There are many types of them available on the market, but the most common one has that signature lime green with pink staining on the large leaves.

They DO require extra care compared to other houseplants, but it’s nothing even a newbie can’t do!

With patience and a dedication to learning about Begonia x rex-cultorum, you can make them thrive indoors.

Toxicity warning!

Rex begonias are toxic to dogs, cats, and sensitive individuals.

The plant contains insoluble calcium oxalate, which is found all over the plant, but especially in the leaves, stems, rhizomes, and roots.

Contact or ingestion can cause vomiting, salivation, or other adverse effects. Ensure that people and pets can’t come into contact with it.

Wear gloves and proper protective gear when handling.

Always wash your hands thoroughly after contact, or any other object or body part that touches it. It can also cause skin irritation.

Quick care guide: Rex begonia

What’s rex begonia?

This pretty herbaceous hybrid is a common plant that’s grown indoors.

It’s a hardy perennial that’s suited for outdoor growth only in zones 10-12. It can be grown as an annual if you’re outside of that zone.

If you want to propagate it as a perennial though, and you’re not in zones 10-12, then you’ll have to shelter it inside. But you knew that, right?

They’re known for their showy, large leaves. The blooms? Not so much. They’re tiny and most gardeners will cut them off to focus the energy on the leaves.

Rex begonias aren’t the same as other rhizomatous begonias because they have larger leaves with different husbandry.

Most of these plants have rounded, dense, teardrop leaves. They can get up to 7” wide depending on care, species, and hybrids.

They can also have long, skinnier leaves too. The leaves are metallic with silver coloration with a green, gray, or pastel hue.

The leaves are puckered with veins. There are splotches with contrasting leaf margins. There are dozens of patterns available, but the most common colors include taupe, cream, purple, pink, lavender, red, or gray.

There are over 500 different identified cultivars of rex begonia!

Types of rex begonia

There are many types of rexes to choose from. This can be the hardest part of the entire process!

But limit it to what grows in your zone, then go by color. This will narrow it down. Many hybrids look very similar to each other.

But if you don’t want to do the deep dive, check out these popular cultivars:

• Rex Tango (metallic purple foliage with silver edges, stronger leaf coloration)
• Spitfire (pink leaves with silver/green edges, 8″ tall and wide)
• Tornado (exotic, dark green leaves with silver, copper, purple)
• Yamileth (green/black leaves, silver edges)
• Ballet (silver-green leaves, mid-green edges, 8″ tall)
• Rumba (8″ tall, greenish leaves, silver variegation)
• Salsa (silver leaves with variegated green/burgundy)
• Silver Limbo (small, compact, metallic silver, purple, 5″ tall)
• Flamenco (silver green, green veins, 8″ tall)

Propagation

Rex begonia can be propagated in multiple ways. Some are easier than others. See which one works for you.

From seed

Starting from seed is difficult and takes a long time. I would suggest skipping over this if possible, unless you like a challenge.

What makes starting from seed so difficult?

The plants are hybrid, so that means that plants that germinate from saved seeds won’t grow true.

They also are extremely hard to plant because they’re tiny. Plus, they’re hard to germinate in the first place. For these reasons, you should avoid starting from seed. There are easier ways.

From cuttings

If you want to do it from cuttings, you should know that it’ll take a lot of time to do so.

You’ll need consistent effort to propagate rex begonias from leaves, but it’s possible.

This is why starting from rhizomes is the easiest recommended method. But if you’re looking for a project, perhaps this will tickle your fancy.

Propagating from leaf cuttings is often the ideal way to do it if you want to grow more of a specific cultivar or expand your species collection.

When you share cuttings, you can get different species in your garden.

To start from cuttings, snip off a leaf at the base of the stem, then remove the stem itself. Make 5 small 0.25” cuts through the main veins on the underside of the leaf.

Prep a small, shallow pot filled with high-quality soil. Pin the leaf on the surface using propagation pins. You can also DIY it and use a floss stick if you have one.

Mist the surface of the leaf. Put it somewhere warm with high humidity.

Use a plastic bag or humidity dome to preserve it. Mist it daily to keep it moist. After 6-8 weeks, you should have small plants coming out from the leaf cuts.

Move them into individual pots by gently uprooting them from the soil. It’s probably easier to wet them first so they can dislodge easily.

Repot when they’re about 3 inches tall so they have built some strong root systems.

From rhizomes

Rex begonia can be grown from rhizome cuttings. This is preferred over starting from seed because it saves time, energy, and heartbreak.

You can buy small rhizome cuttings online or get some from a friend. Check your online local groups. The rhizome must be taken from fully grown specimens.

The rhizome should have its roots and foliage already attached. You just need to use a sterilized knife to slice a piece from one end of the rhizome.

Ensure that it has no leaves, if it does, cut them off. Let it sit in a shady area for a few hours to dry out.

Get a small potter or use a seed starter kit. Fill it with a high-quality, moist, potting mix. Put the rhizome on top, then press it so the root side is below the soil line.

The top part should remain above. Put the plant in a humid area with bright, dappled sunlight.

Spritz regularly with a spray bottle. Keep it moist, but never wet. The rhizome will start growing new roots and leaves within 2-3 weeks.

Put a plastic bag over the pot. This helps keep the moisture in. Keep it at room temperature. The ideal time to root rhizomes is between late spring to summer.

This gives them time to grow before the winter, when they stop growing. They’ll have some meat on the bone, to say the least.

When they get large enough, it’s time to repot! Repot to a larger pot by tipping the plant from the potter. Brush the debris off.

Cut the leaves/roots off by removing the entire rhizome section. Repot using the same mix with the same shallow pots you’d use for other older plants. They’ll acclimate and then start growing within 2 weeks.

From transplants

When cuttings or seeds aren’t your thing, go to the nursery to buy a new plant!

This is by far the quickest method, but it’s the most expensive. You’re paying a premium to get a head start on a germinated rex begonia.

Get your container ready by finding one of the same size. Prep it with high-quality soil.

Scoop out enough soil so you can place the rhizome halfway above the soil. Firm the soil. Water gently establishes water pathways. It should drain quickly.

How to care for rex begonia

This section covers general care for rex begonia plants. You don’t need special skills to grow them. You just need to know some basics.

Hardiness zone

Rex begonias thrive in USDA hardiness zones 10-12. But this only matters for the great outdoors, not inside the house.

You can easily grow rex begonia as a houseplant even in the lower zones if conditions are good inside your house.

Many gardens in the community will grow these guys as houseplants that spend all year inside, except for the summertime when they’ll get some natural sunlight outside.

If you want the beauty of it outside, you can grow it as an annual.

But then you’ll need to be within zones 10-12. It can also be hard to provide the right amount of humidity, temperature, and watering to keep the plant thriving.

They’re also finicky about their light source. But you’ll find that the color they reward you with is worth it.

Soil

Providing a suitable substrate is the most important step in your plant’s success. Rex begonia requires a porous, peat-based medium.

Go to your local garden center in search of an African violet mix. This is suitable for rexes.

If you can’t find it, you can use a regular potting mix. Just mix it with perlite or compost to help improve the drainage.

Soil pH

Rex begonias should have a peat-based potting mix with a pH of 5.7-6.4.

They have a very fine root system that requires quick-draining soil with high-quality peat-based substrate. They like acidic soils.

Spacing

Rex begonias don’t like to crowd. They can get up to 24” wide, so provide ample spacing between plants. You should only plant one per container.

If garden sowing, provide 36” for a buffer zone. You can plant multiple if they’re not in pots.

Depth

Plant seeds on the soil surface. For rhizome-based specimens, plant the top half above the soil line. For rhizome-less ones, place the crown even with the soil line.

Sunlight

These plants will need adequate sunlight. This is one of the things that makes it difficult to grow rex begonia indoors.

They need a lot of light, but they don’t want direct light. You need to find a spot that has dappled sunlight. It should be bright, but never direct.

Use filtered or dappled light or use a grow light. If you put the plant near a sunny window, rotate the pots weekly by a quarter so it gets light equally.

If your plant grows lopsided, this is why. They can handle full or partial shade if you grow the outside. But inside, you need to give them ample light.

When transferring outside, they need some time to harden off. Give them a week of increasing light exposure.

Temperature

Rex begonias thrive in daytime temperatures around 70F and 60F by night. This will encourage your plant to grow nice and big.

During the warmer summer, you can put your rex outside. This gives them some “real” exposure to the environment, which can only be good for hardening them off! Ensure that the temperature remains above 60F at all times.

You can leave it outside overnight if the temperature is stable.

Bring them back indoors when temperatures start to hover around 60F at night or predicated cooler weather. Avoid putting it outside when it’s too hot, this can burn the plant. The low-temperature tolerance is 60F.

The high tolerance is 80F. Keep it between those two and you’re good to go.

Humidity

Keep the humidity at 50% or higher. If you notice that the leaves have yellow or brown edges, you need to humidify the environment.

You can raise it by placing your plant in the kitchen or bathroom. Or you can just put a saucer of water nearby. This should be enough to raise the humidity.

Never mist your plants directly. It can lead to mildew.

Watering

Water can help lower the temperature and increase the humidity, other than being a necessary ingredient for all plants.

Rex begonias need consistent moisture.

Water regularly, but don’t overwater. The soil should be slightly, but evenly moist. Let it dry before watering again. Don’t let it go dry or it’ll wither.

But never over water. If you notice root rot or yellow foliage, this is a sign of overwatering. This is why soil must be well-draining. Water evenly and deeply.

Never water the leaves. Only the base. Use a watering can to do it. The top 1-2” of soil should be moist, but never wet. Use a moisture meter for accuracy.

Use filtered water to avoid salt deposits or if you have hard water. Place a large saucer under the pot to help collect runoff. It also keeps the humidity up.

Plant food

Provide a balanced plant liquid fertilizer.

Use a 10-10-10 NPK ratio. Rex begonias will benefit from plant food during the spring to summer when it’s growing.

The plant should be watered before fertilizing. Avoid watering post-fertilizing because you may wash it off.

Stop fertilizing in the winter because it’ll go dormant. Use fertilizer made for houseplants only.

Growing outside

Rex begonias can be grown outside as a herbaceous perennial if you’re in USDA hardiness zones 10-12.

If you’re not in this tight zone, you should only plant it inside as a houseplant.

If planting outside, the conditions need to be right. The temperature should be stable with enough spacing.

Growing in containers

You can easily grow rex begonia in a container. These plants are rhizomatous, which means you can use a shallow container with good drainage.

The shallow container lets the soil drain water quickly. The pot should be larger than the root ball.

It does like to be rootbound, but when they start spilling over, it’s time to replant into a larger container.

Pruning

Pruning regularly is good for rex begonia because it keeps them tidy, colorful, and big. Removing leaves that are spent from the plant or debris from the soil is good practice.

This helps keep pests or pathogens off your plant. If you’re putting it outside in the warmer months, this is especially important because bugs are active during this time.

Check for pests before you bring them back inside.

Pruning is only necessary if you’re growing upright varieties of rex begonia.

Cut off the stems at the crown when the leaves are showing brown tips. Prune a few stems from the leaves to help them tidy. The tips do NOT need to be pinched. If you do, it’ll encourage branching.

Repotting

You’ll regularly want to check the rhizomes on the edges of the pot.

If the rhizomes are too wide, snip some of the rotted sections so you can propagate more plants. See the rhizome propagation section above.

Repotting will help keep the plant growing if the roots are too close together. They need to be swapped to a larger pot as they get bigger.

They’ll benefit especially when the stems are so close to the edges of the plant. This can cause the water drainage to be blocked. Choose a pot that’s 1-2 sizes bigger than the previous one.

Overwintering

Wintering Rex begonias is easy. Just bring them indoors.

Provide adequate humidity by using a container of water or putting it near a moist area. Avoid placing plants near drafts or direct sunlight. Stop fertilizing. Reduce watering.

Pests

There are quite a few pests that can get into your plant, especially during the summer months where there are a lot of them.

Calcium oxalates in the leaves and rhizomes generally repel wildlife like deer or rabbits, but they don’t do anything for common pests.

Here are some of the most common rex begonia bugs you’ll find:

Spider mites

Spider mites are tiny, microscopic bugs that pierce holes in the leaves to extract the precious water.

If there are too many of them, they can do serious damage to your plant. They’re tiny mites that feed on foliage.

They leave behind yellow dots on the surfaces. If you notice leaves wilting or dropping, it can be spider mites.

Use insecticidal soap to get rid of them. Be sure that there is enough humidity.

Mealybugs

These bugs will leave behind honeydew that turns into a sooty black mold.

If you see twisted leaves, look for eggs or visible adults. They can be removed with alcohol-dipped cotton buds. These guys will pierce the leaves of your plant, which can cause hydration problems.

Other pests include thrips, scale, snails, etc. Your basic garden pests. Reduce watering, clip spent leaves, and regularly prune your plant to help keep bugs off.

Diseases

There are a few common issues that rex begonias can get.

But if you keep humidity about 50% with well-draining soil, you should be good. Make sure there’s no water blockage, as this is a common way these plants get sick. Here are some common pathogens and how to get rid of them:

Bacterial leaf spot

This leaf spot creates lesions that look like they’re soaked with water.

The leaves will drop, but because the bacteria is inside the leaves, the dropped ones are dangerous. The bacterium can move inside the plant.

It’s especially common when temperatures are sustained over 80F. Be sure to avoid watering the leaves when you water. Ensure that the soil drains well. Keep humidity stable.

If you see leaf spot damage, you may need to dump the plant and then sanitize everything. Use a fungicide if you want to try to get rid of it. It’s much easier to start from a new plant though. So it’s up to you.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is very common among house plants such as calla lilies or butterwort. These fungi thrive in humid conditions, which is why you need to keep temperatures/humidity stable. Use a cotton bud soaked in alcohol to wipe the leaves.

Root rot

Root rot is another common pathogen that’s caused by roots standing in stagnant water.

If the soil poorly drains, it’s a contributing factor to root rot. It’s drowning the root system. This is why you never overwater.

This is why you use well-draining soil. Do you see a pattern yet?

Avoid overwatering. If the soil is soggy or the leaves are turning pale, it can be a sign that root rot is taking place.

Wilting foliage is another symptom. A smelly odor is another sign. Isolate rhizomes and remove damaged roots. If you plan to replant, sterilize everything first.

Other issues you may come across include leaf spot, botrytis, southern blight, crown rot, anthracnose, cerscopora, and milew.

Companion plants

There are plenty of companions to pair rex begonia with, but you should never put them in the same pot!

They’ll compete for nutrients in the soil, so be sure to keep them separate.

Pair them with other large, single-shade leaves like pothos or silver swords. Boston ferns, parlor palms, are also excellent choices.

Some other choices include the following:

• Coleus
• Impatiens
• Black Mondo Grass
• Torenia
• Boston Fern
• Silver Nickel Vine
• Caladium
• Persian Shields
• Fiber Optic Grass
• ‘Brigadoon’ St. John’s wort
• ‘Persian Chocolate’ moneywort
• Yellow corydalis

Don’t plant with

You can pretty much pair your rex begonia with anything. Just don’t put them in the same pot. If you’re growing it outside, provide plenty of space between the begonia and other plants.

Best uses

Rex begonia can be used as a decorative piece. They’re commonly placed on windowsills, patios, or decks.

They can be used throughout the season in the summer, then again in the winter indoors.

They can be used in hanging baskets or even in the bathroom! These guys can be put anywhere that needs a bit of color.

Double that for bathrooms or rooms with high humidity. If you need to add a splash of color, rex begonia has your back.

While they can be stubborn, they just need the RIGHT degree of TLC.

Enjoy your rex begonia

Now that you know the basics of how to grow and care for rex begonia, go for it! These plants are rewarding, even if they’re slightly temperamental with their temperature requirements.

They can be presented on your porch for a nice splash of color. Or just put on your coffee table for a conversation piece.

How do you plan to use yours?

Further reading

Check out these other references you may find useful:

• Rex Begonia – UFL
• Rex Begonia | Home and Garden Education Center – UOC

The post How to Grow Rex Begonia (Easy Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

This blooming perennial grows from rhizomes, which makes it extremely easy to grow.

It’s commonly used for container planting, borders, or indoor houseplants!

Gardeners often grow calla lilies because of their gorgeous color availability.

Let’s dive in and learn how to grow and care for callas.

Quick care guide: Calla lilies

Toxicity warning

Calla lilies are known to contain calcium oxalate, which can cause burning or swelling when consumed.

Never handle it without protection and always wash your hands thoroughly after contact (or any other body part that touches it).

Keep pets and people away from calla lilies to prevent adverse reactions.

Types of calla lilies

There are many varieties of this plant.

Choose according to your hardiness zone, climate, and preferences.

Here are some of the most popular types of calla lilies:

• Zantedeschia aethiopica (Common white calla lily, 4 feet tall, blooms well)
• Edge of Night (30 inches tall, 3 black lines)
• Zantedeschia elliottiana (g=Golden calla, 3 feet,  yellow lily flowers)
• Purple Sensation (Purple lily, 18 inches tall, 5 inch spathes, pink-purple)
• Zantedeschia rehmannii (Red or pink calla lily, 1.5 feet tall, pink spathes 3 to 4 inches in diameter)
• Zantedeschia Picasso (Purple, pink, white, bi-colored flower)
• Captain Safari lily (24 inches tall, orange flowers, gold with arching blue foliage)

How to propagate calla lilies

In zones 8-11, callas are hardy so they can be divided and then replanted in the fall. The rhizomes can be cut in half and then planted as described later in this guide.

Starting from seed is also possible. Soak the seeds for 24 hours then sow them 0.5 inches deep in a damp seed starter.

Keep the ambient temperatures warm, at least above 68F.

Germination time varies depending on the temperature, but you should expect them to sprout in one week, but may take up to 3 months to do so. Seedlings will need at least 2 years to bloom.

When to plant

Calla lilies are usually planted in the spring after all frost has passed. The soil needs to be warm enough so the rhizome can sustain itself. If it’s still cold, the rhizome won’t root.

The ideal time to plant depends on whether you’re growing them in the north or south. In most zones (zone 8 or higher), they’ll be hardy right away in the garden.

Plant 30 days before the last average frost. In lower zones, plant callas in the springtime after all frost has opposed.

Soil temperatures should be at least 65F or higher. If you have a short season, start the rhizomes in containers indoors first. Give them 30 days before you move them to the garden.

It’s possible to force calla hybrids for a winter bloom. Give them 3 months for them to flower. Grow them in a container, but plan ahead.

How to grow calla lilies

Calla lilies are extremely easy to grow. They’re a perfect beginner plant because they don’t require too much work to make them flourish.

These lilies only ask that you choose the right location when planting them so they get the proper sunlight requirements and the right soil type. Those are the two most important things to consider when planting calla lilies.

How to care for calla lilies

Place the rhizomes of Z. aethiopica 4 inches deep. Space them 12 inches apart. You can get away with half the spacing, but you may encourage competition between the plants.

For other hybrids, plant the rhizomes just 2 inches deep. Space 18 inches apart. The rhizome’s eyes should be facing towards the soil surface. Gently cover with loose, fertile soil.

Hardiness zone

Calla lilies do well in USDA hardiness zones 7-11. For warmer zones, you can keep them in partial shade with no mulch. For cooler zones, keep them in full sun with regular mulching during the wintertime.

This will help insulate the plant. Colorful callas will bloom in the late spring to early summer. Zones 8-11 can be grown without mulch. Zone 7 needs to be mulched.

When planted after the last spring frost, you can expect flowers in the summer.

Soil type

Calla lilies require well-draining, loose soil. The soil should always be damp. You should never let it completely dry out between watering. The callas will grow as border plants or in the eye of gardens up to 12 inches of water.

Soil pH

Callas will flourish in slightly acidic soils

For colorful hybrids, ensure that the soil is loose enough for the roots to expand and be fertile with nutrients.

They can also do well in full sun in northern zones, but the sun needs to be limited to morning and afternoon shade in southern zones. Keep their pH slightly acidic between 5.5-6.5.

Use soil amendments to lower the pH or raise it.

Plant depth

Plant calla lilies about 4 inches deep. They require more soil depth than other plants. This will help them root and protect the rhizome from sudden temperature changes.

The soil is insulated from temperature swings.

Spacing

Space each plant about 12 inches apart.

Don’t plant them too close or else they’ll compete for nutrients. You can put them closer if you want, but no less than 6” apart.

For hybrids, space them at least 18 inches apart. Give them adequate spacing or else they’ll grow smaller.

Watering

The area should be watered well. Calla lilies enjoy being moist, but you should never overwater. They hate wet feet. Use your finger to feel the top inch of soil. If it’s near dry, go ahead and water.

For hybrids, water them less than non-hybrid strains.

Callas enjoy damp to wet soil, such as those found at the edges of ponds. The soil should never be completely dry. Bright hybrids should be moist, but never soggy.

For container plants, allow the soil to slowly dry once the foliage dies back into dormancy. Use a soil moisture meter so you know when to water.

Fertilizing

Calla lilies will benefit from a monthly dose of liquid fertilizer during the growing season. Use half the dosage at first if you get any adverse reactions from your callas.

If they’re good, then use the full dosage. Only use fertilizer during the summertime. Taper off during the fall to the winter.

Calla lilies don’t actively produce flowers in the winter, so they don’t need plant food. Feed calla rhizomes with an inorganic bulb fertilizer with an NPK of 3-5-3. Use as directed.

Fertilizers should be scattered over the soil beneath the rhizomes when they’re planted. Later on, apply plant food to the surface in the fall when they’ve finished blooming.

Weeding

Keep weeds out of the same plant bed as your lilies. They’ll outcompete the callas for nutrients, which will lead to drooping or failed blooms.

You can use some mulch to help keep the weeds out. It also helps insulate the rhizome from temperature swings.

Sunlight

Calla lilies prefer to be planted in full sun for proper blooming.

If you’re in a warmer zone, you can plant in partial shade. This will prevent scorching. If you’re growing indoors, place them near a sunny window so they get the energy they need to produce those flowers.

Other things to note

As I mentioned earlier, calla lilies don’t need much care. This is why they’re a popular choice for those who want a gorgeous plant that’s easy to care for.

Other than regularly watering them when they go near dry and fertilize often.

Container growing

Calla lilies can be grown in containers easily. Hybrid callas fare well in planters. For container planting, choose hybrid varieties.

Place them outside in the summer and indoors in the winter. They can be spaced closer when potted in containers compared to garden planting. An 8 inch potter can hold 2-3 smaller callas or 1 larger one. A 12 inch pot can hold 3 larger rhizomes.

Cover with 2 inches of soil. Use fertilizer regularly. Container plants will need more water than plants sown in the soil. You can expect blooms for at least 45 days.

Winter dormancy

Calla lilies require a dormancy period in the winter to recharge. Think of it as a time for them to rest and regenerate for the next season.

If they don’t get time to rest, they may not produce the same volume of blooms next season. You can tell when they enter dormancy because they stop producing flowers.

Refrain from adding plant food or watering. The plant needs to die back during this time. It’s normal.

Don’t be scared. But there are some steps you need to take to protect your lily during the wintertime or else they’ll suffer.

Do NOT leave them outside in the cold during this time. For container grown calla lilies, cease watering then move the pot to a shaded place once the foliage has faded.

Continue watering within 3 months when temperatures get warm again. Plants will not bloom if they’re not given a period of dormancy.

How to winterize

Calla lilies will need to be dug up in the fall. The rhizomes should be removed from the soil through gentle uprooting after the first frost. Use a spade to dig it up, carefully.

Don’t cut the rhizome or the roots. Clean off any debris or soil that’s stuck to the rhizome. When you’ve removed the debris, store the calla lilies in some organic peat moss.

Keep them somewhere dry, cool, and dark. Keep them there throughout the cold season until warmer temperatures return in the spring.

