Who’d wanna give up those pretty blooms towering on the dark green stalks of foliage!

Not I. That’s for sure. I’ve worked too hard for my blooms to be killed by the winter. So that’s why you winterize it! Then you can see them all over again next season.

When grown under optimal conditions, this shrub produces a variety of pink, white, and orange flowers. It’s known for its numerous blossoms throughout the summer.

It’s also extremely virulent because it can sustain sweltering temperatures, drought, deer, and even salt.

You may think that oleander is an all-around hardy plant. Until you bring up the subject of winter.

Nope. Oleander has poor tolerance to the cold. So this is why people freak out over winterizing it.

It will grow as a perennial, but only if it’s kept warm enough. For people in USDA hardiness zones 8-11, you should have minimal issues getting it to overwinter.

But if you’re in a cooler zone, there are some things you need to do to keep it safe throughout the cold.

Some people have successfully winterized oleander even in zones 4, 5, 6, or 7, which are unrelenting in the cold.

How is this even possible in temperatures that dip below 5F?

There are some tricks you can do to help it thrive throughout the winter. But you’ll need to take action.

Oleander doesn’t fare well on its own if you’re in no man’s land. It does need winter protection for these zones.

Now let’s go over everything you need to know to overwinter oleander.

Poison warning

Oleander may be pleasant to look at, but it’s extremely dangerous to touch or ingest. This is why you should always wear protective equipment when handling this plant.

If ingested, it can be fatal to people or pets. Thus, if you’re keeping oleander indoors for the winter, you NEED to keep it out of reach from pets or people.

Oleander is poisonous, so you may not want to bring it indoors to overwinter it. Take steps to protect yourself and others.

Always wear gloves, sleeves, and other protective gear when touching it. All parts of the plant should be assumed as poisonous as they can cause skin irritation or other reactions from the saponins.

What hardiness zones need to winterize oleander?

Oleander will tolerate the cold in zones 8 or higher. Most oleanders grown within the warmer zones can be left on their own without an issue.

Feel free to cut them back or shape them for the winter. This will help prevent pests from eating the foliage as it wilts back.

Zones 3-7 will have difficulty keeping them going through the winter because temps can dip below 5F. If you don’t winterize it, it can be severely damaged by the elements.

This is when you need to do some work to keep them safe!

So in summary:

• Zones 8 or higher just need regular pruning for the winter. Watch out for temperature dips. If these are expected, you may have to put some mulch to help insulate it. You Can grow it as a perennial in the garden without worry.
• Zones 7 or lower need to winterize their N. oleander.

What temperature can oleander tolerate?

10F is the key temperature to keep in mind. Anything colder than this will harm your plant.

How to winterize oleander

This section covers a variety of techniques you can practice to help your oleander sustain over the wintertime.

Depending on your USDA hardiness zone, you may be able to sneak by with minimal interference. If it gets too cold, then yeah, you’ll need to use some more extreme techniques.

Read through the following list and see which applies to your local climate.

Know the climate patterns

While no one can predict the weather, you can often get a feel for the upcoming dips in temperature.

You need to know when the temp is getting close to 10F so you can be prepared. If you’re too late to act, it can kill your plant.

Keep a gardening journal so you know when to expect the cold snap to take place. Keep tabs on the weather so you can anticipate when the temps may be getting to the danger zone.

While established oleander can handle the cold and even snow, you need to move it inside before this happens. No two seasons are alike, but the dates should be approximate.

Plant your oleander using pots!

This is the most critical piece of advice you can get in regards to success winterizing oleander. Plant them in pots.

This makes it possible to move them to shelter in the event of a cold snap. If you planted it in the soil, you’re not going to be able to uproot it to move it around, especially once it becomes established.

Plan if you’re in a zone expecting temperatures to dip in winter to levels that oleander can’t tolerate.

While it’s possible to dig them up, they don’t take well to it. And it’s not worth the time/effort you need to put into it when you can just plant it in a pot in the first place.

So why not just do it right from the start?

Put the container on a rolling cart. This will make it easier to move it without hurting yourself. Fully sized oleander is extremely heavy and you won’t be able to remove it from the pot without professional help.

Heavy pots will be a common denominator.

So if you have a rolling cart to put the pot on, it’ll help when you need to move it later for the changing seasons. It’ll encourage you to do so too. Who wants to lift waterlogged oleander?

Choose smaller oleander varieties (dwarves)

Picking a smaller variety of oleander will help make it easier on you during the move. Some species only grow up to 3 feet tall.

Consider growing these species into pots so you can bring them inside the house without much hassle.

If you’re in a cooler zone, you’ll have to compensate for the winter by growing a smaller variety.

Use a lightweight planter

Picking the right size, material, and type of container makes a huge impact later on. Everything from how well your oleander fares to how much water it retains completely depends on the planter you choose.

For starters, make sure it has proper drainage.

It should have multiple drainage holes so it doesn’t get clogged. Get the largest container necessary for your plant type, but nothing more so it doesn’t need to be bulkier than it is.

Choose a lightweight material so that it’s lighter to move. Plastic is cheap, light, and colorful, but has near zero insulation.

On the other hand, materials like terra cotta are heavy, but they hold their temperature. This is important because they heat up during the day and carry it into the night which can help insulate your oleander from sudden temperature swings.

Mulch before the storm

If your plant is less than 12-14” in height, try adding some mulch around the base of the plant. This will insulate the roots from winter damage.

It also helps keep the soil wet and retain moisture. Mulching is winterizing 101. It’s the most straightforward way to do it.

When you put the mulch, apply it around the base of the stem and over the roots. If you miss a spot, it can cut off circulation to a portion of your plant. For younger plants, this is imperative.

Established oleander, they don’t need as much care as they’ve developed hardiness to the cold. Ensure that all the roots are covered with thick layers of mulch. Avoid patting down. The primary stem shouldn’t be touching the mulch layer as this may introduce fungal problems.

In a potted plant, this is easy to do. Just cover the entire soil surface with mulch. For garden sown plants, it can be hard to know where the roots are going.

But then again, you shouldn’t be planting your oleander directly into the soil if you’re somewhere that gets too cold. It needs portability.

Use plant wraps

Cover up those plants with some burlap wraps, felt, wool, paper, or plastic. With wraps, they can keep your plants warm for brief temperature drops.

These are NOT a solution to use all winter. They’re just easy solutions for when the temperatures hover around that 40-50F zone.

Wrap as much of the primary stems, then remove when temperatures pick up again. Keeping them on may wilt the plant as they can block photosynthesis. These are a cheap way to winterize oleander, but require it to be pruned first.

Try cold frames

Cold frames can be used for smaller seedling oleanders. You can buy or build a DIY cold frame. They’re excellent for cooler temperatures where you can’t move the oleander indoors.

While they do require some work to set up, they’re a good solution to keep around the plant so you can block out the cold on cue.

This video shows you how to use a cold frame for oleander so you get an idea of how they work:

If you’re handy, you can build one for a cheap custom. They’re actually pretty neat.

Install plant covers

Plant covers can be used for smaller oleander seedlings. There are also larger sizes, but it may not be practical to cover such a large bush because of the unwieldiness.

But for smaller shrubs, you can cover them with plant covers to safeguard them from bugs, temperature swings, and sun.

These are not meant to be a permanent solution. They’re only to be used for smaller dips in temperature. The material will affect how well the cover insulates the oleander itself.

Plant in a greenhouse

Planting inside a temperature-controlled greenhouse can be suitable for oleander throughout the season.

This will ensure that you’ll never have to worry about it being too cold. If you don’t want to keep it there throughout the season, you can move it outside from spring to fall.

Remember that it’s important to keep the temperatures above 40F, but it still needs a cold period so it knows it’s wintertime. If you don’t, it’ll never know when it’s winter so it can mess up the production.

Prune your oleander before the winter

Keep your oleander well pruned so the ends you cut off will be ready for winter. The ideal time to do this is in the late summertime.

Start by cutting back the tips to shape and tidy it up.

Remove spent flowers, cut ugly branches, and trim them down to a compact size. This will make it easier to move around for the cold season. Prune after it blooms in the autumn so you don’t have to do it later.

By pruning after flowers, you get to enjoy the blooms without sacrificing them for the winter. Cut the flowering shoots to half size. Tip prune the other shoots.

Oleander doesn’t need to be pruned every year, but doing so helps encourage flowering and makes it easier to bring inside.

How to overwinter oleander

When it’s too cold out, you can bring your oleander inside your house for temporary shelter. In cooler zones, this “temp” shelter may be all winter shelter.

If you planned ahead for this and planted your plants in pots, then you’re good to go.

Simply move the entire plant indoors. Give it a good trim so it doesn’t wilt its foliage everywhere. Then place it somewhere that recipes some dappled sunlight.

For storage of just a few days, the garage is fine. This is good for temp dips that only last a day or two. But if you think that the cold will be for quite some time, then indoor storage is needed.

There are some things you need to know before bringing it inside. Oleander isn’t tolerant of being moved around just like that. It also doesn’t fare well indoors for extended periods, so you want to get it back outside ASAP.

When to bring oleander inside

A common question asked by readers is knowing when to move oleander indoors for the winter. The answer is to watch the weather forecast.

When your local temperature starts to hover around 20F, it’s time to start moving them in. Your plant should be pruned by now. Do some extra tidying up if necessary.

Wash the container to get rid of bugs/debris so you don’t track them into your house.

Some of the buildups may need some extra oomph to remove it. Use a sponge with some soapy water to break down the dirt. Check for bug infestations.

Then examine the dirt for crawling insects. If you get the green light, then go ahead and bring it in!

Where to put oleander for the winter

Oleander will need shelter that’s at least 40F or higher. They require bright lighting, so place them near a bright window or other sources of light.

If you have a garage with a backdoor, this can be a perfect setup.

Sheds or greenhouses can also be used for temporary shelter. Don’t place oleander heated rooms or near HVAC units.

This can dry them out or make them wilt. Additionally, place it where pets or people won’t come into contact with it. Oleander is toxic.

Caring for oleander during the winter

Please note once again, if you’re bringing it inside, make sure to keep your pets and people away from it. Oleander will be irritated.

Otherwise, enjoy those festive blooms and intoxicating aromas.

If you give it the right TLC, it’ll produce an abundance of blooms for the springtime. Then you can say you’ve enjoyed your oleander all year round, bud!

If cooler temperatures are consistent in your area, consider getting a pot that you’ll never need to replace.

This will make it much easier on yourself since you don’t need to uproot or switch pots later on. It should be able to hold the entire root system of the plant.

When the plant is sitting inside your house, reduce watering. Oleander doesn’t require much water during the winter.

Use your finger to feel the 2-3 inches of soil. Water only when it completely dries out. Use a moisture meter if you’re not sure when to water.

It’s more important to avoid overwatering at this point as pooling water will bring in pests and fungal issues.

Oleander doesn’t grow as much in the cold, so there’s no reason to continue watering it so much. It doesn’t uptake nearly as much water as it does during peak summer.

The same goes for plant food. There’s no need to fertilize it during the winter. The only thing it needs is bright light and supplemental water. That’s it. Even pruning can be forged.

Keep your plant in a dry, cool (but not warm) location from November through February.

Other than this, winterizing oleander is easy. In the early spring, you can slowly increase the light it receives and the amount of water you give it.

Fertilizing is still not necessary.

When to put oleander back outside following winterizing

Oleander should be placed back outside when the local temperature rises above 40F. Once the climate stabilizes outside, it’s time to move it back out!

Oleander, being as resilient and hardy as it is, still requires time to acclimate and adapt back to the elements outside.

