There are many types of them available on the market, but the most common one has that signature lime green with pink staining on the large leaves.

They DO require extra care compared to other houseplants, but it’s nothing even a newbie can’t do!

With patience and a dedication to learning about Begonia x rex-cultorum, you can make them thrive indoors.

Toxicity warning!

Rex begonias are toxic to dogs, cats, and sensitive individuals.

The plant contains insoluble calcium oxalate, which is found all over the plant, but especially in the leaves, stems, rhizomes, and roots.

Contact or ingestion can cause vomiting, salivation, or other adverse effects. Ensure that people and pets can’t come into contact with it.

Wear gloves and proper protective gear when handling.

Always wash your hands thoroughly after contact, or any other object or body part that touches it. It can also cause skin irritation.

Quick care guide: Rex begonia

What’s rex begonia?

This pretty herbaceous hybrid is a common plant that’s grown indoors.

It’s a hardy perennial that’s suited for outdoor growth only in zones 10-12. It can be grown as an annual if you’re outside of that zone.

If you want to propagate it as a perennial though, and you’re not in zones 10-12, then you’ll have to shelter it inside. But you knew that, right?

They’re known for their showy, large leaves. The blooms? Not so much. They’re tiny and most gardeners will cut them off to focus the energy on the leaves.

Rex begonias aren’t the same as other rhizomatous begonias because they have larger leaves with different husbandry.

Most of these plants have rounded, dense, teardrop leaves. They can get up to 7” wide depending on care, species, and hybrids.

They can also have long, skinnier leaves too. The leaves are metallic with silver coloration with a green, gray, or pastel hue.

The leaves are puckered with veins. There are splotches with contrasting leaf margins. There are dozens of patterns available, but the most common colors include taupe, cream, purple, pink, lavender, red, or gray.

There are over 500 different identified cultivars of rex begonia!

Types of rex begonia

There are many types of rexes to choose from. This can be the hardest part of the entire process!

But limit it to what grows in your zone, then go by color. This will narrow it down. Many hybrids look very similar to each other.

But if you don’t want to do the deep dive, check out these popular cultivars:

• Rex Tango (metallic purple foliage with silver edges, stronger leaf coloration)
• Spitfire (pink leaves with silver/green edges, 8″ tall and wide)
• Tornado (exotic, dark green leaves with silver, copper, purple)
• Yamileth (green/black leaves, silver edges)
• Ballet (silver-green leaves, mid-green edges, 8″ tall)
• Rumba (8″ tall, greenish leaves, silver variegation)
• Salsa (silver leaves with variegated green/burgundy)
• Silver Limbo (small, compact, metallic silver, purple, 5″ tall)
• Flamenco (silver green, green veins, 8″ tall)

Propagation

Rex begonia can be propagated in multiple ways. Some are easier than others. See which one works for you.

From seed

Starting from seed is difficult and takes a long time. I would suggest skipping over this if possible, unless you like a challenge.

What makes starting from seed so difficult?

The plants are hybrid, so that means that plants that germinate from saved seeds won’t grow true.

They also are extremely hard to plant because they’re tiny. Plus, they’re hard to germinate in the first place. For these reasons, you should avoid starting from seed. There are easier ways.

From cuttings

If you want to do it from cuttings, you should know that it’ll take a lot of time to do so.

You’ll need consistent effort to propagate rex begonias from leaves, but it’s possible.

This is why starting from rhizomes is the easiest recommended method. But if you’re looking for a project, perhaps this will tickle your fancy.

Propagating from leaf cuttings is often the ideal way to do it if you want to grow more of a specific cultivar or expand your species collection.

When you share cuttings, you can get different species in your garden.

To start from cuttings, snip off a leaf at the base of the stem, then remove the stem itself. Make 5 small 0.25” cuts through the main veins on the underside of the leaf.

Prep a small, shallow pot filled with high-quality soil. Pin the leaf on the surface using propagation pins. You can also DIY it and use a floss stick if you have one.

Mist the surface of the leaf. Put it somewhere warm with high humidity.

Use a plastic bag or humidity dome to preserve it. Mist it daily to keep it moist. After 6-8 weeks, you should have small plants coming out from the leaf cuts.

Move them into individual pots by gently uprooting them from the soil. It’s probably easier to wet them first so they can dislodge easily.

Repot when they’re about 3 inches tall so they have built some strong root systems.

From rhizomes

Rex begonia can be grown from rhizome cuttings. This is preferred over starting from seed because it saves time, energy, and heartbreak.

You can buy small rhizome cuttings online or get some from a friend. Check your online local groups. The rhizome must be taken from fully grown specimens.

The rhizome should have its roots and foliage already attached. You just need to use a sterilized knife to slice a piece from one end of the rhizome.

Ensure that it has no leaves, if it does, cut them off. Let it sit in a shady area for a few hours to dry out.

Get a small potter or use a seed starter kit. Fill it with a high-quality, moist, potting mix. Put the rhizome on top, then press it so the root side is below the soil line.

The top part should remain above. Put the plant in a humid area with bright, dappled sunlight.

Spritz regularly with a spray bottle. Keep it moist, but never wet. The rhizome will start growing new roots and leaves within 2-3 weeks.

Put a plastic bag over the pot. This helps keep the moisture in. Keep it at room temperature. The ideal time to root rhizomes is between late spring to summer.

This gives them time to grow before the winter, when they stop growing. They’ll have some meat on the bone, to say the least.

When they get large enough, it’s time to repot! Repot to a larger pot by tipping the plant from the potter. Brush the debris off.

Cut the leaves/roots off by removing the entire rhizome section. Repot using the same mix with the same shallow pots you’d use for other older plants. They’ll acclimate and then start growing within 2 weeks.

From transplants

When cuttings or seeds aren’t your thing, go to the nursery to buy a new plant!

This is by far the quickest method, but it’s the most expensive. You’re paying a premium to get a head start on a germinated rex begonia.

Get your container ready by finding one of the same size. Prep it with high-quality soil.

Scoop out enough soil so you can place the rhizome halfway above the soil. Firm the soil. Water gently establishes water pathways. It should drain quickly.

How to care for rex begonia

This section covers general care for rex begonia plants. You don’t need special skills to grow them. You just need to know some basics.

Hardiness zone

Rex begonias thrive in USDA hardiness zones 10-12. But this only matters for the great outdoors, not inside the house.

You can easily grow rex begonia as a houseplant even in the lower zones if conditions are good inside your house.

Many gardens in the community will grow these guys as houseplants that spend all year inside, except for the summertime when they’ll get some natural sunlight outside.

If you want the beauty of it outside, you can grow it as an annual.

But then you’ll need to be within zones 10-12. It can also be hard to provide the right amount of humidity, temperature, and watering to keep the plant thriving.

They’re also finicky about their light source. But you’ll find that the color they reward you with is worth it.

Soil

Providing a suitable substrate is the most important step in your plant’s success. Rex begonia requires a porous, peat-based medium.

Go to your local garden center in search of an African violet mix. This is suitable for rexes.

If you can’t find it, you can use a regular potting mix. Just mix it with perlite or compost to help improve the drainage.

Soil pH

Rex begonias should have a peat-based potting mix with a pH of 5.7-6.4.

They have a very fine root system that requires quick-draining soil with high-quality peat-based substrate. They like acidic soils.

Spacing

Rex begonias don’t like to crowd. They can get up to 24” wide, so provide ample spacing between plants. You should only plant one per container.

If garden sowing, provide 36” for a buffer zone. You can plant multiple if they’re not in pots.

Depth

Plant seeds on the soil surface. For rhizome-based specimens, plant the top half above the soil line. For rhizome-less ones, place the crown even with the soil line.

Sunlight

These plants will need adequate sunlight. This is one of the things that makes it difficult to grow rex begonia indoors.

They need a lot of light, but they don’t want direct light. You need to find a spot that has dappled sunlight. It should be bright, but never direct.

Use filtered or dappled light or use a grow light. If you put the plant near a sunny window, rotate the pots weekly by a quarter so it gets light equally.

If your plant grows lopsided, this is why. They can handle full or partial shade if you grow the outside. But inside, you need to give them ample light.

When transferring outside, they need some time to harden off. Give them a week of increasing light exposure.

Temperature

Rex begonias thrive in daytime temperatures around 70F and 60F by night. This will encourage your plant to grow nice and big.

During the warmer summer, you can put your rex outside. This gives them some “real” exposure to the environment, which can only be good for hardening them off! Ensure that the temperature remains above 60F at all times.

You can leave it outside overnight if the temperature is stable.

Bring them back indoors when temperatures start to hover around 60F at night or predicated cooler weather. Avoid putting it outside when it’s too hot, this can burn the plant. The low-temperature tolerance is 60F.

The high tolerance is 80F. Keep it between those two and you’re good to go.

Humidity

Keep the humidity at 50% or higher. If you notice that the leaves have yellow or brown edges, you need to humidify the environment.

You can raise it by placing your plant in the kitchen or bathroom. Or you can just put a saucer of water nearby. This should be enough to raise the humidity.

Never mist your plants directly. It can lead to mildew.

Watering

Water can help lower the temperature and increase the humidity, other than being a necessary ingredient for all plants.

Rex begonias need consistent moisture.

Water regularly, but don’t overwater. The soil should be slightly, but evenly moist. Let it dry before watering again. Don’t let it go dry or it’ll wither.

But never over water. If you notice root rot or yellow foliage, this is a sign of overwatering. This is why soil must be well-draining. Water evenly and deeply.

Never water the leaves. Only the base. Use a watering can to do it. The top 1-2” of soil should be moist, but never wet. Use a moisture meter for accuracy.

Use filtered water to avoid salt deposits or if you have hard water. Place a large saucer under the pot to help collect runoff. It also keeps the humidity up.

Plant food

Provide a balanced plant liquid fertilizer.

Use a 10-10-10 NPK ratio. Rex begonias will benefit from plant food during the spring to summer when it’s growing.

The plant should be watered before fertilizing. Avoid watering post-fertilizing because you may wash it off.

Stop fertilizing in the winter because it’ll go dormant. Use fertilizer made for houseplants only.

Growing outside

Rex begonias can be grown outside as a herbaceous perennial if you’re in USDA hardiness zones 10-12.

If you’re not in this tight zone, you should only plant it inside as a houseplant.

If planting outside, the conditions need to be right. The temperature should be stable with enough spacing.

Growing in containers

You can easily grow rex begonia in a container. These plants are rhizomatous, which means you can use a shallow container with good drainage.

The shallow container lets the soil drain water quickly. The pot should be larger than the root ball.

It does like to be rootbound, but when they start spilling over, it’s time to replant into a larger container.

Pruning

Pruning regularly is good for rex begonia because it keeps them tidy, colorful, and big. Removing leaves that are spent from the plant or debris from the soil is good practice.

This helps keep pests or pathogens off your plant. If you’re putting it outside in the warmer months, this is especially important because bugs are active during this time.

Check for pests before you bring them back inside.

Pruning is only necessary if you’re growing upright varieties of rex begonia.

Cut off the stems at the crown when the leaves are showing brown tips. Prune a few stems from the leaves to help them tidy. The tips do NOT need to be pinched. If you do, it’ll encourage branching.

Repotting

You’ll regularly want to check the rhizomes on the edges of the pot.

If the rhizomes are too wide, snip some of the rotted sections so you can propagate more plants. See the rhizome propagation section above.

Repotting will help keep the plant growing if the roots are too close together. They need to be swapped to a larger pot as they get bigger.

They’ll benefit especially when the stems are so close to the edges of the plant. This can cause the water drainage to be blocked. Choose a pot that’s 1-2 sizes bigger than the previous one.

Overwintering

Wintering Rex begonias is easy. Just bring them indoors.

Provide adequate humidity by using a container of water or putting it near a moist area. Avoid placing plants near drafts or direct sunlight. Stop fertilizing. Reduce watering.

Pests

There are quite a few pests that can get into your plant, especially during the summer months where there are a lot of them.

Calcium oxalates in the leaves and rhizomes generally repel wildlife like deer or rabbits, but they don’t do anything for common pests.

Here are some of the most common rex begonia bugs you’ll find:

Spider mites

Spider mites are tiny, microscopic bugs that pierce holes in the leaves to extract the precious water.

If there are too many of them, they can do serious damage to your plant. They’re tiny mites that feed on foliage.

They leave behind yellow dots on the surfaces. If you notice leaves wilting or dropping, it can be spider mites.

Use insecticidal soap to get rid of them. Be sure that there is enough humidity.

Mealybugs

These bugs will leave behind honeydew that turns into a sooty black mold.

If you see twisted leaves, look for eggs or visible adults. They can be removed with alcohol-dipped cotton buds. These guys will pierce the leaves of your plant, which can cause hydration problems.

Other pests include thrips, scale, snails, etc. Your basic garden pests. Reduce watering, clip spent leaves, and regularly prune your plant to help keep bugs off.

Diseases

There are a few common issues that rex begonias can get.

But if you keep humidity about 50% with well-draining soil, you should be good. Make sure there’s no water blockage, as this is a common way these plants get sick. Here are some common pathogens and how to get rid of them:

Bacterial leaf spot

This leaf spot creates lesions that look like they’re soaked with water.

The leaves will drop, but because the bacteria is inside the leaves, the dropped ones are dangerous. The bacterium can move inside the plant.

It’s especially common when temperatures are sustained over 80F. Be sure to avoid watering the leaves when you water. Ensure that the soil drains well. Keep humidity stable.

If you see leaf spot damage, you may need to dump the plant and then sanitize everything. Use a fungicide if you want to try to get rid of it. It’s much easier to start from a new plant though. So it’s up to you.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is very common among house plants such as calla lilies or butterwort. These fungi thrive in humid conditions, which is why you need to keep temperatures/humidity stable. Use a cotton bud soaked in alcohol to wipe the leaves.

Root rot

Root rot is another common pathogen that’s caused by roots standing in stagnant water.

If the soil poorly drains, it’s a contributing factor to root rot. It’s drowning the root system. This is why you never overwater.

This is why you use well-draining soil. Do you see a pattern yet?

Avoid overwatering. If the soil is soggy or the leaves are turning pale, it can be a sign that root rot is taking place.

Wilting foliage is another symptom. A smelly odor is another sign. Isolate rhizomes and remove damaged roots. If you plan to replant, sterilize everything first.

Other issues you may come across include leaf spot, botrytis, southern blight, crown rot, anthracnose, cerscopora, and milew.

Companion plants

There are plenty of companions to pair rex begonia with, but you should never put them in the same pot!

They’ll compete for nutrients in the soil, so be sure to keep them separate.

Pair them with other large, single-shade leaves like pothos or silver swords. Boston ferns, parlor palms, are also excellent choices.

Some other choices include the following:

• Coleus
• Impatiens
• Black Mondo Grass
• Torenia
• Boston Fern
• Silver Nickel Vine
• Caladium
• Persian Shields
• Fiber Optic Grass
• ‘Brigadoon’ St. John’s wort
• ‘Persian Chocolate’ moneywort
• Yellow corydalis

Don’t plant with

You can pretty much pair your rex begonia with anything. Just don’t put them in the same pot. If you’re growing it outside, provide plenty of space between the begonia and other plants.

Best uses

Rex begonia can be used as a decorative piece. They’re commonly placed on windowsills, patios, or decks.

They can be used throughout the season in the summer, then again in the winter indoors.

They can be used in hanging baskets or even in the bathroom! These guys can be put anywhere that needs a bit of color.

Double that for bathrooms or rooms with high humidity. If you need to add a splash of color, rex begonia has your back.

While they can be stubborn, they just need the RIGHT degree of TLC.

Enjoy your rex begonia

Now that you know the basics of how to grow and care for rex begonia, go for it! These plants are rewarding, even if they’re slightly temperamental with their temperature requirements.

They can be presented on your porch for a nice splash of color. Or just put on your coffee table for a conversation piece.

How do you plan to use yours?

Further reading

Check out these other references you may find useful:

• Rex Begonia – UFL
• Rex Begonia | Home and Garden Education Center – UOC

The post How to Grow Rex Begonia (Easy Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

This blooming perennial grows from rhizomes, which makes it extremely easy to grow.

It’s commonly used for container planting, borders, or indoor houseplants!

Gardeners often grow calla lilies because of their gorgeous color availability.

Let’s dive in and learn how to grow and care for callas.

Quick care guide: Calla lilies

Toxicity warning

Calla lilies are known to contain calcium oxalate, which can cause burning or swelling when consumed.

Never handle it without protection and always wash your hands thoroughly after contact (or any other body part that touches it).

Keep pets and people away from calla lilies to prevent adverse reactions.

Types of calla lilies

There are many varieties of this plant.

Choose according to your hardiness zone, climate, and preferences.

Here are some of the most popular types of calla lilies:

• Zantedeschia aethiopica (Common white calla lily, 4 feet tall, blooms well)
• Edge of Night (30 inches tall, 3 black lines)
• Zantedeschia elliottiana (g=Golden calla, 3 feet,  yellow lily flowers)
• Purple Sensation (Purple lily, 18 inches tall, 5 inch spathes, pink-purple)
• Zantedeschia rehmannii (Red or pink calla lily, 1.5 feet tall, pink spathes 3 to 4 inches in diameter)
• Zantedeschia Picasso (Purple, pink, white, bi-colored flower)
• Captain Safari lily (24 inches tall, orange flowers, gold with arching blue foliage)

How to propagate calla lilies

In zones 8-11, callas are hardy so they can be divided and then replanted in the fall. The rhizomes can be cut in half and then planted as described later in this guide.

Starting from seed is also possible. Soak the seeds for 24 hours then sow them 0.5 inches deep in a damp seed starter.

Keep the ambient temperatures warm, at least above 68F.

Germination time varies depending on the temperature, but you should expect them to sprout in one week, but may take up to 3 months to do so. Seedlings will need at least 2 years to bloom.

When to plant

Calla lilies are usually planted in the spring after all frost has passed. The soil needs to be warm enough so the rhizome can sustain itself. If it’s still cold, the rhizome won’t root.

The ideal time to plant depends on whether you’re growing them in the north or south. In most zones (zone 8 or higher), they’ll be hardy right away in the garden.

Plant 30 days before the last average frost. In lower zones, plant callas in the springtime after all frost has opposed.