You can keep them indoors. When the soil is warm again, bring them back outside in the spring. This is when you should propagate the calla lilies. Do it when they’re lifted or during the winter dormancy period.

If you live in a lower hardiness zone, you’ll need to keep their rhizomes dormant inside your house over the winter. Hybrids can’t stay outside during the winter.

They need to be brought inside. For Z. aethiopica, it doesn’t go dormant. So keep the entire plant inside as a houseplant during the winter time.

Hybrids

Bring calla lilies inside when the plant has died back on its own. Then dig up the rhizomes.

Bring the plant indoors before your first frost in the fall. Put it in a bright, cool location.

Temperatures should be between 55-65F for optimal production.

Non-hybrids

To protect them from cold damage, rhizomes need to be dug up and then stored in the winter. When the plant has died back, cut it off 2-3 inches from the soil.

Dig up the rhizomes. Clean off debris or dirt. Then put them in a dry, dark location for a couple weeks. Store them in a cardboard box with barely damp soil.

Use peat moss or vermiculite. Store at 60F. Check it a few times during the winter to ensure that it’s not too wet or else it can lead to shriveling.

Pruning

Callas can become leggy during the summertime, especially if grown in the shade. You’ll need to cut back the foliage in the fall if you plan to take it inside for dormancy.

For Z. aethiopica, prune it back completely. For hybrids, they don’t require pruning unless you’re removing damaged foliage. Deadhead the faded foliage to keep them blooming or when they go dormant.

Companion plants

Some common plants that can be paired with calla lilies include:

• Catmint
• Lavender
• Hostas
• Cosmos
• Geraniums
• Marigolds
• Creeping jennies
• Roses
• Zinnias
• Plantain lilies
• Dahlia
• Daylilies
• Crane’s bill
• Dianthus

There are tons of partner plants that go well with callas. Combine various colors that are complementary for a gorgeous color flow.

Don’t plant with

Calla lilies shouldn’t be planted with plants that have opposing requirements or within the same genus. They’ll compete for nutrients.

Pests

Calla lilies don’t have pest issues, but some rodents are known to chew on the plant. Squirrels, voles, or deer are known to be an issue pest.

But they can be fenced off from your callas to protect them.

Other than rodents, you may encounter caterpillars, scales, mealybugs, beetles, spider mites, and other common insects.

They can be ridden using an insecticide. Use as directed.

Diseases

Calla lilies are prone to Pythium rot, powdery mildew, southern blight, botrytis, rust, leaf spot, root rot, soft rot, rhizome rot, and other issues usually cause by high humidity.

It’s important to allow proper evaporation by regularly pruning. Use a well draining soil to help remove excess water.

Enjoy your calla lilies!

Calla lilies are one of the easiest perennials to care for if you have damp soil.

They go well with tons of other plants and pair well with shorter grasses. Perfect for borders or edges, these lilies stand out from the crowd.

What color do you plan to grow? Let me know in the comments!

The post How to Grow Calla Lilies (Beginner’s Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

And for good reason.

They’re gorgeous! These shrubs are huge and wide with plenty of blossoms, thus making them an excellent plant for void fill or just to really give your garden some colors. They can be blue, orange, pink, purple, or even lavender.

They do take quite some time to reach full size, so you may want to start with a transplant from your greenery if you’re impatient.

But even starting from seed is very rewarding as you can shape the plant however you want. Compact? Freeform? Your choice!

Let’s learn about how to grow and care for rhododendrons. I hope this care sheet helps you get a good grasp of the shrub.

Quick care guide: Rhododendrons

What’s a rhododendron?

It’s a woody flowering shrub that’s known for its large, pink blooms. These shrubs are extremely popular for their ease of care. Being part of the Ericaceae family, they’re similar to their cousins like the fern or huckleberry.

They require little work but reward you with plenty of those gorgeous purple-pink flowers. They come in a variety of sizes, colors, and shapes. They can even be grown in part shade.

With so many variants, they can handle a variety of climates, soil types, and even garden sizes. They can even be planted in containers!

Versatile. Easy to care for. And gorgeous.

Types of rhododendrons cultivars

There are so many different types of rhodies that you’ll be hard-pressed to find the “perfect” strain- if that even exists!

There’s no single one that works for everyone. Each cultivar has its pros/cons. Some are suitable for larger environments that provide plenty of plant cover. There are over 1000 species.

Others are compact that are suitable for container growing. It’s up to you to find what suits your needs. There’s literally a strain for every garden.

If you’re having trouble deciding on which type of rhododendron to get, think about where you’re planting it, the local temperature, your time/energy commitments, and the amount of space you have.

Here are some popular cultivars to get you started:

• America (full sun, 6 feet tall and wide, purple flowers)
• Elvira (bright red flowers)
• Ramapo (compact, woody, purple)
• Rosy Lights (pink, compact, small, cold hardy)
• Augfast (dwarf, compact, blue flowers, 3 feet tall, early bloomer)
• Top Banana (bright red buds)
• Janet Blair (pink flowers, 6 feet tall, drought hardy)
• Catawba (broadleaf, dark green foliage)
• Nancy Evans (4 feet tall, lots of flowers, yellow/pink hybrid flowers)
• Trinidad (cream and red edges)
• Nova Zembla (tolerant of temperature highs/lows, 5 feet height, lots of blossoms, orangish flowers)

How to propagate

Thankfully, Rhododendron is super easy to grow from seed, layering, or just buying one from the nursery.

This plant readily germinates from seed if you enjoy starting from scratch. Read over each propagation method and see which one suits your style.

If you want the most rewarding way, seed sowing is the only way to go. If you want a head start to enjoy the blooms, then go for a nursery transplant instead.

Starting from seed

This is the easiest way to get started.

Get a packet of rhododendron seeds online or at your local garden center. You need to make sure that you get the right species because hybrids can’t be grown from seed. So make sure that it’s not a hybrid rhododendron. Named cultivars also can’t be sown from seed.

The ideal time to sow is in January or February. They can get a head start for the season if there’s sufficient heat. Use a plant heat mat or a grow light to keep them warm. Start with 5” planters.

Get biodegradable ones if you want to save yourself from more work later on. Plastic holds heat poorly compared to terra cotta or organic materials. Just FYI.

Fill it with any generic potting mix. Use a water-retaining medium. If you want to get fancy, you can, but it’s not necessary because this is just the germination pot. You’ll be replanting your seedlings later on into the soil.

Each 5” pot can hold 2-3 seeds. Place them on the surface, but don’t cover them.

Water well using a spray bottle. It’s important to use distilled water only. Soak the water with continuous spraying until it’s nice and moist. The seeds will soak into the soil over time. There’s no need to pat them down.

At this point, just keep the soil moist. Avoid letting it dry out at any point or else you’ll kill the seeds. Temperatures that are high will halt germination. And it won’t germinate either.

Spray 2-3 times daily to keep it moist. You can use a humidity dome (or a plastic cover) to help trap the moisture so you don’t have to water as often.

Place the pots under grow lights or near a sunny window. They need at least 8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

The seeds will germinate in about 10-21 days. Germination time will vary. It depends on the local climate, temperature, watering conditions, sunlight, and cultivar too.

So be patient if you don’t see seedlings in 10 days.

After they germinate, continue the same care regimen. In 8 weeks or so, you should have at least 2 pairs of true leaves. When this happens, it’s time to harden them off by exposing them to the outside elements.

Only do this when the last frost has passed. If not, keep them indoors. Continue to keep them moist, and warm.

When the temperature remains around above 50F or so, it’s time to bring them out to their new home in your garden!

Bring them to your yard for a few hours daily. Put them in the sun for about 6-8 hours. This will get them used to the outside. Do this for 2 weeks or so.

Start with just minimal sunlight exposure. Then increase by an hour every day. Keep the soil moist at all times until you complete the transition.

They’re now ready to go into the yard! Uproot them gently and then sow them into the soil. Be sure to use high-quality soil that’s nutrient dense with moisture-retaining properties.

Starting from cuttings

Propagating from cuttings is the quickest way to get started if you want to grow hybrid rhododendrons. Start in the late summer or fall.

The cuttings should be taken at the heel in the early morning only. Use new cuttings that are still pliable. They should not be hardened. The softwood is less likely to rot after you cut them. If you cut the harder woods, they’ll be prone to rotting. They don’t root well either. So it’s a double negative.

The key to finding the right stem is that it should be younger and has multiple leaves. If it has flowers, that’s fine. Take the cut. Remove any flower buds or spent ones.

Keep only the top few leaves on the stem. Use a sharp, sterilized knife to cut the outer green shell on the bottom 0.5” of the stem. This will expose the interior so it’ll root easier. Use a rooting powder or gel if you wish.

Next, fill a pot with a 50/50 mix of vermiculite or perlite with peat moss to help it root. Peat moss is usually discouraged, but rhododendrons crave it for rooting. Water it until it’s wet. Place the cutting 0.5” deep into the soil and then cover it with a humidity dome.

Place the pot on a heat mat to keep it warm. Continue to keep it moist, but never wet. Spray it daily. Never let it go dry. Keep the temperature within 50-60F. New roots will form in about 6-8 weeks.

You can check to see if your stem has rooted by gently pulling on the stem. If it doesn’t give, then it’s done. If it comes out, check for rot before you reinsert it. Continue to wait for another week.

When it’s rooted, you can move it to your garden!

By layering

Layering is another method that works really well with rhododendrons. In the early fall or late summer, find a low-growing branch and use a sturdy wire to pin it to the soil. You’ll have to bend it to get it to sit.

The point is to keep it pinned into the soil using whatever you have. Keep the bent branch in the soil. Cut off any leaves in the section that’s pinned.

Water it and feed it as you do for the entirety of the plant. Layering basically makes the bent part grow into its own plant. It takes a long time for it to finally root (as in years). So if you want to do this, you’ll need patience. It also only works if you already have a rhododendron plant going in your garden

The roots can be checked the same way as checking a cutting. Give a tug to see if it gives. If not, it’s rooted. If it does, pin it back and let it be.

Once the roots have formed, clip the branch closest to the bush. Dig up the new plant. Clip it on both sides using pruners to release it. Then plant it on its own. It’ll need about 5” of depth, with 10” around. Plant it like a regular transplant.

By transplant

This is the prefeed method if you want to enjoy those blooms quicker. Just buy a good shrub from your local garden center then transplant it into your garden. Try to plant at the same depth as the pot it came in. Provide ample space around it and water it generously.

Use compost to help keep the soil well draining. Try to provide 5 times the width of the container.

The depth can be up to twice the original container depth. But don’t plant too deep because this can harm your shrub.

Don’t remove any of the debris that’s stuck on the roots either. They have beneficial bacteria. You can prune after you’ve planted and given it a few days to harden off.

How to grow

Rhododendrons are extremely easy to grow and tolerate a variety of conditions- everything from shade to full sun. I’ll try to get you a summary of the ideal conditions so you can get the most out of your plant.

They grow bigger with more blossoms and numerous flowers if they’re grown correctly. But it also depends on the cultivar type.

The following sections contain tips to maximize the flowers per annum.

Hardiness zone

This woody shrub is perfect for USDA hardiness zones 4-10. But even if you’re slightly outside the suggested hardiness zone range, you should be fine if you opt for a cultivar that’s less sensitive to warm or cooler temperatures.

You can also plant in shadier spots if your zone is too warm. Or you can use mulch or plant protection if it’s too cold.

Soil

Rhododendrons prefer soil that’s well-draining, moisture-retaining, and with plenty of nutrition.

They love humus, so consider supplementing some into your substrate. The soil can be clay, sandy, or loamy. They’re not picky as much as the pH.

Soil pH

This plant is quite picky when it comes to pH. Rhododendrons prefer acidic soil with pH values between 4-6. If the soil isn’t acidic, it will produce poor blossoms.

The soil can be amended with pH down to bring it to a more favorable range. The soil can be mixed with pine bark to help drop the pH. Or you can grow in a pot with primed soil.

Some compact hybrids can be grown in containers with the right soil. Use ericaceous soil/fertilizer.

The majority of gardeners will use sulfur-based soil supplements to help lower pH. Use a soil meter to test the acidity. It should be acidic, but never basic.

You’ll need to adjust the soil levels to get the most out of your plant. Results will vary depending on the soil type. Avoid using aluminum sulfate because it’s based on sodium, which doesn’t take well to rhododendrons. They hate salt in the soil.

Depth

For seeds, sow at the surface. For transplants, use the same depth as the original planter.

Spacing

Space each plant at least 5 feet apart. Bigger cultivars should be spaced up to 10 feet apart to reduce them fighting over nutrients. These guys can grow upwards of 30 feet tall and 30 feet wide. So give adequate space.

Temperature

Temperatures between 50-70F are a good range. When temperatures drop to the 40s, you’ll notice that the foliage will begin to droop.

They won’t curl until the temperatures drop to 32F. But even then, your shrub will be okay. They can handle temperatures as low as 10F as long as it’s not for extended periods.

On the other end, they can tolerate heat too. Temps as high as 90F will be fine. Some cultivars can tolerate heat, but most will prefer just warm and humid environments. 

Humidity

These shrubs don’t like wet feet. If the water pools and doesn’t drain, it can cause rot issues.

You should keep humidity moderate to high, but with plenty of space for water to evaporate.

This can be achieved by regularly pruning dense foliage, using a good-quality substrate, and not overwatering.

Watering

These plants can handle a lot of water, but even then, you shouldn’t go crazy with them. It’s possible to overwater rhodies. If you do it often, it can severely damage your plant.

But if you don’t want enough, the same goes both ways.

So find the happy medium and go for that. Use a soil moisture meter if you don’t know how much to water. You’ll want to keep it moist at all times, but never wet or fully dried out. If the soil doesn’t drain well, it can also lead to pooling water at the base.

Overall, rhodies need a lot more water than your typical garden plant. They’re native to the northwest, which rains a lot. These plants will need plenty of water when young.

Established plants will need less. So you can taper off as needed. Signs of not enough water are obviously no blossoms. If you don’t see buds forming on the leaves, browning leaves, or curled leaves, your shrub needs water.

During the spring and summer, never let the top 1” of soil get dry.

If the fall, start reducing the water volume. This will get it ready for the winter. Water less during this time. The soil should be moist before the cold season to help protect the roots.

This is the only time you can let the soil get dry. Then soak it up! This will prepare it for the first freeze within the next day or so. It needs that water to help protect the roots from the cold. Easy enough.

Fertilizing

Rhododendron requires a good amount of plant food to help encourage the strong growth of the branches and produce those pretty flowers.

Ideally, you should fertilize in May and stop in July. If you fertilize too late in the season, your Rhodie will produce new branches which will be harmed by the cold weather. Therefore, you only want it to feed during the spring or summer.

The fertilizer should be diluted and acidic. Look for an NPK of 14-7-7 or something high in nitrogen. It needs N to produce leaves. Work it gently into the base, but don’t go into the root system. It can build up and cause damage.

The soil around the plant should be replaced regularly and weeded too. pH fluctuations will cause the soil to become alkaline over time too. You’ll have to apply soil amendments to keep it slightly acidic. A soil test kit can solve all those problems.

Sunlight

If it’s too shady, your rhododendron will produce buds but they won’t break. This means no flowers.

You’ll need full sun for at least 8 hours daily to get those precious blossoms. If it’s hot in the summer, protection from that scorching is necessary.

Ideally, they should be placed somewhere with early morning sun, followed by afternoon shade. You can use filtered or dappled light for the afternoon by using artificial shade.

While they can grow in the shade, you’ll need full sun to get the blooms. If you’re in a warmer zone, you can plant it in partial shade or grow a cultivar that’s more drought-tolerant.

Wind

Rhododendrons are prone to toppling over from the wind.

They can also get severely damaged by strong gusts. They should be on the eastern side of the oaks or pines. This gets them protection from winds plus they get that morning sun with dappled shade, followed by the evening sun.

That’s the perfect combo to get them producing their signature blossoms. This plant prefers sloped surfaces because the water drains well and they get some wind protection.

Too much wind can break flowers, and buds, and even topple them. Leaf burn is also common from the wind.

Pruning

Rhododendrons require very little pruning. In fact, deadheading is completely optional.

If you’ve cared for other plants like hollyhock or oleander that require deadheading, you’ll be glad to know that you don’t do it for your shrub. Your plant will blossom and bloom without pruning.

If you want to prune, use sterilized pruners. Some people like to keep it shapely by pruning off stems. You can also remove spent flowers or branches that are damaged.

Remove the spent flowers in the summertime. There’s no reason to keep them on your plant because they just waste energy and attract pests. It’ll also help encourage larger blooms next season. Stop pruning in August onwards.

Pruning to keep it compact is key to making them look good. If you want, you can keep them tidy by doing a hard prune. Cut them back.

They won’t get harmed by it. It may even encourage more flowers. Rough-barked can handle more pruning than smooth-barked. Even potted shrubs can be pruned with no damage.

Mulching 

Mulching should only be done sparingly.

The reason is that they have shallow roots that can be damaged easily.

Heavily mulch can be used on days with temperature dips, but avoid letting it touch the stem. If it does, it can lead to rot. Only use shredded pine bark, straw, or leaves from oak.

Try to only use pine or oak products. 2-3 inches of mulch and extend it beyond the drop line. This should be good enough to mulch your shrubs. It helps retain moisture and also protects the fragile roots from temperature swings.

Other commonly asked questions

The following sections cover common questions readers send to us regarding rhodie care. If you have questions of your own, please be sure to post them in the comments.

Overwintering

Rhodies should be pruned in the late spring after flowering. Remove crossing or crowded branches and cut spent flowers. Supplement with mulch or plant covers if you expect prolonged cold. Otherwise, no other care is required if you’re in the right hardiness zones.

Seed collecting

You can collect the seeds by picking the seed pods right before they split.

Only harvest from wind or manually pollinated shrubs. Store the seeds in a zipper bag away from heat. The seed pods must be harvested before they split. These are the pods that protrude from the center of the blossoms.

Pinch them off by grasping them and snapping them off. The seed capsules must be harvested after time has passed following fertilization. If they’re not fertilized, then they’re not to be harvested yet.

Leaf drop

Over time, the woody shrub drops its leaves. This is normal. Older leaves will be shed during the spring and summer. In the winter, cooler temperatures may also cause the leaves to curl or drop.

When it warms back up, your shrub will uncurl those leaves.

If the temperatures are too frigid, then yes, you can expect the leaves to fall. They can handle temperatures as low as 20F. Around that point, the leaves will curl and then droop.

The shrub will be fine if the roots are protected. If it remains in the cold for an extended period, you’ll want to do more to shield it from the cold.

They say you can tell what temperature it is in your yard just by the leaf curl.

Yellow leaves aren’t a sign of temperature, but rather a lack of iron. Supplement with more fertilizer that has iron or just add some to the soil. This will help the leaves turn back to that lime green. It can also be a pH problem. Remember that they like acidic soils.

Buds not blooming?

Buds that form, but don’t bloom are usually due to some kind of watering problem. Shrubs that are under or over-watered will cause the buds to never bloom.

If they break or split but no flower comes out, check your watering regimen. Hot and cold fluctuations can also cause them to not bloom. Bark splitting is also a sign of temperature swings.

You can wrap the plant in burlap or mulch it to help keep it insulated from the temperature.

Can you grow rhodies indoors?

Rhodies are large shrubs that can’t be grown indoors. The only time they should be inside is during seed germination or during the winter (if potted). Otherwise, they need sunlight from your garden for 8 hours a day.

How about containers?

The compact varieties of rhododendrons can be planted in pots. The pot should be large enough to accommodate the roots. Thankfully the roots are quite shallow. The only problem is drainage.

You must use well-draining soil with multiple drainage holes in the pot. The pot should be large enough so that it does get rootbound. Otherwise, care is pretty much the same.

Note that potted plants require more frequent watering compared to soil-sown plants.

Companion plants

Rhodes can be paired with many different shrubs. Some of the most popular companion plants include the following:

• Mountain Laurel
• Japanese andromeda
• Astilbe
• Kalmia
• Pierris
• Viburnum
• Mahonia
• Ginkgo biloba
• Rhody Nyssa
• Alliums
• Blueberries
• Heathers
• Pines
• Oaks
• Wildflowers
• Hostas
• Conifers
• Holly
• Berberis koreana
• Pussy willows
• Bleeding hearts
• Clethra alnifolia
• Berberis thunbergii

Find shrubs that do well in light soil with acidic pH. Evergreen perennials that require full sun exposure will generally be suitable plantmates.

Don’t plant with

There are few plants you want to avoid planting with rhodies, such as walnut or other shrubs that aren’t good at nutrient absorption.

The reason is because rhodies are good at taking up all the nutrition in the soil which can outcompete other nearby shrubs or plants. The leaves also take a long time to break down too. So this can cover up nearby plants which blocks energy production.

Pests

These shrubs are pretty hardy against bugs and don’t suffer as much as their cousins (roses), but there are still a few bugs that you’ll need to watch out for.

Here’s a short list of common insects that you’ll find on rhododendrons:

• Rhododendron Borers
• Lace bugs
• Weevils (multiple types)
• Spider mites
• Sawflies
• Caterpillars
• Bark scale
• Aphids
• Worms

The majority of insects are caused by overwatering or overfeeding. You can control most of them by manual removal, organic insecticides, or using beneficial nematodes. Rodents, deer, or other creatures have been spotted nibbling too.

But established plants are resilient to pests.

Rhodies are very resilient towards pests, so you’ll have time to see what works for you. I suggest starting with manual removal as this can damage their numbers by a huge margin. Then move to insecticides if necessary.

Diseases

There are also a handful of issues you should be careful of that can infest your shrub:

Leaf spot, bud blast, root rot, Botrytis, phomopsis dieback, phytophthora dieback, petal blight, powdery mildew, etc. These are common but can be treated with regular pruning, removing of infested leaves or branches, and reducing watering.

You may need to use a copper fungicide to help eliminate rot problems.

Usage scenarios

These shrubs are excellent for plant cover with their huge, voluminous blooms. Use these shrubs to build a privacy wall, foundation plant, or plant color. They can also provide shade for shorter plants. Use them for plant borders, pots, etc.

They’re simple to grow and will produce flowers every season. If you want a plant that’ll cover the sides of your garden or void fill, this is it. They offer plenty of coverage with some cultivars going over 40′. That’s a wall of flowers indeed.

Further reading/references

Check out these resources for more info:

• Rhododendron – Home & Garden Information Center
• Rhododendron – Reddit
• Rhododendron – Wikipedia

Enjoy your rhodie

Rhododendrons are versatile shrubs that are excellent for newbies.

These colorful, large shrubs can be used for a variety of purposes. With their ease of care and amazing flowers, it’s no wonder why they’re favored amongst those in the hobby.

How will you use your shrub? Post your thoughts!

The post How to Grow Rhododendrons (Beginner’s Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

The rest of the year? Not so much. It’s kind of like winterberry holly or mistletoe.

But didn’t you know that you can grow it in your house and enjoy it all year long (other than the summertime?).

This guy will even bloom for you. And produce a variety of leaves that you can enjoy even during winter.

Plus, it’s a super low maintenance houseplant that not a lot of people considering growing. So if you want something unique, this is it.

Let’s talk about how to grow and care for shamrock!

Last update: 2/16/23.

Quick care guide: Shamrock (Oxalis spp.)

What’s Shamrock?

Oxalis spp., commonly known as shamrock, is natively from Africa and South America.

You may be accustomed to thinking it’s from kiss me Ireland, but it’s just a misconception. Shamrock is more than shamrock shakes or clovers in the field.

Now there ARE Ireland native varieties, but here in the US, we grow different Oxalis species.

You already know about it from decorating for St. Patty’s day. But they’re more than just a once-a-year plant.

These guys can be planted year-round for attractive, easy-to-care-for indoor pleasure. There are several varieties and they can be grown with just bright light.

