally grow in ditches, gullies, forests, or other areas of filtered light. They love shady areas with just minimal sunlight per day.

The popular one is the spotted orange jewelweed, Impatiens capensis. It loves water with rich soil that’s completely soaked. When was the last time you could plant something that doesn’t need well-draining soil?

Well, Impatiens capensis likes it!

Impatiens pallida is the second most popular impatiens in this category. This one is fully yellow and doesn’t like standing water.

Use jewelweed to fill shady or boggy spots where other plants don’t grow. Pond edges, lake edges, os teams are common locations.

There are over 1,000 listed species of impatiens. You’ve seen them in landscapes, both in the neighborhood and in public. For good reason.

They’re super easy to grow and require very little care once they’re established. Plus, they have a ton of color, so ROI for your efforts is extremely high with impatiens

Is it easy to grow?

For jewelweed, there are some small quirks that you’ll need to accommodate with.

It’s slightly more tedious to grow compared to other impatiens like Impatiens walleriana, but it’s still beginner friendly.

That’s what we’ll cover in this guide. Even if you’re completely new to impatiens, jewelweed can be an extremely rewarding wildflower plant to add to your garden. Pair it with California Poppies in the background for a real show.

Is jewelweed poisonous?

Jewelweed has been used as a natural remedy for soothing poison ivy rash. The sap from the leaves and stems has been used to clear up the effects of poison ivy.

However, there are no published reports assessing the safety or toxicity of using jewelweed. Jewelweed is confused as dangerous or poisonous since it’s often found with poison ivy or used to remedy its effects of it.

When in reality, it’s quite the opposite!

WebMD says jewelweed is “possibly safe” for most people when applied on the skin or taken orally.

Regardless, you must consult with your healthcare professional if you plan to use it.

What does jewelweed look like?

Jewelweed has its signature flower with a semi-bell-shaped bloom. It can be spotted orange with tints of yellow amongst dark green foliage.

They grow upwards of 5 feet tall, which is much taller than other impatiens that usually only reach a woeful 16 inches. Jewelweed will grow into an upright position with branched flowers.

The blooms are single blossoms, unlike their cousins which have double or even triple blossoms.

The trumped blooms have a curved shape. Yellow jewelweed may have white spots at the flower’s opening. Orange jewelweed orange spots.

Both species will self-seed whether pollinators are present or not.

When the flower pods rupture, they’ll disperse their seed which will get you even more jewelweed. The seeds are branching with thick stems and blue-green oval leaves. The leaves are partially fuzzy and toothed.

The flowers are cornucopia shaped which will produce seed pods that explode when touched.

While it’s exciting, the exploding seed capsules are harmless. The plant can help bring in animals or wildlife while discouraging weeds. The soil must be moist, shady, and well-draining.

They can grow up to 5 feet, but will generally only max out at 2-3 feet. If they grow close together, they can stack on each other and grow taller.

Two primary flowers bloom from summer (June) until fall. The timing is perfect for hummingbirds, which are its primary pollinators of it.

The conspicuous orange-yellow bloom is one flower. The other is a green blossom that doesn’t open and is self-pollinated.

Showy flowers are about 1-2 inches long with a funnel-shaped bloom. The seeds are consumed by many wildlife species.

How to propagate jewelweed

Jewelweed will propagate itself without human intervention.

It can reseed itself after it’s been planted and the seeds will give rise to additional plants (assuming the conditions are right).

But you need to start somewhere. And there are a few ways to do so. Let’s go over each of them.

Starting from seed

This is the most rewarding option to get started. Get some seeds from a reputable seller. Jewelweed seeds must remain moist, so you’ll likely need to visit a nursery to buy them.

Ordering online will result in dry seeds which aren’t viable. If you have a friend or neighbor that has jewelweed growing, you can collect seeds from them.

You’ll need some way to transport it, like a food container that traps humidity to prevent dry outs. It likes full or partial shade with organic soil that retains wetness.

It tolerates sunny locations where summers are cool. If the soil has no nutrients, use compost or manure first before planting.

The plant should be fully developed. There will be visible seed pods that sprout from summer to late fall. The seeds can be harvested by gently touching the pod, which will then force it to open and drop its seed.

Place your container right underneath the pod as you do this to collect them. Get what you need and seal it up. It’s back to your garden!

Once the seeds are collected, they need to be planted within a few hours. If they dry out, they won’t germinate. Seeds need light to germinate, so don’t cover them up.

They also should be thinned when they reach 7 inches or so. Clip out excess seedlings using sterilized pruners.

For cooler zones:

The seeds will need to be cold stratified before planting.

Get a plastic bag and then fill it with some light peat moss. Wet it down. Then put the seeds inside and seal it. Put the bag in your fridge for 6-8 weeks before the last frost date.

For warmer zones:

So you need to decide if you want to propagate them outside or inside. If you do it outside, it saves you a step later since you don’t need to move them out or harden them off.

If you start them indoors, the only reason should be because of the temperature. If the temps are good enough outdoors, then start outdoors!

Give the plot a nice do-over with a rake. This is necessary to stratify the seeds. Scatter planting works well. Just randomly scatter them in the plot to get that random, fullness when they sprout.

You can always thin them later if you want to keep them tidy. Cover with 0.25 inches of soil or just let them sit as long as rain or wind doesn’t blow them out.

Sow during the winter so they can stratify on their own. Jewelweed seeds won’t germinate without cold exposure.

If sowing indoors, use a seed starter tray and fill it with loamy, well-draining soil. You can use coconut coir or compost to help improve nutrients.

You can also sow individually in 4-inch pots if you want to do that.

But a seed kit is a lot cheaper and you can sow upwards of 3 dozen at once! It depends on how much jewelweed you wanna grow. Water gently. Then put 2-3 seeds per compartment.

There’s NO NEED to cover them with soil since you’re growing indoors. Keep it moist. Use a humidity dome or plastic bag to keep the moisture. Mist daily to keep the humidity up.

Seeds will germinate at room temperature. Place it somewhere out of drafts or HVAC. Jewelweeds germinate within 6-8 weeks at 50-70F.

It should get a bit of dappled sunlight daily, but not direct full sun. This will burn it. Thin to the strongest plant after seedlings emerge.

When they sprout, they need to be quickly transitioned to the garden so they can harden off.

Harden them off by acclimating them to the outside conditions for a few hours each day for a week.