It’s easy, so don’t fret.

Take the entire plant outside to a partially shaded area. Let it sit for a few hours each day. Then bring it back in. Do this for 1-2 weeks until it gets used to the “real” sun outside and then you can promote it back into the garden.

It’s imperative to watch the forecast for weather changes during this period. If you expect a cold dip, then halt the process and wait it out. If done correctly, your oleander should never experience temperatures below 40F.

Being gradual is key.

Over time, gently provide more water, light, and outside exposure to the elements. 1-3 hours per day is enough. Risking too much will shock the plant from the changing environment.

Oleanders are hardy to 35F, and some even down to 10F or 5F. But this range of cold temps is already too much for these bush plants to handle for an extended period.

For gardeners in the northern zones, they’re not too hardy and should be wintered indoors or in a sheltered location.

Set the oleander out in the late spring when the ambient temperatures are warm enough for it to thrive. Continue your regular watering schedule, give it some plant food, and enjoy those blooms.

You can encourage it to grow by supplementing it with high-quality plant food. Liquid general purpose plant fertilizer with NPK ratio 30-10-10 is excellent indoors.

Once it’s time to move it out for good, use a 20-20-20 balanced fertilizer to feed it.

Oleander dormancy

Oleander will go dormant during the winter, just like any other flowering shrub (think baneberry or forsynthia). This is normal for its natural cycle for it to properly produce.

The cooler weather will encourage leaf drop, which is normal. It’ll also slow down the production of flowers, foliage, etc. Sunlight does the opposite.

It tells the oleander when it’s time to end dormancy. Combined with warming temperatures, it’ll snap out of winter dormancy so it can continue producing.

Commonly asked questions

This section covers some questions often asked by readers. You may get some tips/tricks out of them that you can apply to your situation.

If you’re still confused about how to winterize your shrub, post your comments using the form following this care sheet.

How cold is too cold for oleander?

Oleander can handle temperatures as low as 5-10F, but this should never be practical in the real world. You should keep ambient temperatures above 40F or else you risk damaging the shrub.

This is why it’s important to winterize it for those in northern zones or if you’re outside of USDA zones 8+.

Can oleanders survive a hard freeze?

Not likely. It’ll need some protection over the winter because that is the one thing that oleander doesn’t tolerate.

Since it’s a huge plant, it can be difficult to get it under shelter. This is why people struggle with it.

Will oleander come back after winter?

Oleander is a perennial, so it’ll come back if proper care is provided.

Do oleanders turn brown in winter?

The shrub will turn brown when winter damage is present. This is common in the northern end of the shrub’s hardiness zones. Prune these parts off if possible.

Do oleanders lose their leaves in winter?

Oleander will drop leaves in the cold. This is expected when the temperatures get cooler. It’ll drop its foliage, flowers, and leaves. It may also change colors to brown or yellow from the elemental damage.

Should you deadhead?

Deadheading is necessary before you winterize your diet. There’s no reason to keep the spent flowers on the tips. Remove them before you bring them inside.

It’s ugly and serves no purpose other than bringing pests. Regularly pruning it will help get more blooms.

What is the hardiest oleander?

Nerium oleander Hardy Red is a resilient plant. It can withstand colder temperatures much more tolerable than other types.

Picking the hardiest oleander is a good idea if you’re in a cooler zone. Hardy Red produces abundances of large loose clusters of funnel-shaped flowers. It fits well inside a pot so you can overwinter it easily.

Further reading/references

• Oleander: Pretty But Poisonous – HGTV
• Nerium – Wikipedia

Winterizing oleander is easy

Now that you know everything you need to know about overwintering this perennial ornamental, do you feel more confident?

It’s not hard. It’s just the bulkiness of moving it. That’s the most difficult part, IMO.

Once you find a suitable location for it to go into winter dormancy, then it’s just giving it some water, ensuring there’s enough light, and watching out for temperature changes.

When the spring rolls around, bring it back out slowly and let it get accustomed to the outside world again. That’s it!

Got questions? Post ‘em using the form at the end of this page!~

Happy wintering. Oleander will bloom for you year after year if you give it some basic TLC.

The post How to Winterize Oleander (Overwintering Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

This grass needs nearly no maintenance once it’s established.

It’s drought tolerant, deer resistant, and even tolerates salty soil.

Monkey grass has dark green foliage, but can also be lime green depending on sun exposure. There’s even a dwarf variety that’s purple-black.

It even blooms in season. And it fruits- but you can’t eat it.

Some types of mondo grass are tall- reaching up to 12 inches in captivity. Others are dwarf, which only get up to 3 inches or so. You can even replace your lawn with it.

It can be used for nearly everything- from plant cover to hide those ugly parts of your garden to filling the spaces between the gaps.

You’ll be glad to know that you can grow monkey grass in a wide range of hardiness zones. If you’re reading this and your local climate is relatively warm, mondo grass is for you!

Let’s learn about how to grow and care for this pretty ornamental grass.

(Background of featured image by By Loadmaster, Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, .)

Quick care guide: Mondo grass

What’s mondo grass?

Mondo grass, also known as monkey grass or lilyturf grass, is one cool plant.

This weirdly named grass is a low-hanging, mounding grass that is perfect for covering up ugly voids in your garden.

While it’s not obvious, it’s also very easy to care for and requires little to no care once established.

While not true grass, these perennials look like dense, clumped bunches of thin narrow leaves. They can be lime green to black and are extremely low maintenance. They’re actually a type of lily, part of the Ophiopogon genus.

They can cover up a large part of your yard, even with just a few plants. The leaves provide plenty of shade for shorter plants. The evergreen blades of grass look great in bright light. 

These plants also bloom bell-shaped flowers in the summertime. And they produce black or blue berries from said foliage.

How’s that for decor? Mondo grass is a gorgeous evergreen with tubercle runners. If you’re looking for one of the easiest ornamental grasses in existence, mondo grass does the trick.

Types of mondo grass

If you’re having trouble deciding which type of mondo grass to plant, there are quite a few. This list will narrow it down to the most popular mondo species:

• Black beard (large, dark, ornamental grass, lavender flowers, blackberries, resilient, big foliage, good for zones 7-10)
• Nana (hardy in zones 6-11, tiny blue flowers, smaller compact size, dark green foliage)
• Nigrescens (dwarf size, dark black with white flowers, purple fruit, hardy in zones 5-10, likes light)
• Mondo “Japonicus” (popular classic, low maintenance, blue/white flowers, dark green foliage, bright blue berries, easy to grow, hardy in zones 6-12, elegant arching grass)
• Dwarf mondo grass “Nanus” (slender leaves, petite, compact, 2-4 inches max height, good for lawns)

Depending on your local environment, some will be much more suitable than others. Do your own research to see what’s good to grow in your zone.

How to propagate

Propagating mondo grass is super easy. It’ll remind you of the science experiment plants you grew in a cup in elementary school.

Those were the days, right? Did you do those mealworm in a cup experiments as well?

The ideal time to plant it is in the springtime when the temperatures pick up, rather than the cooler wintertime when it may have trouble germinating.

There are multiple ways to propagate mondo grass. Let’s cover the two most common techniques.

Starting from seed

Growing mondos from grass is rewarding but take quite some time to get that full look. If planting from seed, be aware that they’re extremely finicky.

They have poor germination rates and they take a long time to do so. Plus, they can end up not being true. They are mixed or hybrid plants. This makes them difficult to deal with.

Seeds can be harvested from the fruit of previous plants. Or they can be bought. But note that seeds you buy generally have lower germination rates unless the nursery is reputable. It’s hard to get quality seeds.

Plant the seeds in sterilized potting soil. You can bake the soil to remove all pathogens. They’ll also need a cold frame to germinate. Water and keep it humid.

Sow seeds just under the soil line- 0.5” deep. Thin to the strongest plant when the first pair of true leaves emerge. The soil should be moist, but never wet. Don’t let it dry out between watering.

Mondo grass seeds will randomly germinate. It takes anywhere from 14 days up to 180 days. This is why using regular mondo grass propagation from division is easier. This is not for the impatient.

From plant division

Plant vision is easily done. You divide up the side shoots. Or you can use large clumps using a clean pair of pruners. Do this in the springtime when the plant is actively growing.

Do NOT do this during the winter when it’s cold. You reduce the possibility of rooting. Diving this way is preferred because it’s reliable. You get exactly what you sow. The new mondos are the same as the host plants. This creates that uniform look in your garden.

To divide mondo grass, get a clean pair of scissors, pruners, or a knife. Sterilize it with rubbing alcohol.

Next, get your favorite garden spade. Gently dig around the soil and remove the dirt. When you can see the tuberous root entanglement at the base of the plant, gently use the spade to uproot it.

Remove excess dirt or debris using your fingers. Not with something too sharp.

You can wet it first to help loosen the roots. The roots can be extremely fragile, so be careful. Don’t use a sharp object if possible. If you damage it, you’re losing valuable tubercles that could root your new plants!

Get your sterilized pruners or knife. Cut the roots into equal sections. Each section should include at least 8 leaves with tubers and roots. This will maximize the chance of successful rooting.

If you want to use rooting hormones (gels or powders), use them now before you plant! Some popular choices are the following (links t0 Amazon):

• Hormex rooting hormone
• Bonide rooting powder

You can use them to feed the roots if you’re having trouble getting nutrients from the soil.

Gently loosen the soil around the root ball and then pull the roots away. Pull upwards until it snaps. Each plant shoot should break apart easily.

The shoots should have a few roots on it when you separate them from the main plant’s root ball. This is why mondo grass is so easy to propagate. No need for special this or that.

Plant each side shoot into its own container. You can use 5-inch pots filled with some quality potting mix that’s well draining. Or you can plant them directly into the garden if you want to avoid moving them later on.

Just make sure that the soil you use is going to be the permanent one. Don’t change it later on as they don’t like plant shock.

If planting outside, place them in a sheltered area away from direct sunlight, draft, winds, or scorching sunlight. It should be well drained with rich, organic soil. Afternoon shade is recommended with dappled sunlight throughout the day. The morning sun is OK.

Water regularly following the watering regimen for mondo grass outlined below.

If planting in pots, water generally the first time around so the water pathways are established. Keep them moist, but never wet. When the root balls start to put on some new growth, it’s time to put them into the garden! Do this when the winter is over.

How to care for mondo grass

This section goes over some basic growing tips for mondo grass. You’ll see that it’s extremely easy to grow and care for, as long as you’re in the right zone.

Otherwise, you may need to make some changes to accommodate for temperature swings (such as adding mulch to keep it warm).

If you still have questions about how to grow monkey grass, feel free to post a comment using the form at the end of this page.

Hardiness zone

Mondo grass is an evergreen that is hardy in USDA zones 5-10. If you’re situated in these zones, you should be good to go. The plant is resilient once established.

It can tolerate salt, drought, rabbits, deer, and even light flooding (but not for extended periods or else you risk fungal issues for your grass).

Even if you’re outside of these zones, you can still grow mondos if you adjust for the season.

The plant is hardy to both hot and cold weather when the roots are established.

Soil

The soil must be well draining and supplemented with compost or manure if the soil column has poor nutrient flow. It should be free of debris, balanced NPK, and not tough because the root ball of mondo may have a hard time breaking through the soil to grow.

Put in some organic matter and some bone meal for extra nutrients. They love their bone meal. Get a pack of organic bone meal and go crazy.

It helps them build strong roots and should be used right at the soil line with the crown. Note that the crown should be placed just below the soil line.

If you’re planting mondo in containers, use a line of pebbles at the base of it.