This plant is a tiny house plant. Some species grow no more than 6-7 inches at most while others can topple 20 inches.

They can have a variety of delicate leaves that range in colors and shapes from lavender to white to green.

They also produce pretty blooms during the fall, winter, and spring. But not in the summer. They don’t like heat.

Shamrock will fold up their leaves at night and then open them again in the day when they sense light, so it’s one of those plants that “talk” to you.

Other names for shamrock include:

• Trifolium repens
• Clover
• Trefoil
• Dutch clover
• Summer plant
• Seamrog
• Oxalis
• Wood sprig

Where does shamrock come from?

The original Irish shamrock does come from Ireland. It’s a common lawn weed native to the country with its rhizomatous perennial leaves.

However, it’s been brought into other countries in different varieties.

In the US, you’ll commonly come across 3 different types that are differentiated mainly by their colors: purple, white, or green.

Appearance

Shamrock is more than just that tiny green plant you pick from the field. The houseplant can be anything from variegated to striped. The leaves can be purple, green, or pink.

Even the leaf shape can be different sizes with varying patterns. The blooms are white or pink with delicate petals that peek out from the clusters of leaves. The shamrock leaves are three sided and has a symmetric shape overall, but can vary depending on the plant.

Is shamrock poisonous?

Shamrock is indeed poisonous. Pets, people, and any other creatures should be kept away from Oxalis plants. Ingestion may cause acid poisoning or oxalic acid poisoning.

Types of shamrock

There are many different types of Oxalis species, each with its own variations in color, size, and more. In the US, you’ll find three that are most commonly grown.

Green Shamrock (O. regnellii)

Green shamrock is one with bright green foliage. They can be various shapes from triangular to spade-shaped.

This is the most popular cultivar here with its large white flowers that contrast perfectly with the lush green foliage.

There are other variations that include variegated leaves, such as Irish Mist, Hairy Woodsorrel, Wood Sorrel.

Purple Shamrock (O. triangularis)

False shamrock has those dark, purple-colored leaves with lavender/white flowers.

The blossoms are light in color while the foliage is dark, so it’s very striking to look at.

Some purple types include Love Plant or Mijke. The leaves are purple, pink, or lavender. They’re symmetric with three sides. They’re lighter in the center with a rosy color.

Why grow it?

That’s a good question. A lot of people grow this plant because it requires little maintenance, is drought tolerant, and can withstand desert temperatures down to 10F before it starts to wilt.

It can be purchased from the nursery and then replanted in the garden with ease when it’s still manageable. It also doesn’t need any work nearly all season other than occasional watering or pruning.

Plus, it looks awesome. This plant can attract beneficial pollinators to your yard, such as bees and hummingbirds.

Is it beginner friendly?

Yes, shamrock is very easy to grow and good for beginners. Once you get it set up and rooted, it takes care of itself.

You only need to water it and prune it. Plus give it some plant food once in a while. But that’s about it.

Can you eat shamrock root?

Shamrock root from SOME species is considered edible.

They’re large and have been cultivated as a crop in New Zealand, however, you should avoid eating the roots without consulting a professional.

If you don’t know how to identify the root properly, you can cause adverse effects from ingestion.

How to propagate shamrock

Shamrock actually can’t be harvested and then regrown from seed.

The plant can only be propagated by using existing shamrock tubers or buying a shamrock plant from the local garden center

This plant doesn’t produce viable seeds, so you won’t find them for sale. Either find a neighbor or friend that can give you some tubers or buy one from the nursery to get it going.

There are two main ways to propagate shamrock. Read them and see which one suits your style!

Propagating by transplanting

You can propagate by doing it the old-fashioned way. Buy a shamrock plant then grab a new pot to transplant it to.

You’ll want to use a planter that’s similar in size (diameter). Check the depth of the original shamrock roots. You’ll want to replant it into a similarly sized pot.

Fill the new pot ⅔ full with a well-draining, nutrient-dense potting mix. Don’t use garden soil. The pot should be well draining with multiple drain ports so it doesn’t get clogged. Shamrock can’t tolerate wet feet!

Gently uproot the original plant by tilting the container to its side. You can water it if the soil is tough or hard. If the roots are rootbound, use sterilized pruners to cut them from the pot.

This will loosen the shamrock plant so you can remove it from the original pot. Remove the soil from the shamrock roots. You won’t be able to get it all off, but you can get most of it off by using water to loosen it.

Replace the soil with a new potting mix. Don’t use the original soil because it’s likely depleted of nutrients. Be gentle when doing any sort of cutting. Trim only as much as you need to.

Recycling the soil may also introduce pests to your new pot. This is why you should remove as much as you can.

Place the shamrock into its new home. The plant should be placed about half an inch taller than the original container.

This allows it to sit in over time because it’ll seep into place. Fill around the shamrock with new soil. Pat it down. Then water it!

Keep the container within temperatures of 60-70F. It’s preferred to keep it cooler than warmer. Water it daily, but don’t overdo it. It should be moist but never wet.

Place the container next to a sunny spot, but not directly in the sun. use dappled filtered light only.

Propagating by dividing

You can also easily divide shamrock from a neighbor’s plant. You’ll need a virulent, established shamrock to extract plant sections from.

The ideal time to divide is in the fall, usually from October onwards.

This is because the plant will produce so you can extract! Autumn is when new shoots appear and are good for dividing the tubers in the plant. You can get more shamrocks to give away or expand your collection.

Get high-quality, nutrient-dense, well-draining soil. I know. Everyone says that. But it’s because it’s THAT important.

Next, grab a potter that’s well draining and has at least a 5” diameter. The material of the pot matters.

Choose one that’s terracotta or ceramic. Pretty much anything that’s porous. This material helps minimize temperature swings, which can be harmful to younger shamrock seedlings.

Don’t use plastic. It quickly heats up and doesn’t retain heat overnight. The pot should have at least 3 holes to drain. Double-check that it doesn’t require you to drill them yourself!

Fill the pot with potting soil one inch from the rim of the container. Let the soil sit by shaking it so it evens out.

Water it so it’ll settle down even more. You can give it a generous watering for the first time so it can build water pathways.

Gently tilt the pot so you can unearth the plant. You only need to take out the top few inches of soil to see the shamrock roots. Find a tuber that’s at least 1” in diameter with complete roots on it.

If it has stems, that’s preferred so you know you’re pulling a tuber that’s ready to root. The tuber can be removed by gently pulling it away from the others. But if it’s too tangled, ignore it.

Wipe off any debris or soil stuck on it. Then place it into the new pot at 1” deep. Cover it with a potting mix, but don’t pat it.

You want it near the surface of the soil line because if it’s too deep, it’ll likely rot or grow fungus. Plus, shamrock doesn’t like to be wet. Moist is the name of the game.

Put the pot in temperate conditions near a sunny window. The light should be bright, but filtered sunlight that’s NOT direct.

How to grow shamrock

You’ll find that shamrock is a beginner-friendly houseplant that requires very little work. Here are some suggestions to maximize your shamrock’s size.

Got questions? Post your questions in the comments.

Hardiness zone

Shamrock grows well in USDA hardiness zones 8-11. If you’re planning on growing it outside in your yard, be sure that you’re within these zones.

Temperatures that are too hot or cold will make it enter premature dormancy, which can limit those pretty blooms.

Otherwise, if you’re growing it inside your house, then you’ve got nothing to worry about. The zone doesn’t matter for indoor houseplants. So plant on!

Soil

Use well-draining, moisture-retaining soil with plenty of organic nutrients.

You can find a potting mix in nurseries that can be combined with plant supplements in order to get it saturated with nutrients. In other words, if you can’t find the soil you need for your shamrock, make your own!

Use organic soil if possible. Shamrock can be sensitive to harmful compounds in the soil column. Get loamy, sandy, well-draining acidic soil.

Soil pH

The soil pH should be on the acidic side, with a pH range of 4.5-6.5 for shamrock plants.

You can raise the pH of your soil naturally using soil amendments. Potting mix for indoor plants usually fulfills this requirement.

While the pH won’t make or break your shamrock’s production, it can help spruce up the colors and overall happiness of your plant.

Depth

The seeds should be planted 1” from the soil line and lightly covered. If transplanting, it should be planted at the same root depth as the original plant. If growing from cuttings, plant at least 5 inches deep.

Spacing

If you’re planting multiple shamrock tubers in the same pot, give them 3 inches between each to help encourage water evaporation and minimize competition for nutrients.

If you’re just planting one per pot, then space it at least 2 inches more than the longest root. It likes to be snug, but not too tight.

However, shamrock generally fares well when the root are confined so it can focus its energy on the production of blooms.

Temperature

Keep shamrock between 70-80 F during the daytime. During the night, it can tolerate temperatures as low as 50F.

This plant is both sensitive to temps that are too hot and too cold, so keep it in the ideal range. Dormancy is a common sign of temperatures that are way too hot for shamrock to tolerate.

If this is the case, move it away from the windows so it doesn’t face overheating. Premature dormancy is common for shamrocks that are kept directly in the sun.

Humidity

Shamrock prefers average, moderate humidity. Maintain levels between 40-50%. If the air is dry, you can use a humidifier or try placing it near wetter areas like the bathroom or kitchen.

You can also use a pebble tray with water or near a room humidifier.

Sunlight

For south facing windows, place them 2-3 feet away from the window on bright sunny days. It needs dappled light, never direct light. If it’s too sunny, it’ll get dehydrated and may even enter dormancy.

Yellowing or browning leaves, dry leaves, or stunted growth are signs that your shamrock is getting scorched.

Full or partial sunlight is OK, but it depends on your location. Hotter zones should use filtered sunlight only.

Watering

Water shamrock when the top inch of soil feels dry. Don’t let shamrock dry out between watering sessions.

While it has some degree of drought tolerance, it’s not excellent by any means. Soil should remain slightly moist during all periods. Water 2-3 times per month. The soil should nearly dry out between watering, but not completely if you have a well-draining pot.

If the soil is draining poorly, switch containers or let it dry out between waterings as a temporary solution.

Plant food

Shamrock will benefit from nutrition in the soil but takes plant fertilizer as well. Feed your shamrock once every other week in the fall through spring.

When it produces its gorgeous blooms, feed more often using a liquid houseplant fertilizer.

You can dilute it with water to help reduce its strength of it so you can feed it more often. Most shamrocks will do OK without fertilizer, but if you want to produce the maximum of flowers, consider adding some plant food.

Use well-balanced houseplant food. Oxalis varieties will produce the most flowers when grown indoors.

Mulching

Mulching isn’t necessary for shamrock. If temperatures dip below 40F, you can put a half-inch layer of mulch on the soil to help insulate it. Remove during the growing season. Only use sparingly for cold snaps.

Pruning

Pruning should be done with a pair of sterilized scissors or pruners. Remove dead leaves or ugly ones.

Prune to keep it tidy and neat. Cutting back the leaves and spent blossoms are necessary for the summertime when it enters dormancy. Feel free to tidy it up by neatly trimming off yellowing or browning leaves.

Spent flowers should be removed so they can focus their energy on producing other flowers. Cutting it back will help encourage more flowering.

Maintenance

Shamrock requires very little maintenance once established. Just water it 2-3 times per month and give it some high-quality plant food during the growing season.

Cut off spent leaves or flowers during dormancy transition. That’s it.

If you want to keep it in good shape, there are some things you can do to help improve your shamrock!

Repotting

Your plant will outgrow its first home (the 5-inch pot) and will need to be repotted into a bigger pot.

Oxalis doesn’t like too much space between the roots but doesn’t like crowded roots either.

Being rootbound is a good thing, but upgrade as needed. Snug, tight-fitting pots will limit the roots from growing, which then forces the shamrock to produce flowers and leaves instead.

So limiting the pot size is a good thing. When you start seeing the roots come out of the drain holes or compact on the edges, then it’s time to repot. Gently remove it by tilting the pot.

Dig out the soil being careful not to harm the roots. Then place the plant into its new home by sticking it into the center of a prefilled pot with the same or different soil. Fill the new pot 2⁄3 of the way up with soil. It’s also a good time to assess how the soil contents are.

If you want to experiment with other substrates, consider using a soil test kit to see what it’s missing/what it ate. Larger oxalis species can grow upwards of 24 inches wide and 18 inches tall. The smaller ones will max out at 6-8 inches.

When the foliage or stems have grown so dense that it becomes hard to water, it’s time to repot.

Visible roots that come out of the bottom are also another sign that it needs a bigger house. Increase the container size by 2 inches each time to ensure a snug fit. Keep the depth of the original container, but expand its diameter of it.

The roots will be shallow when you uproot them, so be very careful not to damage them.

Remove as much of the old soil stuck on the roots as you can. Settle the crown an inch higher.

The part where the shoots come out from the tubers should be about half an inch taller than the previous pot.

Try to keep the tubers together so it’s uniform. Fill it with soil to hold it in place. Water it well.

Overwintering

Shamrock can be stored between temperatures of 40-50F during the winter.

When the col has passed, the plant will resume blooming. Some cultivars will bloom throughout the winter time, so it’s a good choice for a plant that produces flowers even in the winter.

If you’re planting outside, store the bulbs indoors for the summer. Then in the spring, you can plant them outside with 1” of soil. Water well and expect foliage in a few weeks.

These plants will produce the most blooms indoors rather than outside. Note that if you take a native shamrock and try to plant it indoors, it usually won’t take it well.

Seed saving

Shamrock seeds aren’t viable for saving, so this isn’t an option. This is why you can only buy it from a nursery or use bulbs/tubers from an existing one.

Companion plants

Shamrock pairs well with other colorful houseplants. Although you should grow it in its own container, you can put it next to other houseplants like the Japanese Painted Fern, which makes a good companion to Oxalis triangularis in a perennial setup.

They both have purple, which can create a nice matching color. Amaryllis is another good plant because of its complementary colors. Taller houseplants can match with the shorter shamrock 6 inches.

Don’t plant with

Avoid planting with other houseplants that crowd or shadow the light it needs to thrive.

This includes taller houseplants with large leaves that just block out light. If you plan to put shamrock next to other plants, make sure it gets its sunlight.

Dormancy

Shamrock enters dormancy during the beginning of summer. This plant doesn’t like the heat, so whenever the temps pick up, it’ll go into sleeping mode.

It can also happen if there’s a heat wave going on or if you don’t water it enough. Sometimes wide temperature swings can also make it go into early dormancy.

The stems will drop and the flowers will sag. If you find that your shamrock randomly entered dormancy, you can stop watering and fertilizing. The leaves will turn yellow or brown over time.

Then they’ll drop off. Prune the foliage that’s dead. Relocate the pot to a cooler spot in your place. Then leave it there for the next month or so.

For natural dormancy, you’ll want to give a rest period.

Green leaf shamrock will usually stay dormant for up to 90 days. Purple leaves will sleep for 30 days.

When the new offshoots start to show up, it’s good to go again. Dormancy is over. Your shamrock is awake. Congrats. You can put it back to its original location, begin feeding and resume watering.

For dormancy stemming from stress or heat, follow the same steps. You can’t snap it out of dormancy. It needs to rest before it’ll produce. So let it be. Fix whatever the issue was that caused the dormancy in the first place.

The dormant period will vary depending on the cultivar and local growing conditions. As soon as you see the new shoots, then dormancy is broken. Resume care to get rewarded with those pretty leaves and plentiful blooms.

Container growing

Choose a container that’s porous like terra cotta, clay, or stone. These materials help absorb and evaporate water so it doesn’t pool in the pot. Avoid plastics or pots that are nonporous.

Be sure it doesn’t have some special coating, such as glaze. This defeats the purpose. The container should be at least 5 inches wide with multiple holes to drain.

Growing outside

Shamrock can be grown outside similarly to how you’d grow it indoors, but time and time again, it produces more flowers and nicer foliage when grown out of direct sunlight in a cooler environment.

If you’re looking to grow it in your garden, you can do so if you’re in zones 8-11. In cooler climates, you can grow it inside and then bring it out in the summer for more sunlight.

Plant it in part sun and well-draining soil. You can even put shamrock outside for a few hours during the summertime for more sun.

The tiny bulbs can be planted in the fall or spring depending on your zone. It’s usually an indoor plant, but you can plant it outside if you’re in the right zone. Not too hot. Not too cold. It’s goldilocks.

Pests

Oxalis doesn’t have any pest issues for the most part. There are a handful of bugs that are commonly found munching on those precious shamrock leaves.

They’re usually thrips, whiteflies, vine weevils, blackflies, root bugs, mealybugs, spider mites, and worms. The majority of these bugs can be controlled by insecticidal sprays.

Keeping your plant inside your house will keep the bugs out. If you see aphids on it, remove them by spraying down your plant.

Diseases

Shamrock is pretty hardy to most pathogens, but there are a few that you need to watch out for. First is ring spot. The yellow rings on the leaves is the common sign of it. It can be controlled by removed the plant from its container and removing the affected leaves/shoots with sterilized pruners.

Fungal rust is another issue. This looks like orange or brown spots on the leaves. Remove the plant an then wash it completely, then replace it. Fungicidal soap may work well.

The last issue is root rot. This is what happens when you water too much without having enough drainage. Water less and ensure that the soil isn’t compacted.

Other common questions about shamrock care

This section contains questions from readers that are commonly asked about Shamrock.

You may find it useful. After all, this is a care sheet!

Please ask your questions using the form at the end of the page. We’ll be happy to get back to you.

How often should I water a shamrock plant?

Water when the top inch of soil is nearly dry. Use your finger to check. If you’re unsure, use a moisture meter instead. This can accurately gauge the water content in the soil so you never overwater.

Do shamrock plants need direct sunlight?

It depends on where you live and the ambient temperatures. If you’re in zones 8-11, you should be OK to put it near a south-facing window.

The sun should be filtered regardless. This will limit sun exposure and prevent scorching or burning of the tips.

Do shamrock plants like to be misted?

Yes, they do. You can mist it to keep the ambient humidity up if the air is dry in your house. A light misting will keep it moist, but don’t mist in place of watering.

Where should I place my shamrock plant?

Plae it 2-3 feet from a bright window. It shouldn’t be in direct sunlight. Use filtered light only.

What happens when a shamrock plant goes dormant?

It’ll turn yellow or brown with leaf drops. It’ll also stop producing blooms. Dormancy can be heat or stress-induced.

Both of which will require a rest period before they’ll resume growing those precious leaves again. So give it time and learn from environmental stressors.

Do shamrock plants like to be root bound?

Rootbound shamrock tends to produce more foliage and blooms compared to shamrock which has plenty of space for the roots.

This is because a smaller pot forces it to stop growing roots and refocus that energy on the flowers and foliage instead.

Can you overwater a shamrock plant?

Just like any other houseplant, overwatering is a primary killer of shammies. Never overwater your shamrock.

Only water it so it’s moist but never wet. The soil should be well draining so none of the water gets stuck in the pot. Let it go dry between waterings. If you overwater, it’ll introduce fungus or mold.

Root rot is also common with wet and poorly draining substrates.

How do you keep a shamrock plant from getting leggy?

If your shamrock gets thin or leggy, cut it back! Consider moving it to somewhere that gets more light. Leggy stems come from plants that are not reaching for light.

Why are the tips of my shamrock plant turning brown?

The tips turn brown because it’s either not getting enough nutrients or there’s too much light.

Move it to somewhere that doesn’t get as much light. Supplement with a plant fertilizer. Remove the browned tips using sterilized pruners

Are coffee grounds good for shamrock plants?

Shamrock can benefit from acidic soil which can be facilitated through the use of coffee because it’s naturally acidic.

You can lower the pH of your soil using sprinkled coffee right into the soil surface line, but don’t overdo it.

Remember that the potted container is a “closed” ecosystem, so if you put too much coffee in there, it can build up over time. Use only if your soil is too basic or neutral.

How do you make a shamrock bushy?

Keep the roots snug in the pot and trim it when it gets too tall. This will force it to grow sideways instead which may help encourage it to get bushier. Plant food will also aid denser foliage.

When should I repot my shamrock plant?

You should repot your shamrock when the roots are too snug and either coming out on the bottom of the pot.

If there’s not enough space, your plant will start to produce fewer blooms. Repot to a larger pot 2” bigger in diameter than the previous one.

Keep the same height between the old and new pots.

Further reading/references

Check out these sources for more detailed info about shamrock plants:

• Shamrocks, Oxalis spp. – Wisconsin Horticulture
• Shamrocks as Houseplants – Penn State Extension

• Oxalis oregana – Plants Wiki – Fandom

Grow shamrock at home

Shamrock is a one-of-a-kind plant that’s overshadowed by the holiday. Grow it anytime in your household and share it with friends when the holiday does come out.

Enjoy those purple or pink flowers the rest of the time.

Given that it’s a summer dormant houseplant, you can enjoy the flowers the rest of the season when your other houseplants sleep.

Shamrock will be perked up and shining.

The post How to Grow Shamrock (Beginner’s Care Sheet) appeared first on Gardenisms.

A lot of people don’t know how easy it is to propagate spider plants, but once they find out, they suddenly double their existing houseplant collection.

Try telling your friend how easy it is once you’ve done it yourself!

No expert skills are required. Propagating spider babies is super basic. Read on to find out how to do it.

Propagation methods

There are multiple ways to propagate spiderettes. You can either water root the plants, or you can plant directly into the soil.

Similar to pinstripes or butterwort, spider plants are beginner friendly.

Both have their own pros and cons, so let’s discuss which technique is for you.

For these methods to work, you need established spider plants to take the cuttings from.

You can get them from the local garden center, a friend, or a neighbor!

Planting into potting mix

You can root your spider babies right into potting soil if you want to keep it simple.

First, you’ll need to look for the spiderettes on the adult plant. They look like tiny knobs with roots on them, which are usually on the bottom of each plant.

Use plantlets that have some roots coming out of the stem. This shows that the plant is ready to be propagated. Use established plants with obvious aerial roots. It helps keep them in place.

Get a spray bottle and fill it with distilled, spring, or bottled water. Rain or filtered water both work too. Do NOT use dirty water or polluted water.

Get a small pot and fill it with a quality potting mix. You can use organic potting mix with coco-coir, peat moss, moss, or shredded leaves. It should have multiple drain holes on the bottom.

The pot should be 2 inches or bigger for one plant. Multiple spider plants will need larger pots so they get adequate space to root.

If you see the roots coming out of the drain hole or touching the edges or bunching up on the edges of the container, you need to get a bigger pot. Small plastic nursery pots are excellent.

They’re cheap and you can pick up a dozen for under $10 at most places.

For the potting soil, use houseplant soil. Do not use garden soil. Get something that’s high in organic materials so it can supplement the spiderettes root development.

Choose the largest spiderettes with the knobby protrusions, then snip them off with sterilized scissors or pruners.

You can sterilize it with rubbing alcohol. Fill up the pots about ¾ with a potting mix.

Don’t top them off all the way. They need some growing space between the top of the pot rim and the soil line.

Plant the spiderettes into the soil. Make sure you don’t cover the crown.

You’ll also need a small stick to help anchor the plant because it’ll fall over if you don’t have plant support.

Stick it into the soil somewhere in the middle and then make sure it’s secure.

Gently wrap the spiderette around the stick. You can wrap a single stem or tie it. Plant twine or those free twist ties from the grocery store work perfectly.

Keep the offset somewhere warm and bright with indirect sunlight.

Leave the baby spider plant attached to the original plant until you see new roots forming. When they root, you’ll see the new roots.

Cut the runner with a sterilized pruner and then separate the baby spider plant from the parent.

Baby plants will still root regardless of how you do it. The timing, setup, and environmental conditions are extremely forgiving of mistakes.

Water it regularly with a spray bottle. Keep the soil moist, but never waterlogged.

Never pour water directly into the baby spider plants pot. This will lead to root rot or fungus if it pools due to water pooling.