If you start them outside in the first place, there’s no need to worry about this since they’ll be acclimated to it

But if your zone is just too cold, then yeah, you gotta do it.

From seedlings

The other choice is to buy a pre-grown plant from the garden center/nursery near you.

The container they’re sold in generally only can provide space for so long, so you’ll need to move them into the garden.

Prepare a space the same depth and width as the original container it came in. If the pot is biodegradable, you can just plant it without removing it.

If not, then gently remove the jewelweed from the pot and then plant it. The plant is extremely fragile, so be careful. You can wet the soil to help loosen it if it’s firm.

Once it’s planted, give it a good watering. Seedlings should be spaced at least 18 inches apart so they don’t compete for nutrients.

During germination, keep it moist using a humidity dome. Don’t let the water dry out between watering. When the seedlings have hardened off, the plant will still be fragile.

Tip the pot and lose it with water to help dislodge it from the container. Don’t handle them too roughly.

Firm the plant in place and then give it a good watering to settle. The stems are strong which makes them hardy when established, but younger seedlings are fragile. So be careful.

Did you know the stems contain a clear sap that’s used to ease the itch of poison ivy? Yes, it’s true!

How to care for jewelweed

This section covers general care guidelines for jewelweed (both orange and yellow). Depending on your zone, your plant’s care needs will vary.

Consult these guidelines as basic TLC for jewelweed. If you have any questions, feel free to post them in the comments section! Jewelweed plant care is easy.

If the soil is wet, shady, and gets enough moisture, it will seed itself. Use mulch if your soil dries out quickly.

Hardiness zone

Jewelweed grows in USDA hardiness zones 3-10. They can be found all over the US and grow in the woodlands.

When planting in the garden, they need to have specific conditions to fully develop those large blooms

Thankfully, they’ve adapted to a wide range of zones in the US, so it’s ready for a variety of different garden setups.

Note that orange vs. yellow species will have different requirements, but will tolerate the same zones.

Soil

The soil you choose is one of the most important things you can do to ensure the biggest blooms possible.

Use soil that’s rich, loamy, and full of organic nutrients. Don’t use dry, clumpy, or poor-quality soil.

Put in some organic compost or manure with the soil- about 2-3 inches of it. This helps increase the nutrient density of the soil and will eliminate the need for plant food later on. Moisture is good for orange jewelweed.

Yellow varieties can tolerate a drier substrate.

Soil pH

Jewelweed prefers acidic to neutral soil pH. Aim for pH values between 3.5-7.5. Amend your soil if the pH is too basic (alkaline) with natural soil amendments such as sulfur, peat moss, sulfuric acid, vinegar, lemon juice, iron sulfate, or aluminum sulfate.

These materials are readily available in your local garden center or online (check Amazon). Use a soil pH tester to get the acidity within the right range for your jewelweed.

Spacing

Space each plant at least 18 inches apart. If placed too close together, the plants will compete for nutrients. Jewelweed plants are found in small clusters in nature.

If seeds are sown nearby, they’ll help support each other to grow taller. If soil conditions are good and can provide for such several plants in a small area, then it should be OK.

Otherwise, provide ample space to help reduce competition.

Depth

Seeds should be simply placed on the soil surface, not buried. The seeds can be scattered for a wild grown-in look if desired. Be careful when watering so that you don’t wash the seeds out of place.

If transplanting a plant you purchased from the nursery, try to create the same environment as the original container- with the same depth and width.

Temperature

Jewelweed prefers warmer temperatures that are wet. The suitable temperature range is 60-75F. If temperatures drop below 40F, the plant will not bloom and the flowers will drop.

It can also stunt their growth. If temperatures exceed 90F, blooming may also stop or the plant may scorch/burn. This is not a full sun plant that can give 8 hours of direct sunlight.

It needs only a few hours of it with partial, filtered light for the rest of the time. It prefers warmer, but not hot temperatures with plenty of moisture.

Getting your shade cycles with enough moisture will help optimize its flower production over time.

Humidity

Jewelweed natively grows near streams or ponds in woody areas, so the higher the moisture, the closer to home it feels. This is a high humidity plant that thrives on moisture, so ensure that you provide it by using the right moisture retaining soil. Spotted jewelweed requires less moisture. Consistently moist soil is required. Don’t let it dry out between waterings.

Plant food

Fertilizer isn’t necessary for most jewelweed species. If proper conditions are kept in the soil along with a good watering regimen, they should be sufficient.

If you have poor soil conditions or want to optimize their growth, you can supplement with some organic mulch or compost. This is why choosing the right soil type is important.

Using high-quality soil will feed your jewelweed until it becomes established. Otherwise, you may need to amend it later on.

Fertilizer that has lower nitrogen values will help produce more blooms. If your plant has too many leggy leaves but not enough flowers, use a fertilizer that has an NPK ratio of 4-8-4.

Organic plant food is ideal if you can get it. Otherwise, general-purpose plant food will do. You can use balanced NPK ratios if you don’t have a problem with leggy leaves.

But if your soil is good enough, plant food isn’t needed to feed jewelweed. You can use a shovelful of organic compost in the summer if they aren’t growing well. When established, weeds will be nothing to them.

Until it does, pull weeds when you see them.

Blooming

Jewelweed will produce unscented flowers from mid-summer to fall. Each flower has up to 5 petals and will reach a max diameter of 3 inches across.

They can be orange, yellow, or yellow-orange.

They have a reddish spotting that can look like rust. Deadhead the spent blooms to encourage more blooming. Use less nitrogen fertilizer to encourage more blooms.

Watering

Keep jewelweed well watered when established. If your region is prone to drought, you’ll need to water more often to keep the blooms going.

For regions with plenty of rainfall, supplemental watering may not be necessary. Drier regions will need 1-2 inches of water, which is 2-3 watering sessions weekly.

Note that ambient climate, humidity, and temperature will affect how much water you need. Moisture retaining soil will hold water efficiently compared to other soils, especially if you supplement with coconut coir, peat moss, or some other water-absorbing substrate.

If you’re ever on the fence when deciding if you should get the expensive or cheaper soil, the premium one pays off over time by saving you water, time, and energy.

If the leaves droop, water more often. If the leaves fall off, ensure that you’re watering multiple times per week at the base of the plant. Cold weather can also make the leaves drop.