This helps improve range and prevents it from clogging at the base. For the actual soil, use humus-rich soil with moisture retaining properties.

Supplement with peat moss, coconut coir, peat moss, or humus itself. Vermiculite can also be used. Bone meal can be used in both potted or soil sown mondo plants.

Soil pH

Mondos appreciate slightly acidic soil conditions with a pH range of 5.5-6.5.

If your soil is too basic or neutral, use peat moss or other soil amendments to lower the pH naturally. pH won’t make or break your mondo grass, but it’ll help them thrive.

Use composted or aged manure to help increase the nutrient density of the soil. You can measure your soil pH using a pH test kit (check them out on Amazon).

These are widely available and cheap to buy. You can get them in your local nursery or online.

Depth

Plant seeds 0.5 inches deep if starting from seed. If dividing, plant each cutting of the root ball to the same depth as the original plant’s root ball. Try to plant it in the same growing conditions.

This way, you eliminate plant shock. On average, you’ll be planting the grass at the same depth as the roots in the host grass. This is usually about 3 inches wide, and 6 inches deep.

Spacing

Space each plant about 3 inches apart if you want that full coverage appearance.

If you want them to grow larger, space them at least 6-8 inches from each other. This will give them more space to grow. If you plant them too close together, you have two options:

• Provide ample nutrients in the soil
• Thin to the strongest plant

Use the 4” depth ring to harvest plugs for dwarf varieties. Space plugs 3” apart. You can separate clumps into sections each with several stolons and plant up 1 foot depending on how packed you want it to be.

Watering

Water your mondo grass at least once per week. Adjust as necessary for rain or drought. They can withstand some degree of drought, but need water in order to maintain their beauty.

1-2 inches of water per week is sufficient for most gardens. The soil should remain moist between watering sessions. Don’t let it dry out. But don’t overdo it either. Overwatering mondo grass will lead to fungus or create a breeding zone for pathogens. So don’t do it!

Some people water when the top inch of the substrate is dry. This is acceptable if you want to reduce the risk of fungal issues. But use a moisture meter to monitor it so it doesn’t go completely dry on you.

When the plant becomes established, it can tolerate much drier conditions. Mondos prefer slightly moist soil but can tolerate dryness when they have developed roots. They will slow their growth if dry.

Mulching

Mondo grass will appreciate some light mulching around the top 1-2 inches of the soil line. You can put leaf litter, leaf mold, or straw mulch.

This will help retain water and reduce your need to constantly keep it moist. It also helps keep weeds down. Use organic mulch if possible.

Plant food

Supplement with organic matter such as compost or slow-release granular fertilizer in the spring. This will help increase their nutrient availability during the active growing season.

Use NPK ratios of 10-10-10. General purpose, slow release fertilizer is key. You can find this in your local garden center for cheap.

If your substrate has a bunch of nutrients in it, then you don’t really need plant food. Remember that compost, manure, leaf litter, mulch, bone meal, etc. are fertilizers themselves.

Overdoing it can bring in insects because your mondo won’t use it all up.

So the bugs will eat it instead. Use granulated plant food in the early spring before your mondo grass actively grows. A balanced plate of food with a 10-10-10 NPK ratio is good enough.

If you want to get fancy, use a fertilizer with higher nitrogen and potash (the N and K values in NPK) that are specifically formulated for grasses or shrubs.

This will replenish necessary nutrients so they can consume them for the season.

Sunlight

These plants will grow in full sun, but partial sun is ideal. Filtered or dappled sunlight cast over the mondo grasses not only looks amazing, but it’s optimal for their growth.

They thrive in areas with filtered light, so plant them next to taller foliage or behind artificial structures. Sunlight that stems from the early morning is preferred over the scorching sun in the noontime. If you compare shaded mondos vs. full sun mondos, the shaded ones have that nice dark green coloring.

Full sun mondos are generally lighter in color. But this varies on multiple variables like the type of mondo plant, watering regime, pH, plant food, soil quality, location, etc. 

Temperature

Mondo grass is hardy down to -10F when fully established. Of course, this will stop its growth completely.

It prefers warmer temperatures between 60-70F. It’s a cool sun plant. If you’re in the desert with hot and arid conditions, increase your watering regimen or plant in shady plots.

The grass is robust, hardy, and will handle most climate conditions. It just needs water with filtered light. Even in extreme temperature dips, it can be tolerant to frost.

So there’s no need to worry about small dips. It’s also heat tolerant as well. It can tolerate 90F or higher with ease if water is supplemented. Some light spritzing may be necessary to increase humidity in warmer climates.

Humidity

In dry regions, water more often or spry the foliage with water to increase humidity around it.

If the leaves turn brown or dry, increase watering. Monkey grass thrives in humid environments, so you need to keep it moist so the humidity remains elevated for it to grow.

Use humus-rich moisture-retaining substrate to help keep humidity high. If you’re in the southeast US, humidity is naturally high. This is ideal for mondo grass!

Environment

Mondo grass prefers slightly acidic soils with plenty of rich, organic materials to feed on. Ophiopogon japonicus is more of a lily-like plant than true grass.

In some parts of the southeastern US, O. japonicus will thrive natively. But for other western states, it needs to be introduced.

In the wild, you can find mondo grass growing in dappled sunlight. They can be found next to roads in rural areas. It’s also found along border paths, between stepping stones, flower beds, lawns, or as plant cover.

It has a tendency to bunch together so it’s often found on forested slopes. They don’t like excess water and full sun. Mondo grass comes from Southeast Asia.

Pruning

You’ll need to prune your mondo grass using sharp, clean, sterilized shears a few times during the season. These grasses may turn brown or black in cooler regions.

By the time the cool season rolls in, the grass can appear to be ragged, torn, or wilted due to the changing season. Use a pair of shears to gently cut back the spent flowers, dead leaves, or wilting foliage. Shaggy or unfavorable leaves should be removed in the winter.

Cut your mondo grass back by 30% of its size. This will help encourage new foliage to grow. They benefit from reseeded mulch or compost early in the season to help increase their nutrient profile.

Larger mondo grasses can be divided every 2-3 years. Smaller container plants can be divided when they root. Don’t divide too early or else the new plants will have a difficult time developing their root systems.

Overwintering

Monkey grass needs basic pruning for the winter. Pull out leaves or tufts of foliage that turn yellow or brown in the winter.

If you’re in zones 5-10, nothing needs to be done other than the removal of spent flowers or willing grass. The grass will start to fade to black as the seasons approach winter.

Depending on the species, some will last through winter without issues. Others will change color or wilt. Regardless, you likely don’t have to do anything if temperates don’t dip too much during the cold.

Stop or reduce watering in the winter. Reduce it down to 25% of the regular amount and see how your grass reacts. Little needs to be done in the wintertime other than checking for insects.

Mondo grass is evergreen in warmer climates. It’ll stop growing in the winter if temperatures drop below -5F. But will resume in the spring.

If temperatures dip, supplement with mulch to protect the roots from the cold. It helps insulate the root ball.

Do not feed fertilizer in the wintertime. The plant may not “drink” it and this will bring in bugs.

Companion plants

There are countless plants that pair well with mondo grass. Some compatible companion plants include the following:

• Impatiens
• Begonia, ferns
• Blue fescue
• Heuchera
• Liriope
• Hostas
• Chartreuse plants
• Hakone grass
• New Zealand flax
• Primrose plants
• Stachys byzantina
• Cornus alba
• Perata cylindrica
• Helleborus
• Other mondo grasses

It looks good next to light-colored foliage. Silver or gold foliage really brings out the colors of mondo grass. Plant next to similar-sized plants.

Don’t plant with

You should avoid planting mondo grass with plants that can outcompete nutrients. This grass can be quite greedy with the free nutrients in the soil column.

If planted near other plants that are poor growers, it can choke out other plants. If you don’t provide enough distance between mondos and other plants (including other mondos), they’ll compete for nutrients. Provide at least 12 inches from other plants.

Pests

These grasses have minimal problems. Mondo grass is robust, tough, versatile, and has very few issues once established from pests.

Some insects you may have issues with include slugs, snails, and other gastropods. When it’s warm outside, these will show up on your monkey grass.

They love feeding on the foliage because it’s so easy to reach and tender. This makes it easy to digest for them. But serious damage from bugs isn’t likely. You’ll spot wilted foliage, holes in the grass leaves, or changing colors.

You can remove these by hand and dip them into a bucket of soapy water. Beer traps, diatomaceous earth, or copper tape can be useful as DIY techniques to keep bugs off your monkey grass.

Diseases

There are a few problems your grass can encounter. Some of them include pythium root rot and leaf rot, both caused by excess water in the soil.

Dwarf varieties are vulnerable because they’re so close to the soil line. Prevent these issues by watering less and reducing humidity. Proper spacing, pruning, and not over-watering will help prevent monkey grass problems.

Usage scenarios

Monkey grass is a low creeping tough evergreen grass that’s commonly used as a plant cover. It’s even used as a lawn in some driveways.

This low-maintenance grass is perfect for shady areas to fill in for gaps, voids, or cracks. Use as plant material between pathing, borders, fencing, etc.

The uniform growth with neat, clean foliage is perfect for containers or edgings. It can also be used for knot gardens or geometric plant beds.

Some people grow them in gravel, rock, clay, or zen gardens. They’re tolerant to deer, most wildlife, pests, and even drought. Mondos also have some degree of tolerance to salinity, which makes them good for coaster gardens, marshes, streams, ponds, or other water features. Or you can just grow it for the beauty of the fruits!

Commonly asked questions

This section covers some commonly asked questions about mondo grass care from readers. You may find it useful for your purposes.

If you don’t find an answer to your question, please post it in the comments section!

Why is my mondo grass turning brown/yellow?

This is usually due to too much sun, too much water, or the general care requirements are not being met.

Perhaps this video explains it vast detail:

Is mondo grass annual or perennial?

Mondo grass is a perennial ornamental grass. If grown within the right zone, you should have no problem getting it to overwinter.

This grass will come back on its own next spring. That’s the beauty of perennials. You can enjoy the fruits of your labor season after season.

When your mondo grass gets really big, you can enjoy those arching leaves of green!

How long does it take for mondo grass to grow?

That’s a tough one. Germination from seed can take up to half a year to successfully sprout.

It can also take as little as 2 weeks. As you can see, it greatly varies depending on where you’re located, the mondo species, and how you grow it.

From division, you can expect results much quicker. Standard mondo grass will establish itself within 1-2 years.

You know it’s done when it’s about 12 inches wide. Dwarf grasses will take almost twice as long to reach their max width.

Can I walk on mondo grass?

Mondo grass can tolerate being walked on, but not on a daily basis. Avoid stepping on it if possible. Foot traffic will destroy it over time.

Place small stepping stones or some other pathing to avoid stepping on it. Use dwarf mondo grass only for high traffic areas as it’s more tolerant of being walked on.

Do NOT use regular mondo grasses for traversing.

Does mondo grass need a lot of water?

Mondo grass should be watered thoroughly and deeply until they’re established. Water 2-3 times per week to help them develop strong root systems.

Eventually, they only need to be watered once per week. They become drought tolerant over time, to which you can reduce watering to just an inch or so per week. Keep the soil moist, but not wet.

Can dogs eat mondo grass?

Monkey grass is harmless to dogs in small quantities. Dogs may chew on it occasionally without issues.

If they consume too much of it or are sensitive (or have other issues), it can cause stomach or digestion issues. Mondo grass is not listed on the ASPCA list of poisonous plants. You should avoid letting your dog consume mondo grass in large quantities, but smaller chomps here and there should be OK for normal dogs that don’t have sensitivities.