Keep it moist by spritzing it with a water bottle daily. If you’re watering too often, keep it moist by using a humidity dome.

If you’re feeling fancy, you can use a greenhouse, terrarium, or plant cover instead.

It’s easiest to use a hanging spider plant and then simply cut the babies from the host plant by cutting the runner.

Rooting in water

Planting in the soil is the easiest way to propagate, but you can alternatively root it in water.

This is much more exciting IMO. Rooting spiderettes in water is also a bit slower than soil planting but doesn’t need soil so you can save yourself the mess of dealing with dirt.

This method is cool if you use a glass container since you can see the plant itself. But you can use any container that holds water to do this.

Smaller glass jars are ideal because they’re easy to clean, manageable, and have that lip to hold the plant in place so it doesn’t topple.

Some people get creative and use everything from bottles to test tubes to yogurt cups.

The steps start out the same: Stick the baby plant in a mason jar or glass of water. Don’t use dirty water.

Use filtered, distilled, or rainwater. Springwater or bottled water is okay too. Place it in filtered sunlight and leave it there for 7-14 days.

Then you should see the roots slowly emerge over the course of two weeks. The plant can then be removed from the water and planted in a pot of soil after the runners have been snipped.

Plant it the same way as soil rooting.

The glass containers should be positioned with the babies above the rim.

Do NOT let the foliage go into the water. This will make them rot and useless since they can’t photosynthesize. You can use a rubber band or twine to hold them in place.

Make sure the container has enough water during rooting.

Use a marker to mark the edge of the tank or some other way if you don’t want to write on it just to keep the water level constant.

Make sure the containers are replenished regularly so the roots can feed. Change the water if it gets dirty.

Other tips:

• Choosing spiderettes to use for propagation is important. Choose only spider plants with smaller offsets.
• Visible aerial roots that have buds are critical to successful rooting. Leave the stem on the parent spider plant. Don’t cut it off. If you leave it, it can continue to produce babies for you to propagate. You gotta keep the golden goose.
• If you choose to root it in water, be sure to monitor the water quality.
• Refill it when it gets too low and keep it from going cloudy or moldy. If you notice fungus, there may be too much sunlight. Algae is also possible.
• If the roots get rotten, you need to replace the entire plant. Change the water if necessary, but use distilled water only. Keep the container warm at temperatures around 70-80F.
• The offsets will start to produce roots over time. You can check if it is rooted by giving it a small pull (gently).
• It should hold firmly in place without giving in. This lets you know it’s been rooted. But if it comes out, place it back. Give it some more time. You can reduce rooting time by increasing light, heat, and watering more often.
• The offsets will continue to grow in water. When you see at least 2 inches of root growth, it’s time to repot them. If you do it too early, they may suffer in the changing environment.
• The longer you wait, the more established they become so they tend to their new pots more kindly.
• You don’t have to move them into pots.
• You can keep them growing in water if you wish. Just be sure to upgrade to larger pots if you want to keep them going.
• Switch to using a watering can instead of a spray bottle.

By layering

Layering means cutting the baby plant after its roots. The other two methods (water and soil) require you to cut the offshoot first.

Layering means cutting the runners from the parent plant after its roots. That’s the major difference between the techniques.

This propagation method is nice because it allows you to get the babies prepped before you snip them off.

If you want to propagate your spider plant early on, you can do it using the power of layering spiderettes!

This method allows you to keep your spider babies with their runners intact while propagating it. The roots don’t need to be very developed to make this work.

This is how the plant does it natively. In nature, spider plants will produce offsets on their stems. There is no easier way to do it if you don’t wanna mess with it as much as possible.

To divide by layering, be sure to keep the potted host plant next to the baby plant.

You’ll get a new 2-3 inch pot, then put the baby plant inside it while keeping the adult plant on its own.

See how easy it is? No need to dig up or transplant your spiders.

Similar to the other propagation methods, you’ll need a plant with developed runners and baby spiderettes coming out.

Get a smaller planter. Fill it up with a potting mix that’s well-draining with plenty of organic matter for rooting it.

Fill it ¾ full with soil with a small gap between the rim of the pot and the soil surface.

Put the baby spider plant into its pot by dragging the stem across the two containers. The spiderette should be centered in the new pot.

If there isn’t enough “stem” to go across, put the pots closer together or use a smaller pot for the spiderette.

If the offset already has roots, dig out a small hole for the roots to live in, then firmly pack around them.

Use small pebbles to anchor the baby plant in place. A lot of other blogs may suggest using stones that are big enough to weigh it in place but don’t do this.

It just compacts the soil and makes it harder to root in my experience. Smaller pebbles combined with the soil weight are enough.

The pebbles can go in a full circle right around the spiderette. Be sure not to place them directly onto the roots.

Moisten the soil with a spray bottle. Use distilled or filtered water. Do this daily to keep it moist. Use a humidity dome if you want to water less.

When it roots, you can prune the runner using sterilized scissors or pruners. Then you’ll have a fully rooted baby spider plant in its own pot!

Test rooting by gently tugging on it. If it comes out, put it back followed by more time. If it doesn’t, it’s rooted.

Growing spider plant babies

If you want to plant multiple baby plants, you can do it. Plant them next to each other in a larger pot.

You can also place them next to the original one to flesh it out if you have voids or empty spaces.

Baby spider plants need more water so water it often to keep it moist, but never wet.

Use well-draining soil for potted plants, NOT garden soil.

When the new roots emerge, it indicates that the spider plant baby has successfully rooted to its new environment.

You can now move it to a normal care routine as with your adult plant or transplant it to another pot.

Tips, hints, and how to

Check out this section for some more tips on propagating spiderettes.

If you’ve still got Q’s, feel free to ask me direclty.

Can you propagate spider plants without babies?

You’ll need at least a small knob growing from the original host plant in order to propagate it.

If you don’t want to wait, use the layering method for quick results.

Otherwise, perhaps planting in water is easier.

You can start getting the baby to root without actually separating it into its own pot.

Where do you cut spiderettes?

Cut the spiderette runner from both at the base of the plant. Use sharp scissors that have been sterilized when pruning.

For regular pruning, remove all discolored or damaged foliage as needed.

Spiderettes should be cut back to the base from the parent plant and the baby plant.

How long does it take for spider plant babies to grow roots?

Spider plants will produce babies within 1-2 weeks.

When put into soil or water, you may see new roots form in as little as 2-3 days. Sometimes it can take up to 4 weeks to see results.

Warmer temperatures with more light speed up the root development.

How long does it take for spiderettes to root in water?

This largely depends on ambient conditions like temperature, humidity, sunlight, and more. Generally, you can expect the spiderette to root in water within 1-2 weeks.

Where do you cut a spiderette to propagate?

Spiderettes should be cut at the base of the plant where the runner connects to the baby spider plant and the parent plant. Cut at the base of both plants using sterilized pruners.

Should I water spiderettes before they root?

Yes, spiderettes should be watered during the rooting process for soil and layering propagation methods.

Obviously, you don’t need to water if you’re rooting in water, but you do need to change the water partially if it gets murky or algae forms.

The soil and layered baby plants need to be sprayed with moist water daily until they’ve rooted. Then you can switch to regular watering can routines as you do with your parent plants.

Is it OK to cut off spider plant babies?

Yes, it’s completely OK to cut them off if you’re propagating by soil or in water.

It’s actually necessary to cut them before you put them in water or in their own pot.

If you’re propagating by layering, you’ll cut the babies after they root.

If you’re growing in soil or water, you’ll cut them before they root.

Or if you don’t want any more babies because you have enough, you can snip off the knobs.

But why would you do that? Give them to your friends or neighbors~!

Can you leave spiderettes on the plant?

Yes, if you leave the spiderettes on the host plant, they’ll turn into baby spider plants with runners attached to the parent. Cut off the runners after the babies root to divide it. This is how they propagate in the wild. But be prepared for more baby spider plants!

When can I take cuttings from a spider plant?

You can take cuttings from a parent plant when it’s established and fully developed.

This is usually done in the spring or summer when it’s actively growing. Doing it in the winter when it halts growth may harm the plant.

Remove the babies when they have their own roots underneath.

When its roots are at least 0.5 inches, it’s ready to be propagated

Do spider plants like their roots to be crowded?

Spider plants don’t like their roots being crowded, but can tolerate it for a while before you need to move them to a larger tank.

When they come out of the holes on the bottom of the pot or they bunch into the corner, you need to change the pot to a bigger one.

Use hanging containers for spider plants because they allow for more space.

Plants grow and produce plantlets when they’re slightly pot-bound, so some crowding is good.

But they easily crowd, so watch out for that.

Further reading/references

• Spider plant, Chlorophytum comosum – WISC
• Spider Plant Care : r/houseplants – Reddit

Propagating spider babies is simple

Spider plants are ideal for beginners because they’re so easy to care for. Propagating them is even easier.

For a lot of people, diving your plants is a PITA. You gotta mess with soil, uproot the plant, and do all sorts of work while hoping not to mess it up.

For spider plants, the 3 different propagation methods (layering, soil, or water) make it easy to choose what works for you.

Got questions? Ask away by posting your comment.

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This popular winter decorative plant isn’t just only found at the nursery or your local department store.

Then you don’t have to pay those high retail prices for mistletoe (they hurt, especially in this economy).

You can actually grow it from seeds, cuttings, or plant division so you can give them to friends, and family, or have a bountiful supply of mistletoe for the winter season (and beyond).

Let’s dive in and learn how to grow and care for mistletoe.

Quick care guide: Mistletoe

What’s mistletoe?

Kissing under the mistletoe is just the beginning. The plant is actually an evergreen with signature white berries.

The berries are semi-transparent so it relay looks good in the right lighting conditions.

When you peek out your car window in the wintertime, you can see those 3-foot cacti up in those branches.

Each one is a mistletoe plant and a single host can have several of them. They look like giant balls on the canopy.

Scientifically known as Phoradendron, its a genus of parasitic plants that originate from North America.

Mistletoe specifically isn’t from the US but rather introduced in Europe. They’re part of the Viscum genus, specifically V. Album.

This is the mistletoe you commonly find during the winter used in decor.

There are multiple species of it. We’ll be discussing how to grow American mistletoe in this guide because it’s suited for our environment here.

You shouldn’t try to grow European mistletoe because it can be invasive if it gets out of your yard.

The thing a lot of people don’t know about it is that mistletoe can grow on other plants. You can grow it on both indoor and outdoor plants.

They just need to be established so they can be the right host plants for mistletoes.

These plants are semi-parasitic because they grow their own roots, leaves, etc.

They’re not true parasites because they still have their own independent systems.

They latch on oak, which is commonly found in CA, OR, NJ, TX, WA, NM, and everywhere in between.

There are even eastern and western counterparts, but they have similar care. Pacific mistletoe grows in the southwest while P. uniperinum is found in the desert on juniper plants.

The common classification is broadleaf or leafy. When you think of the mistletoe you kiss under, it’s leafy. You can even find dwarf variants too.

So in a way, mistletoe is sort of a parasite. It feeds off the nutrients from other trees or shrubs.

While this may dampen your outlook on this plant, it’s really harmless to their host plants as long as the host is established.

Since mistletoe is relatively small compared to the plants they grow on, they don’t need many nutrients to thrive.

While the relationship isn’t symbiotic, it’s worth it so you have your own kissing plant. Plus, you’re basically raising two independent plants for the price of one!

Types of mistletoe

We’ve already discussed the two main types you come across: European and American mistletoe.

There are over 1300 species, so you have choices. But realistically, you’ll only be seeing a small dozen or so that are actually obtainable

Choose from Phradendron or Viscum species, but don’t plant Arceuthobium. Find what’s native in your zone and grow those. It’ll improve the chances of germination.

Because there are so many types of mistletoe, here’s a quick rundown of choosing one:

• P. Juniperinum (western US)
  P. Leucapum (east, southern US)
  P. Villosum (coastal US)

What does mistletoe grow on?

Mistletoe has a few favorite host plants that include:

• Poplar
• Lime
• Crab apple
• Walnut
• Contester
• Ash
• Walnut
• Maple
• Hawthorn
• Apple
• Conifers

Orchard apples are one of the most popular plants for mistletoe to latch onto and grow.

Seed the mistletoe then it’ll slowly sap the nutrients its needs. Since orchards are hardy, it shouldn’t affect them.

They send out their own roots called haustoria to draw nutrients. They’re capable of photosynthesis using their large carves.

But in reality, mistletoe can latch onto any tree or shrub. Not only the ones on this list.

While the parasite part can sound scary, they’re usually harmless to the host if it’s taken care of. They’re also beneficial to wildlife.

Birds, squirrels, and other pollinators will eat the berries. It’s also a source of food for animals in the winter season when food is scarce. It’s even the ONLY source of food for some species like butterflies.

If you have these plants, whether in your garden or inside your house, it should be easy and simple to do. Just put in a bit of TLC with the right setup and you’re good.

Please check the compatible host plants before you decide to start planting. This list isn’t complete, so even if you don’t have anything on this list, you can still use other substitute plants.

If you’re unsure, post a comment.

Plants that can’t supply enough water or nutrients to themselves or to the mistletoe will be a disaster for both plants. This is why it’s important to choose the right plant for your mistletoe to grow upon.

The mistletoe will grow seeds inside their berries. The host plant needs to be compatible to work.

The seeds will germinate on the surface of the host plant and then produce the signature plant to kiss under.

Mistletoe will produce oval-shaped leaves that are olive in color. They can grow up to 24 inches in height and 18 inches wide.

They’re considered evergreens with succulent stems.

Is it poisonous?

Yes, mistletoe is poisonous.

You should never ingest it and always wear protective gear when handling it. Wash your hands after touching them and never kiss the plant.

The Viscum genus contains the most toxins out of the 1300 or so identified species of mistletoe.

The European counterpart is the most dangerous mistletoe, which can be upwards of 10 times more toxic than the American one. It’s toxic for humans, dogs, cats, horses, or other pets.

Do NOT ingest! It can cause some serious adverse effects. If you’re going to do the whole kissing under the mistletoe thing, make sure you use the right species. Then wash your hands!

Propagation

Mistletoe should be planted when still fresh. If allowed to dry, you may not get a successful “infestation” of the host plant.

Gently remove the seeds from the berry so you don’t damage them. Put on some gloves then squeeze the berry to extract the seed.

Clean it with a paper napkin because it’ll be coated with a sticky glaze. Wash it under cool water. That’s it. It’s ready to plant!

Don’t use a sprig of mistletoe you bought from the store. This likely won’t work. You need a real wild plant to collect the berries. You can find this at specialty holiday Christmas tree lots, nurseries, or hardware stores during the season.

In the wild, mistletoe will do this automatically on its own. It latches onto other plants, but cleaning the seed isn’t necessary for it to germinate. We just clean it because it reduces the risk of plant infections.

Germination

Mistletoe will need a source of light for successful germination. We’ll germinate it first, then we’ll move it to a host plant after it sprouts.

Get a seed starter kit or flat then fill it with some potting mix. Mistletoe prefers a light mix that drains well with some peat mixed in.

Fill it to the brim then sow 2-3 seeds per compartment. Get a spray bottle and mist it with distilled water. Do NOT water it.

This is too much water and will lead to fungus or other problems. The soil should be moist, but not wet.

Use some cling wrap to keep the humidity locked in. Place the flat somewhere where it’ll get ambient light or dappled sunlight.

The temperature should be at least 60F or higher. Continue to watch it and mist it to keep it damp.

Seeds will take time to sprout. Mistletoe germination will test your patience and take up to many years to do so.

It depends on the light, temperature, and humidity available.
You should plant multiple seeds because this will get you both male/female plants.

Soak the seeds for at least 24 hours before you plant them. Freshly harvested seeds should be cleaned and then soaked.

Only harvest berries in the spring. Berries must be free of pathogens because you don’t want to waste a bunch of time waiting only for it to be infected.

Moving to the host plant

When the seeds have finally sprouted, they’ll need to be moved to a proper host plant to grow on.

Now that germination is complete, the next step is successfully rooting it.

There are multiple ways to do it and the choice is yours. See which one works for you.

Cutting into the host plant to germinate

Once you’ve gathered the berries from wild sprigs, find a healthy host plant to plant them!

This is a traditional method of germination. You cut a small hole in the host plant’s bark so you can put the seeds within the small crevice.

You don’t need to make a huge hole, just a small crack so that the seeds can be pushed slightly inside and then sit there on tier own.

Find a flat area on the tree bark then make a cut. Place the seeds inside then wait. That’s it.

Find a nice and thick piece of bark. It should be at least 2-3 inches wide. Use a sterilized knife to make a cut.

The host should be growing in full sun, but the cut side should be in the shade. The reason is that it needs full sun during the winter when the leaves from the host are shed, but it needs to be in the shade during the reason of the season.

Of course, this may not always be possible.

The branch should be thick and higher up so rodents won’t mess with it. You may need to use a ladder to reach the tops of the oaks. Be careful and follow precautions.

The berry shouldn’t fall out. The bark shouldn’t need to be pressed to firm. It should be left exposed to the environment so the seeds can germinate.

The berries will be sticky, so you may want to use a small toothpick to make it easier.

Proper seed germination at this point can take up to 5 years to complete. It’s not for the impatient.

This is why many people prefer to just buy mistletoe instead of growing it on their own.

You’ll know when the seedlings are ready because they’ll have small leaves coming out.

The roots should be inserted into the bark that you cut then surrounded with a medium like peat moss to hold them in place.

Mist it every now and then until the seedlings latch onto the host plant.

If rodents or birds make it to the branch site, they may eat the berries. Use netting to keep them out. Be sure to plan multiple seeds.

You can mix both male/female seeds together.

Growing from cuttings

You can grow from cuttings if you use the roots. While it doesn’t always work, just like germinating seeds, it’s possible to transfer the cuttings.

Of course, you’ll need to have a few of them in the first place. If they’ve rooted onto the peat or the host plant, you may not be able to transfer them.

Use seeds for improved germ rates.

How to grow mistletoe

As you probably know by now, mistletoe requires very little care other than getting it to properly germinate and then root.

Once you’ve done that, it takes care of itself because it uses the nutrients from the host plant.

Mistletoe isn’t prone to insects and they’re dioecious.

You pretty much just let it sit there until it’s ready to e picked. Remember how we talked about planting multiple seeds in the same host plant?

This is imperative because each seed either results in a male or female plant- but not both. So you’ll need both in order to maximize your chance of getting mistletoes with berries.

Only female plants will produce berries. If your mistletoe only has leaves, then it’s a male.

Planting multiple seeds will increase your chances of getting both plants so you’ll be able to harvest the berries or use them as decor.

Other than that, be sure to check in on the host plant because the mistletoe saps the energy from it.

Use fertilizer, water well, and give it appropriate TLC so it can keep providing for the mistletoe and itself. If you’re planting more than one in the same host, double your care routine for it so it doesn’t get wrecked.

It gets water, nutrients, and everything else it needs from the host. Never water it directly, fertilize it, or mess with it. Just leave it on its own and care for the host.

That’s it. Here are some other tidbits of info that you may find useful.

Hardiness zone

The American version of mistletoe (leafy green) will thrive in USDA hardiness zones 5-9.

So if you’re in this range and you have a compatible host to put the mistletoe inside, then you’re good to go. Regions that are too hot or too cold will not be suitable for growing mistletoe.

In the US, mistletoe grows natively in the wild from New Jersey to Florida on the east through Texas. It can also be found in Alaska, Canada, Mexico, and even Honduras.

Soil

Plant in the bark with some organic peat moss. This will serve multiple purposes: it’ll hold the seeds in place so they don’t fall out.

It’ll also hide them from rodents or birds. The moss serves basically as a foundation for the mistletoe to root itself.

Some kind of medium for it to grow is necessary. Don’t just toss the seed into the bark!

Soil pH

If you’re starting from seed, use an organic, rich, well-draining substrate that’s pH neutral or slightly acidic. You can test your soil using a pH test kit. The range should be between 6-7 for ideal propagation.

Soil depth

Sow each seed .25″ deep. They should be sown near the surface of the soil so they can get adequate light and warmth. If you’re transferring cuttings, plant them into moss each about 2″ deep.

Soil spacing

Space each seed a few inches apart so they don’t compete for nutrients. Ideally, you’ll want to sow each seed to their own neat little compartment in your soil starter. If planting directly into the host, only plant one mistletoe per cutting.

Temperature

The ideal temperature for mistletoe is between 70-75F. Mistletoe may not grow if it’s too cold or warm.

If you’re planting in the right zone, there should be no issue with temperatures.

Humidity

Humidity should be relatively moist. If it’s dry, supplement with some sprays of water every week during the dry period. You don’t need to worry about this because it’s quite hardy.

Watering

You shouldn’t need to water your seeds.

They’ll get water from the host plant. But if you expect drought, you can give them a few spritzes of water every week. Taking care of the host plant takes care of the seeds.

Note that mistletoe does drain precious water from the host, so keep it well-watered.

Plant food

Mistletoe will get all the food it needs from its host plant.

There’s no need to supplement fertilizer or plant food unless the host plant is lacking them.

When you monitor your mistletoe, you can often see it thriving simultaneously with the host plant. If they’re both happy, then continue feeding the host and the nutrients will go to the mistletoe indirectly.

If you notice that the host plant is weakened, then supplement fertilizer as needed.

Sunlight

During the winter, the mistletoe should be exposed to full sun in the winter when the oak is bare and has dropped its leaves. But for the rest of the year, it should be growing in a shaded canopy from the leaves.

So you want to pick a side of the branch that has the right exposure levels.

Caring for mistletoe

This section covers some basic mistletoe care tips. If you have questions of your own, post them in the comments.

Pruning

You’ll need to prune your mistletoe a few times per year. Once it germinates, it can sap too many nutrients from the host plant which can make it weak.

If you notice that the host becomes weak, has yellowing or browning leaves, or produces poor fruit, the parasite that is mistletoe needs to be pruned.

Trim it back 2-3 times per year to limit its size of it.

Remove the berries completely during the harvest season. Keeping it tidy will help keep it manageable and your host plant virulent. Keep it happy and you’ll be happy!

So will your mistletoe too. Pruning can be done by using a sky saw.

Cut it away to get the size/shape you desire. Don’t worry about pruning it. You’re helping your host plant by doing so.

Cut it back in the spring after you’ve harvested the berries. The rest of the berries that are surplus can be pruned off so they’re no longer viable for germination.

If you want to remove the entire mistletoe, be sure to kill the haustoria left behind (the roots attached to the host). Once you take the mistletoe off, you can set it up as decor.

Seed saving

Collect the berry seeds you want to replant for the next season at the time of harvest. Extract, clean, then store.

The seeds can be stored until the next planting season.

Seeds need to be dried before storage. If wet, they can mold or wither. Do not ingest the seeds.

Harvesting

The ideal time to harvest is between March and April. While this is far from

December when mistletoe is most used, you can store it until then. So don’t worry.
The early spring guarantees that the berries are ready to be plucked.

Mistletoe will be ready after 3-4 years and will likely need pruning by then. It’s a very hardy plant so don’t be scared to give it a good trim.

You can harvest it by saving the berries and then collecting the seeds for sowing again or you can prune the entire plant for decor.

Mistletoe is very easy to grow once you get a small culture started. In some states, like CA, it’s considered to even be invasive so you need to be careful with it.

It doesn’t need care other than the host plant because that’s where it gets everything it needs.

Female berries are white. The signature red berries belong to the V. Cruciatum species.

The male plants will still be an important source of pollen for bees, ants, butterflies, birds, and more.

Use a sharp, sterilized pair of scissors to cut the sprigs you need for holiday decor or presentations. If you need to store mistletoe, they go well in the fridge for a few weeks when wrapped in a sandwich bag.

Be sure not to contaminate your foods because you don’t wanna ingest it.