Sunlight

Provide ample sunlight if growing in zones 3-10. Partial shade setups work well with orange jewelweed, which prefers more moisture compared to yellow jewelweed.

If your garden has some source of natural filtration for bright full sun, such as taller plants, it’s a good location. Dappled sunlight near bushes, streams, or ponds is ideal. Look for a shady location where full sun is limited to just a few hours daily.

Pruning

Pruning is often unnecessary for jewelweed because it can reduce the number of blooms it produces. Unless the foliage is yellowing, browning, or infested, it should be left alone.

Spent flowers can be removed. Leaves that have active infestations, pests, or just look ugly should also be removed. Providing enough shade with adequate moisture should help keep your specimens looking good.

If you decide to prune, be careful not to accidentally break the seed pods.

When they explode, they’ll dump their seeds. Prune with sterilized scissors only. Use rubbing alcohol to sterilize between plants so cross contamination won’t happen.

Overwintering

When the season comes to an end, you have the option of cutting your jewelweed back.

However, if you choose to leave it alone, that’s fine too. Just don’t step on the seeds as that can kill the germination process. Cutting it back for the winter may help keep bugs or other critters out of the garden.

But again, it’s not necessary especially if you don’t want to hurt the plant from self-propagation itself.

The seeds will burst from the seed pods and then scatter themselves within a few feet around the host plant. If you step into this area, it can kill them. If you prefer to NOT let it self sow, simply cut off faded flowers.

You can also wrap them with bags or linens towards the season’s end to prevent pollination. Seeds that escape will sprout, but you can dig them out and prevalent them or pluck them.

Jewelweed is an annual, so there’s no need to save it for next season. It’ll seed itself and propagate new jewelweed plants in the spring. No winterizing is needed.

Seed collecting

Jewelweed will self-seed in the autumn, so you must provide enough space between each plant. If not, you’ll need to thin or remove the seedlings so they don’t overcrowd and then compete for nutrients.

Jewelweed will outcompete other plants.

When two of them are placed too close together, they’ll starve each other until they both become stunted. Jewelweed doesn’t need to be propagated once you have at least a single plant going.

Self-seeding in zones 3-10, no human intervention is required. Avoid planting too close to other jewelweeds or other plants in your garden as the seeds will disperse themselves which can compete with other garden plants for nutrients.

The seed pods will burst on their own which helps distribute the seeds.

Seeds can be harvested from the pods by placing a bag over the pod and then gently shaking it to drop the seeds.

Put them in an envelope for next season. Seeds will need to be stratified before use in some environments.

Pests

Similar to other wildflowers, there are only a few pests that can do enough damage to harm jewelweed. Since it is a wildflower, it naturally brings in animals that like to munch on it.

Deer are a primary concern, but only if they are high in population. You’ll get deer coming in and chewing on the leaves, but if it’s just a few of them, they shouldn’t be able to do any major damage.

Other insects such as caterpillars, aphids, mites, flies, fungus gnats, or other leaf borers may show up to eat the leaves. But rarely will it kill the plant unless it’s in a weakened state or not established yet.

Most bugs can be ridden with some natural neem oil or insecticidal soap. Use as instructed.

What animals eat jewelweed?

Birds are also attracted to the flowers. It also brings in birds like songbirds, hummingbirds, etc.

Butterflies, bees, white-footed mice, bobwhites, ruffed grouse, and moths are also feeders of the seeds. Wasps, flies, and other pollinators will come for the flowers.

Birds are the main pollinator that’ll make use of the plant’s flowers. If you’re growing other crops, it can help get more beneficial pollinators to your yard.

Not everything that comes to jewelweed is a pollinator. They’ll help pollinate your plants, but jewelweed will do fine on its own.

Disease

Impatiens are vulnerable to fungus, such as plant rust from P. recondita. If your jewelweed leaves turn orange, yellow, or red, it’s likely plant rust. The stems may also become wilted or twisted. Rust should be pruned off immediately.

Fungal infections are common in humid environments. Root rot, leaf spot, or other fungal problems can be fixed by reducing watering and/or pruning.

Companion plants

Jewelweed is a good companion plant that pairs well with other crops or foliage that shares similar environments.

Moist, boggy setups are what it thrives in.

So consider planting it with other moisture-loving plants:

• Virginia bluebell
• Great Waterleaf
• Buttonbush
• Cardinal flowers
• Spring Beauty
• Elderberries
• Ferns
• Ironweed
• Asters
• Bonesets

It can also outcompete non-native plants and suppress weeds, so it’s a double-edged sword. If you have other plants growing nearby, it may compete for nutrients.

Don’t plant jewelweed with

Avoid planting jewelweed with plants that prefer drier conditions. This eliminates many popular garden plants from the list. Slow-growing or smaller plants can be outcompeted by jewelweed’s hungry tendencies.

Usage scenarios

Jewelweed is amazing to grow along streams or ponds. They do well in moist soil conditions and will naturally grow in these setups. They can also be used for landscaping or forest edging.

Boggy soils are also ideal for these guys. Jewelweed makes a good plant cover or gives your garden that jungle-like setup. They bring in animals, and pollinators, and can be planted next to crops to help them get fertilized.

Bees are also jewelweed friendly as they can make a good forage source beehive.

Growing indoors

This is not an indoor plant and will need to be put outside when they sprout.

The only time they should be grown indoors is during germination or hardening off. It’s much too big to be grown inside the house, let alone provide the right environment for it to thrive.

Growing in containers

Jewelweed should be planted in pots only if you wish to keep them limited to specific parts of your garden.

Container planting has its benefits, such as the ability to relocate it if needed. You can modify the amount of light or shade it gets simply by moving the pot.

But you shouldn’t be doing this often as they don’t like being moved once settled. Container growing also helps you keep the plant confined to a single space, as container-grown plants generally won’t grow as big as soil-planted ones.

If you plan to grow jewelweed in a pot, make sure you water it enough as water evaporates quickly in pots. The soil you use must be a high-quality potting mix that’s well draining. Pooling is bad. Be sure to change the pot when it outgrows it every so often.

Otherwise, care is the same as soil down jewelweed.

Commonly asked questions about jewelweed

This section includes questions commonly asked by readers about jewelweed care.

If you don’t find your answer here, post your questions using the comments form at the end of this page.

Is jewelweed invasive?

Jewelweed is considered invasive in some zones. Ornamental jewelweed (Impatiens glandulifea) is an invasive plant, but it’s not the same as orange or yellow jewelweed.