How do you keep weeds out of mondo grass?

Regular mulching will help keep weeds out of plant beds. Mulch suppresses weeds, but helps retain moisture for your plant to drink over time.

Use a high-grade mulch to help keep weeds out of mondo grass or else they’ll compete for nutrients and your grasses will get jumbled. Oh, and pull the weeds as you spot them!

What is the difference between mondo grass and dwarf mondo grass?

There’s a lot of confusion between the regular mondo and dwarf mondo.

It’s simple: dwarf mondo is just a smaller, compact version as the name implies. Dwarf mondos have slimmer leaves that give a petite build.

Regular mondo grows up to 12 inches, but the dwarf is about half that size. It only reaches about 3-6 inches tall. The care between the plants is similar.

They also look almost the same. Dwarf mondo is darker in color and is more cropped.

Will dwarf mondo grass grow in full sun?

Yes, dwarf mondo grass will grow in direct sun. But you’ll likely end up with more lime green foliage over dark green.

Use dappled light when possible. Filtered sunlight is ideal for that dark green foliage. Since people use dwarf mondo for lawns, sometimes it’s not possible to plant in shade.

That’s OK, but don’t expect the nice coloration that a filtered sunlight plant possesses.

Further reading/references

• Mondo Grass | Home & Garden Information Center
• Ophiopogon planiscapus – NCSU
• Mondo Grass – Ophiopogon japonicus – PNW Plants

Enjoy your mondo grass!

You now know everything you need to know about how to grow and care for mondo grass. You’ll see that it’s so easy you wish it was earlier.

It’s pretty to look at. It’s an evergreen. And it blooms. Plant cover. Pathing. Bordering. Or void fill. It’s all up to you. Mondo grass is versatile and suits a variety of purposes.

Do you have any questions about growing mondo grass? Post them in the comments section and ask! Thanks for reading!

The post How to Grow Mondo Grass (Monkey Grass) – Beginner’s Care Guide appeared first on Gardenisms.

S. dyerianus is known for those shining purple iridescent leaves with silver slivers.

It’s an exotic looking plant straight out of Myanmar.

But it can easily be grown in your home office or garden with little effort. Seriously.

Let’s dive in and learn how to grow and care for Persian shield.

(Featured image By Mokkie – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0)

Last updated: 6/23/22.

Quick care guide: Persian shield

What’s Persian shield?

Persian shield, scientifically known as Strobilanthes dyerianus, is a gorgeous Acanthaceae with purple leaves.

If you’re looking for a plant that really emits a glow and draws attention, Persian shield will do the trick.

This ornamental plant comes from Myanmar, where its’ always humid and warm. It grows as an evergreen that comes back every season so you can enjoy it time after time without having to buy it again at the nursery.

It is a flowering plant, but I think the leaves are more interesting than the flowers.

That’s how gorgeous they really are.

Under the right lighting, they almost emit a glow with their textured surfaces rigid with purple, dark green, and lime.

The phenomenal leaves give flowering plants a run for their looks.

Each plat produces leaves up to 7 inches with tipped edges and green veins. The leaves are purple and silver with a bushy appearance and can grow up to 5 feet tall.

The plant looks exotic, cool, and makes an awesome addition to the outdoor garden or household plant. Imagine putting one of these in your office.

Let’s learn more about these mysterious shield plants.

Is Persian shield poisonous to cats or dogs?

There is no concrete evidence that Persian shields are toxic.

The same goes for pets, like cats and dogs.

People have said that they had some skin irritation from the plant sap, so take that as you will.

If you’re concerned about poison, use gardening gloves, keep pets/people away, and exercise caution when handling Persian shield.

Is Persian shield easy to grow?

These plants are very basic, which makes them perfect for beginners.

Other than regular watering, pruning, and basic TLC, they don’t ask for much.

The 5-inch purple leaves are pretty to look at with a dash of silver.

These plants don’t grow too tall or wide, so they can be a centerpiece in a compact tiny garden.

Annual or perennial?

Persian shield is an evergreen plant in nature.

When planted in the right hardiness zone, it can be grown as a perennial. Even though it drops its leaves, the root system remains intact.

Persian shield naturally loses its leaves in the winter and will grow once again in the spring.

For extremely cold zones, it can be brought indoors to overwinter.

Otherwise, it’ll be grown as an annual, which is a waste since you can enjoy it over and over if you keep the temperatures above 60F or so.

How to grow Persian shield

This section covers the general guidelines for growing and caring for Persian shields.

Depending on where you’re located, the type you’re growing, and your local climate, instructions vary.

You can utilize these tips to get an overall idea of how to care for it. The silver/purple leaves make it more colorful than flowering plants themselves. They also provide color all year round if temperatures are kept warm and the air is humid.

Hardiness zone

Persian shield grows in USDA zones 10-11.

It’s a limited scope because it’s native to Myanmar where it’s humid and wet.

It can be grown indoors if you really want to get some of that purple leaf love, so you have options even if you’re not in the right hardiness zone.

However, for folks that want to grow it outside, it’ll be easier if you’re in the right zones.

If you’re growing Persian shield in a cooler zone, such as zones 8 or 9, the plant will slowly wither. This plant doesn’t like the cold and is a warm weather, humid, and subtropic species.

Even if the foliage dies back in the winter, the roots remain intact.

The plant will come back in the spring, as it’s a perennial.

So don’t pull those roots out just because your plant is wilting it’s pretty flowers.

Consider growing in a container if you’re in a cooler zone.

This way, you can move it indoors in the wintertime to keep those precious purple leaves and grow them as an evergreen.

Propagation

Propagating Persian shield is the hard part.

Once you get it going, it’s easy street from there.

There are multiple ways you can propagate it: by seed, cutting, or transplant.

Of course, like any other plant, buying a transplant is the easiest way.

If you’re new to gardening, this will be the least amount of work and you can enjoy your Persian shield right away.

For that with more experience, you can use a stem tip cutting from a friend or you can start from seed.

From seed

I’ll be frank- if this is your first time growing for Persian shield, you should use stem cuttings instead.

Starting from seed is a lot more work and it has specific conditions for germination. But if you’re up for the challenge, here’s how:

Get a fresh packet of seeds. Read the directions. They supersede any directions you read online since they’re written exactly for that plant rather than generic info from blogs.

Seeds should be sown in the spring or late winter.

Seeds will require at least 60F to germinate.

Get a seed starter and put 2-3 seeds per compartment. Each seed should be 0.25” deep. Use rich and moist soil. Water and cover with the humidity tray. Keep temperatures stable as seeds will NOT germinate when temperatures dip too low.

Seeds will germinate within 2-3 weeks. Thin to the strongest plant. Move to your garden or into a container when you notice a few pairs of leaves grow out.

Watch for signs of infestation, mold, or fungus. Dispose of infested plants.

From cuttings

If you have an existing Persian shield or you can get a soft stem cutting from a friend (softwood cuttings), you can propagate it that way. Get a sterilized pair of pruners and make a five-inch cut on the stem on the growing end.

This should be done before blooming. But if blooming has already taken place, wait until it sheds its flowers.

Cut 0.5 from the leaf nodes on fresh stems. This will increase the chance of rooting. Cut off any leaves from the bottom few inches so it’s leafless at the base. Don’t worry about the top half.

Rooting in water

Prepare a clear vessel for indoor rooting.

It should be glass so you can see through it easily. It makes checking for fungus or mold on the roots much easier. Place the stem in the container.

Fill it with 3 inches of water. The stem should stand up easily in a mason jar propped on the lip of the container. Use fresh, dechlorinated water only. You can use water de-chlorinator if you don’t have distilled water available.

This is commonly sold for fish tanks and you can find it in pet stores.

Put the vessel near a filtered window and watch for roots. The water should be changed daily with minimal disturbance. If you see fungus or mold, dispose of it entirely and start over.

The roots will grow slowly over time. They grow from the bottom of the stem.

When they get about 1 inch in length, congrats! Your Persian shield has rooted and is ready to be planted in your garden. The cutting must remain moist at all times.

Moving to the garden

When choosing a spot in your garden, ensure that you have at least 3 feet wide plots.

This will give it plenty of space for the roots to grow outward. It should also be at least 12 inches deep to accommodate those deep roots Persian shield is known for.

Grab the stem and plant 1-2 inches of the roots into the soil.

The crown should be covered by soil. It should be secured by the soil in place. Water generously the first time to established water pathways. The top 5 inches of soil should be moist, but not wet.

Keeping it as a houseplant

If you want to keep it as a houseplant indoors, get a new planter and fill it with your soil of choice then move it. Use a container as big as you can find. Ideally, it should be at least 12 inches deep and the same width.

This will eliminate you having to upgrade the container later on when it outgrows it.

Note that you can keep it indoors for the entire year except in summertime when you can move it outside.

This will help keep the temperatures stable so you can enjoy those brilliant flowers. Humidity is the main issue when trying to grow indoors, but you can take care of that by putting the plant over a saucer of water.

Soil

Persian shield will do well with organic compost or manure mixed with garden soil that’s well-draining. It should be loamy and easy to mix without too much force.

Use high-quality garden soil for soil sowing or a potting mix for container planting. Use a non-soil medium when planting from cuttings such as peat.

pH

Persian shield can tolerate a pH value of 5.5 up to 8.0. So it can do well in both acidic and basic soils.

You probably won’t have any problem with this, but if you need to adjust the pH value, you can use organic soil amendments. The pH should be neutral on average.

Depth

Plant each seed 0.25″ deep when starting from a packet. For cuttings, the bottom few inches should be under the soil with softwood stems. Nothing confusing about it. Just make sure you have the leaf nodes under the soil so roots can form from them and grow outwards!

Spacing

Space each Persian shield at least 2-3 feet apart. Each plant grows enough to give a full bushy look.

If you plant them too close, you risk mold or fungus from poor evaporation of water.

If you plant them too far from each other, then you get more individualized plants. This doesn’t look bad, but it doesn’t look full if that’s what you’re going for.

Watering

Water when the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry or near dry. Use a moisture meter to get a precise time to water.

Watering once a week should be enough, but give it extra watering in the summertime.

Don’t overwater. It should be moist, but never wet.

Depending on your local conditions, you need to adjust your watering regimen.

If it rains, reduce watering.

If it’s hot, increase watering. Reduce watering during the winter. Don’t overcomplicate it!

Sunlight

Persian shield grows in full sun or partial sun. It’s extremely adaptable and can do well in either condition.

For indoor houseplants, give it filtered sunlight next to a bright and warm window spot.

For outdoor plants, either one can do.

When grown in full sun, it’ll need more watering than usual to avoid drying out. Use mulch to retain moisture, prevent weeds, and insult the roots.

Full sun conditions should provide at least 5 hours of direct sunlight per day for best results. It can grow in full shade, but it’ll grow slower and the leaves may not be as iridescent.

Plant food

Fertilize in the spring or early summer. Use a liquid plant food. Dilute if you notice plant scorching. Use as directed.

Temperature

Persian shield is a warm-weather plant. Aim for temperatures above 60F at all times with humid air.

This is why it does so well in zones that are very hot and humid, such as 10-11 (think states like Missouri).

Humidity

Persian shield loves high humidity. Keep the soil moist and increase the humidity by regular watering.

Natively, it grows in regions that have naturally high moisture content.

Poor humidity may result in slower growth, smaller leaves, or drying/wilting leaf tips that turn brown or yellow.

Pruning

Persian shields that have been exposed to high nitrogen in the soil column will grow leggy. The same is true for plants that have been exposed to poor lighting conditions.