Growing in pots

Mistletoe doesn’t grow well in pots because the host plant doesn’t grow well in pots.

Unless you’re planting a large shrub inside your house. You should plant only outside so it gets the sunlight it needs to gain energy.

For this reason, you shouldn’t plan indoors if possible to maximize successful rooting/germination.

Growing indoors

As discussed above, you should plant mistletoe where it belongs- outside on a host plant!

While it’s possible to grow it indoors, it’s not easy. Since it already has such a long germination time, why take risks?

Winterizing

Mistletoe doesn’t need any specific winterizing. If it grows with the host plant in the right zone, it can tolerate the cold.

By nature, it can handle temperatures as high 90F as low as 20F. But it prefers temperatures in the 60F range.

So you don’t need to worry about protecting it from the cold. The range is wide and depends on the available shade, type of mistletoe, local environment, humidity, and water production.

Companion plants

Mistletoe will only tolerate being paired with its host plant. Don’t plant anything nearby in the same cutting that it’s sitting in.

This is a sole, lone plant. It’ll likely choke other plants if you try to plant them together.

Don’t plant with

Don’t plant with any other plants other than the list of host plants.

Pests

The issue with pests is that they infest the host plant rather than the mistletoe.

This is because the host plant will start to show signs of weakness, which means it’ll become more susceptible to pest infestation.

The only way to keep bugs out is to keep your host plant in good shape.

Diseases

Similar to dealing with pests, the plant is only vulnerable the bugs that eat your host plant. Take care of the primary plant that supplying your mistletoe is what you need to care for.

Mistletoe is a low maintenance plant that requires little to no care. This is why it’s so appealing to grow your own. Then you never need to buy it again.

Oh, you buy it? I grow it! Now that’s a coffee table convo.

Uses

Mistletoe can be used for decor or just to have on your treetops like a bunch of winter snowballs. Or you can pick them off and give them to friends. When you’re ready to harvest, use some scissors or pruners to clip off the sprigs you need.

You can also create displays using wire, ribbons, or baskets.

Commonly asked questions about mistletoe

This section covers some basic tips and tricks for mistletoe TLC. These plants basically care for themselves should be pretty much self-explanatory.

Can I grow my own mistletoe?

Yes, you can grow your own, but you’ll need a berry or a few seeds that are viable for planting.

It’ll take quite some time before it roots and you have any harvestable decor. So if you need it by next season, you should just buy mistletoe instead.

Can you grow mistletoe in any tree?

There are some host plants that mistletoe prefers and will grow much more efficiently compared to others.

Check out the list of preferred plants for mistletoe above. It needs to be some kind of oak that grows in the same native zone as mistletoe or else it’ll wither while the mistletoe thrives.

Then the mistletoe will wither too once the host can no longer support nutrients for it.

Note that mistletoe can’t grow anywhere- you need to plant in it the right hardiness zone and use the right host plant.

How long will mistletoe last?

It can be stored in an airtight bag in the fridge for several days. It is meant to be cut and then displayed immediately after so you have the greenest leaves possible.

The berries can be collected to replant at the end of the season so you can regrow mistletoe from seed as needed.

Can you grow mistletoe anytime?

If you’re in the right hardiness zone, you can grow it throughout the year and then harvest it during the winter for decor.

If you need to use it before winter, it can be pruned back and then used.

The berries can only be harvested in the spring, but the mistletoe foliage and spurs?

You can grab them anytime you need them. Just leave the roots in the host and you’re good.

Further reading/references

• Mistletoe science and folklore – MSU Extension
• Mistletoe – UF/IFAS Extension – University of Florida

Grow your own mistletoe

Growing mistletoe is pretty easy if you’re patient.

For most people who just use it once per year as holiday decor, it’s more efficient to just buy cuttings from the nursery.

For those that want to grow those big spheres of mistletoe on their canopies, it may be a fun little project.

If you have any questions, post them in the comments!

The post How to Grow Mistletoe (Beginner’s Care Sheet) appeared first on Gardenisms.

These biennials (more like perennials) are super easy to grow.

They have short stems with tons of flowers that can be everything from pink to black. They even can produce both double or single blooms.

They’re capable of growing up to 10 feet tall. So if you want to pack out your cottage garden with color, this is it.

Let’s learn about how to grow and care for hollyhocks!

Quick care guide: Hollyhock

What are hollyhocks?

Hollyhocks are a classic garden staple.

They’re a mid-summer blooming biennial with large, gorgeous flowers on tall stems. Some species behave like perennials and flowers in the first year, but most will flower in the second year.

They’re very popular in cottage gardens, especially along the perimeter. No cottage garden is complete without some hollyhocks on the outside edge.

They also bring in hummingbirds, butterflies, and other pollinators to your garden. Put denser plants in front of the hollyhock to hide their legs but let the pretty flowers shine.

They make an impressive background plant. It pairs well with shorter companion plants like roses or dahlias.

They’re also the favorite for painted lady ladybugs. Bees also like the easy-to-access pollen of the single hollyhocks, but the doubles give you that full look.

Why are they called hollyhocks?

Hollyhocks get their name from the horse hooves during wartimes.

It’s speculated that the Hollyhocks from horses were collected by soldiers during the Middle East crusades. But there’s no real evidence of the nomenclature.

They can tower above your garden and make an excellent background plant with their ability to grow up to 10 feet!

Are they perennials? Or annuals? Or biennials?

Hollyhocks are biennials, meaning that they produce flowers throughout 2 seasons.

But it depends on where you’re located. Cooler zones will only produce annuals, while other zones can produce flowers for multiple seasons, so some people grow them as perennials.

There’s no need to replant every season. These guys will do well if you give them some TLC.

Is hollyhock easy to grow?

Hollyhock is easy to grow and suitable for beginners. Other than regular pruning and deadheading, they don’t need other maintenance.

However, they are susceptible to pests or rust which can damage the plant if not cared for. For the most part, this plant is set and forget.

Expect gorgeous flowers 2 seasons from planting.

The main thing to note is that they don’t like being moved around once established because of their roots. It’s hard to uproot it and put it somewhere else so make sure to choose the right location the first time you plant it.

What do hollyhocks look like?

Hollyhocks have a special signature of single or double cup-shaped flowers that have very few stalks. They bloom on tall spikes above their sea of green foliage.

The flowers can be many colors, with the most popular ones being pink, purple, green, blue, black, yellow, white, red, or hybrids.

The spikes have blooms on the entire length of it. The foliage of the hollyhock is large with a palmate shape.

Are they poisonous?

Hollyhock isn’t known to have any adverse effects if ingested. But it can cause skin irritation due to the fibers on the leaves if touched.

Regardless, you should avoid ingesting it or handling it without protective equipment. Some people or pets may be sensitive to hollyhock. So you never know.

Types of hollyhock plants

There are over 60 confirmed species of hollyhock around the world. The most popular one that you see in cottage gardens is Alcea Rosea.

But others have different colors, patterns, heights, and tolerate various temperatures. The majority of hollyhocks are perennial or biennial, all that reach upwards of 8 feet tall.

If you’re looking for popular hollyhock species, this list should get you started:

• Bristol hollyhock (flowers earlier than other species, grows in zones 5-9, pink flowers)
• Russian hollyhock (less cold hardy, yellow blooms, rust resistant)
• Charter’s Double (common hollyhock, double flowering, variety of colors, blooms constantly through the season)
• Blacknight (semi-double to single flowers that are black, true perennial)
• Halo Bush
• Peaches and Dreams
• Creme De Cassis
• Majorette Mix
• Mallow
• Shasta

How to propagate hollyhock

Hollyhock can be propagated traditionally from seed, or it can be purchased from the local nursery and then put into the garden.

Sure, growing from seed is more rewarding. I’ll give you that. But it also takes much longer (double the time) to see those pretty flowers compared to buying them pregrown from the garden center.

It depends on what YOU want. Let’s go over both methods of propagation.

These plants will self-seed, so you don’t need to propagate them ever again if you grow your first batch. New plants will come out the following season on their own.

That’s how easy it is to propagate hollyhock. However, getting the first hollyhock up and running is the hard part.

This section covers some basic techniques for propagating hollyhock from seed.

You’ll find that germinating it is extremely easy as it has a high germ rate, unlike some other plants (like Virginia creeper).

If you want to start from seed, you can buy a pre-grown hollyhock. Just make sure it has a biodegradable container so it can be planted without uprooting. These plants do NOT like to be moved around once established.

From seed

Hollyhock seeds should be planted indoors using a seed starter kit. If you’re in the right zone, you can even sow it directly into the garden if you wish.

The nice part about this plant is that the seeds aren’t finicky. Just give them the right temperature, light, and water for them to thrive.

Sow seeds during the second half of spring if you’re sowing indoors

If sowing in the garden, do it in early summer.

Sowing indoors

Start sowing using a seed starter kit. Place each seed 0.25” deep into each seed space. Sow 1-2 seeds per compartment. Cover with a light dusting of high-quality potting mix. Water well.

Then cover with a humidity dome. The seed must be kept moist, but never wet. Place the seed kit near a dappled source of light.

Start indoors about 8-10 weeks before the last frost date. Seeds should be moved outside to the garden as early as possible after you harden them off.

This is because hollyhock seedlings have extensive root systems, so they need room to grow. Thin to the strongest plants. Seedlings can be placed outside 2 weeks after the last frost.

Note that you should harden them off by slowly acclimating them to the outside elements. Don’t just put them out there because they can suffer from plant shock.

Hollyhocks are easiest to grow from seed in the second season. They also will self seed if you leave them in their place. So it’s like setting it once and you’re good to go.

Just dedicate a space in your garden for them to flourish. Ideal temperatures for germination are 60-70F. If sowing seeds in the fall, overwinter in a greenhouse and they should flower next season.

You can start them inside a greenhouse if you wish. This will help keep the humidity maintained. Use a bit of potting mix and very lightly firm the seeds. You can even pre-germinate the seeds to get a head start.

Seeds should be kept at 70F. They’ll germinate within 14-28 days on average.

Sowing in the garden

Hollyhock can be sown directly into the soil if you‘re in zones 3-8. These plants fare well when directly sown because they have long roots.

By planting directly outside, they get the room they need to grow right away. Plus, there’s no need to harden them off.

No plant shock. No transferring. Easy, right?

Sow each seed ¼ inch deep into high-quality, well-draining garden soil. Space each seed 2-3 feet apart.

These plants need room to grow and this will minimize soil competition. Since they have those lengthy roots, they need space to grow. Water them so they stay moist. Use a soil meter if you don’t know when to water.

If you purchased one from the nursery, you’ll need to uproot it to move it into your garden. This will harm the plant because they don’t take well to being uprooted and moved to a new environment.

Because of this, you should buy one that is in a biodegradable pot so you can plant it with minimal disturbance.

Where to plant hollyhocks

Choose an area that’s well-draining with full to partial sunlight. Because they’re so tall, you should avoid planting in areas with high winds or drafts.

They should be protected by some object like a fence, wall, stake, or garden trellis. These plants also will self-seed, so you should avoid planting them near foliage that may be outcompeted.

Keep them at least 2 feet from other plants- including each other! It should also be somewhere that has good circulation. Stale air will lead to fungus. So you don’t want to suffocate it.

You may want to consider planting locations that have enough space to accommodate its height of it. Plants may also need support if they get top-heavy. Plant against a wall or a border where they can get support.

How to grow hollyhocks

Here are some general guidelines on growing and caring for hollyhock.

Care varies depending on the species you’re growing, but these should serve well as general info for getting the most flowers from your plant.

Hardiness zone

Hollyhock grows well in USDA hardiness zones 2-10. It’s a versatile plant that can grow in a variety of climates. It even tolerates drought when fully grown.

It can handle temperature swings if the roots are well protected. If you’re not in the zone range, you can still grow hollyhock if you provide some mulch to help insulate the roots in the cooler regions.

Soil

Hollyhocks prefer fertile, rich soil that’s full of nutrients. They also require well-draining soil as pooling soil will lead to fungal issues or drooping leaves.

The soil should be moisture retaining to help conserve water. When they’re established, they’re drought tolerant. Amend with compost or manure to help increase the nutrient in the soil column for the seedlings to flourish.

Pick sites sheltered from the wind to prevent flopping. The soil must be nice and moist. Beginners often make the mistake of planting it in soil that’s just too dry.

Soil pH

Maintain a soil pH between 6.0-8.0. This is acidic to alkaline. They can tolerate both acidic and basic soils, with the sweet spot being neutral. If your soil is too acidic or basic, you can amend it to fix the levels.

Hollyhocks like acidic soil as it helps encourage blooms. Lime also works well to reduce soil pH.

Depth

Plant each seed 0.25 inches deep then cover with light compost. No need to plant the seeds too deep. They do fine near the surface as this helps increase germination rates.

For nursery plants, use a biodegradable pot for transferring to your garden. Plant at the same depth as the original plant.

Spacing

Space each plant 18-24 inches from each other.

This will provide enough space so they don’t compete for nutrients. Since they have extensive root systems, you need to give them enough room to grow or else they may end up with smaller blooms overall.

Temperature

Hollyhock will grow well in temperatures that are warmer, but not scorching hot.

They can tolerate some temperature drops to the cold side, but the sudden cold can damage the flowers.

Ideal temperatures should be between 65-70 in the daytime. Excessive heat can lead to scorching, yellowing, or witling. When established, hollyhock can handle temperatures down to 5F!

Humidity

Hollyhock prefers moderate humidity levels. The soil should be kept moist for younger plants, but established ones can tolerate some dryness in the soil column.

Humidity levels of 50-60% should be the maximum, as it can lead to rust due to moisture content. Reduce humidity if it’s too high by reducing watering frequency. Cut back on dense foliage by pruning it off.

Sunlight

Plant hollyhocks in an area that has full or partial sun. The plant needs between 5 hours of light per day. Morning or evening sun is ideal, as afternoon sun can scorch the foliage.

They like sunlight with plenty of heat, but don’t overdo it. If your plant is leggy, it’s trying to reach for the sun!

Consider getting it into the sunlight. Most hollyhocks do well in partial shade but prefer full sun if it’s not scorching hot. These plants can grow weakly in shady conditions and will flop.

If you’re somewhere that’s hot, dry, or arid, and temperatures hit above 80 degrees Fahrenheit regularly, consider planting in the shade so it doesn’t dry out.

Watering

Water regularly on a schedule. The soil should remain moist at all times, but never dry. Don’t let it dry out between waterings if possible. They’re not drought tolerant until they’re established.

Seedlings should be watered 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on your local conditions. Water deeply at the base of the stem. Don’t water the foliage as this encourages fungal issues.

Use moisture-retaining soil to reduce watering. Seedlings will require consistently moist conditions.

Use your finger or a moisture meter to know when to water. The top 5 inches of soil should be moist. But if it’s soggy, that’s not good. That can lead to rust or fungus in the winter.

Once established, watering should be reduced except during hot or dry spells.

Plant supports

These plants can get up to 10 feet or taller. They’ll need some kind of plant support if it’s windy or else they’ll topple over. You can use rope, fences, stakes, or even just your wall.

Plant food

Hollyhocks will benefit from a light feeding of fertilizer in the spring.

If your soil is nutritious, plant food is not necessary for them to thrive.

But if your soil is lacking, you can supplement it with some soil amendments. Use as directed. Look for an NPK of 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. Basic general purpose plant food products like Miracle Grow will do the job. No need to get fancy.

Use them in the spring before they bloom so you can get more flowers. You can also use compost or manure to help provide nutrients in place of fertilizer.

Fertile conditions are ideal for hollyhock as they need high levels of nutrients in the soil. If your plant turns yellow or has smaller flowers, then the soil may be the culprit.

Amend with organic matter during the spring if your soil is poor. Add food every 2 weeks during the bloom period to help increase size.

Organic fertilizer or fish emulsion high in nitrogen (N) is excellent.

Flowering

Hollyhock flowers will vary in size and appearance.

The species, local climate, temperature, and how well fed it is determines the number of flowers and how big they are. Most are large (5-6 inches in size).

The blooms are outward-facing with a long stem. Blooms last from early summer to fall. You can encourage more blooms by regulating pruning spent ones.

Ensure that they get enough nutrients- and provide enough moisture content. They make good cut flowers in a vase and can be used decoratively. Hollyhock lasts 10 days when cut.

Mulching

Use a layer of organic mulch or compost to help increase the nutrient aviaablity in the soil.

You can use up to 5 inches of mulch in the winter to help winterize it. If you’re in zones 5-10, you should be OK for the winter.

No much will be needed unless there’s a temp dip. Hollyhock is hardy to 5F once established.

Pruning

Hollyhock flowers should be removed after they’re spent. This will help prevent pests or rust from infesting the entire stalk.

You can deadhead it by cutting the entire stalks back to the base of the plant. Don’t let it just sit there. The plant will drop its foliage and start wilting.

Isn’t the point supposed to be growing something pretty to look at?

Note that the plant will die back on its own in the winter. The stems, leaves, and petals will wilt. Cut it back to the soil line to winterize hollyhock. Don’t let it wilt. It’ll bring in rust or pests.

Cutting back after flowering will help encourage another bloom. Mulch with some well-composted manure so it has what it needs for round two. But second blooms aren’t guaranteed. It depends on your growing season.

However, if you want to save the seeds, keep some of the flowers on the stalk. Cut off everything else. We’ll cover how to save seeds later in this care sheet.

Maintenance

Hollyhock requires very little care once established. Just give it plenty of light, water, and plant food. Prune it once a week. Fertilize in the spring to summer. Ensure that it has adequate support.

That’s about all you need to do in terms of care. This plant is excellent for beginners and is very easy to care for flowering perennials. This is why it’s so popular in the cottage gardens.

Overwintering

Winterizing hollyhock depends on where you’re located. If you’re in an area that gets hard freezes, you can only grow hollyhock as an annual rather than a perennial or biennial.

Start seeds indoors then overwinter indoors as well. During winter dormancy, reduce watering and stop fertilizing. Reintroduction to the outdoors in spring when the temperatures warm up.

Deadhead them so you can get exactly how many you want. Propagation is easy with the seeds they produce.

If your zone doesn’t get too cold, then you’ve got it easy. To prepare hollyhock for the winter, cut them down to 5-6 inches.

For cooler zones, use some straw mulch or leaf litter to cover the top 5 inches of the soil line. You can also use organic mulch to do the same over the base of the plant.

Just make sure the root system is insulated from the elements. In the spring, gently remove the coverage 1 inch per week until you acclimate the plant.

When it starts producing again, remove the straw completely.

Growing in containers

Hollyhocks don’t fare well in pots or containers.

They have long roots that need plenty of space to grow outwards. Potted plants also require precise soil metrics (nutrients) and they need more water.

For these reasons, it can be difficult to balance out the proper ideal soil metrics to get your hollyhock to do well in a pot. If you insist on container planting, use a big pot, such as a whisky barrel for the roots to grow.

Dwarf varieties have smaller root systems but still need plenty of space. The container also must be sturdy so it doesn’t topple over.

Remember that this plant doesn’t like to be moved around. Once it establishes itself, it should never be uprooted.

Growing indoors

Hollyhock can’t be grown indoors as it’s too big for most households.

It also will need full sun and plenty of room to grow its strong root system. For these reasons, it’s not something you can grow indoors unless you’re germinating seeds.

Seed saving

Saving the seeds for next season is easy. Let some of the flowers fade so they wilt. This will allow the stalks to grow the seeds and then drop them.

Collect the seeds from the soil and clean them with a cotton bud or dry cloth. Put them into an envelope for next season. Keep them out of moisture, light, or high humidity so they remain fertile.

If you want to bring in beneficial pollinators, stick with the single type. If you want that fuller bloom look, then opt for double flowering types.

The majority of hollyhocks will be grown as perennials. You can extend the blooming period by deadheading spent flowers as they fade. If you’re in a nonhumid region, cutting them back to the soil level and then mulching will bring in more blooms.

Companion plants

Hollyhock makes excellent background plants that pair well with shorter perennials in front of it.

There are many plants you can pair with it. Some good choices for plant company include:

• Dahlia
• Clematis
• Shasta daisy
• Shrub rose
• Baby’s breath
• Black-eyed Susan
• Phlox
• Sweet William
• Climbing roses
• Roses
• Rose mallow
• Delphiniums
• Peonies
• Ornamental grasses
• Bellflowers
• Daisies
• Coneflowers
• Echinacea
• Dianthus
• Foxgloves

Don’t plant with

You should avoid planting hollyhock with plants that have opposing care requirements.

Don’t plant with taller foliage as the effect of the flowers won’t look as grand. Also, don’t plant with other hollyhocks if they’re less than 2 feet distance from each other.

Pests

For the most part, hollyhock is resilient to bugs. It’s also deer resistant, so you can grow it fear-free in your cottage garden if you’re in a rural area.

The most common insects you’ll find on your hollyhock are snails, slugs, spider mites, Japanese beetles, hollyhock weevils, caterpillars, sawflies, aphids, worms, or fleas.

These can leave behind minor visual damage, holes in the leaves/flowers, or yellow spots on the leaf surfaces. Orange or brown raised pustules on the lower leaves can be caused by Puccinia malvacearum is a rust fungus, not a pest.

Horticultural  oil, pyrethrin, carbaryl, acephate, soaps, or commercial products can be used to eliminate these pests.

Most of them can be ridden by simply removing them manually. Use a high pressure hose to spray them off as you water.

If you need to use insecticides, consider using organic ones instead of synthetic ones.

This is better for your garden, especially if you have edibles, pets, kids, etc. It’s also good for the planet. Snails and slugs can be baited with beer traps or removed by hand.

Spider mites can be ridden with diatomaceous earth. Beetles can be ridden with neem oil. No need to use poisonous compounds that harm your hollyhock!

Diseases

Rust is a common problem with hollyhocks. Rust looks like small yellow spots on the leaves. It turns brown over time. The rust can show up on the bottom of the foliage.

It can be controlled by watering at the base, minimizing watering, and pruning regularly. If your plant is dense, it restricts evaporation. This leads to fungal issues.

So you wanna make sure you never overwater, overfeed, or fall back on pruning. Keep your hollyhock nice and clean. Fungus loves environments with poor water drainage or high moisture foliage.

Usage scenarios

Hollyhock is versatile in the sense that you can use them for a variety of purposes.

Use them as the backdrop of your cottage garden outlining the perimeter with its towering flowers. It can also be planted with other perennials like roses, dahlias, or bellflowers for endless blooms every season.

Many people line their fencing or other structures with this plant because it grows tall. You can use it to hide vertical structures like your house exterior, sheds, or fencing if you want to hide those uglies.

Other common questions about hollyhock care

Here are some questions from readers about general care for hollyhocks. Note that YMMV. It depends on what type of hollyhock you’re growing and where you’re located.

You may find these tips helpful. If you have questions of your own, please leave a comment at the end of this care guide!

How long does it take hollyhocks to grow?

It takes about 2-3 weeks for seeds to germinate.

From there, it’ll take 2 years for a hollyhock to establish itself and then produce flowers. Some will bloom within 1 year, but this depends on the variety.

What month do you plant hollyhock seeds?

Hollyhocks should be planted in seed beds in the late summer.

They can be sown indoors or outside in containers. This is usually in March through May if sown under covers. Once planted, don’t disturb the seeds.

How many years do hollyhocks last?

Hollyhocks are perennials when grown in ideal conditions. They’ll self-seed to produce more plants as soon as they fade. They last 2-3 years.

Do hollyhocks survive winter?

Yes, hollyhocks will survive the winter. They’re hardy down to 5F when established. If it’s especially cold in your zone, keep the entire root system using organic mulch. 4-5 inches is enough to help keep it warm during the cold snaps.

Are hollyhock roots invasive?

Hollyhock is considered an invasive plant in the US.