The orange/yellow varieties are noted for their ability to compete with native plants by the US Forest Service.

What does jewelweed smell like?

Jewelweed is scentless. The flowers don’t have smells. It has no fragrance.

How do you make jewelweed tea?

Here’s a video that shows you how to make tea. Before consuming, consult with your GP. Jewelweed tea has no proven benefits that are backed by official sources.

Is jewelweed succulent?

Jewelweed isn’t a succulent. It’s a wildflower. Although it does look exotic with those toothed leaves and large blossoms, it’s still not succulent.

It also requires wet conditions near water sources to thrive, rather than completely dry conditions like most other succulents that are found in arid zones (think Butterwort or Aloe vera).

Does jewelweed grow near poison ivy?

It’s said to grow near poison ivy, but this isn’t confirmed. It does prefer many of the same environments that poison ivy grows- near ditches, ponds, or streams.

So you’ll often find them growing nearby each other, but just because you see ivy doesn’t mean you’ll see jewelweed. Poison ivy grows in most of the US, but jewelweed is limited to zones 3-10.

Is jewelweed a perennial?

Jewelweed is an annual wildflower. It’s only good for one season, but it ensures that you only have to wait a few months for blooms to come out. If conditions are optimal, it’ll self-seed for next season.

Further reading/references

You may get some value out of these resources:

• Jewelweed, Impatiens capensis – Wisconsin Horticulture
• Jewelweed – Illinois Extension
• Species Spotlight | Jewelweed (Impatiens capensis Meerb. ) – Reddit

Enjoy your jewelweed!

Now that you know how to care for jewelweed, you can enjoy those gorgeous yellow/orange blooms in your garden. If you really wanna turn it into a jungle, jewelweed is a perfect addition to do so.

The ease of care, the dense plant coverage, and the benefit of bringing in wildlife (birds, bees, deer, rodents, etc.) to your garden are all-inclusive with Impatiens capensis!

Do you have any tips for other readers? Put your thoughts in the comments section below and share your words of wisdom! If you have any feedback on this article, please let me know as well by doing the same!

The post How to Grow Jewelweed (Ultimate Care Sheet) appeared first on Gardenisms.

While it can be needy with its watering and sunlight requirements, it’s worth it to be able to take in that jungle-like appearance every time you walk by.

It’s green. It’s variegated. It loves medium-light with room temperate conditions.

It’s been used in gardens, households, and even terrariums as a decorative plant.

Let’s dive in and learn how to grow and care for false aralia.

Did you know they can be called Schefflera elegantissima, Plerandra elgeantissima, or Dizygotheca elegantissima? They all refer to the same species because the name has been changed multiple times.

(Featured image by Forest and Kim Starr, CC BY 2.0.)

Last updated: 6/23/22.

Quick care guide: False aralia (Plerandra elegantissima)

Plant type	Evergreen shrub
Origin	Southern Europe, Northern Africa, Western Asia.
Scientific name	P. elegantissima
Other names	Threadleaf, Dizygotheca elegantissima Schefflera elegantissima, spider aralia
Soil type	Fertile, loamy, well-draining, peaty, mossy
Soil pH	5.5-6.5 (acidic to neutral)
Sunlight requirement	Filtered sunlight, partial sunlight
Bloom season	Summer, fall
Colors	Green, silver, white, yellow, red, brown, copper.
Max height	10 feet
Max width	3 feet
Low temperature tolerance	65F
High temperature tolerance	85F
Ideal temperature range	70-75F
Humidity	Moderate to high (60% or higher)
Watering requirements	1" per week
Fertilizer requirements	Light feeding during spring, summer
Plant food NPK	10-10-10
Days until germination	2-3 weeks from seed
Days until bloom	Rarely blooms in captivity
Speed of growth	Slow
Hardiness zones	10, 11, 12
Plant depth	0.25" from seed, same depth as original container from transplant
Plant spacing	3 feet
Plant with	Butterfly ginger, cordyline, elephant ears, tibouchina, caladium, variegated peperomia, amaryllis, fishtail fern.
Don't plant with	Don't overcrowd containers or plant too closely
Propagation method	Seeds, transplants, cuttings
Common pests	Aphids, spider mites, mealybugs, scale, thrips, whiteflies.
Common diseases	Pseudomonas leaf blight, root rot
Indoor plant	Yes
Outdoor plant	Yes
Grown in container	Yes
Flowering plant	Yes, but not in captivity
Beginner friendly	Yes
Care level	Moderate (requires specific watering, fertilizer, and temperature requirements)
Best uses	Decoration, indoor plant, houseplant

What’s false aralia?

Also known as threadleaf, finger aralia, or “spider,” false aralia is the “fake” version of aralia. If you don’t really know what to look for, you’ll mistake it for the real aralia.

This is just a decoy. The “real thing” is 50 feet tall.

It’s a slow-growing houseplant that does well in moderate light environments. While not too beginner-friendly, it’s not too difficult to take care of.

The finely divided leaves give it a feather-like appearance. Younger plants can be used on the tabletop or desk and they pair well with other indoor plants.

Their woody trunks are perfect for decorating empty spaces or complimenting furniture. Bigger plants can be used as spacers or dividers. The leaves contain 7-10 leaflets with small teeth. It has little branching and is vulnerable to mealybugs.

In the fall, it grows pale green leaves with black fruit. It is considered a flowering plant, but rarely does in cultivation.

They’re gorgeous to look at and will grow fuller in brighter spots. Repotting every few years helps benefit the growth.

False aralia is commonly confused with Japanese maple. It has a distinctive look- the leaves are serrated with toothed edges. The leaves can be green, copper, burgundy, or even a mix of all three.

This is one of those plants that’ll react directly to how much light you give it.

False aralia is native to New Caledonia.

Is false aralia easy to grow?

False aralia isn’t as beginner-friendly as other houseplants like anthurium or Stromanthe Triostar, but it’s not that difficult either.

It does have specific temperature, humidity, and watering requirements.

But other than that, it’s not bad. You just need to have patience and the will to do the work. With those gorgeous serrated leaves and their dark green color, it’s all the motivation you need.

Types of false aralia

Thankfully, false aralia doesn’t have thousands of cultivars to choose from.