Soil temperatures should be at least 65F or higher. If you have a short season, start the rhizomes in containers indoors first. Give them 30 days before you move them to the garden.

It’s possible to force calla hybrids for a winter bloom. Give them 3 months for them to flower. Grow them in a container, but plan ahead.

How to grow calla lilies

Calla lilies are extremely easy to grow. They’re a perfect beginner plant because they don’t require too much work to make them flourish.

These lilies only ask that you choose the right location when planting them so they get the proper sunlight requirements and the right soil type. Those are the two most important things to consider when planting calla lilies.

How to care for calla lilies

Place the rhizomes of Z. aethiopica 4 inches deep. Space them 12 inches apart. You can get away with half the spacing, but you may encourage competition between the plants.

For other hybrids, plant the rhizomes just 2 inches deep. Space 18 inches apart. The rhizome’s eyes should be facing towards the soil surface. Gently cover with loose, fertile soil.

Hardiness zone

Calla lilies do well in USDA hardiness zones 7-11. For warmer zones, you can keep them in partial shade with no mulch. For cooler zones, keep them in full sun with regular mulching during the wintertime.

This will help insulate the plant. Colorful callas will bloom in the late spring to early summer. Zones 8-11 can be grown without mulch. Zone 7 needs to be mulched.

When planted after the last spring frost, you can expect flowers in the summer.

Soil type

Calla lilies require well-draining, loose soil. The soil should always be damp. You should never let it completely dry out between watering. The callas will grow as border plants or in the eye of gardens up to 12 inches of water.

Soil pH

Callas will flourish in slightly acidic soils

For colorful hybrids, ensure that the soil is loose enough for the roots to expand and be fertile with nutrients.

They can also do well in full sun in northern zones, but the sun needs to be limited to morning and afternoon shade in southern zones. Keep their pH slightly acidic between 5.5-6.5.

Use soil amendments to lower the pH or raise it.

Plant depth

Plant calla lilies about 4 inches deep. They require more soil depth than other plants. This will help them root and protect the rhizome from sudden temperature changes.

The soil is insulated from temperature swings.

Spacing

Space each plant about 12 inches apart.

Don’t plant them too close or else they’ll compete for nutrients. You can put them closer if you want, but no less than 6” apart.

For hybrids, space them at least 18 inches apart. Give them adequate spacing or else they’ll grow smaller.

Watering

The area should be watered well. Calla lilies enjoy being moist, but you should never overwater. They hate wet feet. Use your finger to feel the top inch of soil. If it’s near dry, go ahead and water.

For hybrids, water them less than non-hybrid strains.

Callas enjoy damp to wet soil, such as those found at the edges of ponds. The soil should never be completely dry. Bright hybrids should be moist, but never soggy.

For container plants, allow the soil to slowly dry once the foliage dies back into dormancy. Use a soil moisture meter so you know when to water.

Fertilizing

Calla lilies will benefit from a monthly dose of liquid fertilizer during the growing season. Use half the dosage at first if you get any adverse reactions from your callas.

If they’re good, then use the full dosage. Only use fertilizer during the summertime. Taper off during the fall to the winter.

Calla lilies don’t actively produce flowers in the winter, so they don’t need plant food. Feed calla rhizomes with an inorganic bulb fertilizer with an NPK of 3-5-3. Use as directed.

Fertilizers should be scattered over the soil beneath the rhizomes when they’re planted. Later on, apply plant food to the surface in the fall when they’ve finished blooming.

Weeding

Keep weeds out of the same plant bed as your lilies. They’ll outcompete the callas for nutrients, which will lead to drooping or failed blooms.

You can use some mulch to help keep the weeds out. It also helps insulate the rhizome from temperature swings.

Sunlight

Calla lilies prefer to be planted in full sun for proper blooming.

If you’re in a warmer zone, you can plant in partial shade. This will prevent scorching. If you’re growing indoors, place them near a sunny window so they get the energy they need to produce those flowers.

Other things to note

As I mentioned earlier, calla lilies don’t need much care. This is why they’re a popular choice for those who want a gorgeous plant that’s easy to care for.

Other than regularly watering them when they go near dry and fertilize often.

Container growing

Calla lilies can be grown in containers easily. Hybrid callas fare well in planters. For container planting, choose hybrid varieties.

Place them outside in the summer and indoors in the winter. They can be spaced closer when potted in containers compared to garden planting. An 8 inch potter can hold 2-3 smaller callas or 1 larger one. A 12 inch pot can hold 3 larger rhizomes.

Cover with 2 inches of soil. Use fertilizer regularly. Container plants will need more water than plants sown in the soil. You can expect blooms for at least 45 days.

Winter dormancy

Calla lilies require a dormancy period in the winter to recharge. Think of it as a time for them to rest and regenerate for the next season.

If they don’t get time to rest, they may not produce the same volume of blooms next season. You can tell when they enter dormancy because they stop producing flowers.

Refrain from adding plant food or watering. The plant needs to die back during this time. It’s normal.

Don’t be scared. But there are some steps you need to take to protect your lily during the wintertime or else they’ll suffer.

Do NOT leave them outside in the cold during this time. For container grown calla lilies, cease watering then move the pot to a shaded place once the foliage has faded.

Continue watering within 3 months when temperatures get warm again. Plants will not bloom if they’re not given a period of dormancy.

How to winterize

Calla lilies will need to be dug up in the fall. The rhizomes should be removed from the soil through gentle uprooting after the first frost. Use a spade to dig it up, carefully.

Don’t cut the rhizome or the roots. Clean off any debris or soil that’s stuck to the rhizome. When you’ve removed the debris, store the calla lilies in some organic peat moss.

Keep them somewhere dry, cool, and dark. Keep them there throughout the cold season until warmer temperatures return in the spring.

You can keep them indoors. When the soil is warm again, bring them back outside in the spring. This is when you should propagate the calla lilies. Do it when they’re lifted or during the winter dormancy period.

If you live in a lower hardiness zone, you’ll need to keep their rhizomes dormant inside your house over the winter. Hybrids can’t stay outside during the winter.

They need to be brought inside. For Z. aethiopica, it doesn’t go dormant. So keep the entire plant inside as a houseplant during the winter time.

Hybrids

Bring calla lilies inside when the plant has died back on its own. Then dig up the rhizomes.

Bring the plant indoors before your first frost in the fall. Put it in a bright, cool location.

Temperatures should be between 55-65F for optimal production.

Non-hybrids

To protect them from cold damage, rhizomes need to be dug up and then stored in the winter. When the plant has died back, cut it off 2-3 inches from the soil.

Dig up the rhizomes. Clean off debris or dirt. Then put them in a dry, dark location for a couple weeks. Store them in a cardboard box with barely damp soil.

Use peat moss or vermiculite. Store at 60F. Check it a few times during the winter to ensure that it’s not too wet or else it can lead to shriveling.

Pruning

Callas can become leggy during the summertime, especially if grown in the shade. You’ll need to cut back the foliage in the fall if you plan to take it inside for dormancy.

For Z. aethiopica, prune it back completely. For hybrids, they don’t require pruning unless you’re removing damaged foliage. Deadhead the faded foliage to keep them blooming or when they go dormant.

Companion plants

Some common plants that can be paired with calla lilies include:

• Catmint
• Lavender
• Hostas
• Cosmos
• Geraniums
• Marigolds
• Creeping jennies
• Roses
• Zinnias
• Plantain lilies
• Dahlia
• Daylilies
• Crane’s bill
• Dianthus

There are tons of partner plants that go well with callas. Combine various colors that are complementary for a gorgeous color flow.

Don’t plant with

Calla lilies shouldn’t be planted with plants that have opposing requirements or within the same genus. They’ll compete for nutrients.

Pests

Calla lilies don’t have pest issues, but some rodents are known to chew on the plant. Squirrels, voles, or deer are known to be an issue pest.

But they can be fenced off from your callas to protect them.

Other than rodents, you may encounter caterpillars, scales, mealybugs, beetles, spider mites, and other common insects.

They can be ridden using an insecticide. Use as directed.

Diseases

Calla lilies are prone to Pythium rot, powdery mildew, southern blight, botrytis, rust, leaf spot, root rot, soft rot, rhizome rot, and other issues usually cause by high humidity.

It’s important to allow proper evaporation by regularly pruning. Use a well draining soil to help remove excess water.

Enjoy your calla lilies!

Calla lilies are one of the easiest perennials to care for if you have damp soil.

They go well with tons of other plants and pair well with shorter grasses. Perfect for borders or edges, these lilies stand out from the crowd.

What color do you plan to grow? Let me know in the comments!

The post How to Grow Calla Lilies (Beginner’s Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

Specifically, their honeydew secretions that they deposit during their infestation.

Since spider plants are so easily accessible for crawling insects, it’s no surprise that it’s prone to some common insects.

Sticky spider plant leaves are a telltale sign of scale.

These insects will infest the foliage and then deposit a white, sticky substance all over it. Scales are invisible to the naked eye because of their tiny size.

Insects that make spider plants sticky

The following bugs are known culprits of leaving sticky honeydew behind. See if you can ID the insect before taking action to stop them.

Scale

There are many different types of scale. But the signature sign of an infestation is the brown patches that are on the leaves of spider plants.

When they form their colonies, there’s a white cotton that’ll forms as well. These are extremely sticky to the touch.

You’ll often find other secondary bugs on there as well that are drawn to the sugary honeydew deposits left by the primary insects. Gross.

Mealybugs

Cottony white is usually due to mealybugs. Cottony brown is scale. Note the difference.

But it’s not just this that causes the sticky leaves on spider plants. It’s actually due to a substance called honeydew.

This is what the bugs leave behind and it turns dark over time. It’s a tarry substance that’s sweet, so it sticks to dirt and brings in ants or spider mites.

When you see a combo of insects on the leaves of your plant, it’s pretty disturbing.

So basically, the mealybugs or scale deposit the honeydew, which then brings in other secondary insects.

Other insects

Other insects include whiteflies, fungus gnats, aphids, and borers. The following techniques will help you get rid of them.

Note that the sticky leaves on your spider plant usually stem from scale or mealy bugs. Sap sucking insects generally don’t care about serious harm, but the ones that deposit sticky residue do.

It can stifle photosynthesis because it blocks your plant from getting sunlight through the foliage. That’s why you need to focus on them first.

They can also bore holes or chew leaves, resulting in jagged or yellowing leaves from the damage.

A lot of insects are attracted to the warm soil and humid conditions of spider plants.

Get rid of sticky leaves on spider plant

To get rid of the sticky leaves on your spider plant, you’ll need to focus on the insects.

Once the bugs are gone, the stickiness will be gone. Start with the following:

Alcohol

Get a cotton swab and soak it in some rubbing alcohol. Then slowly swab the leaves with it. This will kill the insect nests without harming your spider plant.

This will slowly get rid of the insects that cause sticky leaves. You may want to use a scraper tool to fully scrape off the remaining stickiness.

Do it gently and stop if you notice that your plant leaves are changing colors. Colonies will often be gone quickly if you stick to a schedule.

Manual removal

When it’s time to get to work, put on some gloves because we’re going old school. Get a small bowl of soapy water. Then place it near the plant.

Gently comb through your plant. Remove any sticky leaves you can find by pruning them off and then dropping them into the solution.

If you see any cottony substances, prune the entire leaf off. Bugs should be picked off and dunked.

This is a lot of work and very time-consuming, but if you do it daily, you’ll greatly diminish their population. Be careful when digging through the leaves. You may encounter other pests that can bite.

Sticky tape

You can place some sticky tape around the stem of the plant to prevent bugs from crawling up to the leaves. This obviously only works for crawling insects. But it’s easy to do.

Diatomaceous earth

Sprinkle some food-grade DE on the soil and the rim of the planter. Bugs with hard shells will be forced to walk over it, which will pierce their shell.

They’ll get dry over time from the micro incisions into their exoskeleton from the DE crystals. You only need a little bit in the soil and on the perimeter of the spider plant.

Don’t overdo it because it can harm your soil quality. DE is available as a food supplement. This is the one you want. Don’t get the pool grade one.

Neem oil

Neem oil is an essential oil concentrate that you can use to spray on your spider plant leaves.

Cover the entire plant, but wash off any excess oil that’s remaining on it. Apply in the early evening- never during peak hours. It’ll burn your plant because it builds a thin coat over the leaves.

It can lead to overheating. Use it once a week as directed. It’ll kill the insects and has a residual effect so it keeps them off. Be sure you get the bottom of the leaves too because this is where ladybugs nest.

Vinegar

Mix equal parts water and vinegar for a powerful, natural insecticide.

Spray it directly onto the sticky leaves to kill the eggs and bugs. Do it daily until the bugs are gone.

Stop if your plant reacts to it or dilute the mixture. This will kill bugs upon contact with pests.

Repot

Sometimes the insects will deposit eggs in the soil column. This makes it extremely difficult to get rid of them because they’re hiding under the substrate.

In this case, you need to repot the soil with fresh potting mix. Sterilize or switch the old planter.

Eggs can stick to the container sides as well. You can dip your spider plant roots to kill the bugs or eggs hiding in the roots before you replant with fresh soil.

Be careful you don’t cross-contaminate the old infested soil with the new soil because that’s going to ruin the entire point of it. If the eggs or larvae get into the fresh soil, then they’ll infest it too. So be as careful as possible.

Insecticidal soap

When it’s time to bring out the insecticides, be careful. Make sure that the soap is made for the insect on your spider plant.

This is exactly why you need to properly identify what’s eating your spider plant before you trigger happy spraying poison all over it.

Find an insecticide that’s organic or natural if possible. Use as directed. Only do this if everything else has failed you.

No more sticky leaves

Spider plants are pretty hardy to insects in general, but they may need your help once in a while. When you notice the fuzz on the leaves or the sticky honeydew, take action.

Use the methods outlined above to eliminate the insects so your spider plant can thrive. No more sticky leaves!

Spider plants will tolerate them for quite some time, but it’s waiting on you to babysit them for a bit until the infestation is gone.

The post Get Rid of Sticky Residue on Spider Plants (Save Them!) appeared first on Gardenisms.

And for good reason.

They’re gorgeous! These shrubs are huge and wide with plenty of blossoms, thus making them an excellent plant for void fill or just to really give your garden some colors. They can be blue, orange, pink, purple, or even lavender.

They do take quite some time to reach full size, so you may want to start with a transplant from your greenery if you’re impatient.

But even starting from seed is very rewarding as you can shape the plant however you want. Compact? Freeform? Your choice!

Let’s learn about how to grow and care for rhododendrons. I hope this care sheet helps you get a good grasp of the shrub.

Quick care guide: Rhododendrons

What’s a rhododendron?

It’s a woody flowering shrub that’s known for its large, pink blooms. These shrubs are extremely popular for their ease of care. Being part of the Ericaceae family, they’re similar to their cousins like the fern or huckleberry.

They require little work but reward you with plenty of those gorgeous purple-pink flowers. They come in a variety of sizes, colors, and shapes. They can even be grown in part shade.

With so many variants, they can handle a variety of climates, soil types, and even garden sizes. They can even be planted in containers!

Versatile. Easy to care for. And gorgeous.

Types of rhododendrons cultivars

There are so many different types of rhodies that you’ll be hard-pressed to find the “perfect” strain- if that even exists!

There’s no single one that works for everyone. Each cultivar has its pros/cons. Some are suitable for larger environments that provide plenty of plant cover. There are over 1000 species.

Others are compact that are suitable for container growing. It’s up to you to find what suits your needs. There’s literally a strain for every garden.

If you’re having trouble deciding on which type of rhododendron to get, think about where you’re planting it, the local temperature, your time/energy commitments, and the amount of space you have.

Here are some popular cultivars to get you started:

• America (full sun, 6 feet tall and wide, purple flowers)
• Elvira (bright red flowers)
• Ramapo (compact, woody, purple)
• Rosy Lights (pink, compact, small, cold hardy)
• Augfast (dwarf, compact, blue flowers, 3 feet tall, early bloomer)
• Top Banana (bright red buds)
• Janet Blair (pink flowers, 6 feet tall, drought hardy)
• Catawba (broadleaf, dark green foliage)
• Nancy Evans (4 feet tall, lots of flowers, yellow/pink hybrid flowers)
• Trinidad (cream and red edges)
• Nova Zembla (tolerant of temperature highs/lows, 5 feet height, lots of blossoms, orangish flowers)

How to propagate

Thankfully, Rhododendron is super easy to grow from seed, layering, or just buying one from the nursery.

This plant readily germinates from seed if you enjoy starting from scratch. Read over each propagation method and see which one suits your style.

If you want the most rewarding way, seed sowing is the only way to go. If you want a head start to enjoy the blooms, then go for a nursery transplant instead.

Starting from seed

This is the easiest way to get started.

Get a packet of rhododendron seeds online or at your local garden center. You need to make sure that you get the right species because hybrids can’t be grown from seed. So make sure that it’s not a hybrid rhododendron. Named cultivars also can’t be sown from seed.

The ideal time to sow is in January or February. They can get a head start for the season if there’s sufficient heat. Use a plant heat mat or a grow light to keep them warm. Start with 5” planters.

Get biodegradable ones if you want to save yourself from more work later on. Plastic holds heat poorly compared to terra cotta or organic materials. Just FYI.

Fill it with any generic potting mix. Use a water-retaining medium. If you want to get fancy, you can, but it’s not necessary because this is just the germination pot. You’ll be replanting your seedlings later on into the soil.

Each 5” pot can hold 2-3 seeds. Place them on the surface, but don’t cover them.

Water well using a spray bottle. It’s important to use distilled water only. Soak the water with continuous spraying until it’s nice and moist. The seeds will soak into the soil over time. There’s no need to pat them down.

At this point, just keep the soil moist. Avoid letting it dry out at any point or else you’ll kill the seeds. Temperatures that are high will halt germination. And it won’t germinate either.

Spray 2-3 times daily to keep it moist. You can use a humidity dome (or a plastic cover) to help trap the moisture so you don’t have to water as often.

Place the pots under grow lights or near a sunny window. They need at least 8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

The seeds will germinate in about 10-21 days. Germination time will vary. It depends on the local climate, temperature, watering conditions, sunlight, and cultivar too.

So be patient if you don’t see seedlings in 10 days.