It’s contributed to 42% of US threatened/endangered species. This is why self-seeding plants can be dangerous.

Be sure to remove seedlings next season that you don’t want to keep. The roots are also extensive and will take over nearby plants. Provide ample room from nearby foliage so they don’t compete.

Why are the flowers falling off my hollyhock?

There can be many reasons. Flowers drop in extreme heat or extreme cold. Temperature fluctuations can also lead to blossoms falling off.

Too much shade or too much light can also cause leaf drops.

Wind, rain, or other natural weather patterns can harm your plant. If it’s too tall and sways in the wind, this can force the blossoms to fall. Provide adequate light and nutrients in the soil.

Do birds eat hollyhock seeds?

Birds do indeed eat the seeds. Hollyhock brings in pollinators like bees and birds. Both of which will flock to the flowers. If you have plants that need pollinating, hollyhock can help.

What can I do with hollyhock seeds?

Hollyhock seeds can be saved for next season. Snap the seed pods off the stalks with your fingers then store them in a sealed container.

That’s all there is to harvest them. They’ll be good until next season.

Do hollyhocks bloom the first year?

Hollyhocks will generally bloom in the second year rather than the first. This is why they’re known as biennials.

Some species will bloom the first year if planted early enough, such as the queeny purple variety.

But most species will need a dual season to bloom.

Further reading/references

Check out these sites for more info on hollyhocks:

• Growing Hollyhocks – SDSU Extension
• Explore Cornell – Home Gardening – Flower Growing Guides
• Common Hollyhock (Alcae rosea) – UIC Heritage Garden
• Hollyhock Rust – Wisconsin Horticulture

• Why did only one of my hollyhocks flower?

Hollyhocks take care of themselves

Once you get them going, you don’t need to do anything else. Hollyhock is one of those perennials that just don’t need to worry about other than basic TLC.

These plants make excellent background plants with their towering nature.

With a variety of easy blooms, colors, and tolerance to drought, hollyhock is a garden favorite.

Do you have questions about growing and caring for hollyhock? Post them!

The post How to Grow Hollyhock (Complete Care Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.

Enter the butterwort!

This carnivorous plant catches flying insects passively by sticking to them with its coated leaves.

It’s unique because it’s both a decorative plant and a succulent depending on the time of year.

So you really get to experience two plants in one.

(Oh, and it’s also a flycatcher).

Ready to learn how to grow and care for butterwort?

You’ll be glad you did!

These things are going to be your new BFF, especially if you have flying insects in your house!

Quick care guide: Butterwort

What’s butterwort?

Butterwort is a carnivorous plant (Pinguicula or “ping” for short), similar to the Venus flytrap which is commonly sold in stores in those small plastic cylindrical tubes.

There’s also the pitcher plant which is also passively carnivorous. Butterwort isn’t nearly as popular as the flytraps or pitcher plants because it hasn’t been nearly as commercialized as them.

But they offer their own unique little tidbits that make them an exciting project for kids.

It’s also known as Mexican Pinguicula, where it grows in seasonal fog forests on limestone cliffs in the wild. The plant is found natively in moss, cracks in the stone, or on cliffs with lots of shade.

There are over 80-some species in the subgenus with plenty of variation between each plant. This also means that each species has its own care needs and will differ between them. There are both Mexican and tropical varieties.

The butterwort, similar to pitcher plants, catches insects passively.

This means it doesn’t actively “move” or “bite” insects to catch them. It’s commonly found in the southeast of the US, with over 80 species. They’re found on every continent except Australia. They grow in the northern hemisphere and half are in Mexico and Central America.

These tiny plants are often unremarkable until they bloom.

Never use insecticides, fungicides, or pesticides on butterwort!

Never use any kind of spray on butterwort.

The plant is extremely sensitive to compounds and will wilt if used. Pinguicula can’t even tolerate dirty water- it needs distilled water! So it’s not going to handle any kind of compound bug spray.

What does butterwort look like?

The appearance of Pinguicula isn’t obvious. It’s largely boring until it flowers.

The leaves are green or yellow, which gives it the “butter” in the name. The leaves are slightly greasy or oily to the touch, which has a buttery feel to them.

It’s a crawling plant that forms rosettes and will bloom with pink, purple, white, or yellow flowers in the springtime where it passively catches insects.

There are so many variations of butterwort- everything from purple to blue to pink. The shape of the foliage also varies between each plant.

The leaves are slimy in the summertime, but because of succulents in the winter. Did you know that only the summertime leaves are carnivorous?

Butterwort likes warm humid conditions in the summertime. In the winter, they prefer cooler and drier conditions. This is why they make excellent houseplants that can be placed next to a sunny windowsill.

Their care requirements are very similar to African violets.

What does it eat?

Butterwort doesn’t “eat” insects. It passively catches them by their own mistake!

In other words, the plant’s leaves have this special coating on them that sticks to insects. When the insect touches it, it has a hard time escaping it.

This then provides food for the butterwort to digest, such as nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. The bug of choice is gnats.

If you look online, you’ll find a lot of controversy between gardeners. There’s plenty of disagreement on how to grow and care for butterwort:

• Is butterwort REALLY a bog plant?
• Can you use the standard CP mix as soil?
• Should you keep the soil moist or wet?

It really varies depending on the type of species you’re growing. There are even hybrid species.

Is butterwort easy to grow?

It’s easy to grow, but hard to fully master. That’s the easiest way I can phrase it.

Butterwort is easy to grow. It finds itself in the homes of people looking for some kind of “fun” plant that has some neat ways of consuming prey.

With the right soil, watering regimen, and diet of bugs, it is a hardy little perennial that doesn’t need to be purchased every season, unlike venus flytraps or pitcher plants.

Of course, kids are the primary demographic for butterwort. So they may need some help getting their green thumb into play.

It’s fairly self-sufficient once it becomes established. If you have a gnat problem inside your home, butterwort can help catch them passively!

The plant can be grown both indoors and outside, but for optimal growth, it should be planted where it gets natural sunlight.

The plant will bring in tiny bugs with its colorful flowers and dark green foliage, both of which bugs love. The insects will come to the plant and get stuck on the slimy coating, to which then the butterwort slowly digests the insects that are caught.

But some things can be tricky:

• Watering the RIGHT amount (matching the watering method/frequency to the soil)
• Using the RIGHT substrate
• Keeping temperatures/humidity stable

If one of these variables is off, it can harm the plant. For example, if you water the right amount but the soil doesn’t uptake it at the right speed, it can pool. Pooling is bad.

It can lead to root rot or fungus. Since they can’t tolerate fungicides, you’re screwed. You’ll have to prune it off and reduce watering to get rid of the pathogens.

How to propagate butterwort

There are three primary ways to propagate butterworts.

They’re all easy to do, but some will get your plant going quicker than others. They each have their own business.

For example, leaf pulling will help your plants get a head start compared to starting from seed or by division. But it can only be done in the spring after it flowers.

Seeded plants will also have more variability, so you don’t know what you’re getting. Leaf pulling always produces the same plant. Let’s cover each one in detail.

Starting from seed

Starting from seed is the most rewarding. You get to see everything from seedlings and beyond. Buy a packet of seedlings for your local nursery or online.

There are so many species of butterwort. You’ll need to do your own research to see which one thrives in your hardiness zone. Some hybrids combine features from two or more species! See the next section for more info.

When you finally decide on one, it’s time to sow! First, read the package. The instructions you get from there override anything you read online.

• Next, get a pot and fill it all the way to the top leaving just about 2 inches from the rim.
• Use your favorite soil mix. It just needs to be well draining. There are recipes for making your own substrate growing medium for butterwort in the “soil” section of this guide.
• Use 1-2” of sphagnum moss on the bottom of the plant. Then put 0.5 inches on top.
• Use chopped sphagnum to help keep the moss fine. Place the seed on the surface of the substrate. Don’t bury it.
• Water the soil until it’s moist. Cover with a dome or plastic bag to help keep it mid.
• Place the pot under grow lights. Keep the temperature between 60-80F. Provide at least 8 hours of light per day. Keep the moss moist 24/7.
• Don’t let it sit in water, as some people recommend. This just encourages fungus to grow. If the moss becomes dry, water from the bottom.
• Never water the seedlings because fungus can kill them. The seeds should germinate within 2-4 weeks.
• When they’re about a half inch across, they can be moved to their own containers or in a big pot for multiple butterwort seedlings.

Leaf pullings

Leaf pulling will create clones of the original host plant. It requires an existing plant to take the pulling from, then using the leaf to produce an exact specimen that you can replant elsewhere.

The right time to take a leaf pulling is at the end of winter dormancy-right before the plant starts to produce new foliage for the spring. The leaves are in the succulent period, so they’re easy to remove and plant.

Find an older leaf that’s fully grown on the outside of the rosette. It should be an outer edge leaf. Gently pull it off the plant so it snaps off. If it rips in half, it’s no good. Use a whole leaf only. If you use partial portions, it may not root correctly.

Place the leaf on the surface of the potting substrate. The sticky side should be facing upwards. Let it sit. Over time, a new plant will grow from the leaf pull. While it’s slow, it’s still much quicker than starting from seed. Plus, you know what you’re getting.

Butterwort division

Butterworth will split by itself into multiple rosettes in the spring. This occurs after the butterwort becomes established in its home.

When the new buds grow out, they split automatically. The rosettes produce their own sts of leaves.

When this happens, uproot them and divide them. This produces identical plants to the original butterwort. It’s as easy as it gets.

Types of butterwort

There are over 80 species of butterwort in existence. Half of them are in Mexico and Central America. Here are some of common species of butterwort.

Popular species:

• Pinguicula laueana
• Pinguicula ehlersiae
• Pinguicula esseriana
• Pinguicula jaumavensis
• Pinguicula immaculata
• Pinguicula kondoi

Other species:

• Pinguicula moranensis
• Pinguicula agnata
• P. moranesis
• P. grandiflora
• P. primuliflora
• P. potosensis
• P. ramosa
• P. elizabethiae
• P. conzattii
• P. toldensis
• P. laxifolia
• P. moctezumae
• P. alpina
• P. potosiensis
• P. chuquisacensis
• P. rotundiflora esseriana
• P. agnate
• P. vulgaris
• P.  gigantea
• P. longifolia

As they all have their own unique features, it’s worth your time to check them out so you know what you’re getting into. I don’t mean literally read about each one- but look up some cool pics of butterwort and then go from there.

How to grow butterwort

This section covers the basic care guidelines for growing butterwort.

It’s simple to grow, requiring very little care once it’s rooted. It does have a few quirks though- specifically the soil type and the watering regimen.

You’ll find everything you need to know in this care sheet. Questions? Post your comments at the end of this guide.

I’m not claiming to be an expert- that wouldn’t be the point for writing on Gardenisms. These are more of general care guidelines.

Hardiness zone

Butterwort grows well in the southeastern regions of the US, where it’s found natively in the boggy marshes.

The plant can be grown as an annual in a container if you’re outside of zones 10-11.

Within those zones, it can be grown as a perennial so you don’t need to replant it yearly. It grows rosettes to propagate itself for the next season.

Soil

Similar to other carnivorous plants, butterwort prefers boggy soil conditions. The nutrients are generally poor with warmer temperatures, and high humidity.

The soil should be alkaline (higher pH) with plenty of moisture. This is where peat moss comes into play.

Use peat moss, vermiculite, or sand. You can also combine them in equal parts to make your own soil. This will help keep the substrate moist to the bog-like conditions it prefers.

You can make your own soil by using the following formula for Mexican or temperate species using some basic ingredients from your local nusery:

• 1-2 parts peat moss (organic)
• 2 part sand (rough/coarse, limestone)
• 2 parts perlite (organic)
• 2 parts vermiculite
• 1 part potting mix

The peat is highly acidic, so you use sand to raise its pH of it to become more alkalinity. Dolomitic lime is also excellent for the mix (use one tablespoon per 2-3 cups of sol). Some soils will come with pH adjusted so you can use that to your benefit.

Worm castings are also good. They can help fertilize the soil. Mineral soil mix is good if growing inside containment, like greenhouses.

Pumice, vermiculite, orchid bark, or even just regular potting soil. There are tons of resources online you can read to make your own soil mix. Avoid using excess fertilizer as it can burn them. Light soil fertilization is key.

Some people like lava rock or gypsum.

Oh yeah- Vermiculite will become slimy over time, so you’ll need to replace it. Just FYI.

Butterwort pH

Butterwort prefers alkaline soils over acidic soils.

You can check the acidity/alkalinity of your soil by using pH test kits (see Amazon). If your pH is too acidic, you can make it more basic (alkaline) by using soil amendments to raise the pH. Limestone works well. You can even make your own amendments with baking soda.

Aim for a pH value of 7.0-8.5. Butterwort won’t grow optimally if the substrate is too acidic, so avoid it!

Spacing

Butterwort plants should be spaced at least 2-5 inches between each plant. If planting multiple species in a single pot, give them enough space so they can thrive.

If you want to get that fuller look, use compact varieties. This lets you pack them closer together. You can achieve the same look as those decorative succulent baskets you see in garden centers.

For bigger varieties, give them enough space to grow.

Packing them too closely together will lead to competition for nutrients, poor evaporation, and smaller blossoms.

Depth

If you’re starting from seed, just place each seed on the surface. No need to bury it. Just place it on the moss and you’ll be  good to go.

For divisions, just replant the new rosettes into the soil with just the exposed flesh side under the soil line. The same goes for pulls. No need to do any soil firming either.

These plants will easily root if conditions are good. You can get multiple plants from one single butterwort.

Fertilizer

Butterwort doesn’t need special plant food or fertilizers. As long as sufficient insects are provided, the plant should thrive given that the light, temperature, and humidity are correct.

If your garden doesn’t have a lot of bugs or if your butterwort is having difficulty catching insects, you can supplement with an NPK ratio of 20-14-13. Use as directed. Higher “N” nitrogen is good for leafy growth.

Try half dosages first before you use the entire thing. Use during spring or summer, only a few times per month- they don’t require much fertilizer so no need to overdo it.

If you’re growing in a pot, you need to limit it because it can lead to nutrient buildup. Gnats, mites, springtails, fruit flies, fleas and aphids- they’re all fair game.

You can also supplement with worm castings to help fertilize it. This pairs well with the soil mixture you read about earlier in this guide.

Fertilizer should be used in very small doses because it burns when excessive amounts are used. Especially if grown in plants that are suspended in water. Fertilizer in still water is too high in concentration. It can burn the butterwort roots, so don’t do it!

Watering

The frequency of water is important, but so is the quality of the water you use. The plant must always be moist. The environment must be humid, boggy, and swamp-like.

Use only distilled water to water butterwort. It’s extremely sensitive to minerals, fluoride, or chlorine in the water. Salt is dangerous too. If it rains a lot near you, use rainwater for free water!

Be sure that you water from below. Pour it into the base of the plant. If you water on the leaves, the water will pool. This can clean the leaves with bugs on them, but it can give rise to root rot or crown rot if it pools.

Water will stay in the rosettes, which isn’t good. There are lots of hobbyist websites online you can read to formulate a watering plan.

Note that temperate butterwort should be watered with cold water. Reduce watering when the rosettes change to their succulent period in the winter. The soil should be on the dry side with only occasionally dampening.

Some people plant their butterwort in humid greenhouses using overhead misters.

The thing to keep in mind is that the soil you use needs to absorb the water or drain it appropriately so that it doesn’t pool. If it does, use less water or switch to a looser soil.

Plants grown indoors require heavier, water-absorbing soil. Some people plant their butterwort under humid continues and then top it off with water. Others won’t top it. Some people even leave it sitting in ¼ inch of water from spring to fall.

The plant can’t be dried out between watering sessions. You must keep it nice and wet. This will vary depending on the type of Pinguicula you’re growing too.

Species that have big winter leaves like slightly damp soil. Cuban species should be moist all year. Smaller leafed rosettes like P. gypsicola or heterophylla/macrophylla prefer bone dry environments.

If growing butterwort in a container, note that you’ll need to water it more often than soil sown plants. Potted butterwort will evaporate and drain water quickly, so be sure to give it enough water to keep it moist or boggy.

Invest in a soil meter (see Amazon) so you know exactly when to water it. Humidity meters (hygrometers) are also excellent choices. If planting in a terrarium, humidity is important.

Sunlight

Butterwort requires specific light cues to fluctuate between the carnivorous and succulent leaves.

Heterophyllous species will have carnivorous leaves in the spring through the fall. Succulent, non carnivorous leaves will be present in the winter to the early spring.

The plant will need cues from lighting to accomplish these transitions. If you’re growing them outside or near sunny windowsills, you should be OK.

In the summertime, the leaves are bigger. They also produce more dew for bugs. Adjust your lighting to match the season variation. 10 hours for winter and 14 hours for summer is the rule of thumb.

Don’t just change it right away. Slowly change it over time so it can adjust to it. This will help sync the plant to the changes in season.

But if you’re growing them in a greenhouse or away from natural lighting, then you’ll need to use a timer to adjust. Slowly increase or decrease the day length accordingly.

If the light doesn’t change based on the season, they may get stuck in the non carnivorous state. Warmer months require more daylight. Cooler months require less. Change the photoperiod slowly over time. Homophilous species like P. Gigantea don’t require changing photoperiods.

These plants do well in bright lights on west or east-facing windows where they get full sun in the early or later hours of the day. Mid-day sun is too much, which can burn the leaves.

If you choose to grow lights, use high output LED lights with 18w per square foot at 12 inches distance.

Temperature

Butterwort tolerates a range of temperatures and will need cold winters to thrive. They grow worldwide and come from a range of zones.

The temperate species in the US will tolerate some cold and brief below zero temperature dips. Areas with warmer weather are preferred. Terrariums, greenhouses, or windowsills are all excellent places to grow them besides the garden in a pot.

Humidity

Humidity should be high for butterwort to thrive. If you’re growing the roots in suspended water, humidity should be high enough from the passive evaporation of the water.

For soil-based plants, most regularly to help increase the humidity. Use a humidity meter to get accurate readings. High humidity is good but requires good evaporation.

Leaf and root rot will be common in plants with poor flow. The humidity should be fine if you don’t let them dry out and keep the soil moist. The substrate you use makes a huge impact.

Pruning

Butterwort needs regular pruning to keep it looking tidy. It’s not that often, so don’t freak out. Remove any leaves that are yellowing or browning. Infested leaves with pests or viruses should also be removed.

Spent flowers should be cut at the stem. If humidity is too high, it can lead to fungus or rot. Pruning will help reduce humidity.

Blooming

This plant will constantly bloom throughout the season. Most plants can self-pollinate their flowers. The plant is difficult to pollinate by hand because of how the flowers are built.

Using a small toothpick to transfer the pollen from the anthers to the stigmas can help if it’s having difficulty doing it on its own.

The plant is usually pollinated by hummingbirds. The bird will stick its tongue into the flower to get pollen but will deposit the pollen into the stigma. But you can replicate this using toothpick if no such pollinators are in your zone.

Overwintering

Butterwort will need to undergo a dormancy period to grow as a perennial. The leaves spent blooms, and stems should be cut back in the winter so pests won’t chew on them.

The plant enters it on its own when the temperatures dip. It’ll also exit dormancy in the springtime when temperatures pick back up.

The only thing you need to do is watch the temperature for extreme dips. Supplement with some mulch to help insulate it if it’s too cold. Prune the foliage for wintertime too before they die back or else they’ll become gnat food.

Some people don’t cut their plants back during winter dormancy. If the humidity is low and the plant is dry, it may be advisable. If it’s too dry with zero foliage, it’ll kill it if there’s no hydration. In dormancy, you can keep it sitting in a 1inchtray of water so it doesn’t dry out.

This is one of those plants that’s simple to grow, but difficult to master. There are so many hardcore fans that have their own techniques.

Mexican or temperate butterworts will have a dormancy period marked by the carnivorous to succulent leaf change. The tighter leaves won’t catch bugs.

When these tight leaves have been formed, withhold water by reducing it. ONLY do this when they go dormant.

But, when they change back to carnivorous foliage, begin increasing the watering regimen.

Feeding butterwort

Butterwort is carnivorous in the summertime, so it’ll catch gnats and other flies on its own if raised outside. You’ll find a bunch of tiny flies all over the leaves just stuck there with time.

It can get pretty ugly, but it’s enjoying its meal. If there’s too much food available, it can be a bad thing. How? Because the gnats can infest the soil the Pinguicula sits in.

They can even eat the leaves (their larvae love the leaves). This usually happens if there’s an outbreak in the population. You don’t need to feed it yourself unless you’re growing it indoors.

If the bug population gets overwhelming, take care of it. Set a layer of silica sand on the soil surface to help block them from burrowing. Remove infected foliage if you see it.

Growing indoors

Butterwort can be grown inside the house without compromise. Put it next to a sunny windowsill and you’re good to go. If you have eastern or western facing ones, that’s ideal.

Continue to monitor the temperature and humidity.

Water on a schedule. Provide ample LED lights if needed. You may have issues getting gnats caught, but you can put it outside for a few days each week so it can feed.

The nice part about growing butterwort indoors is that it’s safe from temperature swings and humidity is generally higher. Be sure to invest in some humidity gauges and soil meters. This will let you know when it’s time to water.

Growing in pots

Most people will grow butterwort in pots because they’re much easier to relocate for the changing seasons.

If you decide to do so, note that you’ll need to water it much more often because water evaporates quickly in potted plants. Additionally, no fertilizer is necessary for potted butterwort.

The size of the container should be at least 4 inches across. You can plant multiple butterworts in one big community container if you want to. This shouldn’t be an issue. They just need proper spacing between each plant so they don’t compete for nutrients.

Single plants can be moved around outside, next to windowsills, greenhouses, etc. Butterwort is versatile. It can even be used in terrariums, like this:

Choosing a container with a width of 4 inches and a depth of at least 3-5 inches for one plant. If planting multiple, space them at least 2-5 inches. The material of the pot also is important.

Plastic containers don’t hold heat well, so it’s not recommended for areas with temperature swings. Ceramic or stone containers are nice because they provide some degree of insulation to the temps due to their porousness.

Warm temperature species do well in glazed ceramics, stone, or terra cotta. Undrained containers can be used for this butterwort if you want to let it dip in standing water.

Mexican species do well in draining containers, but can be grown in shallow undrained pots as well. Line the bottom with lava rock to help improve drainage. Abalone shells as well.

If growing in containers, they need to be repotted every 4-5 years because the old leaves will block the new roots from growing.

If you notice your plant isn’t growing or blooming, check the roots. It may need to be repotted. If the plant’s fragile roots come out of the drainage holes or the plant starts to droop over the edge of the pot, it may be time for a bigger container for your butterwort.

Pests

Butterwort is resilient to pests for the most part. After all, they’re made for catching them, right?

Some bug populations may become so overwhelming that they can suffocate your butterwort. Even the fungus gnat can do so. Other pests include spider mites, aphids, or whiteflies.

For most butterworts, these bugs are good! They’re food.

But just keep tabs on the bug populations. If they look like there are too many of them, step in and do something.

Put some mulch to help block the bugs from entering the soil column. Use fly traps to help catch some of them to take the load off your plant. Sprinkle food grade diatomaceous earth to help kill some flies.

Diseases

The only things you really need to worry about are the following:

• Leaf spot
• Leaf rot
• Root rot
• Powdery mildew
• Crown rot

These are usually caused by overwatering, poor drainage, excessive water, or no regular pruning. You can eliminate most of them simply by watering only when necessary.

If you do spot some rot, don’t use sprays or poisons. Only use natural methods like pruning. The compounds found in those poisons are too harmful for these gentle succulents.