Call me boring, but I like limited choices because it makes deciding which plant to grow easier. Here are some of the most popular false aralia types on the market:

• S. elegantissima Galaxy (divided leaves with dark green color and shiny foliage)
• S. elegantissima Gold Crest (golden leaves with feathery texture)
• S. elegantissima Bianca (yellow leaves with less sharpness, wider foliage)
• S. elegantissima Olympia (dark red leaves)

You may be able to find more choices online or in your local specialized nursery.

Please note that false aralia isn’t meant for consumption and has some degree of toxins.

How to propagate false aralia

Propagating false aralia is straightforward- you can grow from seed or cuttings.

As mentioned prior, false aralia does require some specialized knowledge to grow.

But it’s not too difficult. Here’s what you’ll need to know.

If you’re completely new to this species, perhaps just buying a plant from the nursery is the easiest option. It’ll cost you a premium, but it saves you time and energy.

Plus, you can start enjoying it earlier. Don’t forget that.

Starting from seed

Seeds can be purchased or harvested from existing plants.

If you have a friend or neighbor who has false aralia already, you can extract the seeds from the center of the plum-colored fruits.

Upon collecting the seeds, soak them in a lukewarm bath.

Then, place them into a mixture of sphagnum moss with fine potting sand. They should be soaked for at least 2 days. The substrate mixture should be sealed inside something airtight to prevent molding. Think of a plastic zipper bag or canning jar.

The seeds should be kept moist until germination, which can take 4-5 weeks. Lightly mist the substrate to keep the incubator humid. Maintain temperatures between 70-75F. Place the container in bright, filtered sunlight. It loves sun and humidity.

Or use a grow light if none is available in your household.

Expect germination to be poor. False aralia doesn’t germinate easily in the household. For the few seedlings that sprout, place each one in a small pot with a diameter of at least 4”. Sow each plant 0.25” deep.

Continue to spritz it often to keep it moist while keeping other growing conditions constant. Avoid sudden changes in the temperature or humidity.

The first few pairs of true leaves will grow after a few weeks. When this happens, you’re ready to move it to the great outdoors.

From seedings

Starting from seedlings skips the headache for germination, but still offers some exposure to growing it from a near-seed state.

While it doesn’t give you as much of a head start as starting from cuttings, it’s a good compromise in between. You can buy seedlings/transplants from local garden centers.

Choose a healthy virulent false aralia. Look for signs of pests or drooping leaves. These are signs of a damaged plant.

Quarantine for 2 weeks upon bringing it home so you don’t infest your garden. After it’s cleared, move it to your planter of choice. Choose one that’s the same size as the pot it came in or larger.

Generally, commercial nurseries will fill it with the smallest pot possible to save on costs. Sizing up is a good idea.

Layer it with a potting mix that’s high quality and well-draining.

Some people like to put a layer of perlite or sand at the bottom to help drain. You can mix in some sphagnum moss or vermiculite to help create the right type of soil that false aralia loves.

Remove the plant from its original container by watering it to loosen the dirt. Put the pot sideways and then gently dig it out with a spade. Dig from the outside in towards the center root.

Be careful you don’t cut the roots by mistake. Water it well. Then resoil if needed.

Starting from cuttings

Using cuttings is preferable over starting from seed because of a higher rate of success.

• With seeds, you need your seeds to germinate and root.
• With cuttings, you just have to deal with roots. Plus, you also know what the plant will look like when it’s fully grown.

False aralia cuttings can be taken from plants that are at least 2 years old. Younger plants will produce poor-quality cuttings for use as growing mediums.

Get a pair of pruners. Sterilize them with rubbing alcohol. Make a cut around the end of a healthy-looking stem. It should be fully grown. Take the cutting about 8 inches from the end so you have plenty of “stem” to work with. Look for a stem that’s soft, pliable, and flexible. It shouldn’t be thick or rigid. Cut at 45 degrees.

Remove the foliage from the bottom 5 inches or so, but leave the top layer of leaves. This will aid in photosynthesis for rooting.

Grab the flesh end and dip it in rooting powder. There are many different types of hormone gels or fine powders you can use. Some popular choices are TakeRoot or Garden Safe. You can find these powders online or in your local home improvement store.

Use the rooting hormone as directed. If you’re using a dip, make sure that the entire cut end has a good thick covering of it because when you plant it, a lot will rub off from the stem you cut into the substrate.

Get a four-inch container and then fill it with a quality seed starter. There’s no need to use organic if you don’t want to since you’re not eating it.

Just choose something that’s well-draining, chock full of nutrients, and has a decent reputation. Moisture retaining properties are a plus.

It should also have multiple outlets to drain out water just in case one gets clogged. You can improve the drainage by adding a 1” layer of perlite, sand, or coconut coir. This will prevent clogging.

Plant the stem with the cut side in. Be gentle when planting. Make sure that the rooting powder doesn’t come off because you need all the help you can get to help it successfully root. You know that false aralia is stubborn by this point, right?

Water it well the first time around to moisten the soil and build water runoff pathways. The water should drain quickly. Mist it several times daily.

Cover with a plastic bag or plant cover to help increase the moisture. Monitor for mold or root rot. After a few weeks, give it a tug to see if it stays in place.

If so, congrats, you’ve rooted it! If not, give it some more time. You can also note the new buds forming on the stem as a sign of successful rooting.

How to care for false aralia

Here are some general guidelines that teach you how to care for your false aralia.

While care needs vary depending on the cultivar, caring for aralia is generally the same.

You can use these as a rule of thumb so you know what’s involved in P. elegantissima care. This plant has been successfully grown in gardens, households, and even patios or decks.

Hardiness zone

False aralia grows in USDA hardiness zones 10-12.

If you’re not in these ideal zones, it can be grown indoors or in protected regions. But if you want to increase your chances of success, planting indoors is ideal.

When grown outside, it’ll grow larger than its indoor size as with most plants. Natively, they can grow upwards of 50 feet tall.

But inside the house? They’re limited to just about 6-7 feet. You can see the huge difference in size when false aralia is left by itself in its native environment.

When you grow it indoors, you’re basically growing a mini aralia. But the features it has to give you a taste of the real thing.

Soil type

Use well-draining soil that retains moisture well. It’s imperative you use soil that drains efficiently since this plant gets root rot easily.

Soil pH

False aralia prefers slightly acidic to neutral soils. Aim for a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. If your soil is too alkaline, you can add limestone or soil pH down to bring down the pH.