After they germinate, continue the same care regimen. In 8 weeks or so, you should have at least 2 pairs of true leaves. When this happens, it’s time to harden them off by exposing them to the outside elements.

Only do this when the last frost has passed. If not, keep them indoors. Continue to keep them moist, and warm.

When the temperature remains around above 50F or so, it’s time to bring them out to their new home in your garden!

Bring them to your yard for a few hours daily. Put them in the sun for about 6-8 hours. This will get them used to the outside. Do this for 2 weeks or so.

Start with just minimal sunlight exposure. Then increase by an hour every day. Keep the soil moist at all times until you complete the transition.

They’re now ready to go into the yard! Uproot them gently and then sow them into the soil. Be sure to use high-quality soil that’s nutrient dense with moisture-retaining properties.

Starting from cuttings

Propagating from cuttings is the quickest way to get started if you want to grow hybrid rhododendrons. Start in the late summer or fall.

The cuttings should be taken at the heel in the early morning only. Use new cuttings that are still pliable. They should not be hardened. The softwood is less likely to rot after you cut them. If you cut the harder woods, they’ll be prone to rotting. They don’t root well either. So it’s a double negative.

The key to finding the right stem is that it should be younger and has multiple leaves. If it has flowers, that’s fine. Take the cut. Remove any flower buds or spent ones.

Keep only the top few leaves on the stem. Use a sharp, sterilized knife to cut the outer green shell on the bottom 0.5” of the stem. This will expose the interior so it’ll root easier. Use a rooting powder or gel if you wish.

Next, fill a pot with a 50/50 mix of vermiculite or perlite with peat moss to help it root. Peat moss is usually discouraged, but rhododendrons crave it for rooting. Water it until it’s wet. Place the cutting 0.5” deep into the soil and then cover it with a humidity dome.

Place the pot on a heat mat to keep it warm. Continue to keep it moist, but never wet. Spray it daily. Never let it go dry. Keep the temperature within 50-60F. New roots will form in about 6-8 weeks.

You can check to see if your stem has rooted by gently pulling on the stem. If it doesn’t give, then it’s done. If it comes out, check for rot before you reinsert it. Continue to wait for another week.

When it’s rooted, you can move it to your garden!

By layering

Layering is another method that works really well with rhododendrons. In the early fall or late summer, find a low-growing branch and use a sturdy wire to pin it to the soil. You’ll have to bend it to get it to sit.

The point is to keep it pinned into the soil using whatever you have. Keep the bent branch in the soil. Cut off any leaves in the section that’s pinned.

Water it and feed it as you do for the entirety of the plant. Layering basically makes the bent part grow into its own plant. It takes a long time for it to finally root (as in years). So if you want to do this, you’ll need patience. It also only works if you already have a rhododendron plant going in your garden

The roots can be checked the same way as checking a cutting. Give a tug to see if it gives. If not, it’s rooted. If it does, pin it back and let it be.

Once the roots have formed, clip the branch closest to the bush. Dig up the new plant. Clip it on both sides using pruners to release it. Then plant it on its own. It’ll need about 5” of depth, with 10” around. Plant it like a regular transplant.

By transplant

This is the prefeed method if you want to enjoy those blooms quicker. Just buy a good shrub from your local garden center then transplant it into your garden. Try to plant at the same depth as the pot it came in. Provide ample space around it and water it generously.

Use compost to help keep the soil well draining. Try to provide 5 times the width of the container.

The depth can be up to twice the original container depth. But don’t plant too deep because this can harm your shrub.

Don’t remove any of the debris that’s stuck on the roots either. They have beneficial bacteria. You can prune after you’ve planted and given it a few days to harden off.

How to grow

Rhododendrons are extremely easy to grow and tolerate a variety of conditions- everything from shade to full sun. I’ll try to get you a summary of the ideal conditions so you can get the most out of your plant.

They grow bigger with more blossoms and numerous flowers if they’re grown correctly. But it also depends on the cultivar type.

The following sections contain tips to maximize the flowers per annum.

Hardiness zone

This woody shrub is perfect for USDA hardiness zones 4-10. But even if you’re slightly outside the suggested hardiness zone range, you should be fine if you opt for a cultivar that’s less sensitive to warm or cooler temperatures.

You can also plant in shadier spots if your zone is too warm. Or you can use mulch or plant protection if it’s too cold.

Soil

Rhododendrons prefer soil that’s well-draining, moisture-retaining, and with plenty of nutrition.

They love humus, so consider supplementing some into your substrate. The soil can be clay, sandy, or loamy. They’re not picky as much as the pH.

Soil pH

This plant is quite picky when it comes to pH. Rhododendrons prefer acidic soil with pH values between 4-6. If the soil isn’t acidic, it will produce poor blossoms.

The soil can be amended with pH down to bring it to a more favorable range. The soil can be mixed with pine bark to help drop the pH. Or you can grow in a pot with primed soil.

Some compact hybrids can be grown in containers with the right soil. Use ericaceous soil/fertilizer.

The majority of gardeners will use sulfur-based soil supplements to help lower pH. Use a soil meter to test the acidity. It should be acidic, but never basic.

You’ll need to adjust the soil levels to get the most out of your plant. Results will vary depending on the soil type. Avoid using aluminum sulfate because it’s based on sodium, which doesn’t take well to rhododendrons. They hate salt in the soil.

Depth

For seeds, sow at the surface. For transplants, use the same depth as the original planter.

Spacing

Space each plant at least 5 feet apart. Bigger cultivars should be spaced up to 10 feet apart to reduce them fighting over nutrients. These guys can grow upwards of 30 feet tall and 30 feet wide. So give adequate space.

Temperature

Temperatures between 50-70F are a good range. When temperatures drop to the 40s, you’ll notice that the foliage will begin to droop.

They won’t curl until the temperatures drop to 32F. But even then, your shrub will be okay. They can handle temperatures as low as 10F as long as it’s not for extended periods.

On the other end, they can tolerate heat too. Temps as high as 90F will be fine. Some cultivars can tolerate heat, but most will prefer just warm and humid environments. 

Humidity

These shrubs don’t like wet feet. If the water pools and doesn’t drain, it can cause rot issues.

You should keep humidity moderate to high, but with plenty of space for water to evaporate.

This can be achieved by regularly pruning dense foliage, using a good-quality substrate, and not overwatering.

Watering

These plants can handle a lot of water, but even then, you shouldn’t go crazy with them. It’s possible to overwater rhodies. If you do it often, it can severely damage your plant.

But if you don’t want enough, the same goes both ways.

So find the happy medium and go for that. Use a soil moisture meter if you don’t know how much to water. You’ll want to keep it moist at all times, but never wet or fully dried out. If the soil doesn’t drain well, it can also lead to pooling water at the base.

Overall, rhodies need a lot more water than your typical garden plant. They’re native to the northwest, which rains a lot. These plants will need plenty of water when young.

Established plants will need less. So you can taper off as needed. Signs of not enough water are obviously no blossoms. If you don’t see buds forming on the leaves, browning leaves, or curled leaves, your shrub needs water.

During the spring and summer, never let the top 1” of soil get dry.

If the fall, start reducing the water volume. This will get it ready for the winter. Water less during this time. The soil should be moist before the cold season to help protect the roots.

This is the only time you can let the soil get dry. Then soak it up! This will prepare it for the first freeze within the next day or so. It needs that water to help protect the roots from the cold. Easy enough.

Fertilizing

Rhododendron requires a good amount of plant food to help encourage the strong growth of the branches and produce those pretty flowers.

Ideally, you should fertilize in May and stop in July. If you fertilize too late in the season, your Rhodie will produce new branches which will be harmed by the cold weather. Therefore, you only want it to feed during the spring or summer.

The fertilizer should be diluted and acidic. Look for an NPK of 14-7-7 or something high in nitrogen. It needs N to produce leaves. Work it gently into the base, but don’t go into the root system. It can build up and cause damage.

The soil around the plant should be replaced regularly and weeded too. pH fluctuations will cause the soil to become alkaline over time too. You’ll have to apply soil amendments to keep it slightly acidic. A soil test kit can solve all those problems.

Sunlight

If it’s too shady, your rhododendron will produce buds but they won’t break. This means no flowers.

You’ll need full sun for at least 8 hours daily to get those precious blossoms. If it’s hot in the summer, protection from that scorching is necessary.

Ideally, they should be placed somewhere with early morning sun, followed by afternoon shade. You can use filtered or dappled light for the afternoon by using artificial shade.

While they can grow in the shade, you’ll need full sun to get the blooms. If you’re in a warmer zone, you can plant it in partial shade or grow a cultivar that’s more drought-tolerant.

Wind

Rhododendrons are prone to toppling over from the wind.

They can also get severely damaged by strong gusts. They should be on the eastern side of the oaks or pines. This gets them protection from winds plus they get that morning sun with dappled shade, followed by the evening sun.

That’s the perfect combo to get them producing their signature blossoms. This plant prefers sloped surfaces because the water drains well and they get some wind protection.

Too much wind can break flowers, and buds, and even topple them. Leaf burn is also common from the wind.

Pruning

Rhododendrons require very little pruning. In fact, deadheading is completely optional.

If you’ve cared for other plants like hollyhock or oleander that require deadheading, you’ll be glad to know that you don’t do it for your shrub. Your plant will blossom and bloom without pruning.

If you want to prune, use sterilized pruners. Some people like to keep it shapely by pruning off stems. You can also remove spent flowers or branches that are damaged.

Remove the spent flowers in the summertime. There’s no reason to keep them on your plant because they just waste energy and attract pests. It’ll also help encourage larger blooms next season. Stop pruning in August onwards.

Pruning to keep it compact is key to making them look good. If you want, you can keep them tidy by doing a hard prune. Cut them back.

They won’t get harmed by it. It may even encourage more flowers. Rough-barked can handle more pruning than smooth-barked. Even potted shrubs can be pruned with no damage.

Mulching 

Mulching should only be done sparingly.

The reason is that they have shallow roots that can be damaged easily.

Heavily mulch can be used on days with temperature dips, but avoid letting it touch the stem. If it does, it can lead to rot. Only use shredded pine bark, straw, or leaves from oak.

Try to only use pine or oak products. 2-3 inches of mulch and extend it beyond the drop line. This should be good enough to mulch your shrubs. It helps retain moisture and also protects the fragile roots from temperature swings.

Other commonly asked questions

The following sections cover common questions readers send to us regarding rhodie care. If you have questions of your own, please be sure to post them in the comments.

Overwintering

Rhodies should be pruned in the late spring after flowering. Remove crossing or crowded branches and cut spent flowers. Supplement with mulch or plant covers if you expect prolonged cold. Otherwise, no other care is required if you’re in the right hardiness zones.

Seed collecting

You can collect the seeds by picking the seed pods right before they split.

Only harvest from wind or manually pollinated shrubs. Store the seeds in a zipper bag away from heat. The seed pods must be harvested before they split. These are the pods that protrude from the center of the blossoms.

Pinch them off by grasping them and snapping them off. The seed capsules must be harvested after time has passed following fertilization. If they’re not fertilized, then they’re not to be harvested yet.

Leaf drop

Over time, the woody shrub drops its leaves. This is normal. Older leaves will be shed during the spring and summer. In the winter, cooler temperatures may also cause the leaves to curl or drop.

When it warms back up, your shrub will uncurl those leaves.

If the temperatures are too frigid, then yes, you can expect the leaves to fall. They can handle temperatures as low as 20F. Around that point, the leaves will curl and then droop.

The shrub will be fine if the roots are protected. If it remains in the cold for an extended period, you’ll want to do more to shield it from the cold.

They say you can tell what temperature it is in your yard just by the leaf curl.

Yellow leaves aren’t a sign of temperature, but rather a lack of iron. Supplement with more fertilizer that has iron or just add some to the soil. This will help the leaves turn back to that lime green. It can also be a pH problem. Remember that they like acidic soils.

Buds not blooming?

Buds that form, but don’t bloom are usually due to some kind of watering problem. Shrubs that are under or over-watered will cause the buds to never bloom.

If they break or split but no flower comes out, check your watering regimen. Hot and cold fluctuations can also cause them to not bloom. Bark splitting is also a sign of temperature swings.

You can wrap the plant in burlap or mulch it to help keep it insulated from the temperature.

Can you grow rhodies indoors?

Rhodies are large shrubs that can’t be grown indoors. The only time they should be inside is during seed germination or during the winter (if potted). Otherwise, they need sunlight from your garden for 8 hours a day.

How about containers?

The compact varieties of rhododendrons can be planted in pots. The pot should be large enough to accommodate the roots. Thankfully the roots are quite shallow. The only problem is drainage.

You must use well-draining soil with multiple drainage holes in the pot. The pot should be large enough so that it does get rootbound. Otherwise, care is pretty much the same.

Note that potted plants require more frequent watering compared to soil-sown plants.

Companion plants

Rhodes can be paired with many different shrubs. Some of the most popular companion plants include the following:

• Mountain Laurel
• Japanese andromeda
• Astilbe
• Kalmia
• Pierris
• Viburnum
• Mahonia
• Ginkgo biloba
• Rhody Nyssa
• Alliums
• Blueberries
• Heathers
• Pines
• Oaks
• Wildflowers
• Hostas
• Conifers
• Holly
• Berberis koreana
• Pussy willows
• Bleeding hearts
• Clethra alnifolia
• Berberis thunbergii

Find shrubs that do well in light soil with acidic pH. Evergreen perennials that require full sun exposure will generally be suitable plantmates.

Don’t plant with

There are few plants you want to avoid planting with rhodies, such as walnut or other shrubs that aren’t good at nutrient absorption.

The reason is because rhodies are good at taking up all the nutrition in the soil which can outcompete other nearby shrubs or plants. The leaves also take a long time to break down too. So this can cover up nearby plants which blocks energy production.

Pests

These shrubs are pretty hardy against bugs and don’t suffer as much as their cousins (roses), but there are still a few bugs that you’ll need to watch out for.

Here’s a short list of common insects that you’ll find on rhododendrons:

• Rhododendron Borers
• Lace bugs
• Weevils (multiple types)
• Spider mites
• Sawflies
• Caterpillars
• Bark scale
• Aphids
• Worms

The majority of insects are caused by overwatering or overfeeding. You can control most of them by manual removal, organic insecticides, or using beneficial nematodes. Rodents, deer, or other creatures have been spotted nibbling too.

But established plants are resilient to pests.

Rhodies are very resilient towards pests, so you’ll have time to see what works for you. I suggest starting with manual removal as this can damage their numbers by a huge margin. Then move to insecticides if necessary.

Diseases

There are also a handful of issues you should be careful of that can infest your shrub:

Leaf spot, bud blast, root rot, Botrytis, phomopsis dieback, phytophthora dieback, petal blight, powdery mildew, etc. These are common but can be treated with regular pruning, removing of infested leaves or branches, and reducing watering.

You may need to use a copper fungicide to help eliminate rot problems.

Usage scenarios

These shrubs are excellent for plant cover with their huge, voluminous blooms. Use these shrubs to build a privacy wall, foundation plant, or plant color. They can also provide shade for shorter plants. Use them for plant borders, pots, etc.

They’re simple to grow and will produce flowers every season. If you want a plant that’ll cover the sides of your garden or void fill, this is it. They offer plenty of coverage with some cultivars going over 40′. That’s a wall of flowers indeed.

Further reading/references

Check out these resources for more info:

• Rhododendron – Home & Garden Information Center
• Rhododendron – Reddit
• Rhododendron – Wikipedia

Enjoy your rhodie

Rhododendrons are versatile shrubs that are excellent for newbies.

These colorful, large shrubs can be used for a variety of purposes. With their ease of care and amazing flowers, it’s no wonder why they’re favored amongst those in the hobby.

How will you use your shrub? Post your thoughts!

The post How to Grow Rhododendrons (Beginner’s Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

Introducing Spicy Globe Basil!

This herb can be both a decorative ornamental piece, or it can be used in salads, soups, pesto, and more.

It’s a versatile, easy to grow basil variety that’s perfect for beginner gardeners.

It can even be grown as a perennial, unlike some other basil strains. It’s similar to sweet basil, but grows in a bushy, compact plant.

Let’s learn about how to grow and care for Spicy Globe!

Quick care guide: Spicy Globe Basil

What’s spicy globe basil?

Spicy globe basil is a little different from traditional basil because of its pungent scent and spicy flavor. It also grows like a spherical globe, rather than the fanned-out leaves like regular basil.

You may even confuse it with cilantro like I always do.

It’s considered to be an annual ornamental. Some people grow it just for a cute little plant they can put as a decorative piece. If you don’t want to eat it, it still makes an excellent void fill plant.

You can even trim it to shape it as a hedge.

Whether you want to get an easy addition to your herb garden or some ornamental greens this is it. it’s edible, functional, and takes care of itself.

Spicy globe is a dwarf basil that can be grown anywhere- outside or indoors. In the dirt or pots. It’s perfect for beginners.

Is it spicy?

Spicy Globe is a spicier variety than other basil varieties. Commonly called Ocimum basilicum “Spicy Globe,” it’s different from boxwood or Genovese basil.

So if you plan to substitute it for Italian large leaves, you can use were leaves for a stronger taste. It should be used fresh. It has a bit of heat compared to Genovese basil or Italian large leaf basil. It also has a bit of zest over your traditional sweet basil.

There are over 60 varieties of basil, but it often gets “out flavored” by its cousins. Sweet basil is probably the most popular IMO.

Why grow it?

Why not? It’s a nice spicy little herb you can easily add to your collection if you’re in zones 4-12. If you make soups, salads, or sauces, it’s a no-brainer.

Easy to grow with plenty of flavors, Spicy Globe is an essential herb right up there with the rest of them.

Is it easy to grow for beginners?

Yes, it’s extremely easy to care for and requires little work.

Other than regular watering, some fertilizer, and pruning, you can commit less than 10 minutes per week to get the tastiest basil possible.

If you already have an herb garden, spicy globe basil is an excellent addition to it. It pairs well with other herbs too.

How to propagate spicy globe basil

Basil is very easy to start from seed. If you’re in a rush you can buy a pre-grown transplant at your local garden center. If not, then getting a packet of globe basil seeds is the simplest (and most rewarding) method to plant.

You can often find a pack for less than $3. Organic is a few cents more, but well worth it.