Companion plants

Butterwort can be planted with a few other plants, but prefer to be grown in isolation. If you must pair them with company plants, here are some ideas to get your ideas jogging:

• Sedum
• Echeveria
• Lithops
• Sundews
• Picther plants
• Utricularia
• Flytraps
• D. schizandra
• D. prolifera
• Other butterworts plants or succulents for a seriously gorgeous plant mix on your patio

Whatever you choose, it should have similar care requirements as the butterwort.

Don’t plant with

Avoid planting with other plants that have different care requirements. Plants that need a lot more water or a lot less water should be avoided. The same goes for general care (sunlight, temperature, etc.). Don’t plant with other succulents too compactly, including butterwort.

Yes, that’s right.

Don’t pack them too tightly. You’ll stunt their growth, give rise to failed blooms, and even make your plants vulnerable to pests. Give them their space they need.

Usage scenarios

Butterwort is commonly used to decorate the garden. It can be used on sunny spots around the house, kitchen counters, or patios. Some place it outside with other succulents or in a large succulent mix.

It doubles as a fly trapper. So if you’ve got flying insects, put this guy near them and it’ll get rid of them for you. For free!

Commonly asked questions about butterwort care

Here are some random questions that we get a lot from readers. You may find them handy for your situation.

If you have questions of your own, please feel free to post a comment using the form at the end of this page.

Where to buy butterwort

Butterwort can be purchased online from nurseries. This carnivorous plant isn’t as popular as the Venus flytrap, so nurseries generally don’t carry it.

However, you can find it available for purchase in seed form online. Or you can have it shipped to your home and then do a leaf pull/divide it if you don’t wanna start from seed.

How long does it take to grow butterwort?

It takes about 2-4 weeks to start from seed. After that, butterwort will begin to root and establish itself. It takes a few seasons for it to do this

It’s a slow plant, so don’t expect to see those gorgeous blooms right away. It’ll need time and patience to fully develop so it can bloom for you. Hybrids generally bloom nonstop once they get going.

When should I repot butterwort?

Repot it when it’s outgrowing its pot. Check the holes on the bottom for roots coming out. If foliage is sticking out of the rim of the container, it’s also time to repot.

For undrained pots, lack of flowers or growth is both signs that your plant may be outgrowing its container. Sometimes, it can also be depletion of nutrients in the soil column that require repotting.

Is a butterwort a succulent?

Butterwort has a succulent period during the wintertime to spring when prey isn’t common.

During this period, it won’t have sticky leaves that stick to bugs. The leaves will get smaller and not have that full-looking appearance. Mexican species will turn into a non carnivorous succulent plants during the winter dry season.

Then they’ll go back to non-succulents when the spring is here once again.

Where do butterwort plants grow?

Butterwort is found natively in the wild throughout the northern hemisphere. It can be found in multiple countries globally. Butterwort has been found from Siberia to South America.

Further reading/references

• Pinguicula – North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
• Pinguicula vulgaris L. butterwort
• Pinguicula – Wikipedia

Enjoy your butterwort!

Now that you know the basics of how to grow and care for butterwort, you can enjoy the unique way of “eating” this plant! Don’t let the online resources scare you.

There are dozens of websites and even forums dedicated to the butterwort hobby. Just pick a care routine that sounds like a good fit. And just do it!

With proper care (watering, temperature, and soil), butterwort will provide you with seasons of fascinating colors, and shapes, and be your best friend if you have gnats.

Leave your questions in the comments section below! If you have any tips to share with other readers, post them!

The post How to Grow Butterwort (Pinguicula) – Complete Care Sheet appeared first on Gardenisms.

But sadly, it’s greatly misunderstood. It’s even considered a weed!

While it’s easy to grow and requires almost zero care other than pruning, it can overwhelm your garden.

Once you get into the groove of caring for your creeper plant, you’ll enjoy the multitude of benefits it offers, including privacy, plant cover, plus the ability to climb nearly anything.

Let’s learn about how to grow and care for Virginia creeper!

Quick care guide: Virginia creeper

What’s a Virginia creeper?

Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) has a scary name, but it’s only called that because of its “creeping” nature.

In other words, it likes to hang close to the surface and then slowly grow its way up.

This is a native vine that belongs to the grape family. Though it doesn’t produce grape, it does share similarities. It does produce berries that are poisonous.

This vine is also known as the five fingered ivy, Victoria creeper, Boston Ivy, five finger, or woodbine. It comes from of Mexico and the eastern/central United States.

It’s excellent for providing plant cover for surfaces like walls, fences, or voids where some green cover would be nice.

The leaves are numerous and they change over time to different colors depending on the season.

Poison warning

Virginia creeper produces berry fruits that are deep blue in color. These berries bring in birds to help consume the fruit and then deposit the seed elsewhere.

Don’t eat these berries or even touch them!

While they may look like small blueberries, they’re extremely dangerous to people and pets.

Do NOT handle Virginia creepers without proper protection. The plant leaves, stems, and berries have oxalate crystals that are extremely poisonous.

Virginia creeper sap can also irritate the skin and break it. Blisters are very common from sap contact.

NEVER contact any part of the plant without gardening gloves, long-sleeved clothing, proper footwear, and other PPE.

If you don’t know what you’re doing, don’t grow Virginia creeper.

Keep the plant out of reach from pets, people, and other wildlife. Most native wild birds can eat the berries, but that’s it.

What does it look like?

P. quinquefolia has lime green leaves that are compound with 5 lobes sticking out in each direction.

The 5 leaves are green, serrated, and can range from light to dark green, purple, yellow, or even red. They’re very nice when paired with a contrasting plant.

The vines are dark green to brown and they’re leggy and thin. The stems will wrap around random objects- whatever they can grab onto. Even other plants.

The stems have tendrils on them that allow them to attach to fences, walls, pillars, plants, or even your house.

Why? Because the stems are armed with these small disks that let them “suck” onto things.

Surfaces that aren’t solid will suffer from Virginia creepers because they deposit a sticky substance that gets into the porous surface and gives them a real firm grape.

Solid objects are easier to remove the stems. They can creep on both walls or soils as they can go in any direction.

It blooms with grape-like buds that give rise to white flowers in the spring to summer.

Following that, small green berries will appear. They turn dark blue over time which brings in wild birds. They look like mini blueberries.

You’ve probably heard of 3 fingers ivy (3 leaves ivy), which is also poisonous. The five leaves of P. quinquefolia look very similar to it.

Sometimes, Virginia creeper only sprouts 3 leaves. This can lead to confusion between the two plants.

Is it perennial or annual?

Virginia creeper is a perennial native vine plant. It will go through its shades of colors throughout the season and then winterize itself when grown in the right hardiness zones.

It enters dormancy and then will resume growing next spring. This plant is a very quick grower. If you like vine plants, Virginia creeper will do the job.

It will take over your entire garden if you don’t prune it regularly by controlling where it can go.

If grown outside of its hardiness zone, it may grow as an annual. But that’s kinda pointless because it won’t have much to show in one season.

So either plant it in the right zone, or offer some protection like mulch for the winter if you’re in a slightly lower zone.

Is it easy to grow?

Yes, VC is extremely easy to grow.

Once it becomes hardy to cold weather, drought, and poor soil conditions, it can take care of itself.

These plants are considered to be invasive in some regions, so check with your local authority to ensure you can plant them.

But that gives you a look into how easy they are to care for. They do well with poor soil, minimal watering, drought hardy, need no winterizing, and don’t even need plant food!

How to propagate Virginia creeper

Virginia creeper can be propagated through seeds or cuttings. If you don’t have the patience to wait for the seeds to propagate or go through the process of preparing cuttings, you can often find this plant at specialty nurseries or garden centers.

It’s pretty common on the east coast.

Regardless of which propagation method you choose, be sure to exercise caution so you don’t contact or ingest it (it’s poisonous!).

From seed

Starting from seed isn’t easy. It does take some effort because Virginia creeper seeds will need some cold exposure in order to germinate.

But if you’re up for the challenge, it’s the most rewarding once you successfully do it

Don’t use those seed starter kits. While they’re handy for most applications, Virginia creeper isn’t an option.

The seeds won’t take kindly to being moved around after you plant them.

So when you choose somewhere in your garden, consider it permanent. They’re fragile and they have a very low germination rate by nature. If you move them upon germination, you can kill the seedlings.

You can either cold stratify the seeds by putting them out in the cold (if your zone gets cold enough) or you can do artificial stratification by putting them in the fridge.

Assuming you’re planting in the right hardiness zone, you can sow directly in the soil outside in the fall for seedlings in the spring.

If your zone isn’t cold enough, then artificial stratification will be necessary.

Here’s how:

Wait until 8-10 weeks before the last frost date in the spring to prepare. Put the seeds in a zipper bag with some potting mix. Put the bag in the fridge (not in a drawer). Let them sit for 8-10 weeks. Then remove.

Get a coarse object so you can roughen them up a bit. The goal is to scratch the seeds so they’re randomly filed down. Put them into the water and let them sit overnight.

Here’s a good site that shows you how to cold stratify in complete detail.

After you’re done, go ahead and show them in your garden.

Seeds will germinate in a full sun location. Sow each seed 0.25 inches deep. Water thoroughly for the first time, but don’t overwater.

Show about 10 per square foot, but not more than that. Deep water once per week until it sprouts.

Thin the stems to the hardiest stems in the first few weeks or so when the first pair of true leaves show up. Sow into soil that’s been amended with peat moss.

From cuttings

When it comes to propagating Virginia creeper by cuttings, you have two choices. You can use hard or soft cuttings.

Both of them are good choices, but it really depends on what type you have, where you’re located, and when you’re planting. Raed on to learn more.

Hard cuttings

Propagating by hard cuttings should be done in the latter part of the season (fall to spring).

When the plant is dormant and has dropped all its leaves, find a nice thick stem to cut.

It should be at least 12 inches long. Check for leaf nodes so you know where to cut.

Sterilize some pruners then cut it right beneath a leaf node.

Prepare a container with some potting mix. Fill with a high-quality mix at least 5 inches tall.

Dip the stem into some rooting powder. Place it into the potting mix 3 inches deep.

Then water generously.

The container should drain immediately. Consider using pots that are biodegradable. This means no stress later on when you put it into your garden.

No plant shock means a higher chance of rooting success. The stem should be firmly patted in place.

Be prepared to use a bigger pot if you started with a smaller one. When the cutting establishes a good root system, it’s ready to be planted outside! This will take about 3-4 weeks on average.

Put the pot in full sun. Water to keep the soil moist, but never over water. Plant outside when there are no more signs of frost.

Place the rim of the point right on the garden soil line. If you’re using biodegradable pots, then you can just put them right into the dirt! If not, you’ll need to gently uproot it first.

Then plant it so it aligns with the soil line. Be careful! They don’t like being moved around. This can hurt the root system so make sure you’re gentle.

Soft cuttings

If you have existing creeper vines, you can take cuttings from them to grow more.

The ideal time to take cuttings is in the spring when they’re actively growing. Look for a long stem with a fully grown, five fingered leaf. It should be firm and green.

If it’s at least 12 inches in length, it’s a good candidate for cuttings. Younger stems won’t take root as easily, so you should avoid cutting them.

Remember to use protection. You can’t touch the Virginia creeper without it. This plant is poisonous, especially the sap that you may encounter when cutting the stem!

Sterilize your favorite pair of pruners using rubbing alcohol. Cut cleanly right beneath a leaf node. There should be multiple leaf nodes on the stem, so it should be easy to find one.

Remove leaves from the bottom ⅓ of the stem, so only the top ⅔ contains leaves. This is important because you can’t get water or soil on the leaves or else you may introduce rot.

Get a clear vase or jar and then fill it with 3-4 inches of distilled water. Place the stem into the jar (the side with no leaves). It should sit without moving in place.

Use twine to secure it if needed. Put this jar somewhere out of reach in a filtered sunlight location. The water should be monitored for fungus or mold. But algae is OK.

Change the water every other day. Watch for the white/brown roots to develop from the base. Using a clear glass container is easiest since you can see through it without disturbing the plant.

When the roots come out, move your VC into your garden. Choose a good spot. You only get one chance with Virginia creeper since it doesn’t like to be moved once planted.

Place the stem 3 inches deep sot the roots are completely covered. Dig a hole that’s wide enough to accommodate the roots without crushing them.

If you want to use rooting powder or gel, use it now. Some good products that are highly popular are Bonide Bontone II (Amazon) and Garden Safe TakeRoot (Amazon).

Congrats. You now know how to propagate Virginia creeper using the two most popular methods. Of course, we’re leaving one out…

From the nursery

If you wanna skip the germination or the work from propagating cuttings, then simply buying Virginia creeper from the nursery works.

Look for a healthy plant:

• Choose one that has no pest damage (holes, jagged edges, visible eggs, etc.)
• Look for signs of mold or fungus on the leaves or stems
• It shouldn’t be drooping or dropping leaves
• Leaves should be dark/solid in colors
• Vine stems should be thick, firm, and even

Ask the rep for info on how to care for the creeper. If they’re well versed in plants, you should get plenty of good advice for that specific cultivar!

You may wanna ask about their return policy too if you get a dud. Harden the plant off by taking it out and exposing it to the sun daily for a week.

Take your VC out a few hours each day, then bring it back into the partial sun.

When it’s acclimated, plant it at the same depth as the original container.

Use a well-draining potting mix. Watch for signs of mold or fungus. If everything is Gucci, then you’re set. It should take root quickly and then start vining out for you.

How to grow Virginia creeper

This section covers the basic guidelines for P. quinquefolia care.

You’ll discover that a lot of the TLC is autonomous, meaning that VC will care for itself.

Note that your specific plant care needs can vary depending on the local conditions of your zone, plant type, etc.

Hardiness zones

Virginia creeper grows well in USDA hardiness zones 3-10. It’s well adaptable to zones outside of this range as well.

If you’re in a warmer or cooler zone, it can likely tolerate it. This plant is essentially bulletproof.

This is why it can be found all over the world doing its thing. It can grow nearly everywhere because of its resiliency.

Soil

Virginia creeper can thrive in all sorts of soils.

Whether the soil is rich in nutrients, poor, dry, wet, loamy, sandy, clay, or combined soils, this vine plant will do just fine. It’s one of those plants that does well even in poor quality soil.

If you want to optimize its growth, use a nice, earthy soil mix. It should be well-draining and has some degree of nutrients in it to help it grow properly.

Bad quality soil is one thing. But poor draining soils are another. It can tolerate bad soil, but not soil that doesn’t drain.

While it can tolerate a range of soils, make sure the soil is somewhat crumbly in consistency. This helps the roots develop rather than struggle in compact soils. The other thing to keep in mind is that it must drain well. It’ll tolerate a wide range of soil alkalinities/acidities.

Soil pH

Offer slightly acidic to neutral soil.

While the soil’s pH value won’t kill your creeper, it can help optimize the growth and production of berries.

You can make your soil more acidic if it’s too basic by using some natural soil amendments like lime. Aim for a pH range of 5.0-7.1. Use pH strips to test the soil for accuracy.

Spacing

Place each VC about 10 feet apart. If planted in cramped conditions, they’ll compete for the nutrients in the soil. This can make them both grow smaller compared to being provided enough space.

If growing from seed, you can grow them together- even inches apart in pots. Thin to the strongest plant when 4-5 inches tall.

Temperature

Virginia creeper is tolerant of temperature swings.

It’s not bothered by dips in temp nor highs on a hot summer day- as long as they’re not for extended periods of time.

Unlike some other plants that’ll melt in the heat (clematis), the Virginia creeper does otherwise.

Ideally, the temperature range for this perennial vine should be between 60-90F. It’s a wide range because it can adapt to a wide variety of climates- ranging from Hawaii to Florida.

Virginia creeper has been shown to tolerate temperatures as low as -10F, or even -35F in Canada.

It can also handle hot temps over 100F without issue, as it’s drought tolerant. If you’re growing in the right zone, you don’t need to worry about temperature.

Humidity

Humidity is nothing to worry about. Just water 1” per week in the first year, then 1” every other week.

If it’s raining, you can skip watering entirely. The rain will provide more than enough humidity necessary.

As long as your plant is well pruned with no water pooling, you should be fine. Pooling is due to poorly draining soil or clumps in the dirt. Poor soil conditions won’t hurt Virginia creeper, but once it can’t drain well, it will.

The plant is indigenous to the eastern US and can grow even in extremely dry conditions (drought tolerant).

Watering

Water about 1-2 inches of water per week in the first season.

Following that, the creeper vine becomes established. So it needs less water per week. You can reduce it to 1 inch every other week or so, depending on your local climate. Account for periods of drought, where it may need more water.

During periods of rain, you can reduce the watering regimen. A single rainfall can supply enough water for a month. Virginia creeper is hardy to drought, so you don’t need to worry about underwatering.

It’s always overwatering, which may lead to root rot, fungus, or other issues stemming from too much water in the soil. Water around the plant’s base, but never directly at the leaves. If you notice spots where water is pooling, you’ll need to get rid of it.

Till the soil or swap it out for something else.

Sunlight

Choose a full sun location with at least 5 hours of daily sunlight.

Virginia creeper will tolerate both full sun or partial shade locations, but the brighter the light is, the more colorful the leaves will be. Especially when fall rolls around. Shady gardens will do fine for this plant- it really isn’t picky.

It’s just up to you- do you want to bring that amazing color? Or do you just want some plant coverage?

Whatever you want, this guy can do it! Full sun locations provide optimal fall color.

Even though it’s tolerant of various degrees of shade, it’ll show its best color if given full sun specifically. Plant it on a wall for double the wow when you see those berries come out.

Fertilizer

Plant food is optional. Virginia creeper does exceptionally well without any additional fertilizer, so you don’t need to worry about this. The plant will easily adapt to your local conditions.

If you must supplement with fertilizer, use balanced plant food with an NPK ratio of 10-10-10. Use granular fertilizer on the soil to keep it vigorous throughout the springtime. Feed it once or twice per season. Use as instructed. General-purpose plant food works well.

Nitrogen will help encourage more foliage, but fewer blooms, so you can kind of change the ratio to suit your needs. More flowers? Use less N. More leaves? Use more N.

Plant supports

Virginia creeper is a self-climbing vine. It doesn’t need you to wrap or twine it onto objects for it to cling.

Once it grabs onto something, it can wrap its leaf veins around it without help. This can be good or bad:

If you want to control where it grows, you’ll need to monitor it so you can prune or redirect the vines as needed.

When the plant grows, you can control where it goes with regular plant supports, wooden stakes, cages, or just garden twine. Tie it around an object to direct its growth.

Over time, the stems/vines will get thicker and heavier.

So don’t use fragile or lightweight objects.

Some ideal plant supports for Virginia creeper include:

• Walls
• Sidings
• Fences
• Trellises
• Lattices
• Poles
• Archways
• Pillars
• Cages
• Stakes
• Pathing
• Other plants
• Specimen trees
• Pergolas
• Garden arbors
• Or just let it be ground cover

If you don’t care or provide a trellis, lattice, fence, or some other object for it to climb, it’ll do it by itself without extra help. No plant ties are necessary! It’s a climbing vine that’ll just sprawl across your garden’s dirt if you don’t let it climb on something.

It can grow upwards of 50 feet per plant. Some people even use it as erosion control on hillsides or ranches/farms. This makes it cheap and effective fodder to prevent erosion.

Note that this plant will grow like crazy once it settles in. While it requires minimal care to get it going, maintaining it can be time-consuming. The main stems will become heavier over time and then woody. You may be spending quite some time in the garden if you don’t regularly trim it back.

The base of the plant will become tough and hard, which makes relocating it a default task.

Whatever you let it grow on, assume it’s permanent. This is a low maintenance landscaping plant with stick disk-like appendages on its tendrils.

Once it grips, it’s hard to get off. The plant suckers will penetrate cracks and stick themselves onto surfaces.

They can even peel paint from sensitive textures which can cause permanent damage to materials like wood, stone, ceramics, or masonry. Direct contact with the vines should be avoided if possible. Let them grow on something dedicated just for the vines like an armature so the plant doesn’t ruin the finish.

If you care about your house, don’t let it touch the walls. It’ll leave behind dabs of color and peel the paint off the walls.

Pruning

For parts that have dense foliage, you’ll want to prune it regularly to encourage good water evaporation. If it gets pooled or the water can’t evaporate, it can lead to root rot.

Regularly pruning (be sure to wear your protective garden gear), can help trim the plant back so it looks tidier and keeps it out of places you don’t want it to be growing into.

It also helps increase the airflow so the water can evaporate. Virginia creeper is easily trimmed into whatever shape or form you want it to be. If you wanna keep it neat and tidy on a stake or trellis, then just cut the excess with sharp, clean pruners regularly.

You really have a lot of options to prune this vine to your favor. Don’t be afraid to cut it back.

It helps keep it free of pests and pathogens, and looks great! If your garden has lots of other plants nearby, it may be wise to keep it maintained so it doesn’t grab them and then choke them.

It’ll latch onto whatever is nearby, so keep that in mind. Some surfaces may be damaged by the goop it seeps out if you don’t keep it pruned. It’s pretty difficult to remove from porous objects once it climbs on them.

So if you have sensitive paints or expensive objects, be sure to watch out and keep them pruned!

If you notice damaged leaves, stems, or other issues from pests, remove them immediately. Cut it back right above a leaf node to help encourage new growth.

Virginia creeper is very hardy towards pests, so don’t be afraid to cut it back to remove damaged parts.

The ideal time to cut back Virginia creeper vines is in the winter or early spring when the plant is dormant. Keep it under a strict pruning schedule if you want it to look neat. It can threaten to overtake your garden, especially when it starts wrapping on other plants, gutters, or porous surfaces.

Lastly, prune off spent flowers, yellowing or browning leaves, and other ugly parts. If it’s ugly, just take it off! No need to worry with Virginia creeper.

Toss the infested or dirty parts into the trash. Remove vines that have been detached. They can’t reattach so they should be trimmed.

Harvesting

This is a non-harvestable plant in terms of edible fruits.

The berries that VC produces are only good for natural pollinators to come and then pick at them. They’ll deposit the seeds elsewhere.

You shouldn’t collect the seeds because they’re highly toxic and not worth the risk. While the seeds can be saved for next season, it’s safer to just buy another packet or propagate through cuttings.

This is much easier than starting from seed and will get you a head start.

Virginia creeper seeds have a low germination rate by default, so why make it difficult on yourself?

Overwintering

This plant needs no special overwintering care if you’re in zones 3-10.

It can tolerate temperature dips below 0F, so yeah, it’s quite hardy.

If you’re growing it outside of these zones, you can supplement some mulch around the root system to help insulate it from the cold. Otherwise, no special care is needed for Virginia creeper.

Cut back the spent flowers and leaves before the winter. This will help reduce the possibility of pests or pathogens. It’s a very hardy perennial that should have zero issues with the winter.

The foliage will die back on its own but it’ll come back vibrant later on. So don’t worry about how your VC turns brown and drops its leaves. It’s just going dormant for a bit.

Companion plants

Virginia creeper clings to everything, so you’ll need something that it can’t climb on and then choke. For most setups, you should avoid planting it with other plants and just let it grow on its own.

It’ll snake around plants and then stunt their growth, which is why they should be grown in isolation unless you’re going to be prudent about pruning.

You could try pairing Virginia creeper with Helianthus, which can grow up to 7 feet tall. Another option is Digitalis, which can tolerate some of the VC’s damage.

Otherwise, just let your creeper creep on its own. Fences, trellises, or your outdoor shed.

Some other choices to pair with Virginia creeper include:

• Poison ivy
• Kudzu

Don’t plant with

This plant shouldn’t be planted with most other plants because it’ll get entangled.

You should avoid planting with other garden plants, even with other Virginia creepers. This plant will need plenty of space to grow. Consider removing most of your creeper if you want to grow other plants.

Growing indoors

Virginia creeper shouldn’t be grown indoors. Not saying you can’t, but it’s not practical.

Do you have 25-50 feet of space for it to grow?