Overall maintenance for Persian shield is easy.

Leggy plants can be pruned to fix the issue.

Cut the stems right at the leaf nodes where you want the plant to grow bushy. Doing this over time will help promote the Persian shield to grow bushy rather than leggy.

Check that your fertilizer is also balanced and not high in nitrogen NPK.

Cut off scorched or damaged leaves regularly to discourage pest infestations. Stems that have turned brown or yellow can be removed entirely to promote growth elsewhere.

Continually check for pest activity. If you notice fungus, browning tips, leaf wilt, or other signs of infestation.

Cutting off woody stems or damaged foliage can help promote new growth. Broken stems should be removed right away. Wilted foliage in the winter should be removed as well.

Overwintering

There are multiple ways to save your Persian shield over the winter.

As you know by now, this plant doesn’t like the cold. It’s a warm-weather plant and will wither when the breezy season comes.

However, you have plenty of options to winterize it.

Container planting

If you grew it in a planter, you can simply bring it somewhere warm and sheltered for the wintertime. Take it inside your house, in the garage, or maybe in a greenhouse.

All of these should suffice for the time being.

If you decide to shelter it, the new home should have bright filtered light. This can be next to a sunny window, but not directly in the sunbeams.

Or you can place it in filtered sunlight. If you notice scorching, the light is too strong. The purple will turn pale or white. For those that have no good sunlight during the winter, use a grow light with full spectrum lighting for optimal results.

Water when the top few inches are dry. Reduce plant food during this time.

Persian shield doesn’t need any cold exposure to thrive next season, unlike cowslips or agapanthus. So you don’t need to force it or cold stratify the seeds.

Use a moisture meter to gauge the soil saturation. The container should provide adequate space and depth for it to grow- at least 12 inches both ways.

Put a layer of mulch

For warmer zones, you can simply add a few inches of organic mulch during the winter. 2-3 inches of well-draining mulch should be enough to insulate the roots from temperature swings.

Additionally, you can use row covers, cold frames, or mini-greenhouses.

Or just leave it outside

If you don’t get those cold winter seasons, you can simply leave it outside during the winter.

However, you should monitor for cold dips. Add mulch if you anticipate a drop in temperature below 60F.

You may also see the leaves drop off, but this is to be expected. If the roots don’t wither, then you’ll get new offshoots in the springtime.

Container-planted Persian shields can be burlap-wrapped.

Companion plants

There are handfuls of plants that go well with Persian shield.

Think caladiums, ferns, lamb ears, silver pelctranthus, impatiens, curcuma, pretoriacanna, potato vine, coules, ficus, alocasia, or any plant with matching colors. Purple goes well with red or purple.

It can be a good centerpiece plant surrounded by dabs of brighter color. Go wild with your imagination.

There are plenty of companion plants to pair your Persian shields within your garden for a mesmerizing display.

Avoid planting with

Don’t plant Persian shields with competing plants in the same genus.

They’re likely to compete for nutrients which ends up with either one dominating the other or both suffering.

Best uses

Its brightly colored purple leaves are the main attraction that most people grow it for.

It does well in perennial or evergreen setups with colors that go with purple, such as white, red, or green.

Pair with companion plants that grow in similar conditions for a striking set up in your garden.

It does well as a centerpiece plant, but not as a background plant because of its short stature. It can also be planted on garden fringes with snake plants, impatiens, or caladiums for a nice contrast.

Alternatively, you can grow it indoors to spice up the room with some awesome plant color.

Pests

Bugs aren’t usually a problem for Persian shields and they’re quite hardy to most pests. But some of the common handful of critters you may come across include the following.

Spider mites will pierce through the stems or foliage to suck out the precious plant extract. These are hard to see and can be eliminated with pyrethrin-based insecticides.

Regular soapy water spraying can also help. Use insecticidal oil if you need to. Be sure to follow the directions so you don’t burn your plants.

Neem oil can be used as a last resort, but it can be dangerous to pets and people. Plus it can burn your plant. Read all directions.

Do your research. And use as directed no matter which method you choose. Neem oil will form a residual coat that can overheat your Persian shields. So be sure to read up on it.

Fungus gnats are small flying insects that love wet soil. They tend to infest Persian shields that are kept indoors. Use soapy water, reducing water, and sticky traps to get rid of them. Soil gnats are another common pest.

Diseases

Persian shield is a hardy plant and will easily tolerant the common plant issues you may find on other evergreens.

Some of the most common ones are yellowing foliage, browning tips, root/basal rot, brown spots, powdery mildew, or fungal infections.

If you get any of these, they can be eliminated by regularly pruning damaged foliage, reducing watering, and ensuring proper evaporation of water. If the plant is too thick in foliage, it gets dense and hard to get the water out. This can lead to infections.

Other common questions about Persian shield care

Persian shield may seem like a mysterious little evergreen, but it’s really basic when you break everything down.

You may find these FAQs useful that are commonly asked by readers.

How long does Persian shield take to grow?

Persian shield germinates within 2-3 weeks.

It’ll reach full size in about 2-5 years, depending on local conditions such as soil quality, water, sunlight availability, temperatures, and humidity.

Then max size is around 3-4 feet in width. Persian shield is a tidy plant that’s not too leggy, but rather bushy. So you get a lot of foliage in a tight space. This is why it’s good for your home or smaller settings.

Put it in your home office next to a bright beam of sunlight and watch it grow!

Why is my Persian shield crispy?

The leaves turn dry and “crispy” when it burns in the sun.

Consider moving it partial shade, reducing sunlight hours, or increasing watering. All of these will dry out the foliage which results in this light purple dried-up look.

Why is my Persian shield silver?

The silver gloss is normal. It covers the purple leaves and some variations may have more silver than purple.

How big do Persian Shield plants get?

Persian shield only gets to about 4-5 feet tall. It’s a bushy plant with slender iridescent leaves.

This makes it good for indoors or compact gardens. It only spans about 3 feet or so across, so it can be kept in a planter.

You can trim it if it gets too big. Plus, it’s good to keep it bushy with regular trimming.

Brighten up your personal space with those spiky leaves.

Is Persian shield drought tolerant?

Persian shield needs very little water during the winter months, just enough to keep the soil moist. But in the summer and spring, when it’s actively growing, it needs to be moist.

The top 1-3 inches of soil should always be saturated with water for best results.

But if you let it go dry between watering, that’s OK. Persian shield is somewhat drought tolerant.

But only for short periods of time. It loves heat, humidity, and all that jazz.

Keep in mind that if you always keep it dry, it won’t have those big burgundy leaves it’s known for so you shouldn’t let it go dry intentionally.

Why are the leaves falling off?

The leaves normally drop off once a year. During the winter period, the leaves fall off but the root is safe. This is normal.

However, if your Persian shield drops leaves during the spring or summer, it could be due to any of the following reasons:

• Lack of water
• Lack of plant food
• Humidity is low
• Not enough sunlight
• Poor draining soil
• Lack of nutrients in the soil column
• Pests
• Fungus or mildew
• Wild temperature swings

Find and fix the issue by process of elimination.

Why are my tips brown?

If the tips of your leaves are brown, it could be due to the heat being too high, especially if they’re starting to curl.

Take the plant and put it in filtered or dappled sunlight if potted.

If not, use artificial shade such as umbrellas or row covers. Crispy brown leaves are also caused by low humidity.

You may want to increase the humidity around it by using DIY humidity trays or increasing watering frequency.

Where can I buy Persian shield plants?

Check your local nursery for Persian shield.

It’s often sold in small containers with the rest of the ornamental flowers.

If you can’t find it locally, check online for seeds or cuttings. It’s not too difficult to find, but it may be if you’re not in the right zone.

Starting from small cultivars sucks, but once you get it going, you can cut the stems and give them to friends or neighbors.

Further reading/references

• Persian shield (strobilanthes dyerianus) perennial experiences – Houzz
• Persian shield advice -Reddit

Now you know how to grow Persian shield

Persian shield is super easy to grow and care for.

Thus, making it perfect for beginners. It looks like some exotic plant with those luminescent purple leaves, but in reality, it basically takes care of itself.

Just watch the water, cold, and fertile regularly to get some gorgeous leaves all season.

What do you think? Do you have any questions? Post a comment using the form below and let me know.

If you’ve grown this plant before, share your experience with other gardeners as well!

Thanks for reading.

The post How to Grow Persian Shield Plants (Beginner’s Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

This plant is hardy by nature so it has plenty of tolerance for the winter.

When grown in zones 9-11, agapanthus doesn’t need much additional care for the cold weather.

But if you’re in a lower zone, you’ll have to give a bit more TLC to care for it during the winter.

Agapanthus can be both deciduous or evergreen, depending on the species you’re growing.

They’re native to South Africa, but they can thrive in the colder regions with a bit of help from you.

You can do a little like mulching or using a cold frame.

Or you can do a lot like lifting their bulbs to store in a temperature-safe environment (like indoors).

Similar to most bulbous plants, they can be safely put into a cozy box filled with substrate for winter storage.

Let’s go over the different things you can do to overwinter and care for your agapanthus during the cold season!

Last updated: 10/27/21.

Can agapanthus be left outside in winter?

It depends on the type of agapanthus you’re growing.

• Evergreen varieties are less tolerant to the cold, therefore should be suited for USDA zones 8 or higher.
• Deciduous varieties are more cold-hardy and will tolerate temperatures all the way down to zone 5 or so.

If you don’t know your zone, find out.

Even if you’re in the “right” zone, note that extended periods of cold will kill your plants.

They can handle temp dips as low as -10F or so, but if it dips lower or remains that way, then your plant is at risk.

Being part of the amaryllis family, they’re used to colder weather. So that’s good.

Perhaps you’re in a colder region, and you’re wondering how your agapanthus is going to go down when the storm comes.

It’s pretty scary if you’ve “grown” on your plants!

What happens to agapanthus during the cold season?

It’s one of two things, depending on the variety:

Deciduous agapanthus will simply die back on their own. The rhizomes are shielded from the cold under the soil line, so it doesn’t get killed by the cold.

These are less work compared to evergreen species and you don’t need to do as much work for these plants.

Evergreen agapanthus will keep their foliage out during the winter time, as they’re bright and showy.

This will make them vulnerable to the cold and will require you to make some adjustments to protect them.

The hard way to tell the difference between the two is by lifting the bulb. The easy way? Just check the leaves when the winter comes.

Are they starting to wilt and fade because of the cold?

If so, then you’re likely growing a deciduous plant.

If they seem to ignore the cold and keep their color throughout the winter, then it’s probably evergreen.

Evergreens are the ones you need to watch out for. If you leave it out, then it’ll be harmed by the cold. Time to get to work.

How to overwinter agapanthus

This depends on the type of agapanthus variety you’re growing.

It also heavily depends on the local conditions during the winter time. If you’re not sure what type you have, you need to find out.

If the plant is evergreen, then you’ll need to give it some extra care for the wintertime.

Finding out if it’s deciduous or evergreen is easy. You can do it by inspecting the tubers before winter arrives.

Or simply look at the foliage when the cold is here- if it’s still bright, showy, and full of leaves, then it’s likely a deciduous.

If you’re in a warmer zone

For those in a higher zone where the winters are mild, you pretty much don’t need to do anything.

This hardy plant will tolerate the mild cold without a problem. Just leave it alone during the winter!

But, you do need to cut it back before the winter comes.

Cutting back the foliage will allow it to hibernate during the winter time.

It also stops bugs from eating the dead leaves. Cut back your agapanthus to just the bare stem.

Cover the exposed stem with a layer of organic mulch to at least 2 inches. Mark the area so you don’t trample it.