But keep in mind that if you’re going the organic route, you need to use organic soil, fertilizer, and everything else so you don’t waste your money on the seed premium.

But anywho, let’s get this thing started. Here’s how to propagate globe basil! (Don’t worry, it’s easy!)

Starting from seeds

OK, so the most popular method is to start from seed. As an heirloom herb, you can expect true plants from seed. If you have basil already, then you can use your existing plant for the seeds.

You just need to let some go to seed rather than cut them down. Or you can just buy a packet of seeds from the store. Spicy Globe basil is quite popular, so you should have no issue finding it.

Upon getting your seeds, you’ll also need one of those handy seed starter kits. Fill the compartments with potting mix supplemented with some organic compost.

Put 2-3 seeds each, ¼ inch deep. Then water well. Use a humidity dome to cover them (kits usually come with this). Place the tray somewhere the temperatures will remain above 65F with plenty of sunlight.

You can use a lamp for light. Heat mats are also nice to have for those chilly nights. But regular sunlight exposure will be ideal. Spicy Globe germinates within 14 days on the high end. Plant in May-June if you cold winters. Plant in July otherwise.

When they sprout, thin to the strongest seed. Continue watering when it goes near dry. Once they get 2 pairs of true leaves, you can harden them off by exposing them to the outside for a few hours every day over a week.

At this point, you can move them into your garden or individual containers. If you’re in a zone that gets very hot or cold, using pots is more convenient. You can take them indoors whenever to keep them safe. Easy right?

By transplanting

If you find this guy in the nursery, you can buy it as a pre-grown and then just transplant it into your yard. Don’t have the patience to wait for it to sprout from seed? Then buy it!

Sure, you pay a premium, but you save time. Especially if you’re late in the season and you don’t have time to play catch up.

It’s tempting to keep them indoors, but pots generally require more work than soil sowing. The flavor will be influenced by the care it receives. Basil needs plenty of water, full sun exposure, and regular feeding with a quality fertilizer.

Thankfully, translating is easy. Get the soil ready by prepping a 12 x 12 space per plant.

Remember that soil quality matters. If you choose a higher-quality garden mix with plenty of organic matter, you’ll have less work to do later on.

Use well-draining soil with compost for additional nutrients. Dig a hole at the same depth as the original container. Remove the basil from its pot by tilting it sideways and then pulling it out.

Place it in its new home. Firm the soil around it. Water it well to establish water pathways.

Basil doesn’t grow extensive root systems under the soil line. So each plant only needs a few inches apart. 6 inches is the minimum. Anything more will be extra space.

Container growing

If you decide to plant a container plant, you can leave it in the container. Use a 6” pot. This will be enough so you never have to upgrade it to a larger pot later on.

Ensure that it has drainage holes and consider putting a layer of pebbles at the base to prevent clogging.

Growing indoors

If you decide to grow your basil indoors, you’ll need a bright place to keep it. It should be warm, sunny, and humid. The average humidity should float around 50%. Full sun exposure is necessary.

The care is the same as growing basil outdoors, but you need to make sure that it drains well. Potted plants will also need to be watered more than garden-sown plants.

How to grow Spicy Globe basil

This section comes with basic suggestions for getting the most out of your basil.

Depending on your local climate, hardiness zone, and other conditions, your plant’s needs will vary.

But if you’ve got questions, please feel free to ask by leaving your comments at the end of this care sheet.

Hardiness zone

Plant globe basil based on how you plan to grow it.

If you want to grow it as a perennial, plant it in zones 10 or higher. If you want to grow it as an annual, plant it in zones 4-10. This matters because it won’t tolerate colder temperatures for perennial production. It needs to be in a warmer zone if you want it to come back every year.

If you just plan to harvest it all at once for one season, then you can plant it in a cooler zone.

Soil

Use rich, loose, nutrient-dense soil. The more nutrients it has in the soil column, the more it’ll produce. And you don’t need to supplement with too much fertilizer either.

So if you start it off right, it saves time/effort later on.

Use organic garden soil if possible. If your soil has a poor nutrient profile, supplement it with some organic compost to supply fresh nutrients. If you’re growing in pots, use potting mix.

Soil pH

The soil should be slightly alkaline (basic). Try to keep the range between 6.0-7.5 Use a soil amendment to help increase the pH if necessary. If the soil is too acidic, your basil may have poor taste or texture.

The pH won’t make or break your basil, so don’t fret.

Planting depth

If you’re starting from seed, you can scatter sow or plant them each ¼” deep. If starting from transplants, plant them at the same depth as the original pot. Try to recreate the same conditions that the basil is used to.

Plant spacing

Space each basil at least 6 inches apart. This is enough to stop them from competing for nutrients and provides just enough space for the water to evaporate.

If they’re planted too closely together, they’ll starve each other as they compete for nutrients. Additionally, it prevents water pooling which may lead to fungal issues if the water doesn’t evaporate due to the denseness of foliage.

Plant food

Globe basil will need some half doses of fertilizer every 14 days. When they sprout, give them a tiny dose. Gradually increase the dosage until they’re about 8 weeks. Then stop feeding.

This will give them a head start to produce larger greens. You can use any generic fertilizer, but organic is preferable.

Use an NPK of 10-10-10 or 4-4-4. If you’re planning to grow your basil as a perennial, feed it every year.

Humidity

Humidity should be around 50%, up to 60%. Basil enjoys moderate humidity with deeply watered roots. But the soil must be well draining.

If it’s too humid, it can lead to rot or fungus. Basil likes warmer temperatures with moderate humidity levels. If the humidity is too low, spritz the leaves.

Temperature

Spicy Globe basil needs temperatures between 70-85F. It tolerates some shade but prefers full sun in warmer climates.

Warmer soil will encourage larger, tastier basil leaves. If you expect a cold snap, bring them inside if you’re growing in pots. Otherwise, use mulch to insulate the roots or wrap them with a plant wrap.

Watering

Globe basil should be moist at all times but never soaked. You can test the soil so you know when it’s time to water- use your finger and stick it into the top inch of the soil.

If it’s dry, it’s time to water. Basil can tolerate the soil going dry between watering, so don’t worry too much. Just water enough so it doesn’t go soggy.

Sunlight

These plants require full sun in order to thrive. They need to be exposed to plenty of light during the morning hours but will wilt if the sunlight is too strong.

So plant it somewhere that will get some daylight exposure but has afternoon shade. For indoor herbs, place them next to a sunny window. Sun exposure is necessary.

Aim for at least 7 hours of full sun. Use a grow light if you can’t provide this exposure. Basil with no light will grow smaller. They may also grow leggy.

Pruning

Globe basil will need some light pruning to keep it nice and shapely.

Over time, it’ll lose its spherical shape. It becomes leggier. You’ll need to prune it every now and then to keep it nice and shapely. If you’re growing it as a decorative herb, then keeping it globular is necessary.

Maintenance

Spicy Globe needs very little care other than regular watering and fertilizing. If you want to keep the globe shape, you’ll need to prune it once in a while.

You can pinch it off to keep it compact so it produces dense foliage. Stop pinching it around 65 days or so. Then just leave it be. This is for annuals so you can maximize the most from it.

For perennials, prune in the winter when the basil is dormant.

Do not prune in the summertime or fall when it’s active. It should be pruned to shape, but don’t cut it down to the soil line. If you don’t prune, it’ll get leggy and weak.

Harvesting

Similar to most basil plants, you can harvest Globe Basil as you need it. Avoid plucking off a bunch of leaves at one time. That’s how you end up wasting your harvest for nothing.

You can harvest when the basil is 8″ tall or has 6-8 leaves. This is usually around the 60 day mark.

Just pick as you need before you need to store the surplus. Use a sterilized pair of scissors to clip off the basil when you need them.

Basil is a cut-and-come-again type of thing, so no need to pick it all. Unless you’re making sauce or something. Perhaps picking a lot of basil leaves will come in handy for that batch of pesto.

When the plant starts seeding, cut the whole plant down for the winter. If you don’t, they’ll go to seed. The basil becomes too bitter to eat

Next, if you’re planning to grow it as a perennial, you can harvest it in the following season. Over time, it becomes leggier and will lose its shape, but continue to produce seeds.

If you’re growing it as an annual, congrats on your basil. Harvest the entire thing and collect seeds for next year.

Basil storage

Upon harvest, globe basil can be stored in a tight container or Ziploc bags. Put it in the crisper drawer. It can store up to 14 days while retaining its freshness this way.

Overwintering

Basil can be overwintered, but it’s often more work than it’s worth.

If you’re in zone 10 or lower, the most efficient way is to simply let some seed pods develop and then harvest the seeds for the next season. If you’re in a warmer zone, you can cut it back and leave the roots as perennial.

The roots can be protected with some mulch for the winter. Some people will bring their basil indoors, but this is a lot of work. You’ll need heating and lamps, which is often not worth it.

How to collect basil seeds

The seeds will continue to produce since it’s an heirloom cultivar. If you plan to collect the basil seeds, the seed pods will be what you’re looking for.

You can regrow basil easily from saved seeds.

When they’re developed, cut the pods off then shake the seeds out. Keep them in a mason jar for next season.

Companion plants

Globe basil fits well into your herb garden. You can plant it with the following herbs harmoniously:

• Marigolds
• Potatoes
• Cilantro
• Root vegetables
• Borage
• Oregano
• Parsley
• Asparagus
• Chives
• Oregano
• Chamomile
• Peppers
• Tomatoes
• Beets
• Broccoli
• Anise
• Cilantro
• Cabbage
• Beet

Don’t plant with

These plants don’t pair well with basil. Avoid planting together in the same plot:

• Lavender
• Mint
• Rosemary
• Sage
• Thyme
• Cucumbers
• Fennel
• Common rue

Basically, you want to never plant with other herbs that’ll outcompete basil or that have polar opposite husbandry.

Pests

There are many bugs that would love to get a bite of your basil. Most of them can be eliminated with some organic insecticide. Make sure that it’s indeed safe for use on edible plants before you go spray crazy. Use as instructed by the label.

Some of the most common pests you’ll come across are the following insects:

Snails, caterpillars, beetles, spiders, fungus gnats, spider mites, crickets, aphids, cutworms, leaf miners, leaf beetles, katydids, whiteflies, flea beetles, army worms, grasshoppers, owlet moths, vein miners, underwings, cutworms, and of course, slugs.

Diseases

Basil is susceptible to the following issues:

Cercospora leaf spot, Downy mildew, Fusarium wilt, Fusarium, Gray mold, Botrytis cinerea, root rot, and fungal issues.

You can greatly reduce the possibility of them by simply not overwatering. Keeping the roots moist, but not wet, plus having good water evaporation by not planting your basils too closely will help.

Recipes

Globe basil can be used in the same recipes that traditional Italian large-leaf basil is used in. Some common recipes include:

• Pesto
• Tomato basil pasta
• Sauces
• Soups
• Salads
• Garnishing
• Avocado toast
• Pizza
• Pastas
• Ice cream
• Balsamic reduction

Where to buy

Spicy Globe basil seeds are widely available online and in nurseries. You should have no trouble finding it for sale. Opt for organic if possible.

Further reading/references

• Fresh Pesto with Lime Basil or Spicy Globe Basil and Pine Nuts – EdibleMontereyBay
• Spicy Globe Basil – Wikipedia
• Recipes, Cooking Tips, and Food News | Spicy Globe Basil – Foodista

Enjoy your Spicy Globe basil!

Now that you know the basics of growing and caring for Globe Basil, you have no excuse to add it to your herb garden.

While my enthusiasm for this neat little overlooked herb may be too much, you’ll understand when you grow it yourself.

This plant can be used as both an ornamental decorative plant and you can eat it. Keep it inside or outside. Eat it or decorate it. What do you plan to do?

The post How to Grow Spicy Globe Basil (Beginner’s Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

Well, Batavian lettuce doesn’t mind the heat. It also doesn’t mind the cold either!

This robust lettuce can be grown in zones 2-11, so it’s pretty much a winter and a summer salad.

It has crisp, fresh, and crunchy greens that perfectly complement with Iceberg lettuce or even as a substitute for it in your favorite soups and salads.

Wraps are also usually made with a thick lettuce like Romaine or Batavian because it holds the fillings from spilling out.

Put one layer of this crunchy lettuce and you’re good to go for your favorite chicken or vegan wraps.

Yum…

Let’s dive in and learn how to grow and care for Batavian lettuce. You’ll be surprised at how easy it is to do it.

Quick care guide: Batavia lettuce

Why grow it?

If you’re in a warmer zone, it’s the perfect choice for summer greens because it can tolerate heat much better than other lettuce types.

But at the same time, it can also handle some cold too. You can harvest it as a whole head, microgreen, baby green, or use it indefinitely as a cut and come again lettuce.

Basically, it’s like lettuce, but more hardy with all the same versatility.

It’s a precursor to iceberg lettuce and brings a lot to the table, especially if you’re in a warmer zone.

The reddish color gives it a unique appearance and compliments the greens of Iceberg well in the salad bowl.

It’s easy to grow and perfect for beginners. You also don’t have to wait forever to harvest it. Most species will be ready to eat within 50-70 days.

What does it taste like?

It tastes a bit sweet compared to traditional Iceberg lettuce. This makes it easy to pair or replace other lettuces like Ice Queen if you want to try something new.

The taste is mainly neutral with hints of sweet aftertaste. It’s crisp and crunchy with wavy margins and a crinkled texture.

What is another name for Batavia lettuce?

It’s also known by a small handful of nicknames:

• Summer crisp
• French Crisp
• Oak Leaf Lettuce
• Red lettuce

Types of Batavia lettuce

There are some dozen cultivars you can choose from. Some have higher temperature tolerance, so if you’re in a warmer zone, it’s perfect for that weather.

They also vary in harvest time, color, taste, and texture. I suggest finding something that grows in your hardiness zone first. Then go from there.

• Burgundy Delight (red crinkled leaves)
• Great Lakes (resists tip burn, doesn’t bolt in heat, reliable production)
• Ice Queen (cold tolerant, heat tolerant, bolt resistant, cut and come again, 80 days to harvest)
• Muir (heat tolerant, 50 day harvest time, resists mildew, resist lettuce mosaic virus)
• Nevada (40 day harvest, stores well, open pollinated, tastiest choice)
• Concept (green, compact, easy to grow)
• Mottistone (spotted lettuce)
• Sierra (resistance to tip burn, glossy green, red veins, compact, crisp, tasty, juicy, open pollinator)
• Anuenue (germinates at higher temperatures)
• Cherokee Red (thick leaves, juicy, crunchy, heavy head, dark red)
• Pablo (green tinged with red)
• Carioca (red on green)
• Blonde de Paris (sweet leaves, easy to grow, beginner friendly, popular)
• Loma (endive, curled)
• Cardinale (more red than Pablo)

How to propagate

There are two main ways to propagate it, similar to most other lettuces like Romaine or Buttercruch lettuce.

You can start from seed or just buy it from the nursery pre grown. While starting from seed is more rewarding, getting a seedling saves you time.

So it’s really your choice- time or enjoyment? If you want a head start or it’s late in the season, then buying it from the garden center is the obvious choice.

But if you want to grow it from scratch or grow organic lettuce, then you have full control if you start from seed.

Let’s go into both methods.

Starting from seed

Get a packet of seeds online or in your local garden center. Make sure that they’re the right type. The scientific name is Lactuca sativa var. longifolia.

Start seeds outside, directly into the soil right after the last first date. The weather should be in the 60s with about a 70 day span.

If you anticipate that you won’t have at least 60 days of weather under 70F in the spring, then you can start them earlier to maximize your yield.

If you must start sowing before the predicted last frost date, it’s OK. These guys are pretty cold hardy so no need to worry.

You can also start indoors if you must. Use a seed starter or sow in 3” pots individually. Sow each seed 0.25” spaced 8” apart.

The seeds will germinate quickly when the ambient temperatures are around 40F. This veggie prefers cooler rather than warmer temperatures, which is why you should sow outside in the soil, unless you plan to do it in your garage or something.

This is for winter sowing. You can even sow in the fall 50 days before the first predicted frost date.

The soil should be well draining with nutrient dense substrate. It should be loosened up before you sow with some organic compost mixed in. This helps improve the drainage and prevents compacting.

Scatter sowing also works if you want to keep it simple. Just give each seed a small push into the soil if you want to do it.

As you can see, you have lots of options. There’s no wrong way to do it.

Keep seeds moist, but never wet. They don’t like wet feet. You should see seedlings come out and germinate within 2 weeks at most.

When you water, sprinkle it softly so it doesn’t disturb the seeds. At 65C, the lettuce will germinate within 3 days or so. But temperatures that peak over 77F will stop the germination process.

Therefore, it’s ideal to direct sow in July or August. If you’re growing lettuce in hot weather, this is where it shines.

Starting from transplants

If you don’t have the time or patience for starting seeds, you can always just grab a seedling from the nursery. It’s a popular cultivar and you can likely find it at any nursery during the springtime.

Buy a few (or a dozen) and bring them home. Inspect for pests or quarantine if you have other veggies in your garden. Loosen the soil in your plot and work in some compost.

Uproot each lettuce gently by tilting the pot and then digging it out. Use your eyes and measure the depth of lettuce and dig the same depth in your soil.

So you basically want to replicate the same depth as the original container when you move it into your yard. Transplant each plant. Firm it up with soil so it stays in place. If you have multiple Batavian lettuces, space each one 8 inches apart.

Then give you soil a good watering to establish water pathways. Be careful not to disturb the soil around the plant when you water.

Keep the soil moist, but never wet. If it’s wet, it can lead to rot or fungus. You’ll have to dispose of your lettuce because it’s rotten, so avoid at all costs.

How to grow Batavia lettuce

Here are some tips to help you get the most out of your lettuce. Depending on your local climate, care needs will vary slightly.

But it should be suitable for most Batavia lettuce cultivars. If you have questions, you can post them at the end of this care sheet.

Since these veggies don’t care about the cold, it makes it easier to grow them in cooler zones. That’s the main benefit- if you’re in a lower zone, you may be able to grow this lettuce without worrying about the cold.

Hardiness zone

Batavia can be planted in USDA hardiness zones 2-11. It can tolerate cooler temps more so than warmer temps.

If you’re in a cooler zone and you want salad in the winter, this is for you. Warmer zones can do fine too, but watch out for bolting.