Depth

When starting from seed, plant each seed 1″ deep. When transplanting, plant each one as deep as the original container it came in.

Spacing

Space each plant at least 3 feet apart from each other when planting multiple aralias. Fully grown ones will need space to grow outwards. Compacting them will make them compete for resources which may result in smaller plants.

Sunlight

So, how much sun does a false aralia need?

False aralia requires bright, filtered sunlight. It should never be grown directly in sunlight.

Excess sunlight will burn or scorch the foliage, but lack of light will make it grow smaller with dull green leaves. Like any other plant, it requires a balance between lighting conditions.

Bright light gives you that dark green color for select cultivars.

If you’re growing indoors as a houseplant, you’ll need to find somewhere that provides that nice dappled sunlight from the windows or use a grow light. If outdoors, the area should be sheltered from direct sunlight.

Fertilizer

False aralia will benefit from houseplant fertilizer with an NPK of 10-10-10. Balanced plant food works.

Use as directed, preferably at least twice per month. Slow-release will sustain your plant much more efficiently.

Opt for fertilizers made for houseplants. They don’t need regular fertilization to grow. But it does help them grow faster and fuller.

Temperature

The ideal temperature range is between 70-75F, which is just around room temperature.

False aralia doesn’t like the cold. If temperatures drop below 60F, then it can damage your plant.

There are many things you can do to keep temperatures stable- don’t place it near drafty windows, doors, HVAC units, etc. Keep it in a sheltered place.

Humidity

Humidity will generally be lower when the ambient air is cold. This plant prefers higher humidity, so growing it near sinks or showers will keep the air wet.

You can spritz it a few times per day to keep the leaves moist. Consider using DIY humidity trays to raise the humidity as well. This plant loves moisture nearby.

Here’s a good video to building your own humidity tray:

Watering

Just like providing sunlight for it, the right amount of water is also important.

Overwatering will lead to plant rot while underwatering will lead to slow growth or drooping leaves. A lot of it comes down to the pot you’re using. If it drains efficiently, watering problems should be kept to a minimum.

When you notice slow draining, it may be clogged with roots or soil buildup. Or it may be time to upgrade to a new planter.

Use your finger and stick it into the soil. The top 1” should be completely dry before you water again.

You can also use a moisture meter to get the exact water saturation in the soil if you’re unsure or just don’t wanna get your finger dirty. A surefire sign that it’s time to water your false aralia is leaf dropping.

The older leaves drop off when there’s too little water. Drooping is also another symptom of underwatering.

How often do you water Aralia?

Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Depending on your indoor conditions, this can be every other day to twice a week. Aim for 1 inch of water weekly, but adjust as necessary.

The most precise way to know when to water your false aralia is to use a soil meter.

Water at the base deeply, not the leaves. Empty the saucer regularly. Pooling will lead to root rot.

Misting

Misting with distilled water can be a good way to keep the humidity up. Mist several times a day with a few spritzes of water. Use a hygrometer to measure ambient humidity. Keep it at least 60% or higher.

Pruning

False aralia doesn’t grow that quickly, so pruning isn’t something you need to worry about. Every now and then when the leaves look dry, brown, or wilted, get a sterilized pair of pruners to gently prune them off.

Other than that, there’s no need to cut it back unless you’re trying to keep it compact or tidy.

No need to make it a chore. If you don’t want your false aralia to grow too tall or wide, prune off the stem tip to keep it small. Yellow leaves should also be pruned.

Repotting

False aralia will need to be repotted when it outgrows its container.

If you choose your container size wisely, you don’t have to do this often. Every 2-3 years, upgrade the pot by one size. Assess the roots. If they’re touching the edges of the planter, then yeah, it’s time to upgrade.

To save yourself time, you can just buy a few sizes up so you don’t have to repot as often. Repotting also replenishes the nutrients in the potting mix, which is necessary for plant growth.

When uprooting the plant, try to remove as much soil stuck on it as you can. Repot in fresh soil.

Overwintering

False aralia is an evergreen, so it naturally will tolerate the wintertime on its own.

There’s nothing you need to do unless you have fierce winters. Outdoors, false aralia will tolerate the winter on its own if you’re in zones 10-12. Colder conditions may require plant overs, layers of mulch, or they need to be moved indoors.

Winterizing isn’t usually necessary for evergreen plants.

Repot in the spring or summer for best results.

Pests

False aralia is vulnerable to pest damage.

Unlike hardier houseplants (think dracaena or elephant ears), false aralia isn’t hardy to pests and will easily be overwhelmed by small bug populations.

This is why growing it indoors is beneficial- you can monitor for bug activity since you’re always walking by it in your house. Aphids will feast on the young, tender leaves since they’re so easily digestible.

They suck the sap out of the eaves and will deposit a sticky honey-like residue. This later brings some dark fuzzy mold if you let it sit. If you see aphids, take action now.

Use a natural insecticide made for aphids to eradicate them. Remove them manually. Spray down your plant with a high-powered hose. Aphids are destructive and will suck up all that precious place juice from your false aralia like crazy.

Spider mites are another common pest that’ll feed on your false aralia by piercing the leaves with their microscopic mouthparts. They pierce the foliage then suck out the nutrients.

If you have a lot of these mites, you may notice that no matter how much you’re watering your plant, it continues to drop leaves, yellow, or wilt. Spider mites can be ridden by using neem oil, horticultural oil, or pressurized spraying.

Diseases

False aralia is susceptible to root rot, which is a common disease with plants grown in high humidity conditions. It looks like soft brown spots that develop on the leaves. The leaves may also drop off.

Pathogens infect the roots and then cause them to rot. They may be introduced from contaminated soil or fertilizer. Watering too much will also create problems.

It introduces a suitable environment for pathogens to infest. Poor draining soil, clogged outlets, or just stagnant water are all agents for root rot. Remove the plant from the container and clean off the soil stuck on it. Replace the soil completely in the pot or use a new one. It needs to be sterilized with vinegar before repotting.

Companion plants

False aralia is typically planted by itself in its own planter.

However, if you’re planting outside, you can pair it with companion plants within a few select varieties to create a gorgeous landscape.

To get your mind jogging, here are some good companion plants for false aralia:

• Fishtail fern
• Butterfly ginger
• Fishtail fern
• Amaryllis
• Caladium
• Elephant ears
• Cordyline
• Variegated peperomia

Don’t plant with

It’s simple when it comes to knowing what to avoid planting false aralia with.