When the spring comes, remove the mulch and allow the plant to regrow.

If you’re growing evergreen agapanthus, give it a bit of water here and there during the winter.

If the region you’re in tends to be dry, it’ll need some water to drink. Use your finger to feel the top 1” of soil.

It should be barely wet, but never completely dry. Don’t fertilize during the wintertime until spring comes.

You can then begin watering and feeding like usual.

Easy, right?

Wintering evergreen agapanthus

Evergreens will need extra care. It’ll need to be cut back in the summertime as soon as fall approaches.

Do NOT wait until the cold comes.

It’s just an unnecessary risk to take, especially when grown in northern regions where it gets really cold.

The plant needs to be cut back at the end of summer or early fall right before the cold begins.

Check your forecast and look up your frost dates.

Upon cutting back, you’ll then dig up the roots next.

The tubers should be cleaned.

Use a soft-bristle toothbrush to gently brush off soil that’s stuck on them. Let them dry out after you clean them.

The roots will likely have all sorts of dirty clumps stuck on them plus the moisture from prior waterings.

Keep them somewhere dry, warm, and humid-free. You can wrap them in some paper while they dry out.

Keep the light in the room minimal during this time.

Store in a dark, dry, light-free environment. Aim for temperatures between 40-45F.

When the spring comes, check for mold, fungus, or spores. If you see any, dispose of the bulb because it’ll be useless.

If everything’s good to go, then you’re ready to plant them again for the season.

Evergreens are difficult to overwinter compared to deciduous.

If you’re in zones 6-8, you’ll have a tough time getting them to stay outside during the cold.

Zones that stay above 60F should be OK leaving them in the soil throughout the winter, but they also need full sun.

So if the sun goes away with those shorter days, it’ll suffer.

But if temps are good, plus the sun is bright, you may get away doing nothing. Just water it once a week.

Don’t let it go dry.

If temperatures fluctuate around that threshold, add some mulch. 2-3 inches of organic mulch around the root to help keep it nice and warm.

Mini greenhouses, cold frames, or plant heaters are also good choices.

Smaller agapanthus plants can be covered with a portable greenhouse, without disturbing the plant.

Lastly, you can move your agapanthus into a container.

If you set up a temporary housing area that has temperatures around 60F with 12 hours of sunlight per day, then you can keep your evergreen going through the winter.

Use a grow light for plants if you don’t have the sunlight to give it. When the spring comes, move it back to the original location.

This is to be used as a last resort. It’s not good for the plant to constantly move it. So avoid doing so if possible.

One handy tip is to use containers to grow your evergreen agapanthus.

This makes it a lot more convenient because you can simply move the container when the cold comes.

You also don’t need to uproot it and mess with the roots each time the cold comes. The pot can be brought inside your house when the winter comes.

This saves you a ton of time plus reduces plant shock.

Be sure to provide some light by placing agapanthus next to a window in your house.

Don’t fertilize during this time, but continue to water at a reduced rate.

Wintering deciduous agapanthus

Deciduous variants will need to be cut back.

When it turns yellow, cut it back, but not too early.

It should start to die back on its own. When the leaves start to wilt and change color, then it’s time to cut.

If you do it before it will, it won’t have enough energy stored for the winter.

As you can see, deciduous agapanthus is a lot easier to overwinter vs. evergreens.

If you’re in zones 8 or higher, then you should be OK following this plan of care.

If temperatures remain between 40-50F degrees or so, then you don’t need to do anything else.

The leaves will have stored energy for the next season stored in their rhizomes.

This is why it’s important to wait until the leaves have turned color before you cut it back to a few inches from the soil line.

Without any leaves, it can’t generate any energy during the winter. Therefore, light doesn’t matter.

Whether it’s completely dark or bright, the plant doesn’t care. It can’t photosynthesize anyway.

However, just water it once every 2 weeks or so. This will prevent it from going completely dry, which you don’t want.

If you’re in a lower zone, such as 7 or lower, then add some mulch to it.

2-3 inches is good enough. It’ll shield it from the cold by insulating the temperature swings at night time.

If temperatures remain above 40F, then you’re OK.

If it dips further, your plant may be in trouble.

You may have to add extra mulch. You can use bark or straw as a substitute if you don’t have mulch.

You can also lift the rhizomes and then put them in the newspaper.

Clean the roots, dry them, then wrap them loosely.

Get a box and fill it with sawdust. Then gently place the rhizomes in there individually.

You can add something like sulfur to help prevent any fungal issues during storage.

Don’t let the rhizomes touch each other. Put the box somewhere around 45F. Keep it cold, dark, and dry.

There’s no need to add water.

The easiest solution?

Growing agapanthus in pots! All you need to do is move the container inside your house and you’re set!

Not literally inside, but somewhere that still has cold exposure, like your deck. Agapanthus needs to be exposed to cold so it goes dormant in the winter.

If you keep it awake the entire time, it will produce small blooms next spring. Temperatures around 45F should be enough to simulate the dormancy threshold.

When the spring comes and the last frost is over, then you can move it back to your garden.

Some people will suggest transplanting the entire plant to a new container. This is possible but is a lot more work than it needs to be.

You buy a new container and then move the plant to the new pot.

The new temperature location needs drainage.

You sit in there for the winter until spring comes. Then you move it back out.

Agapanthus doesn’t like to be moved around, so that’s why I don’t like this way of doing things. It can affect the bloom quality.

Other common questions about winter care for agapanthus

Here are some commonly asked questions from readers about taking care of these plants during the winter.

Do I cut my agapanthus plant back in winter?

For deciduous varieties, you don’t need to cut them back until after they start to wilt on their own.

Remember, they need to harvest energy from the sunlight with whatever’s left of their leaves.

They store it for the winter inside the rhizome.

So don’t cut them back early. They wilt on their own, so they’ll naturally tell you when they’re ready to be cut back.

Once they’re done, then you can cut them back to 2-3 inches from the soil line. Easy enough

For evergreens, you’ll need to cut them back.

They keep their leaves throughout the winter.

If you don’t plan on moving them to a sheltered place, then you should cut the leaves back because they’ll likely drop them on their own.

See each section for details above.

When should I cut down my agapanthus?

Cut it down when it begins to wilt on its own.

When the leaves turn brown or yellow and drop, then it’s time to cut back if it’s deciduous.

If it’s evergreen, cut it back when the cold is here.

What do you do with potted agapanthus in the winter?

It depends where you live.

You have multiple options:

• Add 2-3 inches of organic mulch
• Use a mini greenhouse
• Use a cold frame
• Use straw, bark, or leaf litter
• Move them indoors if grown in pots
• Store them in cardboard boxes wrapped in newspaper
• Plant them in pots temporarily somewhere warm

Caring for agapanthus in pots winter care

If you’re growing your agapanthus in containers, congrats, you’ve got it easy.

Just move them somewhere where the temperatures are around 45F throughout the winter.

If you’re growing evergreens in pots:

Give it water when the top inch of soil goes barely dry. Stop all fertilizing. Keep it under a grow light for up to 14 hours per day.

If you’re growing deciduous in pots:

Water once every 2-3 weeks. Stop fertilizing. Keep it in a dark area.

Container growing is cool because you can easily move it around as needed.

If you grow it in a big enough pot, you never need to upgrade it either.

Remember that agapanthus doesn’t like to be uprooted.

How cold of a dip in temperature can agapanthus take?

This varies depending on the variety you’re growing, but they can take cold swings down to -10F on average.

Note that these should not be the typical overnight temperatures.

They can’t sustain themselves when it’s this cold constantly.

But a cold swing here and there is OK.

Further reading/references

• How do I overwinter my agapanthus? – Gardening FAQ
• How to Grow Agapanthus in Pots (Complete Guide)

Overwinter without worry

Now that you know all the basics of winter care for your agapanthus, you can keep it safely without worry!

Although those growing deciduous agapanthus will have a much easier time, evergreens can continue to produce those pretty leaves during the winter if you’re keeping them awake artificially.

There’s always a bit of a nuance depending on where you’re growing, your local climate, and the type of agapanthus you’re overwintering.

Got questions? Post them below and ask away!

If you have any tips to share with other readers, post them as well.

The post How to Overwinter Agapanthus Plants (Beginner’s Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

These shrubs produce those bright red berries you commonly see over the holidays.

They also don’t require much work to grow and are extremely low maintenance.

Plus, they offer plenty of food for wildlife to your yard over the winter.

Ready to plant? Let’s find out what makes winterberry such an awesome plant!

Last updated: 11/10/21.

Quick care guide: Winterberry

What’s winterberry holly?

Winterberry holly is a gorgeous plant that’s best known for its place in pictures during the winter holidays.

Although it looks like it may be imported, it’s a native plant that grows in acidic swamps, rivers, and ponds throughout the United States.

Winterberry is also found in Canada in similar settings.

The most striking feature of winterberry is the bright red berries growing from the thick bush that holds them in bunches.

With its tiny flowers and blooms, the berries take the spotlight.

This plant is also known as the Canada holly, black alder, and common winterberry holly and is found in the subtropics where the temperatures are warm and humid.

The flowers are usually blocking the tiny flowering blooms covered with dark, lush leaves that have pointed teeth.

English holly, for example, has the signature berries surrounded by leaves that are dark green with a lustrous texture that shines under light.

The leaves are teeth and look threatening (and they are).

On the opposite end, some species have soft teeth with extremely narrow leaves.

There are many different cultivars each with different physical features, so one care guide may not cover them all.

The berries are small drupes that contain seeds. This is their main mechanism for dispersion and propagation. If you cut one open, you’ll see that the seeds can be different colors depending on the species.

Some are gold while others are orange. Most are red.

Regardless, this plant is common as a background on Christmas cards or even as a centerpiece for the table.

Is winterberry poisonous?

Yes, the berries produced by winterberry plants are toxic to humans, dogs, cats, and other pets.

Don’t ingest them and always wash your hands if you make direct contact.

Use gloves and proper PPE to protect yourself when you need to handle the plant.

Although it makes an amazing centerpiece around the home, don’t let it touch any surfaces where food is served.

Is it an evergreen?

No. Wintergreen holly is a deciduous shrub- not an evergreen.

This is what allows it to show off those gorgeous red berries all winter long. This attracts birds and adds some color to any garden.

Where does winterberry come from?

Winterberry (Ilex verticillata) is a holly shrub that comes from the US and Canada.

It’s native to the eastern side of the US, but can be grown all over the States due to the various hardy strains that have been produced over the years.

The bright berries are a signature of this plant.

They range in size, color, and the number produced depending on the strain. The berries last throughout the winter and into early spring.

What is winterberry used for?

Other than being a gorgeous decorative piece for your garden, winterberry holly can also be used for many other purposes.

Here are just some random ideas:

• Background picture for holiday cards
• Background for photos
• Decorative pieces around the home
• Tabletop centerpiece
• Privacy hedge
• Plant/garden border
• Christmas tree decoration
• Wreath decoration
• Bird food
• Small animal food
• Attracting wildlife
• Foundation shrubs
• Shrub borders
• Bird gardens
• Woodland decor
• Special landscaping

The possibilities are limited to just your imagination. This is a versatile plant that’s extremely beginner-friendly.

Just remember that the berries are toxic, so keep it away from people and pets.

Otherwise, what more could you ask for?

Winterberry holly is a pest tolerant plant that takes care of itself every year for you (and the birds) to enjoy.

Where to plant winterberry holly

Choosing the right location is key. You should seek out an area with full sun and well-draining soil.