Get a different strain if you’re in zone 10 or higher so you can minimize it. There are some cultivars that are resistant to bolting.

Overall, this is one of the ideal salad greens to grow in warmer zones because of its warm temperature tolerance. Other greens will bolt much quicker compared to it.

Soil

Batavian lettuce loves loose, well draining, nutrient dense soils. Mix in 1⁄3 organic compost to help improve drainage.

The soil should have water retaining features, which you can find in most standard soils. Mix it well so it’s nicely tilled and then loosen it up by using a tiller or by hand. Use organic soils if possible. Nutrient dense soils will help you reduce the need for fertilizer later on.

pH

This lettuce prefers an acidic soil, with a pH range between 6.0-6.8.

If your soil is neutral or alkaline, you can buy soil amendments to help bring the pH down and make it more acidic.

The soil acidity will affect the flavor and texture of your heads.

Depth

When starting from seed, you can plant each seed ¼ inch deep with a light layer of soil on top. Or you can scatter sow if you want that random, fuller looking plot.

Gently push each seed to firmly hold it in place.

If growing from a pre grown seedling, plant at the same depth as the original pot.

Spacing

Space each plant 8” from one another to minimize competition for nutrients. This also gives the plants plenty of room to grow their leaves and heads.

Don’t place them too close together or else they may choke on the humidity if the water doesn’t evaporate quickly enough.

Temperature

The temperature is the most important factor in determining the quality of your lettuce leaves.

You’ll need at least 2 months of time for it to grow, which gives you around 60 days for it to develop those tasty, crisp leaves.

The temp during this time must be right under 70F. If it’s too hot, you’ll get smaller yield, yellow or browning foliage, or poor quality taste/texture.

There are some strains that are heart tolerant and won’t bolt up to the 80s, so look for those if you’re in a higher hardiness zone.

While they do prefer the cold, the lowest they can tolerate is 20F. Once temps dip below the 20s, it won’t be able to handle it.

For most parts of the US, that’s not a problem. They can handle a brief dip in temp too. You can even put a layer of mulch around the soil to help insulate the roots, or move them indoors or into a greenhouse if you have them potted.

This is why they’re commonly grown as a winter crop in temperate areas of the US. Warmer zones will have no issues if it doesn’t get too hot because it’s somewhat bolt-resistant.

For warmer regions, they’re the perfect choice because of their wide temperature range tolerance. Ideally, 60-70F is preferred.

Humidity

Similar to Ice Queen or Iceberg lettuces, Batavia likes moderate to high humidity. You can up the humidity by watering it regularly or spritzing it when it’s dry outside.

If you keep the soil moist between watering sessions, the humidity should be nothing to worry about. Aim for levels of at least 50% or higher if you’re using a hygrometer to monitor the humidity levels.

Sunlight

Plant the lettuce head in full sun. If the sun is too strong in your zone, you can get away with partial sun. In temperate zones, full sun in the morning is ideal.

Too much sunlight will scorch the leaves and dry them out, which will make them too crispy or turn brown. If you notice this, set up some artificial shade or plant with taller veggies.

Watering

Keep the soil moist at all times. Do not let it dry out between watering sessions. Their roots are very shallow, so you should water whenever the surface feels near dry.

That’s a good indicator of how their roots are feeling. Use a soil moisture prong to see the exact soil saturation if you’re not sure. Drip irrigation also works perfectly for slow drip watering.

Plant food

Batavian lettuce needs no additional plant food or fertilizer if the soil is well fed.

This is why you need to use high quality soil with plenty of nutrients and 30% compost when you start.

If your soil is lacking nutrients, your lettuce will be small or have poor quality leaves. If this is the case, you can supplement with some 5-5-5 or 3-3-4 NPK general fertilizer. Use as directed.

Weeding

Be sure to regularly pull weeds that are within 1 foot of your lettuce.

These weeds will compete for nutrients against your lettuce. Weeds will win every time, so don’t let them.

Pull them as soon as you see them. They’ll sap the nutrients out of the soil which can lead to smaller yields or poor quality heads. They can also bring pests or pathogens into the plot.

Mulching

If it’s especially cold outside, you can add a 3” layer of mulch around the base of the soil. This can help insulate it from cold storms.

But for most people, even as low as zone 2, you should be fine without mulch. That’s why people like this lettuce. It’s one of the few that can be grown as a winter harvest green.

Pruning

Pruning is not necessary for this plant.

Just cut the foliage and use it as you need. Unless the leaves are yellow or browning, leave them on. The leaves should be harvested regularly to prevent crowding.

Maintenance

This lettuce needs no maintenance other than regular watering. Harvest on time and feed if your soil is poor quality and has no nutrients. Remove yellowing or browning leaves.

Repotting

You’ll need to repot if you’re growing in a tiny container.

For starters, growing it in 3” potters is OK.

But when the roots start climbing out or hitting the edges of the pot, you’ll need to transplant it to a larger pot in order to maximize your yield. It’s easy though- just get a pot that’s at least 5” in width.

The depth doesn’t matter because Batavia has shallow roots.

Gently uproot it then replant it in the larger pot. Use a terra cotta or porous materials so it can insulate the plant more efficiently than plastic.

Harvesting

Picking Batavian lettuce is easy. Use a pair of sterilized clippers and cut the base of the plant- a few inches above the soil line.

It should be ready to harvest right around the 60 day mark if conditions are ideal. You can use it as a whole head or just pick the greens.

Baby greens or microgreens are also possible. Or you can just cut it as needed for salads or wraps. Cut from the outside in.

Storage

Batavian lettuce can be stored in a cotton cloth into the crisper drawer. It’ll stay fresh for up to 5 days. Otherwise, use immediately for best taste. Don’t pick unless you have to to keep them fresh.

Overwintering

This veggie needs no special care in the winter. It can tolerate temperatures down to the 30F range with no issue.

If you’re expecting a cold front, then bring it inside if potted or mulch it with 3” of organic mulch around the base. You can also use plant covers or wraps to keep it warm.

Companion plants

Batavian lettuce can be planted with other vegetables in harmony.

Some popular companion plants that go well with this lettuce include:

• Cilantro
• Parsnips
• Radishes
• Beets
• Calendula
• Carrots
• Nasturtiums
• Alliums
• Garlic
• Onion

Don’t plant with

Whatever you do, avoid planting lettuce with brassicas.

These include cauliflower, kale, cabbage, kohlrabi, fennel, etc. They don’t play well together.

Container growing

Batavia can be grown in pots if you want the portability of moving it around. It’s extra handy when you can bring it indoors during cold snaps or heat waves- the convenience is worth it.

To container plant, choose something that’s stone, terra cotta, or ceramic. Don’t use plastics because they don’t retain heat well.

Use a pot that’s at least 5” wide and 3” depth. It should have drainage holes (at least 2) in case one gets clogged. Upgrade when it becomes root bound to the edges of the pot.

Growing indoors

Batavian lettuce can be grown indoors, but it should be relatively cool for it to do well. If it’s too warm, it’ll bolt.

So think of places like your garage where the temperatures match the outside in the wintertime. It also needs sunlight, so it’ll be hard to get it cold at night while supplying enough light in the day.

But if you have a garage with a big window, you can do it.

Pests

Batavian lettuce is pretty hardy to most pests, so that’s nice. But there are a handful of bugs that can make their way into the lettuce and do some damage. Namely bugs like snails, caterpillars, beetles, spiders, fungus gnats, spider mites, etc.

You’ll also deal with the common aphid.

Crickets will also eat or nest in it, especially if it’s rotting.

There are some wildlife that you need to watch out for. Deer, rabbits, voles and other invertebrates will munch on those precious leaves.

If you see torn leaves, holes in the foliage, or damaged heads, it can be due to these buggers.

Get rid of them by manually removing them, setting up repellents, or using an insecticide that’s safe for use on vegetables. Don’t use any random insecticide. It must be approved for edibles only.

Diseases

You’ll need to be careful if you spot downy mildew, root rot, leaf spot, damping off, lettuce mosaic virus, bottom rot, or fungal issues. This usually happens when it’s overwatered or has poor drainage.

You can improve the situation by using a well draining soil, harvesting on time, and using organic fungicides. Keep it dry. Never overwater. Let it evaporate so it doesn’t pool.

This is why using a well draining substrate is critical. If you put them too close together, it also affects how quickly the water evaporates.

Some cultivars are resistant to these pathogens, so if it’s a problem for you, consider looking into them.

Recipes

Because it’s lettuce, it’s versatile!

Everything from your usual salads, soups, or side dishes. They’re all fair game!

You can use it in all the regular dishes where you use any other lettuce as a substitute. Some awesome recipes include

Batavia lettuce with radish salad or with hazelnut. You can use it as a salad ingredient or soup complement.

Batavia lettuce is commonly used in sandwiches, wraps, and soups. Chicken wraps are a good idea because the lettuce is thick.

Because of its resilience to falling apart, it’s a favorite lettuce wrap and hold your fillings firmly. It has crinkled, wavy leaves with a crisp texture and a sweet flavor.

Salads are the most popular choice by far- use the baby greens, or use the head in soups.

Further reading/references

• Cool-Season Vegetables: How to Grow Lettuce – Houzz

Enjoy your Batavia grown at home!

These broad-leaf beauties are exception for zones with stubbornly hot temperatures.

With its versatility, hardy nature, easy substation, and ease of care, Batavia is a good choice to add to your garden.

How do you plan to use it? Leave a comment and let me know! Please let me know your feedback on my care sheet too!

The post How to Grow Batavian Lettuce (Everything You Need to Know) appeared first on Gardenisms.

What if I told you it’s just as easy to grow as any other lettuce. Plus, it plays well with your existing veggies?

Enter Ice Queen Lettuce.

It’s not as popular as Iceberg, but it should be. It’s a crisphead that offers a lot more flavor for the same work.

Let’s learn how to grow and care for Ice Queen lettuce.

Quick care guide: Ice Queen Lettuce

What’s Ice Queen lettuce?

Ice Queen lettuce is like iceberg lettuce but with flavor. You know traditional lettuce is bland. But Ice Queen is sweet and flavorful.

If you’re trying to get more salad in your diet but can’t do it, try Ice Queen as an alternative. It’s a crisphead, semi-heading plant, which means you can eat the leaves or the whole lettuce head.

Plus, it’s super easy to grow in your home garden.

Guess what it’s called Ice Queen? It’s because it’s cold and hardy!

Other names

You may have heard Ice Queen called the following names:

• Batavia
• Summer Crisp
• Queen of the Ice
• Reine des Glaces

It has French roots, so it’s called Queen of the Ice over there.

What does Ice Queen look like?

Ice Queen lettuce is different from regular lettuce (Iceberg). It has small, emerald-green leaves with a head surrounded by them.

The leaves are jagged with a nice crown formation around the lettuce head. The lettuce is a crisphead type with a summer flair.

Where to buy Ice Queen lettuce

You can often find seed packets at your local nursery or online. Seedlings may be found at some specialty garden centers, but it’s much easier to find the seeds. When looking for the right cultivar, it’s called L. sativa (Reine des Glaces).

Why grow it?

You should grow it because it’s an easy addition to your veggie garden. It offers a nice sweeter taste to balance out your veggies.

It requires little to no care so don’t think it’s going to make your garden that much more work.

How to propagate

Ice Queen can be propagated by purchasing the lettuce plugs at your local nursery or from seed.

You may be able to find Ice Queen for sale in some specialty garden centers if you wanna skip the whole planting-from-seed thing.

The plant will be ready for harvest quickly. Most Ice Queen lettuce is good to go right around 65 days on average, spending on the local temperatures.

If you want to only get the leaves, you can harvest them even earlier. The head takes the longest amount of time.

Plant in the springtime if you can, but this plant does well even in late summer to fall. It depends on ambient temperatures.

If there’s enough sunlight before it gets too cold in the winter, then you may be able to plant later on.

Propagating by transplanting

If you buy Ice Queen lettuce from the nursery, you can plant it right into your garden.

Prepare the area by digging about 5” down and 12” wide. Resed with organic, nutrient-rich, well-draining soil. Mix in some organic compost as well. This will help feed the lettuce and get it to produce higher-quality heads.

Take the original plant out of the container by digging out the sides. Watch out for the roots. They’re fragile. Water it to help loosen the dirt if it’s too dry.

Place the plant into the soil you prepped. Give them a nice watering to get them going. That’s it!

From seed

You can start either indoors or out. If outside temperatures aren’t favorable, then start indoors. But keep in mind that you’ll need to move them outside later. They need sunlight to produce larger heads.

If starting indoors, use a seed starter kit. Or a 3-inch container for each seed if you prefer individual ones. Biodegradable ones save you time since you can move them right into the soil later.

Seeds can be sprinkled on the soil randomly. If you want to plant baby greens, space them with 3-4 inches of leaves only. For full lettuce heads, space them at least 5 inches apart.

Seeds can be sown directly on the surface of your soil. No need to pat down or press on them. You can sprinkle a light layer of soil over the seed if you want to keep them from blowing away in the wind or flowing in water.

After sowing, water carefully so the seeds don’t float around. Once you water, it’ll create water pathways for the water to flow.

Sometimes the water will catch the seeds too. Avoid this or just mist the water. After they root, you can water normally with a watering can after 1-2 weeks. The water should be moist, but never wet. If it pools, it can harm the seedlings.

Place the pots somewhere where the lettuce will get at least 8 hours of light per day. Or use a grow light if you can’t provide this. Thin to the stones steed if you’re planting multiple in each pot.

If you’re starting the seeds outside, do the same steps above directly into the soil.

When the seeds are about 3-4 inches tall, it’s time to move them outside. Wait until the last frost has passed.

You need to acclimate so they adjust to the elements. Place them outside for 1 hour per day over a week in sheltered light. Increase by 1 hour per day until you have a full 8 hours.

How to grow Ice Queen lettuce

You’ll find that Ice Queen is a beginner-friendly vegetable that requires very little work.

This plant provides you with those sweet salads to balance out that arugula. If you have questions, please leave a comment.

Hardiness zone

Ice Queen lettuce grows in USDA hardiness zones 3-10. It tends to have cooler temperatures better than hotter ones. If your zone is too hot in the summertime, you can plant it indoors. It can fare well in the winter too if you’re in zone 8 or higher.

Soil

Use well-draining, moisture-retaining soil with plenty of organic nutrients. Put in a bit of organic compost to help feed the lettuce.

The soil should be well-seeded with plenty of nutrients. This will reduce the work you’ll need to do later. If you use good quality soil, you don’t need to feed it with plant food later on.

Soil pH

Ice Queen lettuce requires soil with pH parameters between 6.1-6.5, so it’s slightly more acidic than neutral.

While it’ll grow in neutral soil, lettuce plants generally prefer acidic soils for optimal production.

You can use soil amendments to help lower the soil pH without introducing ethics into the produce. If you’re going organic, you’ll need to use organic amendments too.

Depth

Plant seeds on the surface of the soil then sprinkle them with a light layer. No need to push the seeds into the dirt. They can just be randomly sprinkled on the soil surface if you’re growing baby greens. For heads, space them accordingly.

Spacing

For baby greens, space them 2-3 inches apart.

For heads, space them 5 inches apart. It’s okay to put them close together so you can maximize space, but you need to make sure that it doesn’t pool water.

They may also compete for nutrients if the soil is bad quality. If this is the case, supplement with a balanced plant food with an NPK of 10-10-10.

Temperature

Ice Queen lettuce can be grown in temperatures between 32F to 80F. It likes the cool more than the heat. If it’s too hot, use plant covers or artificial shade to protect it.

Or just bring it indoors. If it’s too cold, you can use 2-3 inches of mulch around the roots, but don’t let it touch the head or else it may rot. Remove the mulch in the spring.

Plant wraps are also good for keeping it insulated. Remember that warmer temperatures generally mean quicker yield, but don’t let the temps creep too high or you’ll do the opposite.

Humidity

Lettuce likes high humidity in general. The plant is like 98% water anyway, so of course, moderate to high humidity is preferable.

This will keep it nice and moist. If your plant starts to get dry, you can spray it with some distilled water. In normal conditions, the outside humidity in zones 3 or higher should be enough to keep it moist.

Sunlight

Similar to most other lettuce types, you’ll need to provide Ice Queen at least 8 hours of bright light per day. 10 hours is ideal.

The more light you provide, the quicker it’ll be ready to harvest. Use bright, direct sunlight while maintaining temperatures in the right range for optimal results!

Watering

Keep the soil moist at all times- it should never be super wet or completely dry. If you let it dry out, the lettuce will start to yellow or brown.

Whatever you do, do NOT let the water pool.

Make sure it drains well or let you introduce fungus or rot. Use the right soil so it doesn’t back up. The soil should be watered more often when the plant is small.

Water it a bit more when it gets to 3” or taller.

Plant food

No fertilizer or plant food is necessary if you give it enough sun, and water, and use good-quality soil. Remember how I said to use organic nutrient-dense soil when you prepare your garden?

This is why you do it! If you start with good soil in the beginning you don’t need to worry about feeding it because of a lack of nutrients later on. Use a generic 5-5-5 plant food.

Mulching

Mulching isn’t necessary for Ice Queen if you’re in temperate zones. If temperatures dip below 30F, you can put a 2-inch layer of mulch on the soil to help insulate it.

Remove the mulch when temperatures pick back up. Avoid putting the mulch against the head.

Pruning

Ice Queen lettuce doesn’t need any pruning other than yellowing or browning leaves.

Remove them and use them for compost if you wish. Pinch them off with pruners. Or just pull them off.

The only other time you’ll be “pruning” is when you harvest those delicious heads to eat!

Maintenance

Lettuce in general requires little to no care other than regular watering and watching the weather.

One thing that you do wanna watch out for is weeds. If there are too many weeds in the area, they outcompete the lettuce. This can make the leaves or heads smaller, bitter, or lower quality.

Be sure to weed your lettuce regularly, especially when they’re still small.

Repotting

When the lettuce roots have grown so dense that it becomes hard to water, it’s time to repot.

Though, most people will uproot the head before they repo. If you leave the head there, it should be harvested rather than put into a new pot. If you don’t use it, it becomes hard and bitter.

For repotting, just move it to a larger pot that’s 2” wider than the current pot.