Simply just let it grow in its own planter UNLESS your pot is large enough to handle multiple trunks. This woody evergreen looks amazing when it has that fuller look with multiple plants planted together. Just don’t overcrowd.

Don’t plant multiple false aralias in the same potter if they’re too big.

Best uses

False aralia is used as a houseplant to spice up any room.

It can be placed in the corner but should be rotated weekly so it gets equal sunlight exposure. It can also be grown outdoors if the conditions are right. Just looking at those serrated green leaves is everything.

Commonly asked questions about false aralia care

Here are some handy tips for getting the most out of your houseplant.

Help! My false aralia is drooping!

Drooping leaves are usually a sign of overwatering or underwatering.

Check to make sure that your pot isn’t clogged. The soil may be clumping at the base preventing it from draining.

Check for pests like spider mites snapping away at the plant. Backed-up water will pool and can also lead to root rot below the soil surface. Use a moisture meter for precision.

Can aralia be grown outdoors? Can false Aralia live outside?

Yes, they can.

False aralia grows natively in temperate zones, so obviously they can survive outdoors.

But for most people, false aralia is grown as a houseplant because they don’t have the right conditions outside to provide for it.

This is why it’s popular as a houseplant. If you’re in USDA zones 10-12, you can plant it in your garden to maximize its growth.

Why is my false aralia dropping leaves?

Dropping leaves is a common symptom of excess sunlight or overwatering.

Only water when the top inch of soil is dry. Move your plant to a place with dappled light rather than bright direct light. This is not a full sun plant. Check for pest activity.

Can you prune false aralia?

Yes, you can prune your plant to keep it looking clean. Prune off any yellow or brown leaves. Since it’s a slow-growing houseplant, it doesn’t need much pruning.

Should I mist my aralia?

Misting is good for keeping the humidity high, which false aralia loves. Spray the leaves gently with a few spritzes multiple times a day to raise the humidity.

Is it an indoor plant?

It’s popular to grow false aralia indoors, but you can also grow it outside if you’re in zones 10-12. It makes a striking houseplant because of its serrated leaves and dark colors.

Does false aralia bloom?

False aralia blooms in nature, but rarely in the household or garden. If you’re growing it indoors, you can expect no blooms or flowers.

Can you grow it in a terrarium?

Since false aralia like high humidity, many hobbyists grow it in a terrarium or aquarium.

Because it grows very slowly and pairs well with moderate light conditions, it’s a popular choice for small terrariums. Dish gardens are another common usage scenario.

Is it a perennial or annual?

False aralia is an evergreen, so it’s neither an annual nor perennial. It grows year-round and doesn’t need to be replanted if correctly cared for.

Further reading/references

Resources that you may find beneficial:

• FPS180/FP180: Dizygotheca elegantissima False Aralia – U of FL
• What’s going on with my false aralia? – Reddit
• Plerandra elegantissima – Wikipedia

Enjoy your false aralia

Now that you’re armed with everything you need to know about growing and caring for false aralia, you can enjoy those dark green big green leaves.

This houseplant isn’t nearly as popular as other houseplants, but the elegance of those serrated leaves is worth the extra effort they require to reach their full glory.

This plant can be confused with others, but it’s not! It’s really one of a kind.

Do you have any questions? Have you grown false aralia before and have some tips to share with other readers? Drop your comments in the section below and let us know.

The post How to Grow False Aralia Indoors (Beginner’s Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

These gorgeous, colorful early blooming plants are sold for cheap by the rack at a lot of discount garden centers.

They’re quick to bloom and add a bunch of color to any yard. And they’re one of the first few plants in the spring to do so.

But most gardeners use them as a temporary piece only- buying again every single year when they can be kept for years to come.

You’ll learn how to take care of them in the winter care guide for pansies.

Let’s get started.

Are pansies good for the winter?

Pansies are considered to be cold-hardy plants that do well all over the US.

Areas that are especially cold in lower hardiness zones, such as the Midwest and Northeast still have some cultivars that are made for cold tolerance.

Pansies are often sold as annuals in garden centers but are poorly cared for, so they often wither and are tossed out rather than winterized for next spring.

With proper care, pansies can be overwintered for a bountiful bloom of color.

Are pansies perennials or annuals?

Pansies are both, depending on your hardiness zone.

If you’re in a lower zone, pansies can be considered a biennial decorative ornamental flower.

Higher zones typically can’t nurture them over the summer/winter so they’re considered annuals.

They’re often marketed as annual plants in nurseries when in reality they act more like perennials. It’s all down to the hardiness zone and cultivar type.

What is the lowest temperature pansies can tolerate?

Pansies are cold-tolerant plants and will do fine as low as 25 degrees. At this point, even the most resilient varieties will likely become damaged or wilt in the cold.

The plant will likely survive the frost but will have fewer blooms that are less colorful and dramatic in the spring.

If you’re in a colder hardiness zone, you’ll need to use mulch, row covers, or time the planting correctly so that it has enough time to build a root system for the winter.

Anything below 25F is too cold for pansies and they will probably be harmed by the elements.

What are some cold-hardy pansies

Some of the best cold-hardy pansies that do well in the winter are Snow Angel pansies. These survive the winter in zones as low as 4 and will come back in the spring.

The pansy looks like a tiger’s eye, so it’s commonly called Viola Tiger Eyes with a white, yellow, and black patterning.

Some other species to consider are Cool Wave, Icicle, and Columbine.

Pansy winter care guide

Here are some tips to care for pansies over the winter.

Apply them accordingly to your hardiness zone or specific pansy cultivar you’re growing.

The following guidelines should work for the majority of general pansy care.

Know your hardiness zone

This is the absolute baseline for proper pansy care.

If you choose the right hardiness zone from the start, you’ll have a much easier time raising them with a lot less headache.

Pansies vary in activity depending on your hardiness zone. If you’re in zones 4-7, they’ll bloom in the spring and go dormant in the winter.

Pansies are known to be early bloomers, so if you need a plant that produces color quickly, these are one of the first to flower in the spring.

When winter rolls around, they’ll die back and go dormant.

They also don’t tolerate heat well, so you’ll often see pansies drop all their leaves and begin to wither in the peak of summer.

If you’re in zones 8-11, expect that your plant won’t come back next year.

Treat it like an annual rather than a biennial because they simply don’t have the hardiness to tolerate the brutal conditions outdoors in these zones.