This plant loves acidic soil and requires it to grow properly. The soil should be between 3-6 pH, ideally between 4-5. If you don’t know your soil’s pH, it’s strongly suggested that you buy a soil meter.

Transplanting it later will be a hassle so it’s efficient to get it right from the start.

If your soil is too alkaline, you can reduce the pH naturally by using peat moss.

Mix the soil with organic peat moss and cover the top 12” of depth with this soil/peat moss mixture.

This should reduce the pH drastically. Test it again to ensure the pH is in the proper range.

Hardiness zone

Winterberry holly is tolerant of temperatures across the US. It does best in zones 3 up to zone 10 depending on the type you’re planting.

Plus, it’s beginner-friendly and does well in cold, acidic environments that resemble its native wetlands.

The plant is also resistant to many pests that would otherwise plague wintertime plants.

Will it grow in shade?

Yes, winterberry holly can grow well in partial sunlight or full sunlight.

How fast does it grow?

Winterberry grows slowly and vertically. Some cultivars can grow horizontally, but only by a few feet.

Most strains grow vertically up to 15 feet in height, so you’ll need plenty of vertical space for it to prosper.

Suckers form readily with dark green narrow leaves that are about 3 inches in length. From spring to fall, the plant is a sleeper with nothing to show.

But once winter comes around, it just may be the only plant in your garden that needs absolutely no special care all winter (and has plenty of color to with it). It can be used as a privacy hedge or just for decoration.

Fall leaves are green or white which will last all season until late fall when the berries start forming.

Some varieties may develop their berries in summer.

How do you take care of a winterberry plant?

Here are some basic tips on caring for winterberry holly.

This section covers common practices to grow winterberry holly.

The plant is beginner-friendly and doesn’t require much maintenance after you get it going.

Soil

Winterberry is native to swamps, ponds, and other wet marshes.

Therefore, they do best in areas that they’re already used to. Wet areas of your garden work best, but you should ensure that there’s still a drainage way to get rid of excess moisture.

This plant will do fine with excess moisture present, but well-draining soil still trumps poorly draining soil which can lead to powdery mildew and other plant fungi.

Most winterberry plants are easy to grow and require little maintenance so that even beginners can grow them without any problems. They’re winter hardy, pest free, and disease-free.

Plus, they’re a perfect plant for winter because they thrive while others wilt.

If you need some color in your garden throughout the entire winter, winterberry holly is a top contender.

Choose acidic soil that’s well-draining. Add any supplements or plant food while mixing.

Winterberry isn’t picky about its soil as long as you provide it some high quality, nutritious substrate so it has something to feed on all year.

Both light and heavy soils do well- just use loamy acidic soil with high-quality organic materials. Avoid high alkalinity or neutral soils.

Temperature

Winterberry can tolerate a wide range of temperatures so there’s no need to worry about extreme heat or cold snaps.

Unless you live in the extremes.

Winterberry can handle temps ranging from -20F to typical summertime temperatures. These are hardy all around.

Humidity

Similar to temperatures, winterberry can tolerate a wide range of humidity conditions.

There’s generally no need to do anything about the humidity levels outside.

If there are extended periods of dry weather, consider raising the humidity around the plant by watering or creating a microclimate.

Watering

Watering is simple- add water when the soil dries out but only the top 1-2”.

Avoid overwatering. Winterberry will tolerate excess moisture, but it’s advised to not overwater because this can lead to rot problems at the root level.

Transplants have a slightly different watering regimen. When you first plant transplants, add water daily until you see new plant development.

Once you notice this, reduce watering and let the soil go dry between each watering session.

Keep to this schedule for a few weeks until the plant is established. Then go back to regular watering as mentioned above.

During the summer, use more water and make sure to monitor the soil water saturation between waterings.

Winterberry holly doesn’t tolerate drought and excessive dehydration will lead to failed blooms, which means no berries will form.

If you want to reduce watering, you can add some organic mulch to the top layer of soil to help retain moisture.

You can also use moisture-retaining soil as a base substrate.

Plant food/fertilizer

There’s generally no need for any additional fertilizer unless you notice that your soil is neutral or above pH 7.

You can add some acidic fertilizer to lower the pH and make it more acidic.

If your winterberry grows extremely slow, add some 10-10-10 NPK food in the spring to supplement.

Winterizing

During the winter, keep the roots protected from moisture.

Wetness at the root damages the root system and can lead to rot, fungus, or other nasty winterberry problems.

Similar to wintering other flowering plants like baneberry or dewberry, you can add straw mulch, bark mulch, or even just plain compost foliage to keep it free of water.

This will help keep the roots warm and insulate them from temperature swings.

If you live in a zone that’s prone to cold snaps, consider adding extra inches of mulch. Utilize microclimates where possible.

How to prune winterberry

Flowers and subsequent berries only will develop on new growth, which is done by pruning.

The shrub should be pruned during the spring before you spot any new leaves forming.

Prune up to 30% of the branches completely. And repeat this every year. Cut the oldest branches first and cut them down to the soil level.

Flowers and subsequent berries only will develop on new growth, which is done by pruning.

The shrub should be pruned during the spring before you spot any new leaves forming.

Prune up to 30% of the branches completely. And repeat this every year. Cut the oldest branches first and cut them down to the soil level.

Whatever the case, keeping your plant well maintained over time pays off with a healthy, robust, and upright plant that’s sprouting with fresh red berries. If you don’t prune, the plant begins to sucker quickly.

When to prune

This is completely up to you. If you want it to grow like weeds and max out its height, then do it.

For the maximum amount of berries to form, you can reduce pruning and limit it to just damaged or wilted leaves and branches.

Any branch that’s drooping or has spent leaves can be pruned off.

Leaving the branches unpruned will maximize berry yield since the buds grow on older branches. If you cut it off, it eliminates any chance of berry production.

How to propagate winterberry holly

This is one of the most important sections to understand because it’s the only way you can keep your winterberry holly going year after year. So read up.

Winterberry holly is dioecious, which means that male and female plants are separate. The same plant never contains both male and female flowers.

This means that planting a male next to a dozen females or so should be ideal.

They must be within 50 feet of each other for the best chances of pollination. Only the females will produce berries, thus you need both to pollinate.

First, there are four primary methods to propagate winterberry.

Depending on your circumstances and experience level, choose accordingly.

• From seed
• From cuttings
• Through division
• From a transplant

Let’s dive into each one and see how you can utilize them.

Growing from seed

This is not my recommended method because it simply takes way too long and requires too much work.

If you’re interested in getting your winterberry going from seed, follow the directions on the seed packet as the cultivar you’re growing varies in direction.

Propagation through cuttings

Winterberry holly can be propagated through the plant cuttings.

This is the least required effort out of them all, so no wonder it’s the most popular.

All you need to do is take some plant cuttings from both parent plants- one male and one female.

This will ensure you possess all the parts you need for future propagation. A male plant and a female one will allow you to keep producing berries annually.

To cut, use a sharp and clean pair of shears. Cut the softer areas of the plant where new growth is seen on established male/female counterparts.

You’ll need about 3” of cuttings, as many as you want, from each plant. Remove all the leaves and foliage at the older part of the wood, leaving only the new growth at the end of the piece.

Clean the cutting by using a spade and scrape the debris stuck on it.

At this point, you should have a few pieces of softwood from each winterberry.

Next, prepare the cuttings for planting. Get small plant containers and fill them up with a mixture of perlite and peat moss.

Keep it moist by spritzing it. Add any supplements you like at this point, such as rooting powder or plant hormones. Dip the cut, exposed ends into it.

When you’re all set, stick the softwood into the peat moss mixture.

Repeat the process for each cutting. Place the incubator containers in partial sun and use a cover to hold moisture.

Keep the substrate and cuttings wet by spritzing them daily.

You should see new growth after 1-2 months. It’s time to acclimate!

Find an area in your yard that has direct sunlight for at least 6 hours daily.

Consider planting them in a microclimate that is free of strong winds, drafts, and floods.

Leave them outdoors during the day and let them get more and more exposure to the elements.

Start with partial shade, then move to full sun over a year. You can use a greenhouse or partial shade covers to limit sunlight exposure.

Eventually, you’ll want to move up to at least 8 hours of sun every day.

Be patient during this part of their life. It can be annoying to constantly worry about them, but once they’re established, they’ll produce for you for years. It’s almost like raising real-life kids.

After a year or so, the cuttings will have formed complex root systems and many layers of foliage. You can start translating them into the soil.

When you transplant them to their new permanent home, use well-draining, acid soil. The best time to do this is in early fall, right after the long summer.

Be sure to plant at least one male with your female winterberry plants at most 30-50 feet from one another. If you don’t, you’ll have to manually pollinate come spring.

Don’t reuse the same soil they grew up in when they were raised indoors. This helps eliminate any possible fungus or bacteria that may be in the soil.

How to propagate by division

Planting winterberry by division is also extremely easy.

Just harvest a few suckers from each male/female pair and transplant them into small containers with well-draining, acidic soil.

A 10” planter should be enough for starters.

Add any supplements if you wish, and consider using peat moss to lower the overall pH.

Water daily to keep the soil wet, but don’t let it dry out between waterings. The plant needs to become established first before you go hardcore and let it go dry.

Continually do this and let the plant acclimate to the outdoors. The process is pretty much the same as propagation through cuttings.

You can also use a microclimate setup outdoors to control the dangerous elements.

Keep the plant inside its container until you see new growth. Then you know it’s time to move them into the garden with a transplant.

If you’re using biodegradable pots, you can just dig out a section in new soil and put the pots int here.

Keep the holes about 5 feet apart and plant the winterberry about 8” deep.

Add plant supplements if needed. Use straw mulch or leaf litter to keep the plant warm over the winter.

Water daily and let the soil go barely dry.

Keep watch over it as it adjusts to its new home in your garden.

Make sure you plant at least one male within 30-50 feet of your female plants. This will allow self-pollination.

Note that you can just leave the plants in their containers as well. If you don’t want to translate them yet, you can do a delayed transplant.

Let them stay in their planters until next spring. Water and mulch just as noted above.

When springtime rolls around, remove the bulbs and plant the root balls into their permanent home.

How to transplant winterberry

If you buy winterberry directly from the nursery, you can also just transplant it into your garden.

The process is very straightforward:

• Choose a location that receives at least 8 hours of sunlight daily
• Ensure you have the right soil that’s acidic and well-draining
• Plant at least one male nearby your female plants
• Plant strategically if you want to use them as a privacy hedge or picture background
• Note the max horizontal length and vertical height of your specific winterberry plant

After you check out all these details, it’s time to transplant.

Do this in the early fall so the roots can develop and get strong before the chilly winter.

Add any supplements as you wish as you transplant them into high-quality soil.

You can also add some plant fertilizer (10-10-10 NPK) with peat moss or compost to help it develop. Dig a hole that fits the root ball snugly and place it in.

The root ball should be checked for plant fungus or mold. Move it gently to the soil when you remove it from the commercial pot.

Add your plant supplements and cover it up.

Watering can be done just as you would with any adult plant.

Let it go dry between waterings, but otherwise, keep the first few inches of soil wet.

Self-pollinating

Winterberry is a dioecious plant so it contains both male and female flowers per each plant.

A plant that produces only male flowers can pollinate plenty of female flowers, so you don’t need equal numbers if you want to reproduce.

Female plants are the sole producer of the berries.

If you have both male and female plants nearby each other, they should be able to propagate automatically on their own.

Male vs. female

It’s extremely easy to tell the male from female winterberries.

Female plants have small, pretty bumps in the center of each bloom. If bees, wasps, birds, or other insects pollinate the flower, the berries will form.