Harvesting

Baby greens are ready to harvest in about 21 days. You can gently peel those precious greens off, wash them, and eat them!

If you want the head, it’ll take about 65 days to harvest. Eat the outer leaves first then the inner ones because they’re bitter.

Use sterilized scissors to snip a few pieces off. If you want the whole head, use clippers and lift the outer leaves, then clip the head off. You can also dig around the head to remove it.

Storage

Ice Queen lettuce can be stored in the fridge. The plant will store well if the roots are left on the head. Be sure to remove the dirt before you store it or you’ll bring it inside your fridge. Remove water if possible.

Overwintering

This lettuce doesn’t need to be overwintered for the most part. If you’re located in zones 3 or higher, you should be OK. It can tolerate temp dips down to the low 30s.

If you expect a cold front, use a mulch to insulate the roots. Or bring it inside. Or harvest it! It’s not the cold hardy, unlike cabbage or fava beans, but it can still handle some temp dips.

Companion plants

Ice Queen plays well with a lot of other companion plants.

You can pair it with the following plants in the same plot for multiple veggies:

• Beets
• Carrots
• Asparagus
• Corn
• Cucumbers
• Eggplant
• Peas
• Spinach
• Tomatoes
• Sunflowers
• Coriander
• Parsnips
• Strawberries
• Radishes
• Onions

Don’t plant with

However, lettuce doesn’t play well with all edibles.

Here are some plants you should not plant next to lettuce in general:

• Broccoli
• Romanescos
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Mustards
• Brussels sprouts

This will compete for resources or sap the precious nutrients from your Ice Queen. So don’t put them in the same plot.

Container growing

Choose a container that’s porous like terra cotta, clay, or stone.

These materials help absorb and evaporate water so it doesn’t pool in the pot. Avoid plastics or pots that are nonporous.

Be sure it doesn’t have some special coating, such as glaze. This defeats the purpose. The container should be at least 5 inches wide with multiple holes to drain.

Growing indoors

For those in zones that aren’t suitable for this, you can still put it inside your house. Grow it potted or use a window planter and put it in a bright sunny spot.

You need to use higher-quality soil and make sure that it drains well.

The care is pretty much the same as growing it outside.

Give it 8 hours of sunlight per day and mist it to keep it humid. If your soil quality sucks, use some plant fertilizer to help feed it.

Pests

Similar to other lettuces, Ice Queen is subject to a variety of bugs, including beetles, crickets, caterpillars, slugs, snails, fungus gnats, and even aphids! Of course.

Some herbivores like deer or rabbits will also trample or take bites of your lettuce too.

But you can stop those easily with some fencing. The other bugs will need insecticides, but make sure they’re safe for edible plants.

Use organic sprays if possible, or just natural pest remedies entirely. You don’t want to spray it down with dangerous compounds because you’ll be eating it.

Diseases

Ice Queen is resistant to many pathogens that may affect other veggies like leaf spots, so you don’t need to worry about them. Just prune it regularly when you get those ugly leaves or browning ones.

Don’t leave them on the lettuce because it’ll waste energy trying to grow them.

Usage scenarios

You can use Ice Queen lettuce to substitute any dish where you’d normally use regular lettuce.

There are way too many to name, but a few are salads, side dishes, burgers, hotdogs, and soups. The flavor profile is quite different so the taste is noticeable.

Further reading/references

Check out these sources for more detailed info about Ice Queen:

• Florina Spinach and Ice Queen Lettuce – Reddit

Outro

Well, there you have it. A complete care guide for the precious Ice Queen! It’s not all that precious because it’s quite hardy.

It’s an easy-to-grow veggie that tastes good with its hints of sweetness. You can easily put this in your yard to add to your veggie plot.

It’s beginner friendly and doesn’t take up a lot of room for some baby greens. Why wouldn’t you grow Ice Queen?

The post How to Grow Ice Queen Lettuce (Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

The rest of the year? Not so much. It’s kind of like winterberry holly or mistletoe.

But didn’t you know that you can grow it in your house and enjoy it all year long (other than the summertime?).

This guy will even bloom for you. And produce a variety of leaves that you can enjoy even during winter.

Plus, it’s a super low maintenance houseplant that not a lot of people considering growing. So if you want something unique, this is it.

Let’s talk about how to grow and care for shamrock!

Last update: 2/16/23.

Quick care guide: Shamrock (Oxalis spp.)

What’s Shamrock?

Oxalis spp., commonly known as shamrock, is natively from Africa and South America.

You may be accustomed to thinking it’s from kiss me Ireland, but it’s just a misconception. Shamrock is more than shamrock shakes or clovers in the field.

Now there ARE Ireland native varieties, but here in the US, we grow different Oxalis species.

You already know about it from decorating for St. Patty’s day. But they’re more than just a once-a-year plant.

These guys can be planted year-round for attractive, easy-to-care-for indoor pleasure. There are several varieties and they can be grown with just bright light.

This plant is a tiny house plant. Some species grow no more than 6-7 inches at most while others can topple 20 inches.

They can have a variety of delicate leaves that range in colors and shapes from lavender to white to green.

They also produce pretty blooms during the fall, winter, and spring. But not in the summer. They don’t like heat.

Shamrock will fold up their leaves at night and then open them again in the day when they sense light, so it’s one of those plants that “talk” to you.

Other names for shamrock include:

• Trifolium repens
• Clover
• Trefoil
• Dutch clover
• Summer plant
• Seamrog
• Oxalis
• Wood sprig

Where does shamrock come from?

The original Irish shamrock does come from Ireland. It’s a common lawn weed native to the country with its rhizomatous perennial leaves.

However, it’s been brought into other countries in different varieties.

In the US, you’ll commonly come across 3 different types that are differentiated mainly by their colors: purple, white, or green.

Appearance

Shamrock is more than just that tiny green plant you pick from the field. The houseplant can be anything from variegated to striped. The leaves can be purple, green, or pink.

Even the leaf shape can be different sizes with varying patterns. The blooms are white or pink with delicate petals that peek out from the clusters of leaves. The shamrock leaves are three sided and has a symmetric shape overall, but can vary depending on the plant.

Is shamrock poisonous?

Shamrock is indeed poisonous. Pets, people, and any other creatures should be kept away from Oxalis plants. Ingestion may cause acid poisoning or oxalic acid poisoning.

Types of shamrock

There are many different types of Oxalis species, each with its own variations in color, size, and more. In the US, you’ll find three that are most commonly grown.

Green Shamrock (O. regnellii)

Green shamrock is one with bright green foliage. They can be various shapes from triangular to spade-shaped.

This is the most popular cultivar here with its large white flowers that contrast perfectly with the lush green foliage.

There are other variations that include variegated leaves, such as Irish Mist, Hairy Woodsorrel, Wood Sorrel.

Purple Shamrock (O. triangularis)

False shamrock has those dark, purple-colored leaves with lavender/white flowers.

The blossoms are light in color while the foliage is dark, so it’s very striking to look at.

Some purple types include Love Plant or Mijke. The leaves are purple, pink, or lavender. They’re symmetric with three sides. They’re lighter in the center with a rosy color.

Why grow it?

That’s a good question. A lot of people grow this plant because it requires little maintenance, is drought tolerant, and can withstand desert temperatures down to 10F before it starts to wilt.

It can be purchased from the nursery and then replanted in the garden with ease when it’s still manageable. It also doesn’t need any work nearly all season other than occasional watering or pruning.

Plus, it looks awesome. This plant can attract beneficial pollinators to your yard, such as bees and hummingbirds.

Is it beginner friendly?

Yes, shamrock is very easy to grow and good for beginners. Once you get it set up and rooted, it takes care of itself.

You only need to water it and prune it. Plus give it some plant food once in a while. But that’s about it.

Can you eat shamrock root?

Shamrock root from SOME species is considered edible.

They’re large and have been cultivated as a crop in New Zealand, however, you should avoid eating the roots without consulting a professional.

If you don’t know how to identify the root properly, you can cause adverse effects from ingestion.

How to propagate shamrock

Shamrock actually can’t be harvested and then regrown from seed.

The plant can only be propagated by using existing shamrock tubers or buying a shamrock plant from the local garden center

This plant doesn’t produce viable seeds, so you won’t find them for sale. Either find a neighbor or friend that can give you some tubers or buy one from the nursery to get it going.

There are two main ways to propagate shamrock. Read them and see which one suits your style!

Propagating by transplanting

You can propagate by doing it the old-fashioned way. Buy a shamrock plant then grab a new pot to transplant it to.

You’ll want to use a planter that’s similar in size (diameter). Check the depth of the original shamrock roots. You’ll want to replant it into a similarly sized pot.

Fill the new pot ⅔ full with a well-draining, nutrient-dense potting mix. Don’t use garden soil. The pot should be well draining with multiple drain ports so it doesn’t get clogged. Shamrock can’t tolerate wet feet!

Gently uproot the original plant by tilting the container to its side. You can water it if the soil is tough or hard. If the roots are rootbound, use sterilized pruners to cut them from the pot.

This will loosen the shamrock plant so you can remove it from the original pot. Remove the soil from the shamrock roots. You won’t be able to get it all off, but you can get most of it off by using water to loosen it.

Replace the soil with a new potting mix. Don’t use the original soil because it’s likely depleted of nutrients. Be gentle when doing any sort of cutting. Trim only as much as you need to.

Recycling the soil may also introduce pests to your new pot. This is why you should remove as much as you can.

Place the shamrock into its new home. The plant should be placed about half an inch taller than the original container.

This allows it to sit in over time because it’ll seep into place. Fill around the shamrock with new soil. Pat it down. Then water it!

Keep the container within temperatures of 60-70F. It’s preferred to keep it cooler than warmer. Water it daily, but don’t overdo it. It should be moist but never wet.

Place the container next to a sunny spot, but not directly in the sun. use dappled filtered light only.

Propagating by dividing

You can also easily divide shamrock from a neighbor’s plant. You’ll need a virulent, established shamrock to extract plant sections from.

The ideal time to divide is in the fall, usually from October onwards.

This is because the plant will produce so you can extract! Autumn is when new shoots appear and are good for dividing the tubers in the plant. You can get more shamrocks to give away or expand your collection.

Get high-quality, nutrient-dense, well-draining soil. I know. Everyone says that. But it’s because it’s THAT important.

Next, grab a potter that’s well draining and has at least a 5” diameter. The material of the pot matters.

Choose one that’s terracotta or ceramic. Pretty much anything that’s porous. This material helps minimize temperature swings, which can be harmful to younger shamrock seedlings.

Don’t use plastic. It quickly heats up and doesn’t retain heat overnight. The pot should have at least 3 holes to drain. Double-check that it doesn’t require you to drill them yourself!

Fill the pot with potting soil one inch from the rim of the container. Let the soil sit by shaking it so it evens out.

Water it so it’ll settle down even more. You can give it a generous watering for the first time so it can build water pathways.

Gently tilt the pot so you can unearth the plant. You only need to take out the top few inches of soil to see the shamrock roots. Find a tuber that’s at least 1” in diameter with complete roots on it.

If it has stems, that’s preferred so you know you’re pulling a tuber that’s ready to root. The tuber can be removed by gently pulling it away from the others. But if it’s too tangled, ignore it.

Wipe off any debris or soil stuck on it. Then place it into the new pot at 1” deep. Cover it with a potting mix, but don’t pat it.

You want it near the surface of the soil line because if it’s too deep, it’ll likely rot or grow fungus. Plus, shamrock doesn’t like to be wet. Moist is the name of the game.

Put the pot in temperate conditions near a sunny window. The light should be bright, but filtered sunlight that’s NOT direct.

How to grow shamrock

You’ll find that shamrock is a beginner-friendly houseplant that requires very little work. Here are some suggestions to maximize your shamrock’s size.

Got questions? Post your questions in the comments.

Hardiness zone

Shamrock grows well in USDA hardiness zones 8-11. If you’re planning on growing it outside in your yard, be sure that you’re within these zones.

Temperatures that are too hot or cold will make it enter premature dormancy, which can limit those pretty blooms.

Otherwise, if you’re growing it inside your house, then you’ve got nothing to worry about. The zone doesn’t matter for indoor houseplants. So plant on!

Soil

Use well-draining, moisture-retaining soil with plenty of organic nutrients.

You can find a potting mix in nurseries that can be combined with plant supplements in order to get it saturated with nutrients. In other words, if you can’t find the soil you need for your shamrock, make your own!

Use organic soil if possible. Shamrock can be sensitive to harmful compounds in the soil column. Get loamy, sandy, well-draining acidic soil.

Soil pH

The soil pH should be on the acidic side, with a pH range of 4.5-6.5 for shamrock plants.

You can raise the pH of your soil naturally using soil amendments. Potting mix for indoor plants usually fulfills this requirement.

While the pH won’t make or break your shamrock’s production, it can help spruce up the colors and overall happiness of your plant.

Depth

The seeds should be planted 1” from the soil line and lightly covered. If transplanting, it should be planted at the same root depth as the original plant. If growing from cuttings, plant at least 5 inches deep.

Spacing

If you’re planting multiple shamrock tubers in the same pot, give them 3 inches between each to help encourage water evaporation and minimize competition for nutrients.

If you’re just planting one per pot, then space it at least 2 inches more than the longest root. It likes to be snug, but not too tight.

However, shamrock generally fares well when the root are confined so it can focus its energy on the production of blooms.

Temperature

Keep shamrock between 70-80 F during the daytime. During the night, it can tolerate temperatures as low as 50F.

This plant is both sensitive to temps that are too hot and too cold, so keep it in the ideal range. Dormancy is a common sign of temperatures that are way too hot for shamrock to tolerate.

If this is the case, move it away from the windows so it doesn’t face overheating. Premature dormancy is common for shamrocks that are kept directly in the sun.

Humidity

Shamrock prefers average, moderate humidity. Maintain levels between 40-50%. If the air is dry, you can use a humidifier or try placing it near wetter areas like the bathroom or kitchen.

You can also use a pebble tray with water or near a room humidifier.

Sunlight

For south facing windows, place them 2-3 feet away from the window on bright sunny days. It needs dappled light, never direct light. If it’s too sunny, it’ll get dehydrated and may even enter dormancy.

Yellowing or browning leaves, dry leaves, or stunted growth are signs that your shamrock is getting scorched.

Full or partial sunlight is OK, but it depends on your location. Hotter zones should use filtered sunlight only.

Watering

Water shamrock when the top inch of soil feels dry. Don’t let shamrock dry out between watering sessions.

While it has some degree of drought tolerance, it’s not excellent by any means. Soil should remain slightly moist during all periods. Water 2-3 times per month. The soil should nearly dry out between watering, but not completely if you have a well-draining pot.

If the soil is draining poorly, switch containers or let it dry out between waterings as a temporary solution.

Plant food

Shamrock will benefit from nutrition in the soil but takes plant fertilizer as well. Feed your shamrock once every other week in the fall through spring.

When it produces its gorgeous blooms, feed more often using a liquid houseplant fertilizer.

You can dilute it with water to help reduce its strength of it so you can feed it more often. Most shamrocks will do OK without fertilizer, but if you want to produce the maximum of flowers, consider adding some plant food.

Use well-balanced houseplant food. Oxalis varieties will produce the most flowers when grown indoors.

Mulching

Mulching isn’t necessary for shamrock. If temperatures dip below 40F, you can put a half-inch layer of mulch on the soil to help insulate it. Remove during the growing season. Only use sparingly for cold snaps.

Pruning

Pruning should be done with a pair of sterilized scissors or pruners. Remove dead leaves or ugly ones.

Prune to keep it tidy and neat. Cutting back the leaves and spent blossoms are necessary for the summertime when it enters dormancy. Feel free to tidy it up by neatly trimming off yellowing or browning leaves.

Spent flowers should be removed so they can focus their energy on producing other flowers. Cutting it back will help encourage more flowering.

Maintenance

Shamrock requires very little maintenance once established. Just water it 2-3 times per month and give it some high-quality plant food during the growing season.

Cut off spent leaves or flowers during dormancy transition. That’s it.

If you want to keep it in good shape, there are some things you can do to help improve your shamrock!

Repotting

Your plant will outgrow its first home (the 5-inch pot) and will need to be repotted into a bigger pot.

Oxalis doesn’t like too much space between the roots but doesn’t like crowded roots either.

Being rootbound is a good thing, but upgrade as needed. Snug, tight-fitting pots will limit the roots from growing, which then forces the shamrock to produce flowers and leaves instead.

So limiting the pot size is a good thing. When you start seeing the roots come out of the drain holes or compact on the edges, then it’s time to repot. Gently remove it by tilting the pot.

Dig out the soil being careful not to harm the roots. Then place the plant into its new home by sticking it into the center of a prefilled pot with the same or different soil. Fill the new pot 2⁄3 of the way up with soil. It’s also a good time to assess how the soil contents are.

If you want to experiment with other substrates, consider using a soil test kit to see what it’s missing/what it ate. Larger oxalis species can grow upwards of 24 inches wide and 18 inches tall. The smaller ones will max out at 6-8 inches.

When the foliage or stems have grown so dense that it becomes hard to water, it’s time to repot.

Visible roots that come out of the bottom are also another sign that it needs a bigger house. Increase the container size by 2 inches each time to ensure a snug fit. Keep the depth of the original container, but expand its diameter of it.

The roots will be shallow when you uproot them, so be very careful not to damage them.

Remove as much of the old soil stuck on the roots as you can. Settle the crown an inch higher.

The part where the shoots come out from the tubers should be about half an inch taller than the previous pot.

Try to keep the tubers together so it’s uniform. Fill it with soil to hold it in place. Water it well.

Overwintering

Shamrock can be stored between temperatures of 40-50F during the winter.

When the col has passed, the plant will resume blooming. Some cultivars will bloom throughout the winter time, so it’s a good choice for a plant that produces flowers even in the winter.

If you’re planting outside, store the bulbs indoors for the summer. Then in the spring, you can plant them outside with 1” of soil. Water well and expect foliage in a few weeks.

These plants will produce the most blooms indoors rather than outside. Note that if you take a native shamrock and try to plant it indoors, it usually won’t take it well.

Seed saving

Shamrock seeds aren’t viable for saving, so this isn’t an option. This is why you can only buy it from a nursery or use bulbs/tubers from an existing one.