So you’ll have to buy another set next spring if you want to continue growing them.

Don’t even bother with caring for them over the cold season as it’s likely they’ll wither before it even gets here. Unless you have a super hardy variety.

Choose pansies with strong roots, not blooms

When it comes to choosing pansies, don’t fall for the color (as hard as it is).

Choose plants with established root systems that are virulent. Choose the healthiest ones you can find.

Don’t get any that have damaged or weak roots. The plants with developed systems will have a head start to winter already.

Plant early

Be sure to plant your pansies as early as possible. This will allow their root system to become established so they can handle the coming winter.

If you plant them too late, they’ll waste all their energy on producing flowers and buds- leaving little time for them to get a strong root system.

Plant them spaced at least 8” apart for optimal growth. This will grant them good air circulation and reduce competition between the pansy roots.

Use good soil that’s well-draining. Pansies aren’t tolerant to cold, pooled water.

Any cold water that pools around the stem and roots can kill the plant in the winter. Ensure the soil drains properly and there’s absolutely no pooling.

The temperature should be between 45-65F. If you’re in zones 6-7, plant at the end of September. If you’re in zones 7-8, plant in October.

The best month to plant pansies is in the fall.

Consider a standing plant bed

During the winter, snow and rain can be detrimental to pansies.

They can lead to root rot and mold. Use a raised plant bed if possible. This will ensure that the excess moisture drains out the bottom and keeps your pansies from pooling.

Remove any nearby competing plants like weeds so all the nutrients and water go directly to your pansies.

Prune blooms

After the flower has been spent, be sure to prune it off right away.

This will conserve energy and give it to the roots rather than a dead bloom.

This will help keep the root vitalized so they can continue growing until the temps dip to 25F, where the plant will enter dormancy.

It’s important to give them as much time as possible to develop strong roots which is what sustains the plant during the cold temps.

Winterizing is nothing more than doing the proper procedure to keep your plant protected against the elements.

Add plant food

Use high-quality fertilizer when you transplant them so you don’t need to worry about it later.

Pansies appreciate some 14-14-14 NPK plant food. Mix it in with the soil or use as directed.

Get a slow-release pellet so it can distribute slowly over time and make it to the winter. If you use a traditional fast release plant food (such as liquid mixtures), use it regularly for optimal growth.

Deadhead pansies when the time is right

Pansies will do their thing and be pretty all spring to autumn.

After they bloom, prune off the spent flowers/blooms before winter rolls around.

Again, this is to ensure that the plant stops wasting energy on these flowers and focuses all of its strength on building powerful roots to sustain the cold.

You can cut back and deadhead the top 2” of any spent blooms in the fall, or whenever you anticipate the cold to becoming.

When winter seems to be here, stop deadheading them and leave them be. They’ll stop growing anyway so it doesn’t matter because they’re dormant.

At this point, no energy is being used to grow anything- roots, stems, or flowers.

Know the cold tolerance

Pansies can withstand a temperature as low as 20F, but around the 25F mark is when they’ll enter dormancy.

When this temperature becomes the norm (late fall to early winter), you can stop all other activities like deadheading, plant food, and excess watering.

When your plant enters dormancy, it rests and “sleeps” until spring.

If you’re in a higher zone (zone 8 or higher), your pansy is likely not going to survive the winter unless you have a cold-hardy variant.

But for those in lower zones, there are some things you can do to help them stay warm in cold weather.

Mulch your pansies

The easiest way to keep your plants warm over the winter is to add a thick layer of mulch on top of the soil level.

This acts like a blanket over the root system to keep it warm and reduce moisture from entering.

But don’t use it the wrong way- if you water first then add mulch, it covers it up and traps the water underneath!

Pansies appreciate some water in the winter, but nothing that’ll drown the root system. Use straw mulch and add an even layer on top.

Don’t let it touch the stem because it can lead to pests, rot, and fungus.

Keep the mulch neat and tidy in a circle around the primary stems and layer it so that no slopes are present.

This helps prevent the water from pooling in a specific area. Remove the mulch when the temps pick up again in the spring.

Watering during winter

Pansies are one of the few ornamental plants that appreciate some water over the winter.

Unlike winterberry holly and fuchsias, pansies will utilize the water to produce those gorgeous early springtime flowers.

Keep your plants watered so they can bloom in the spring. Keep the top 1” of soil wet after the soil has dried out. Usually, the rain or snow will help keep them hydrated.

But if neither comes, you’ll have to get out there and give them a little TLC.

One thing to keep in mind is that you should water them before a hard freeze comes around. This will give them plenty of water to drink before the root system freezes up.

At this point, they can suck up any moisture from the soil anymore.

So keep watch on your local weather forecast and know what to expect.

Typically, a lack of water doesn’t kill the plant. You can still water them after a period of freezing cold temps.

When should I put out my winter pansies?

Winter pansies, when planted properly, can be put back outside in the early spring.

If you moved them indoors using a plant container, you can slowly bring them outside and acclimate them to the temperatures, sunlight, and humidity.

Start with an area that has partial shade and gradually allow your pansy to get more sunlight each day until it’s getting full sun.

Consider using a protected or sheltered area that’s free from winds, drafts, rain, and create a microclimate.

Can you winter pansies in containers?

It’s possible to overwinter pansies in plant containers or beds.

Just be sure to use well-draining soil so the water doesn’t pool when you water them.

Use a premium or professional potting mix and avoid cheap, generic mixes unless you’re feeling risky.

Pansies will do fine in the winter when grown in pots provided that you use good soil, elevate the pansy, and let it establish firm roots.

These plants are excellent for containers that are 12” or less in diameter.

Use a south-facing patio throughout the spring and fall for the best results. Pansies will survive the winter in pots if you ensure the proper conditions.

Further reading

Here are some other references you may find useful:

• How to Grow Perfect Pansies That Will Fill Your Garden With Color – GH
• Success with Pansies in the Winter Landscape – UGA

Now you’re ready for the winter!

You now have all the knowledge you need to care for pansies over the cold season.

Take care of them and they’ll be back to greet you in the spring with their gorgeous flowers.

Pansies are a relatively easy plant to care for and can add some color to your garden before any other plant does.

What do you think? What will you be doing to keep them warm over the winter?

Let us know in the comments section below.

The post Winter Care for Pansies (Complete Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.