Male winterberry plants don’t ever exhibit this characteristic. So that’s an easy way to tell the difference.

All you need to do is look for berries.

• If you see berries in the flower center, it’s a female
• If you don’t see berries, it’s a male.

At first, it may be hard to tell.

But after you give it some time and let some bees do the work of pollination, you’ll be able to differentiate the plant sexes.

A single male winterberry can pollinate 10 or more female plants, which makes winterberry very easy to propagate.

Best types of winterberry

There are many different types of winterberry holly perfectly suited to your needs in landscaping.

Here are some of the most popular variates you can buy in the US.

If you’re interested in any of them, do some research to make sure it grows in your hardiness zone first.

Cacapon

Cacapon is known for its dark green, shiny leaves. It doesn’t have a widespread and stays pretty much vertical.

It can grow up to 8 feet in height and has a nice, oblong shape. This is a perfect choice for a winterberry type that doesn’t take up too much space.

If you only have a tiny space and you want to plant winterberry, consider getting Cacapon.

Southern Gentleman

This is a late bloomer male that can be used to pollinate late-blooming female winterberries.

Southern Gentleman is a huge cultivar that spans up to 7 feet in height and a width of 6 feet in length.

This pant can provide adequate coverage as a privacy hedge with its dense foliage and soft, shiny leaves.

Southern Gentleman produces yellow to white flowers that grow well in zones 3-9.

So if you’re in a colder region and you need a late-blooming winterberry, check out Southern Gentleman.

Aurantiaca

Aurantiaca has an orangish berry and sometimes pink, depending on how you raise it. It grows up to 8 feet in height and is comparable to Winter Gold.

Winter Gold

This is the polar opposite of what you’d expect.

Winter Gold has orange to pink berries that turn to a light red as they get older.

It’s one of the few plants winterberries that don’t produce red berries. This species grows up to 8 feet in height and makes a wonderful complimentary shrub.

Winter Red

Winter Red can be paired with Southern Gentleman as the female counterpart.

This cultivar produces tons of small red berries and grows nearly as tall as its male counterpart.

You can expect up to 6 feet of growth with so many red berries that it nearly transposes the leaves. This is an excellent plant to pair with other late bloomers.

It does well in zones 3-9 similar to Southern Gentleman.

Jim Dandy

This is a male plant, so it never produces berries.

It combines a yellow and purple touch of color with a tall, semi-dense foliage. It grows up to 6 feet so it can provide adequate coverage around your yard.

It’s also quick to bloom during late spring and early summer.

Jim Dandy does well in zones 4-8 and can be paired with a female plant that’s also early blooming.

Berry Poppins

This is an excellent smaller plant that maxes out at 4 feet in height. It’s one of the most popular dwarf winterberry hollies on the market.

If you want a small decorative piece for the winter, this one has everything you need.

Red Sprite

This is another early bloomer that will produce berries from May to June. It’s a companion plant to Jim Dandy because they both produce around the same time

Jim Dandy is a male plant and can be used to pollinate Red Sprite, which is a female plant.

he berries on Red Sprite are bright red and about 0.5” in diameter.

They’ll grow on thick, narrow leaves that sprout from a dense bush. Red Sprite continues producing berries until early spring, so it’s a perfect winterberry holly that keeps making berries all winter long.

If you need decorations for the holidays, Red Sprite is a prime example. It’s also extremely compact with a max height of just 3 feet and about 3 feet wide.

The plant stands strong, sturdy, and upright and does well in zones 4-9. Even the coldest regions can grow Red Sprite without much difficulty.

Oosterwijk

This cultivar comes from the Dutch and is usually purposed for floral displays.

The berries are tight and secure so they don’t come off as easily, which makes it perfect for decoration.

It grows about 5 feet in height and is easily harvested for floral arrangements.

Common problems

Here are some issues with winterberry and how to address them.

The plant is overall very hardy and resistant to problems that plague other wintertime plants.

Pests

Some nuisances can destroy your winterberry plants, but thankfully, the majority of bugs are gone already by the winter and will leave it alone.

However, avian species (birds) are common even during the wintertime and may end up eating up your berries- piece by piece.

Catbirds, robins, woodpeckers, catbirds, bluebirds, or other hungry eaters are all hungry for the berries. Just a few here and there won’t do any major damage to your plant.

But if you let swarms of them constantly pick off berries, you’ll end up with some barren branches for sure.

If birds are an issue, consider adding some reflective tape to naturally repel them from your plant.

Birds love winterberries because it’s one of their nutritious food sources during the cold winter months when bugs and insects disappear.

There’s also an abundance of berries with few predators around, so of course, they’ll feast on it.

Other than birds and a few land critters, winterberry holly doesn’t have any other major pests to worry about.

Expect to see some mice, cedar waxwings, deer, raccoons, or other small animals picking off the berries.

Diseases

Powdery mildew is a result of poor air circulation and excess moisture buildup.

The most common signs are a white powder on the leaves of your winterberry. It can also be a result of soil that’s too alkaline, so you may want to test your soil’s pH for accuracy.

Powdery mildew can be alleviated with pruning to allow air flow and reducing the soil pH if needed.

Even if you start with acidic soil, snowy zones can slowly convert to alkaline over time. This is because defrosters like salt to melt ice and it leaches into your plant’s soil.

You can transition to salt-less substrates if this is the case.

There are also plenty of organic or natural fungus killer sprays on the market that you can check out.

These should be able to eliminate the mildew. Use as directed.

Prune off all mildew infested foliage and branches to help speed up the process.

Further reading

Fertilizing winterberry holly – Houzz

Ilex verticillata – Plant Finder

Now you know how to care for winterberries

You now have all the basics down to care for holly plants.

These beginner-friendly plants reward you with their bright red blooms year after year. And they don’t for a lot of effort other than some basic TLC.

What do you think? Are you going to plant some this year?

If you have any questions or tips about these winterberries, leave a comment and let us know!

The post How to Grow Winterberry Holly (Care Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

Or did you pick up a pack of hyacinth bulbs at the store and wondering how to to plant them?

Regardless, grape hyacinths (Muscari) are an amazing, delicate plant. The colors of blue, purple, white, yellow, and turquoise sway carelessly in the wind.

Grape hyacinths are an aromatic, sweet-scented plant that’s relatively easy to propagate from bulb or seed.

They’re a lily and not a true hyacinth. Muscari propagation is extremely easy from both bulb and seed.

Depending on your circumstances, if you don’t have time or patience, stick with bulb propagation.

Seed takes years to flower, but perfect for those looking for a rewarding experience.

they’re perfect for a side piece or as a border plant and suitable for many different hardiness zones.

With low maintenance and minimal needs, they’re a perfect plant for beginners to propagate. They also grow quickly, so your efforts pay off fast.

Whatever the case, let’s get started so you can put this plant around your entire yard and be surrounded by hyacinths!

Quick facts

Grape hyacinths get their name from the tightly bundled florets that look like grapes at the tip of each flower.

There are many different types of hyacinths, but grape hyacinths aren’t related to them.

They have the grape clusters and they have a sweet-smelling aroma that’s especially prominent at night and during the early morning.

Each plant grows up to 12” and there are 1-3 stalks per plant. They sprout in early spring and usually result in colors that are blue and white.

Some hyacinths may also sprout orange, yellow, pink, and mauve florist.

These can be grown in hardiness zones 3-9 and are super easy to grow.

They’re a good plant for beginners that want to propagate from bulb or seed. If you don’t do anything but the bare minimum, they’ll likely reproduce so quickly you’ll need to prune them to keep them tidy.

These pretty grape-like plants are a stunning addition to any garden with their blue clusters and fragrance.

How to propagate from bulb

You can reproduce them from a bulb in early spring when the stalks flower.

While you can start from seed, going from bulb is much faster because you don’t have to wait 3 years for a plant to be ready to propagate.

You can start as early as spring, but waiting until fall has some benefits- namely that they’ll have a nicer bloom next season.

The process is easy:

Wait until spring to dig up the bulbs or post-flowering and the florets begin to die back. Don’t harvest early so you get fast blooms.

• Wet the soil around the bulbs.
• Use a garden spade and slowly dig up the soil. Avoid damaging the bulbs. Start by digging outside in a circular perimeter and then get closer to the bulbs.
• Pull the bulbs up in a gentle manner. Remove excess soil.
• Separate by size and choose the largest ones. Leave the small ones.
• Choose your new planting site where you want to propagate them.
• Dig a wide plot about 3” in depth with 2” spacing. The flat side faces down.
• Add plant food, well-draining soil, and organic compost or manure for best results.
• Use sand or gritty substrate for hard soil so it drains well.
• Add bone meal or bulb fertilizer.
• Start adding soil around the bulb and keep them in place.
• Add your first jug of water to the plot.

That’s it! Expect new foliage by summer and repeat the process with the other bulbs that you didn’t choose because of size.

Dry soil will make it hard to pull the bulbs apart since they grow so close together. Wet the soil first.

This speeds up the process and makes it easier for you to separate the bulbs.

Each bulb will be different in size, so only pick out the biggest and healthiest ones to propagate. This will make your time easier.

Avoid small ones and leave them in the dirt. Medium bulbs can also be used, however, you’ll need to wait a year or two for them to flower.

How to propagate from seed

Propagating from seed isn’t any harder than from bulb, but it’s a lot slower.

If you’re in a hurry to see your grape hyacinths bloom in all their beauty, skip the seed and go for the bulb.

But if you want to, it’s easy.

• Grape hyacinth plants will sprout seed pods that blow off in the wind and disperse. This happens after bloom and the seed pods sprout new plants.
• If you want to collect the seeds to harvest, you can pick them up as they fall off the plant.
• The pods of seeds are easy to spot and should be right next to the host plant. Pick them up and store them or directly sow them to your new plot site.
• They propagate easily but will take time until they produce plants of their own.

This is assuming you have the right hardiness zone for the seeds. If you plan to ship them out or plant them elsewhere, you’ll have to store them in the fridge for a period of cold stratification.

This takes up to 90 days and this video details the process:

After they’re out of the fridge, let them dry and remove the pods and extract the small seeds. You’re ready to plant.

Outdoor planting

Naturally, the beauty of hyacinths shows the most when they get natural sunlight daily.

Outdoor seed propagation proves to be simple even for the newbie.

Use a start kit and place seeds in rows on top of a 1” layer of soil.

Add a thin layer of soil above the seeds. Over with a clear lid and place it in the cold frame over the winter. This should take about 12 weeks.

Spritz occasionally to keep the seeds moist. Eventually, they’ll sprout. Seeds take a long time to flower and you’ll have to transplant them after they’ve sprouted.

Regardless, you’ll need to be extremely patient with these and monitor them every week. If you don’t have the time to do this, start with bulb planting for quicker results. But the reward from sowing seeds is real.

Indoor planting

Use a paper towel and place the seeds in rows.

Spritz the towel so it’s wet. Place the towel and seeds into a plastic bag and seal it partially.

Allow some air to circulate, but enough of a seal to keep it moist. Put the bag in the fridge for 12 weeks. The seeds will take a long time to sprout.

But once they do, they can be transplanted outdoors after the last frost. Indoor planting is a lot easier to deal with because the temperature is controlled.

Outdoor planting is difficult because the temperature fluctuates.

Did you propagate your Muscari?

You should have everything you need to know to get started on your own colorful blooms.

Grape hyacinths make a pretty addition to any garden and growing from seed or bulb is rewarding.

If you have any questions, post your comment and we’ll get back to you!

The post How to Propagate Grape Hyacinths from Bulb or Seed appeared first on Gardenisms.