Companion plants

Shamrock pairs well with other colorful houseplants. Although you should grow it in its own container, you can put it next to other houseplants like the Japanese Painted Fern, which makes a good companion to Oxalis triangularis in a perennial setup.

They both have purple, which can create a nice matching color. Amaryllis is another good plant because of its complementary colors. Taller houseplants can match with the shorter shamrock 6 inches.

Don’t plant with

Avoid planting with other houseplants that crowd or shadow the light it needs to thrive.

This includes taller houseplants with large leaves that just block out light. If you plan to put shamrock next to other plants, make sure it gets its sunlight.

Dormancy

Shamrock enters dormancy during the beginning of summer. This plant doesn’t like the heat, so whenever the temps pick up, it’ll go into sleeping mode.

It can also happen if there’s a heat wave going on or if you don’t water it enough. Sometimes wide temperature swings can also make it go into early dormancy.

The stems will drop and the flowers will sag. If you find that your shamrock randomly entered dormancy, you can stop watering and fertilizing. The leaves will turn yellow or brown over time.

Then they’ll drop off. Prune the foliage that’s dead. Relocate the pot to a cooler spot in your place. Then leave it there for the next month or so.

For natural dormancy, you’ll want to give a rest period.

Green leaf shamrock will usually stay dormant for up to 90 days. Purple leaves will sleep for 30 days.

When the new offshoots start to show up, it’s good to go again. Dormancy is over. Your shamrock is awake. Congrats. You can put it back to its original location, begin feeding and resume watering.

For dormancy stemming from stress or heat, follow the same steps. You can’t snap it out of dormancy. It needs to rest before it’ll produce. So let it be. Fix whatever the issue was that caused the dormancy in the first place.

The dormant period will vary depending on the cultivar and local growing conditions. As soon as you see the new shoots, then dormancy is broken. Resume care to get rewarded with those pretty leaves and plentiful blooms.

Container growing

Choose a container that’s porous like terra cotta, clay, or stone. These materials help absorb and evaporate water so it doesn’t pool in the pot. Avoid plastics or pots that are nonporous.

Be sure it doesn’t have some special coating, such as glaze. This defeats the purpose. The container should be at least 5 inches wide with multiple holes to drain.

Growing outside

Shamrock can be grown outside similarly to how you’d grow it indoors, but time and time again, it produces more flowers and nicer foliage when grown out of direct sunlight in a cooler environment.

If you’re looking to grow it in your garden, you can do so if you’re in zones 8-11. In cooler climates, you can grow it inside and then bring it out in the summer for more sunlight.

Plant it in part sun and well-draining soil. You can even put shamrock outside for a few hours during the summertime for more sun.

The tiny bulbs can be planted in the fall or spring depending on your zone. It’s usually an indoor plant, but you can plant it outside if you’re in the right zone. Not too hot. Not too cold. It’s goldilocks.

Pests

Oxalis doesn’t have any pest issues for the most part. There are a handful of bugs that are commonly found munching on those precious shamrock leaves.

They’re usually thrips, whiteflies, vine weevils, blackflies, root bugs, mealybugs, spider mites, and worms. The majority of these bugs can be controlled by insecticidal sprays.

Keeping your plant inside your house will keep the bugs out. If you see aphids on it, remove them by spraying down your plant.

Diseases

Shamrock is pretty hardy to most pathogens, but there are a few that you need to watch out for. First is ring spot. The yellow rings on the leaves is the common sign of it. It can be controlled by removed the plant from its container and removing the affected leaves/shoots with sterilized pruners.

Fungal rust is another issue. This looks like orange or brown spots on the leaves. Remove the plant an then wash it completely, then replace it. Fungicidal soap may work well.

The last issue is root rot. This is what happens when you water too much without having enough drainage. Water less and ensure that the soil isn’t compacted.

Other common questions about shamrock care

This section contains questions from readers that are commonly asked about Shamrock.

You may find it useful. After all, this is a care sheet!

Please ask your questions using the form at the end of the page. We’ll be happy to get back to you.

How often should I water a shamrock plant?

Water when the top inch of soil is nearly dry. Use your finger to check. If you’re unsure, use a moisture meter instead. This can accurately gauge the water content in the soil so you never overwater.

Do shamrock plants need direct sunlight?

It depends on where you live and the ambient temperatures. If you’re in zones 8-11, you should be OK to put it near a south-facing window.

The sun should be filtered regardless. This will limit sun exposure and prevent scorching or burning of the tips.

Do shamrock plants like to be misted?

Yes, they do. You can mist it to keep the ambient humidity up if the air is dry in your house. A light misting will keep it moist, but don’t mist in place of watering.

Where should I place my shamrock plant?

Plae it 2-3 feet from a bright window. It shouldn’t be in direct sunlight. Use filtered light only.

What happens when a shamrock plant goes dormant?

It’ll turn yellow or brown with leaf drops. It’ll also stop producing blooms. Dormancy can be heat or stress-induced.

Both of which will require a rest period before they’ll resume growing those precious leaves again. So give it time and learn from environmental stressors.

Do shamrock plants like to be root bound?

Rootbound shamrock tends to produce more foliage and blooms compared to shamrock which has plenty of space for the roots.

This is because a smaller pot forces it to stop growing roots and refocus that energy on the flowers and foliage instead.

Can you overwater a shamrock plant?

Just like any other houseplant, overwatering is a primary killer of shammies. Never overwater your shamrock.

Only water it so it’s moist but never wet. The soil should be well draining so none of the water gets stuck in the pot. Let it go dry between waterings. If you overwater, it’ll introduce fungus or mold.

Root rot is also common with wet and poorly draining substrates.

How do you keep a shamrock plant from getting leggy?

If your shamrock gets thin or leggy, cut it back! Consider moving it to somewhere that gets more light. Leggy stems come from plants that are not reaching for light.

Why are the tips of my shamrock plant turning brown?

The tips turn brown because it’s either not getting enough nutrients or there’s too much light.

Move it to somewhere that doesn’t get as much light. Supplement with a plant fertilizer. Remove the browned tips using sterilized pruners

Are coffee grounds good for shamrock plants?

Shamrock can benefit from acidic soil which can be facilitated through the use of coffee because it’s naturally acidic.

You can lower the pH of your soil using sprinkled coffee right into the soil surface line, but don’t overdo it.

Remember that the potted container is a “closed” ecosystem, so if you put too much coffee in there, it can build up over time. Use only if your soil is too basic or neutral.

How do you make a shamrock bushy?

Keep the roots snug in the pot and trim it when it gets too tall. This will force it to grow sideways instead which may help encourage it to get bushier. Plant food will also aid denser foliage.

When should I repot my shamrock plant?

You should repot your shamrock when the roots are too snug and either coming out on the bottom of the pot.

If there’s not enough space, your plant will start to produce fewer blooms. Repot to a larger pot 2” bigger in diameter than the previous one.

Keep the same height between the old and new pots.

Further reading/references

Check out these sources for more detailed info about shamrock plants:

• Shamrocks, Oxalis spp. – Wisconsin Horticulture
• Shamrocks as Houseplants – Penn State Extension

• Oxalis oregana – Plants Wiki – Fandom

Grow shamrock at home

Shamrock is a one-of-a-kind plant that’s overshadowed by the holiday. Grow it anytime in your household and share it with friends when the holiday does come out.

Enjoy those purple or pink flowers the rest of the time.

Given that it’s a summer dormant houseplant, you can enjoy the flowers the rest of the season when your other houseplants sleep.

Shamrock will be perked up and shining.

The post How to Grow Shamrock (Beginner’s Care Sheet) appeared first on Gardenisms.

A lot of people don’t know how easy it is to propagate spider plants, but once they find out, they suddenly double their existing houseplant collection.

Try telling your friend how easy it is once you’ve done it yourself!

No expert skills are required. Propagating spider babies is super basic. Read on to find out how to do it.

Propagation methods

There are multiple ways to propagate spiderettes. You can either water root the plants, or you can plant directly into the soil.

Similar to pinstripes or butterwort, spider plants are beginner friendly.

Both have their own pros and cons, so let’s discuss which technique is for you.

For these methods to work, you need established spider plants to take the cuttings from.

You can get them from the local garden center, a friend, or a neighbor!

Planting into potting mix

You can root your spider babies right into potting soil if you want to keep it simple.

First, you’ll need to look for the spiderettes on the adult plant. They look like tiny knobs with roots on them, which are usually on the bottom of each plant.

Use plantlets that have some roots coming out of the stem. This shows that the plant is ready to be propagated. Use established plants with obvious aerial roots. It helps keep them in place.

Get a spray bottle and fill it with distilled, spring, or bottled water. Rain or filtered water both work too. Do NOT use dirty water or polluted water.

Get a small pot and fill it with a quality potting mix. You can use organic potting mix with coco-coir, peat moss, moss, or shredded leaves. It should have multiple drain holes on the bottom.

The pot should be 2 inches or bigger for one plant. Multiple spider plants will need larger pots so they get adequate space to root.

If you see the roots coming out of the drain hole or touching the edges or bunching up on the edges of the container, you need to get a bigger pot. Small plastic nursery pots are excellent.

They’re cheap and you can pick up a dozen for under $10 at most places.

For the potting soil, use houseplant soil. Do not use garden soil. Get something that’s high in organic materials so it can supplement the spiderettes root development.

Choose the largest spiderettes with the knobby protrusions, then snip them off with sterilized scissors or pruners.

You can sterilize it with rubbing alcohol. Fill up the pots about ¾ with a potting mix.

Don’t top them off all the way. They need some growing space between the top of the pot rim and the soil line.

Plant the spiderettes into the soil. Make sure you don’t cover the crown.

You’ll also need a small stick to help anchor the plant because it’ll fall over if you don’t have plant support.

Stick it into the soil somewhere in the middle and then make sure it’s secure.

Gently wrap the spiderette around the stick. You can wrap a single stem or tie it. Plant twine or those free twist ties from the grocery store work perfectly.

Keep the offset somewhere warm and bright with indirect sunlight.

Leave the baby spider plant attached to the original plant until you see new roots forming. When they root, you’ll see the new roots.

Cut the runner with a sterilized pruner and then separate the baby spider plant from the parent.

Baby plants will still root regardless of how you do it. The timing, setup, and environmental conditions are extremely forgiving of mistakes.

Water it regularly with a spray bottle. Keep the soil moist, but never waterlogged.

Never pour water directly into the baby spider plants pot. This will lead to root rot or fungus if it pools due to water pooling.

Keep it moist by spritzing it with a water bottle daily. If you’re watering too often, keep it moist by using a humidity dome.

If you’re feeling fancy, you can use a greenhouse, terrarium, or plant cover instead.

It’s easiest to use a hanging spider plant and then simply cut the babies from the host plant by cutting the runner.

Rooting in water

Planting in the soil is the easiest way to propagate, but you can alternatively root it in water.

This is much more exciting IMO. Rooting spiderettes in water is also a bit slower than soil planting but doesn’t need soil so you can save yourself the mess of dealing with dirt.

This method is cool if you use a glass container since you can see the plant itself. But you can use any container that holds water to do this.

Smaller glass jars are ideal because they’re easy to clean, manageable, and have that lip to hold the plant in place so it doesn’t topple.

Some people get creative and use everything from bottles to test tubes to yogurt cups.

The steps start out the same: Stick the baby plant in a mason jar or glass of water. Don’t use dirty water.

Use filtered, distilled, or rainwater. Springwater or bottled water is okay too. Place it in filtered sunlight and leave it there for 7-14 days.

Then you should see the roots slowly emerge over the course of two weeks. The plant can then be removed from the water and planted in a pot of soil after the runners have been snipped.

Plant it the same way as soil rooting.

The glass containers should be positioned with the babies above the rim.

Do NOT let the foliage go into the water. This will make them rot and useless since they can’t photosynthesize. You can use a rubber band or twine to hold them in place.

Make sure the container has enough water during rooting.

Use a marker to mark the edge of the tank or some other way if you don’t want to write on it just to keep the water level constant.

Make sure the containers are replenished regularly so the roots can feed. Change the water if it gets dirty.

Other tips:

• Choosing spiderettes to use for propagation is important. Choose only spider plants with smaller offsets.
• Visible aerial roots that have buds are critical to successful rooting. Leave the stem on the parent spider plant. Don’t cut it off. If you leave it, it can continue to produce babies for you to propagate. You gotta keep the golden goose.
• If you choose to root it in water, be sure to monitor the water quality.
• Refill it when it gets too low and keep it from going cloudy or moldy. If you notice fungus, there may be too much sunlight. Algae is also possible.
• If the roots get rotten, you need to replace the entire plant. Change the water if necessary, but use distilled water only. Keep the container warm at temperatures around 70-80F.
• The offsets will start to produce roots over time. You can check if it is rooted by giving it a small pull (gently).
• It should hold firmly in place without giving in. This lets you know it’s been rooted. But if it comes out, place it back. Give it some more time. You can reduce rooting time by increasing light, heat, and watering more often.
• The offsets will continue to grow in water. When you see at least 2 inches of root growth, it’s time to repot them. If you do it too early, they may suffer in the changing environment.
• The longer you wait, the more established they become so they tend to their new pots more kindly.
• You don’t have to move them into pots.
• You can keep them growing in water if you wish. Just be sure to upgrade to larger pots if you want to keep them going.
• Switch to using a watering can instead of a spray bottle.

By layering

Layering means cutting the baby plant after its roots. The other two methods (water and soil) require you to cut the offshoot first.

Layering means cutting the runners from the parent plant after its roots. That’s the major difference between the techniques.

This propagation method is nice because it allows you to get the babies prepped before you snip them off.

If you want to propagate your spider plant early on, you can do it using the power of layering spiderettes!

This method allows you to keep your spider babies with their runners intact while propagating it. The roots don’t need to be very developed to make this work.

This is how the plant does it natively. In nature, spider plants will produce offsets on their stems. There is no easier way to do it if you don’t wanna mess with it as much as possible.

To divide by layering, be sure to keep the potted host plant next to the baby plant.

You’ll get a new 2-3 inch pot, then put the baby plant inside it while keeping the adult plant on its own.

See how easy it is? No need to dig up or transplant your spiders.

Similar to the other propagation methods, you’ll need a plant with developed runners and baby spiderettes coming out.

Get a smaller planter. Fill it up with a potting mix that’s well-draining with plenty of organic matter for rooting it.

Fill it ¾ full with soil with a small gap between the rim of the pot and the soil surface.

Put the baby spider plant into its pot by dragging the stem across the two containers. The spiderette should be centered in the new pot.

If there isn’t enough “stem” to go across, put the pots closer together or use a smaller pot for the spiderette.

If the offset already has roots, dig out a small hole for the roots to live in, then firmly pack around them.

Use small pebbles to anchor the baby plant in place. A lot of other blogs may suggest using stones that are big enough to weigh it in place but don’t do this.

It just compacts the soil and makes it harder to root in my experience. Smaller pebbles combined with the soil weight are enough.

The pebbles can go in a full circle right around the spiderette. Be sure not to place them directly onto the roots.

Moisten the soil with a spray bottle. Use distilled or filtered water. Do this daily to keep it moist. Use a humidity dome if you want to water less.

When it roots, you can prune the runner using sterilized scissors or pruners. Then you’ll have a fully rooted baby spider plant in its own pot!

Test rooting by gently tugging on it. If it comes out, put it back followed by more time. If it doesn’t, it’s rooted.

Growing spider plant babies

If you want to plant multiple baby plants, you can do it. Plant them next to each other in a larger pot.

You can also place them next to the original one to flesh it out if you have voids or empty spaces.

Baby spider plants need more water so water it often to keep it moist, but never wet.

Use well-draining soil for potted plants, NOT garden soil.

When the new roots emerge, it indicates that the spider plant baby has successfully rooted to its new environment.

You can now move it to a normal care routine as with your adult plant or transplant it to another pot.

Tips, hints, and how to

Check out this section for some more tips on propagating spiderettes.

If you’ve still got Q’s, feel free to ask me direclty.

Can you propagate spider plants without babies?

You’ll need at least a small knob growing from the original host plant in order to propagate it.

If you don’t want to wait, use the layering method for quick results.

Otherwise, perhaps planting in water is easier.

You can start getting the baby to root without actually separating it into its own pot.

Where do you cut spiderettes?

Cut the spiderette runner from both at the base of the plant. Use sharp scissors that have been sterilized when pruning.

For regular pruning, remove all discolored or damaged foliage as needed.

Spiderettes should be cut back to the base from the parent plant and the baby plant.

How long does it take for spider plant babies to grow roots?

Spider plants will produce babies within 1-2 weeks.

When put into soil or water, you may see new roots form in as little as 2-3 days. Sometimes it can take up to 4 weeks to see results.

Warmer temperatures with more light speed up the root development.

How long does it take for spiderettes to root in water?

This largely depends on ambient conditions like temperature, humidity, sunlight, and more. Generally, you can expect the spiderette to root in water within 1-2 weeks.

Where do you cut a spiderette to propagate?

Spiderettes should be cut at the base of the plant where the runner connects to the baby spider plant and the parent plant. Cut at the base of both plants using sterilized pruners.

Should I water spiderettes before they root?

Yes, spiderettes should be watered during the rooting process for soil and layering propagation methods.

Obviously, you don’t need to water if you’re rooting in water, but you do need to change the water partially if it gets murky or algae forms.

The soil and layered baby plants need to be sprayed with moist water daily until they’ve rooted. Then you can switch to regular watering can routines as you do with your parent plants.

Is it OK to cut off spider plant babies?

Yes, it’s completely OK to cut them off if you’re propagating by soil or in water.

It’s actually necessary to cut them before you put them in water or in their own pot.

If you’re propagating by layering, you’ll cut the babies after they root.

If you’re growing in soil or water, you’ll cut them before they root.

Or if you don’t want any more babies because you have enough, you can snip off the knobs.

But why would you do that? Give them to your friends or neighbors~!

Can you leave spiderettes on the plant?

Yes, if you leave the spiderettes on the host plant, they’ll turn into baby spider plants with runners attached to the parent. Cut off the runners after the babies root to divide it. This is how they propagate in the wild. But be prepared for more baby spider plants!

When can I take cuttings from a spider plant?

You can take cuttings from a parent plant when it’s established and fully developed.

This is usually done in the spring or summer when it’s actively growing. Doing it in the winter when it halts growth may harm the plant.

Remove the babies when they have their own roots underneath.

When its roots are at least 0.5 inches, it’s ready to be propagated

Do spider plants like their roots to be crowded?

Spider plants don’t like their roots being crowded, but can tolerate it for a while before you need to move them to a larger tank.

When they come out of the holes on the bottom of the pot or they bunch into the corner, you need to change the pot to a bigger one.

Use hanging containers for spider plants because they allow for more space.

Plants grow and produce plantlets when they’re slightly pot-bound, so some crowding is good.

But they easily crowd, so watch out for that.

Further reading/references

• Spider plant, Chlorophytum comosum – WISC
• Spider Plant Care : r/houseplants – Reddit

Propagating spider babies is simple

Spider plants are ideal for beginners because they’re so easy to care for. Propagating them is even easier.

For a lot of people, diving your plants is a PITA. You gotta mess with soil, uproot the plant, and do all sorts of work while hoping not to mess it up.

For spider plants, the 3 different propagation methods (layering, soil, or water) make it easy to choose what works for you.

Got questions? Ask away by posting your comment.

The post How to Propagate Spiderette Babies (3 Methods) appeared first on Gardenisms.

With its towering slender canes and numerous orange/red blossoms, this desert native is hardy to drought, pests, neglect, and more.

How’s that for easy?

It’s one of those plants that you can just put in your garden and leave it alone. It thrives on neglect.

If you want to get the most juice from the squeeze, look into planting this bewildering cacti doppelganger in your desertscape.

Let’s dive in and learn how to grow and care for ocotillo.

Quick care guide: Ocotillo

What’s Ocotillo?

Ocotillo, also known as Fouquieria splendens, is a southwest plant that can be found in Mexico and the southern US.

This plant is known for its bright orange trumpet flowers with tall cane stalks.

It requires VERY little maintenance, so it’s perfect for beginners or those that don’t want to spend too much time in the garden.

If this is what you’re looking for, Ocotillo can be the desert touch your yard is missing.

You’ll find that it goes well with other cacti or succulents for creating a desert landscape for your desert home. A lot of people grow this to add some green without needing a lot of work or water.

Arizona, California, Nevada, Texas, etc. It grows in the Sonoran and Chihuahuan desert.

While not a true succulent, it’s considered to be semi-succulent at 6500ft above sea level.

They thrive in arid landscapes with their unique look. They’re very popular in xeriscape gardens.

Other names

Ocotillo has a few other aliases you may have heard before:

• Candlewood
• Coachwhip
• Vine cactus
• Slimwood
• Jacob’s Staff
• F. splendens
• Little Torch

Appearance

These desert plants grow upwards of 12 feet tall and over 10 feet wide on average, but a properly cared-for plant can go much taller.

They have red or orange trumpet flowers sitting on top of tall slender cane stalks. The plant does bloom.

Ocotillo looks like seaweed in the desert. It can be paired with other tall plants like cacti, which will complement the wavy canes of the ocotillo. The branches are spiny, but it’s not a cactus. It’s a desert shrub.

The leaves are simple, alternative, and elliptical. They’re about 3.5cm in length.

Secondary leaves are smaller. This plant thrives in the flat desert with other shrubs.

It’s deciduous, meaning that the leaves are completely dropped in the winter. They only grow in the summer and spring, when the orange flowers will blossom all over the slender canes.

Why grow it?

That’s a good question. A lot of people grow ocotillo because it requires little maintenance, is drought tolerant, and can withstand desert temperatures down to 10F before it starts to wilt.

It can be purchased from the nursery and then replanted in the garden with ease when it’s still manageable. It also doesn’t need any work nearly all season other than occasional watering or pruning.

Plus, it looks awesome. This plant can attract beneficial pollinators to your yard, such as bees and hummingbirds.

Is it poisonous?

No, ocotillo isn’t poisonous to the touch, but the canes can be sharp.

So always wear gloves to protect yourself. It’s spiny and can hurt.

Is it beginner friendly?

Yes, ocotillo is very easy to grow and good for beginners.

Once you get it set up and rooted, it takes care of itself.

You only need to water it and prune it. It may require some plant supports when it grows taller.

But otherwise, it’s hands-off.

How to propagate ocotillo

Planting ocotillo is very easy. There is an ideal time to do it and multiple ways to grow it.

You can buy then transplant ocotillo, or start from seed. Transplanting is the easiest and gives you a head start to enjoy those nice blooms.

If you start from seed, it’s going to take some time, so that’s why I’d advise you to seek out a reputable nursery and then buy a few to bring home.

It will easily get used to its new plot in your garden when done correctly, so don’t be scared. Just follow the steps outlined below.

Starting from seed

If you choose to propagate from seed, sow outside in the spring.

If conditions are unfavorable outdoors, sow inside a greenhouse or indoors.

Sow in well-draining soil where they can get full sunlight. You can use a cactus potting mix.

Plant each seed 1” deep with a light tamp of soil. They should be planted in their pots, each kept slightly moist with light mistings.

Spray the seedlings every other day. Cover with a humidity dome.

Germination takes up to two weeks, but the plant will need to be transplanted outside when spring comes. The temperatures should be fairly warm when moving outside.

Harden off by exposing it for a few hours each day to the elements outside. Exposed to full sunlight, then take it back in over two weeks. Increase the period of exposure daily.

Move into the garden when it’s acclimated.

Transplanting ocotillo

Transplanting is the way to go IMO.

It skips the long germination period and lets you enjoy the flowers and the tall canes much more quicker.

Starting from seed is only for those who want the challenge.

Otherwise, just transplant by buying one from your nursery or garden center. You’ll be glad you did when you see the first few blooms in the springtime!

The ideal time to transplant is in March through May. This is when the ocotillo is actively growing so it has a higher chance of rooting in its new home (your garden).

Plant a bare-root stub in organic, loose soil. The soil should be sandy with plenty of organically rich substrate to help provide the nutrients it needs to root properly.

Plant only facing south if it’s been marked on the south side.

Don’t mix up the direction or else it’ll turn leggy or wilt. The plant may need plant support if you’re transplanting a bigger one (you may also need a helper).

Plant it with large stones covering the root zone (about 3 inches out from the ocotillo’s trunk). This will keep it anchored down so it doesn’t topple over.

If you’re in a windy zone, you need some kind of support. The planting area should be free of drafts and have ample sunlight.

Water should never pool near the root zone.

Grow from cuttings

If your neighbor or friend has a fully grown ocotillo, you can grab some cuttings from them and plant them yourself.

Note that ocotillo is a protected plant in some states, so don’t just go cutting random ocotillo you find in the wild. You’ll need at least 12 inches of softwood cuttings from a grown plant.

Grab a 1-gallon or 3-gallon pot, then fill it with rich, high-quality soil. It should have some degree of organic material in there to help root. The soil should also be well draining.

If the temperatures outside are within a respectable range, you can plant it directly into the soil in your garden instead. But if not, then use a container and sow the cutting indoors.

Carefully cut off the bottom 5 inches of foliage. Then supply rooting hormone if you wish.

This is the cut end, by the way. There should be no leaves at least 5 inches from the end you cut. Leaves that remain towards the tip are fine.

Put the branch into the soil and cover the section that you cleared. So it should be sitting pretty about 5-7 inches into the pot. Keep the pot in a full sun location with ambient temperatures above 65F.

You can put it in your garden if the conditions are nice. Place a water saucer under the planter. Keep the soil moist, but never wet. Water it once every other week in normal conditions. If excessively dry, water once per week. The water should drain into the saucer every time. If not, replant it.

The ocotillo is ready to be moved into the garden when the plant is noticeably producing new leaves.

Give it a slight tug to feel if it’s been rooted.

How to grow ocotillo

Here are some quick and dirty tips for growing this desert shrub. You’ll find that it’s very basic, just like most desert plants.

Hardiness zone

Ocotillo prefers arid, dry, and hot climates with full sun exposure. USDA hardiness zones 8-11 are ideal for this desert native.

If you’re in a higher zone, you may need to water more often. For lower zones, the plant must be kept in full sun away from artificial sun blockers like buildings or other plants.

Soil type

The soil used must be well draining with some organic compounds mixed in.

This helps root development and will keep water from pooling, which may lead to root rot or fungal issues.

Use a potting mix for cacti or succulents. Mix in some organic plant supplements if it’s lacking. Use a loose, loamy, sandy substrate that’s not firm and won’t compact.

Soil pH

The soil pH should be on the basic side, with a pH range of 7.5-9.0 for ideal flower production.

You can raise the pH of your soil naturally using lime (dolomite or agricultural). Baking soda also works, but should be used sparingly.

Plant depth

The seeds should be planted 1” from the soil line and lightly covered.

If transplanting, it should be planted at the same root depth as the original plant. If growing from cuttings, plant at least 5 inches deep.

Plant spacing

Each ocotillo should be clear from nearby plants because it can grow over 10 feet wide. This can make it compete for nutrients or even cover the light source of plant neighbors (which is why you may need to prune it).

If you plan to grow multiple ocotillos, space them at least 10 feet apart from one another so they don’t get into a tangled mess.

Temperature

Ocotillo can tolerate temperatures as low as 10F before they start to suffer. Ideally, they should be grown in a temp range between 80-100F.

They grow in the Sonoran desert where temperatures can average up to 90F with minimal rainfall (less than 10″).

They can handle some temp swings as the desert is known for this kind of environment.

If you’re in zones 8 or higher, you should be fine. Just make sure it gets a full day of unfiltered sunlight daily.

Then it’ll thrive happily and produce those flowers for you.

Humidity

The ocotillo shrub loves dry conditions. Low humidity levels that span under 20% are normal.

If it’s too wet, it may not produce the volume of flowers compared to drier conditions.

Sunlight

Ocotillo should be planted in a full sun environment with a south-facing direction.

If the plant is covered or the light is blocked by some other foliage or object, it won’t produce as many flowers in the spring. Make sure it gets plenty of sunlight- at least 8 hours per day.

Plant in a wide open area with no tall objects that can block precious sunlight.

Watering

The ocotillo is highly efficient and requires very little water to thrive. It’s drought-tolerant and will only require irrigation once in a while.

When you do water, avoid overwatering the soil because this can pool and lead to rot. The proper way to water is to spray the cane and keep the soil moist, but never wet.

If you’re in a hot and dry area, you can water once daily for new plants. For established ocotillo, only require watering once per month.

Only younger plants should be watered often. Don’t overwater larger plants or you can introduce pathogens especially if the soil is bad quality.

Plant food

Plant food and fertilizer are unnecessary. Ocotillo is one of those plants that do well when left alone.

The more you mess with it, the higher chance of you hurting it. Don’t use plant food unless necessary.

It may even reduce the number of flowers you get seasonally. If you want more flowers, try not to use plant food. Remember That this plant is very tough and can handle itself!

Mulching

Mulching is not necessary either.

The time you need to mulch is if temperatures are expected to drop below 10F. Add 2-3 inches of mulch around the root zone to help insulate it from the cold.

Remove the mulch in spring. Ensure the mulch never touches the trunk of the ocotillo because this can introduce pathogens.

Pruning

Pruning can be done much less than you think. The plant only needs to be pruned when you see ugly or damaged cane stalks.

Remove the wood from the ocotillo using a sterilized pair of pruners (use rubbing alcohol).

When ocotillos hit the 3-year mark, they’ll need to be pruned around that time to keep them tidy. When pruned, the plant will die back. This is expected.

The plant will need some watering during this time. But don’t be alarmed. Even though it’s stressful on the plant, it’s necessary to stop it from wasting energy on unwanted canes.

This is why you need to prune, but do not do it so often or you’ll put your plant under constant stress.

Most ocotillo will do fine if left on their own. Just regular watering monthly for established ones. That’s all there is to it.

Prune ocotillo in the fall or winter when it’s not actively growing or producing flowers.

Maintenance

Ocotillo requires no maintenance other than watering and pruning. When you prune, use gardening gloves and a lopper.

Cut the canes completely off to the soil level.

Don’t leave a partially pruned cane as this can introduce pathogens. The more you leave it alone, the more it thrives.

So don’t mess with it if you don’t need to.

Overwintering

There is no overwintering needed for ocotillo.

Being that it’s such a hardy desert shrub, it can handle temperatures as low as 10F. If you expect that it’ll get even cooler, then you can keep it warm by applying a layer of mulch around the trunk.

This should cover the root system but never touch the drunk directly.

You can also use burlap wraps or other plant wraps. But for most purposes, you won’t need to worry about winterizing ocotillo.

Seed saving

Collect ocotillo seeds to save them for replanting!

You can harvest the seeds in late summer when the flowers start to fade and change into seeds.

The seeds can be stored in an envelope and used shortly afterward. Seeds should never be taken from native plants, only captive ones.

You’ll notice that the flower loses its color. It’ll quickly change to seeds. This is when you can harvest them.

Container growing

Ocotillo can be grown in a pot if the container is larger enough.

You’ll have to continually get larger pots whenever the plant is rootbound (roots coming out of the drain holes). The pot should be one size larger than before. If you grow in a container, they don’t need any root pruning before you plant.

What container size for ocotillio?

For sizing, 5 inch pots are good for cuttings.

For younger plants, 5 gallon containers are suitable.

For larger plants, it varies. Size up when rootbound.

Companion plants

There are plenty of companions that go well with ocotillo’s staggering height.

Some popular desert natives include Salvia, Russian Sage, Golden Barrel Cactus, Artichoke Agave, Aloe, Lady’s Slipper, Crown of Thorns, Skullcap, Dwarf Sundrops, Fame Flower, Thrift Leaf Perky Sue, Santa Rita Prickly Pear, Agastache, Succulents, and more.

Any southwestern-style plants with a desert landscape go well with it.

Don’t plant with

You should never plant it with other short plants that need full sun. The tall canes will block sunlight nearby and starve them.

Only plants with hardy plants can tolerate partial light.

Ocotillo can be planted with other identical plants, but space them so they get plenty of room to thrive without competing for nutrients.

Pests

There are no particular pests that’ll finest ocotillo. It thrives in the desert and there are a few bugs that feed on plants in this environment.

So you have nothing to worry about regarding bugs.

There may be rodents that occasionally will feed on the foliage or flowers, but these can be ridden by using physical barriers or rodent bait. But foremost gardeners, this is not an issue.

Some insects have been seen on ocotillo, such as scale or other sucking insects. These can be ridden with insecticidal soap.

You may also see mealybugs which leave behind white web-like cotton. These can be removed with rubbing alcohol.

Other than those, you won’t find many ocotillo pests. It’s not prone.

Diseases

This plant has no known issues. It’s more common to see pests instead.

Usage scenarios

There are many usage scenarios that you can utilize in your setup. It depends on what kind of look you’re going for.

Ocotillo does well in xeriscapes or southwestern gardens. It can grow tall to provide shade or privacy for your home if you want it.

They can also bring more wildlife to your yard. They can bring in bees, insects, and birds to help pollinate your other flowering plants.

Ocotillo can be planted in rows to build fences as well. They can be defensive against unwanted rodents because of their sharp spines.

Be sure to keep pets and people out of the zone as they can puncture skin easily.

Other common questions about Ocotillo care

This section contains questions from readers that are commonly asked about ocotillo.

You may find it useful. After all, this is a care sheet! Please ask your questions using the form at the end of the page.

How often should you water an ocotillo?

For established plants:

• Water once per month or when the plant droops. If it’s excessively hot or dry, water more often.

For younger plants:

• Water daily for about 10 minutes per day. Reduce watering when established.

Why does my ocotillo look dead?

This is likely because you pruned it recently.

When pruned, it’ll shrink down for some time until it adjusts to its new cut. With care, it should return to normal after a few weeks.

The plant is very hardy, so don’t be alarmed, but don’t prune when it’s not necessary. They’re common and adaptable desert plants.

Should you fertilize ocotillo?

No. Avoid fertilizing. Just give it high-quality soil with plenty of organic matter for it to feed.

Do ocotillos lose their leaves in the winter?

Yes, the leaves have dropped completely. It’s a deciduous shrub, so it’ll shed its foliage in the wintertime.

In the spring, the green will return so it can grow those pretty orange-red flowers for you. No need to fret.

Can an ocotillo get too much water?

Yes, if you overwater it, it can pool at the base. This can introduce root rot or fungus.

Never overwater your ocotillo. Only water when necessary. Use well-draining soil that doesn’t pool.

How often should you water an ocotillo?

Water weekly during the summer and once or twice per month in the winter.

When it reaches about 1-2 years, you can reduce watering.

How do I get my ocotillo to bloom?

Blooming is directly affected by rain. Too much or too little irrigation will cause the flowers to halt blooming.

They’re sensitive to water, and soil type, and need plenty of organic nutrients in the gritty soil. Low fertility is a good thing to keep it going.

Do ocotillos have deep roots?

They’re shallow. These plants should be watered with a hose by spraying the cane, not the roots, or else you may disturb them.

Are ocotillos hard to grow?

No, they’re easy to grow. They require little care and are good for those with little time to take care of their garden.

How long does it take for ocotillo to root?

Ocotillo that’s been replanted from cuttings, transplanted, or relocated takes a very long time to root. It can take up to 2 years to regrow their root systems. Once done, the ocotillo is considered to be established.

Can you grow ocotillo indoors?

You can germinate the seeds or cuttings inside your home or a greenhouse, but you’ll have to move it to your garden when it’s ready. Be sure to harden it off before you expose it to the elements.

How much does an ocotillo cost?

They cost about $10-$400 depending on the pot size. Larger plants will cost more.

Further reading/references

• Fouquieria splendens – AZ U
• Ocotillo – nmsu.edu
• Ocotillo – Albuquerque Academy

Grow your own ocotillo!

Now that you know the basics of growing and caring for this desert beauty, go ahead and grow your own.

They’re perfect for beginners and suitable for any southwestern-style garden. Xeriscapes, rock gardens, desertscapes, etc.

They’re all suitable for this plant and will make a welcome addition to complete the look. If you need a tall desert bush, this is an easy, low-maintenance, gorgeous flowering shrub that’ll do the trick.

Ocotillo is the real deal for a no-frills, simple but gorgeous desert shrub.

Please let me know if you have any questions! I hope you enjoyed my guide.

The post How to Grow Ocotillo (Beginner’s Care Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.