While it’ll likely adapt to shady conditions indoors and grow in your house, it’s going to crawl on your furniture, pillars, and more. The only time it should be indoors is during germination.

Growing in containers

This plant can be grown in containers, but it won’t be as lush and colorful as you hope for it to be.

However, the benefit of growing Virginia creeper in containers is that you can move it around accordingly.

For instance, put it in full sun then move it to partial if needed to optimize its production. But on the other hand, once it starts to become established by climbing on random objects in its vicinity, you can’t do much moving afterward.

It’ll be hard to clip off all the suckers that have pierced into porous objects. So you should assume that even if you’re growing in a container you won’t be moving it around much.

When choosing a container, use one that’s at least wide enough to support the plant’s roots, or else it’ll stunt itself.

The container should have multiple drainage holes with loose soil that won’t compact. Remember that this plant can grow up to 50 feet in any direction, so your container won’t be able to hold the stems.

It should be at least 18 inches wide and the same depth to give you a good size to work with. Choose something that’s made of plastic or metal so the tendrils don’t stick to it.

Use a layer of pebbles at the bottom of the container so it doesn’t clump.

Place it on a plant roller because these suckers get heavy once watered.

VC grown in pots won’t have the same colorful leaves.

They also won’t be as resilient to temperature changes and won’t have abundant growth as soil-sown ones. The roots will be susceptible to harm from sudden temperature swings as well, especially if the material isn’t good at holding heat or if your container is small.

This vine plant should be put where it has room to grow. Use a larger container. You also need to water it much more often because container-grown plants dry out quicker.

Growing Virginia creeper in pots is cool because you can shape it with plant supports.

It also makes it neater and tidier to keep it trimmed back. You can use the rim of the container as its territory to keep it looking good!

Pests

P. quinquefolia is hardy to everything, pests included. But there are some bugs that just can’t keep their mouthparts off those large, gorgeous five fingered ivy leaves on VC.

Because of that, you may come across the following insects in your garden:

• Beetles are a known pest of Virginia creeper. They focus on the tender, young foliage that’s easy to chew on so they can digest it without issue. Beetles can be remedied by manually removing them (with PPE), soapy water, sticky traps, or diatomaceous earth.
• Scale are a white fuzz that can stick to the stems or leaves of VC. They can be difficult to remove due to their white webbing they form. Soapy water (1 tablespoon dish soap to 1 cup of water) can be effective in peeling them off. Other hobbyists have reported that spraying rubbing alcohol can also kill the scale.
• Prune off infested parts of your VC that have visible scale.
• Leafhoppers may show up on the leaf surfaces. These guys extract plant sap from the leaves and will cause them to wilt or drop. They can be controlled in the same manner as any other surface pest. Their damage causes the leaves to turn brown or yellow over time. They’re also confused with aphids because of their shape.
• Caterpillars love to chew on VC. These guys eat the foliage overnight so when you wake up, you wonder what happened to all your leaves! They eat in groups and can be extremely dangerous to younger plants. Thankfully, there are a bunch of different products on the market you can buy to eliminate them. Look for something that’s organic or natural. Use as directed. Insecticidal soap can be effective for caterpillars.
• Other common Virginia creeper pests include aphids, mites, spider mites, and whiteflies. Some wildlife may also munch on the leaves, but are generally harmless.

You may find squirrels, cattle, deer, mice, skunks, or birds hovering nearby.

Diseases

Virginia creeper is vulnerable to some pathogens, but the most common is leaf spot, powdery mildew, or other fungal issues.

These can be controlled by limiting your watering, pruning, and using a fungicide to kill the viruses. Space your plants accordingly and cut them back to prevent the foliage from getting too dense.

Usage scenarios

Virginia creeper is commonly used for plant cover, whether it’s clinging to fences or as a privacy hedge.

If you let it go wild, it can damage surfaces and even peel paint off with its suckers.

This vine plant is good for bringing in wildlife or covering up areas of your garden that are bare or void. The lush green foliage can easily cover up ugly fences or buildings. Trellises or lattices can also help keep it tidy.

The abundance of leaves can bring in wildlife as well if you want to make your garden look wilder. It can be used for soil erosion on hillsides too. Virginia creeper can grow in a vast set of environments from woodlands to lakesides.

It’s really one of the most versatile perennial vine plants in existence. Easy to grow, super hardy, and cheap to care for. Just keep it tidy, and clean, and give it some water. That’s about all the care you need for established VCs.

Types of Virginia creeper

There are many cultivars in the community, but here are the popular ones:

• Variegata (yellow and white leaves in the spring, pink leaves in the fall, variegated, compact, good for smaller gardens, less vigorous, yellow/white variegation, changes to pink in the fall, big leaves)
• Troki (nice red fall color, good for leaf cover, will easily grab onto buildings)
• Yellow Wall (gold color, good for walls or fences, can be paired with Troki for complementary colors)
• Monham (green leaves with smaller size, white speckles, changes to pink in fall)
• Engelman (small leaves, compact size, easily clings to buildings, bronze color streaks in the fall, less vigorous)

You may find other imported varieties on the market. They generally have increased resistance to pests. VC can be purchased from your local garden center, nursery, or online if you have none nearby. It’s not hard to find in native zones.

Commonly asked questions about Virginia creeper care

This section includes some questions we get from readers regarding VC care.

You may find your unanswered questions answered here. If not, please use the form at the end of this page to post your questions.

When should I cut back Virginia creeper?

Cut back Virginia creeper in the winter to help prevent pests from eating up the leaves as they drop off. Spent flowers should be cut back as well as damaged or ugly foliage.

Is Virginia creeper destructive?

Yes, VC can easily choke other plants nearby if you let it. This is why it needs to be kept under tabs and pruned regularly. In some areas, it’s considered to be invasive. So be careful where you plant it.

Is it tolerant to drought?

Yes, once established, it can tolerate periods of little to no water. This can allow it to flourish even when there’s no rain. Warmer zones should have no issue up to zone 10.

Further reading/references

These handy resources may be useful for you:

• Virginia Creeper, Parthenocissus quinquefolia – WISC
• Virginia Creeper: A Plant I’ve Grown to Hate – ANR Blogs

Don’t get creeped out by Virginia creepers!

Virginia creeper is an excellent low maintenance perennial vine perfect for those that don’t have all day to take care of their plants.

It basically grows itself once you get it going. It doesn’t care about the soil type, soil pH, or even whether you have partial shade or full sun. It can even grow in drought and tolerate temperature dips to below zero. This vine plant is resilient, colorful, grows quickly, and it doesn’t ask for much in return.

Get some VC going in your garden to get that changing seasonal color and perfect ground cover with its dense leaves, lengthy stems, and nice fall tones.

What do you think? Do you have any questions about how to care for Virginia creepers? Post them in the comments form below and let me know!

If you’ve had experience with VC before, share some tips/suggestions with other readers to help ‘em out!

The post How to Grow Virginia Creeper (Beginner’s Care Sheet) appeared first on Gardenisms.

(Antelope Valley, anyone?)

California poppy, the state flower of CA, is one of the few plants that can be adapted to nearly any garden even across the US.

Those just may be California poppies!

These perennial flowers create amazing fields of flowers on grassy hillsides or mountains. It really makes it look like you’re in the wild!

You can now take some of this wild and bring it into your garden. California poppies are easy to grow and require very little care.

They’re also drought-tolerant and hardy to nearly everything. They can adapt to your garden’s conditions provided you’re not too outside of the hardiness zones.

What do you think? Sounds interesting? Let’s dive right in so we can learn about how to grow and care for California poppies.

Last updated: 8/27/22.

Quick care guide: California poppy

What’s a California poppy?

The California poppy is California’s native version of the infamous poppy flower! What else is there to know, right?

California poppies are known for their bright, cherry petals that grow all over the grassy hillsides of CA.

Poppies can be orange, yellow, or red. They can even be hybrids that combine these colors into an awesome blend of hybridized flowers.

Regardless of which color you like, you’ll be astounded by the reflective petals of these flowers in your garden. Driving over fields out in rural CA is breathtaking.

But once you plant them in your own garden, you’ll be able to harness that flourish of dazzling color. Once you see how bright those petals are on a sunny day, you’ll know what I mean!

The California poppy, Eschscholzia californica, is beginner-friendly and easy to grow. Once you sow them in your garden, they’ll come back every season. It’s a perennial so you can get year after year of that nice, bright color.

Believe it or not, many species in the wild depend on the poppy for their source of food or habitat. This wildflower helps bring in wildlife, especially bees like honeybees, bumblebees, or sweat bees. It also attracts deer, butterflies, herbivores, omnivores, and other pollinators into your garden.

Once you get a lot of them going, you can really transform your garden into a wild habitat.

Types of California poppy

Unlike a lot of other wildflowers, E. californica only has two subspecies to choose from.

This can make your decisions a lot easier rather than having to choose from dozens of different types. The two species are:

• Californica
• Mexicana

The only difference is where they’re located natively. Mexicana is found in the Sonoran desert. Californica is found in a lot more places.

Mexicana is generally yellow with lighter shades and a smaller receptacle rim below the petals. Californica is larger with shades of orange and has darker coloration.

There are cultivars within each group.

Whichever one you choose, you can’t go wrong.

California poppies aren’t only found in California though. This wildflower is home to Nevada, Arizona, Oregon, Washington, New Mexico, Sonora, Baja California, and of course California.

It grows in hillsides, woodlands, valleys, meadows, coastal dunes, plains, outskirts, deserts, forests, and even by the roadside.

If you’ve ever seen pretty colorful flowers poking out from a near-dry bush by the road, it could be California poppy! Up in the Antelope Valley there’s a HUGE poppy field that spans endlessly. This is a tourist attraction because of how amazing it is.

Why should I grow it?

Why not? It’s a hardy, beautiful flowering perennial that requires very little care.

It’s good for beginners that are looking to get into the hobby but haven’t earned their green thumb badge yet.

California poppy helps bring color to your garden, attracts wildlife, and can take care of itself even in dry conditions which any desert native knows how it’s like.

How to propagate California poppy

California poppy is super easy to start from seed.

You can buy a packet of poppy seeds for cheap at your local nursery or online (see Amazon).

Be sure to read the packet so you get the right cultivar for your hardiness zone. Propagation by seed is highly recommended because you get the most flower for your buck.

Purchasing in flats where you just get a few plants per flat is expensive with the benefit of skipping the germination period. But I think if you start from seed, you’ll find it much more rewarding!

Starting from seed

Get your packet of seeds and wait for the temperatures to remain stable. The outside temperatures should be at least 60F on the low end. But temperatures above 80F will be too high.

So look for an average temperature between the two extremes. Either way, you’re not going to control the weather so just plant when the forecast looks OK.

Sow seeds directly into your garden. The plot you choose for the California poppies should be planted in full sun with rich soils that are well-draining.

Soils that are chock full of nutrients are perfect since these flowers will drink it up quickly. If you’re literally in the desert with minimal water to spare, you can plant in partial sun.

Yes, it can grow in partial shade, but it won’t thrive.

It’s a light-loving plant. But too much light will burn it. California natives should be OK with just planting in full sun without issue.

The spot you choose should be wide enough to accommodate their expanse. Poppies are wide when fully grown, so you need to make sure that plants nearby won’t get shrouded by them.

Sow seeds in early spring for summer blooms that last until early autumn.

Seeds can be scattered into the soil. There’s no need to dig out holes for each seed. Just grab a bunch of seeds then randomly scatter them into the dirt. This makes for that randomness, full look of flowers EVERYWHERE.

But if you want a more controlled and tidier-looking garden, then consider sowing them carefully in rows or plots.

This can give you a sense of control in your garden if you dislike the whole “wildflower” thing. Plant each poppy seed about 0.25 inches deep and cover it with soil.

Space each seed 5 inches apart to allow for root extension. If rain is expected before germination, cover the seeds with soil rather than scatter planting. This will help them stay in place from rain or wind.

Water generously so the soil is moist, but not wet. Provide them with watering once or twice a week until they sprout.

If the seeds start to rot or flow down the water stream, it needs more soil to hold them in place. When watering, use a watering can. Do NOT use a hose or you’ll blow them out of the water.

California poppies can also be started indoors using seed starter kits, but it’s often more work because moving a dozen poppies to the garden soil is a tasking experience.

So I suggest just sowing directly into the garden unless your zone is experiencing some weird weather.

Poppy also doesn’t like to be moved once it’s established, so you may want to consider starting in a greenhouse or just waiting until the temperatures are warm enough.

You can also grow in containers if you wish. Use a pot that’s at least 12 inches wide with at least 10 inches of depth.

It’s possible to grow multiple California poppies in the same pot, but give each one at least 10 inches of space (wide). Use a moist, well-draining potting mix. Sow each seed 0.25” deep with 5” of space.

Note that once you start germinating them in their pot, don’t move them later. They get plant shock easily.

When sown correctly, most poppies will germinate within 14-21 days. Keep the soil moist and watch for rot. If it’s dry, use a humidity dome to preserve the water from evaporating too quickly. Blooms can be expected within 50-75 days, but it depends on sunlight, water, soil quality, temperature, and more.

Seedlings can be thinned by at least 5 inches in height.

Thin the smallest, weakest seedlings from the bunch by gently uprooting them. Thin to 10 inches apart. While you may wanna keep them all, it’s important to thin to avoid crowding.

How to grow California poppy

This section covers some general guidelines on how to grow and care for California poppies. Depending on which poppy type you have, your care needs will vary.

Use these guidelines as a general care sheet so you know what’s in store for you in terms of poppy care. If you have questions, you can post them in the comments section at the end of this guide.

Hardiness zone

California poppies are hardy in USDA zones 5-10. If you’re outside of these zones, that’s OK. You can still grow it even in cooler or warmer zones as annuals.

These plants can be perennials or annuals depending on the environment. They’re not fussy about their growing conditions, so you don’t need to be precise with these guys.

They’re extremely adaptable to most environments and will thrive when basic TLC is provided. You may have seen them growing randomly on the hillsides through rural areas.

They’re a significant habitat wildflower for native pollinators like sweat bees, bumblebees, or mining bees. Animals, birds, and other wildlife will eat the seeds as a food source. Poppy pollen is loved by bees and birds.

Butterflies, moths, and other insects will feed on the pollen too. So if you want these beneficial pollinators in your garden (perhaps your other plants can use some help getting fertilized), then you’re on the right track.

California poppy is also drought-tolerant and helps control erosion on hillsides. So not only does it bring in beneficial wildlife, but it can also help you out.

Soil

Use a well-draining, fertile soil that’s rich in organic matter. California poppies will do well in lean soils that are chock full of nutrients.

If growing in containers, use a potting mix dedicated for just that. If growing in the garden, use high-quality garden soil for that.

Poppy plants love themselves some lean soil that’s light and loamy. This lets them expand their root systems outward to grow the flower.

Well-draining soil that’s sandy will do excellent for this herbaceous perennial. Poor soil can even be adaptable. Drip irrigation is recommended for heavy soils, such as those on hillsides, sandy plains, or other grasslands.

Poppy soil pH

California poppies do well in slightly acidic to alkaline soils. It has a pH range of 5.5-8.0, so it’s well tolerant to shifting pH levels.

This allows gardeners that have acidic and basic (alkaline) soils to grow it. Not many plants can do that. This is one of the few that has tolerance for both sides of the pH spectrum.

Acidic to neutral is ideal for optimal blossoms because it’s what is found in the natives.

Seed spacing

Seeds can be scattered one seed per 3 inches for proper germination, then thinned later.

If garden sowing, space each plant 4-5 inches apart. If scatter sowing, sow 20 seeds per square foot for a nice, dense plant cover.

Seed depth

Plant poppy seeds up to a half-inch deep.

Scattering seeds also works. If germination doesn’t happen in 2-3 weeks, replant with less depth per seed.

When planting close to the soil line, be sure to not blast them with a hose, or else the seeds will be washed away with the water runoff. Don’t forget the rain too.

Temperature

California poppies prefer temperatures that are moderate. Temperatures between 50-75F are ideal for proper growth and flowering.

They can tolerate temp dips as low as 15F and be OK if it’s not prolonged. But if temperatures remain this low, they may enter dormancy.

Use a few inches of mulch to help insulate the plants from dormancy, but remove it when temperatures pick back up or else you may overheat your poppies.

If temperatures are too high, the plant can tolerate it, but it may stunt blossoms or even cause poppies to enter dormancy until it cools down.

When temperatures are too low, they’ll stop blossoming as well as it signals winter. If your zone is averaging around these temp ranges, then you’re good to go.

If not, you can make adjustments to maintain it such as adding mulch if cold or pulsating in partial shade if too hot.

Humidity

Humidity should be moderate to low. If it’s too high, it can be prone to rot or fungal issues.

Regular watering should be enough to keep the humidity level where it needs to be.

These are desert natives where there isn’t much humidity. There’s no need to keep it sky-high.

Water at the base of the plant, not the leaves or blooms because this can pose an infection of bugs or pathogens.

If humidity is too high, you can prune the leaves to dial it back a bit. This will help with evaporation.

Fertilizer

Poppy will benefit from regular dosing of fertilizer. Work in a 3-inch layer of vegetable compost or manure with some soil conditioner to help increase the nutrient profile.

Some organic supplements include bonemeal or liquid plant food. Look for something that has an NPK ratio of 10-10-10 so it’s balanced.

Poppies may also like 5-10-10 for more blooms. If your poppy is leggy and has too many leaves but not enough blossoms, get something with less nitrogen.

Watering

California poppies require very little water once they establish themselves. These are desert natives so they know how to thrive with minimal rainfall.

Give them about 0.5 inches of water per week until the plant is fully grown. Then reduce to just 1 inch per 2-3 weeks, depending on local conditions.

If you notice drooping, wilting, or other signs of lack of water, then increase watering by 0.5 inches per week or so until it’s fixed.

California poppy thrives off rainfall in the wild, so regular watering will likely be too much for this perennial wildflower.

There’s no hard and fast rule for this. If it’s hot, then water more. If it’s cold or rainy, then water less. Common sense, right?

People overcomplicate things because they want a rule of thumb that works in every scenario. This doesn’t exist for watering plants!

These are excellent for drought-tolerant xeriscapes. Sporadic rainfall is what they’re accustomed to in the wild during their active growth period. If you’re not getting rain during the summer, then use your watering can.

If you’re paranoid about making sure your poppies are getting enough water, then consider getting a water meter for your soil (check Amazon).

Other signs that they need water include drooping, yellowing, or scorching. But this doesn’t happen even with minimal rainfall. Think about the desert.

How often does it rain in California? Poppies will get all the water they need from rainfall.

Sunlight

Provide your poppies with at least 6-8 hours of full sun per day. This is what they’re used to in those flower fields up in the valley.

If you’re in zones 6-10, this native wildflower will do just fine. Direct sun will help encourage blooms.

Poppies grown in shady conditions will look more rugged with leggy growth.

They’re also less likely to produce those pretty blooms and will have fewer blooms with smaller petals. California poppies will grow quickest and have the biggest flowers in direct sunlight.

This is why they’re a native of CA where it’s sunny 99% of the time! (Kinda serious.)

Flowering

The bloom time for California poppies is around the middle of February or mid-March. The blooms will remain in place until May.

Poppies will generally bloom for 10 weeks with 3 peak weeks between March and April. This varies depending on the temperature, rainfall, and other local conditions.

It’s hard to keep California poppies blooming beyond this period. They don’t bloom all summer.

But will rebloom every season as they’re naturally perennials. Note that California poppies aren’t good for groomed gardens.

They’re not pretty after they bloom, so people tend to deadhead them rather than let them sit there ragged and jagged like they just woke up.

Have you ever seen a poppy field in the autumn? It’s quite spooky.

They get weedy post-bloom so they’re not something you wanna keep around. Trim them back or deadhead them to encourage flowers to bloom next season.

Pruning

This plant requires very little care once you get it going.

When it builds strong roots, it can withstand drought, wind, rain, and even depletion of nutrients. However, it’ll benefit from cutting off the spent flowers.

Deadhead you poop regularly to encourage more blooms in the season. Wildlife gardeners will tell you about how little care they need. It’s often ideal to NOT disturb them.

So try to let them do their thing. Prune off spent foliage. Cut off flowers or leaves that are extending to areas you don’t want them to be. But sometimes, it’s nice to see it grow like crazy.

Overwintering

California poppies can be shielded by putting a layer of mulch if you’re in a cooler zone.

This can help them withstand the cold for those in zones 6 or 7. Mulching with a layer of organic mulch or chopped leaves with grass cuttings will do. Mulch to 3-4 inches deep.

Remove the mulch in the spring. Don’t let the mulch touch the stem of the plant. Leave a small clearing. This can help stop rot or fungus.

This plant will winterize itself and enter dormancy if left alone. If you’re in a warmer zone, there’s nothing you need to do. The plant’s roots are safe under the soil. It’ll even reseed itself.

Depending on where you live, you can sow in late summer and then move them out in early fall to overwinter and then flower in the springtime.

But for those of us in warmer climates, California poppies need no overwintering for the winter. That’s how easy it is to care for!

Pests

While California poppy is generally resilient to insects, wicked ones may be vulnerable to insects or pathogens.

Some common bugs that’ll attack your poppies include thrips, aphids, whiteflies, hoplia beetles, spittlebugs, snails, slugs, or leafhoppers.

Since these are “wildlife” plants, you can expect “wildlife” to come to find them. Thankfully, most pests on this list can be controlled by using insecticides.

If you want a natural approach, try using dish soap spray and then wiping with a sponge. Dish soap can be mixed with regular water in a 1:10 ratio.

Some pests can be removed simply by spraying them off with a hose. Pruning off infested parts and then monitoring for insects. Other bugs can also be controlled by natural predators like birds, which love this plant.

Diseases

California poppy is generally hardy to plant issues, but weakened ones that have been poorly raised will be vulnerable to diseases.

Some of the most common poppy issues include downy mildew, powdery mildew, gray mold, fusarium wilt, verticillium wilt, and general mold or fungal problems.

These diseases generally stem from overwatering or high humidity. When water pools because of poor drainage, it can raise humidity and then give your plants wet feet.

This is inviting for pathogens that will cause these problems.

Never overwater your plants! Use well-draining soil. Water the base of the plant only. Not the leaves. Fungi can infect your leaves and make them turn color or powdery white. Myecila may be present.

Spores will grow on the leaves or stems. Some mildew caused by the Golovinomyces orntoii fungi can make a powdery white look on the leaves.

Some mildews don’t need high humidity to thrive. Even temperatures between 60-80F are enough to foster powdery mildew to suffice.

Gray or brown spots on stems or leaves are signs of Botrytis cinerea, which is a key fungus in mold problems. They’re more active when temperatures are warmer.

Your poppy may be covered with gray fuzzy mold. Prune them off and then use a fungicide carefully. Read the directions before you use it.

Other mildew like downy mildew which comes from Peronospora sparsa comes from too much water. It’s white and shows up on the leaf bottoms.

When it’s wet/humid outside, it’s perfect for the fungus. Reduce watering. Use a fungicide. Prune off infected foliage immediately.

Companion plants

California poppy has a lot of friends it can grow with. Poppies pair well with flowering plants that have contrasting colors.

It can also be used with taller plants as a foreground plant or a background plant. The flowers shoot out from the bunch so it looks eye-catching. You really can’t go wrong with it.

Here are some ideas to companion plant with the California poppy:

• Globe gilia
• Baby blue eyes
• Lupines
• Petunias
• Corn poppies
• Flowering tobacco
• Gomphrena
• Celosia
• Iceland
• Cornflower
• Baby’s breath
• Sylvia
• Zinnia
• Globe amaranth
• Alpine
• Lisianthus
• Dahlia
• Nicotiana
• Cosmos
• Sunflowers
• Sweet peas
• Borage
• Lavender
• Russel lupins
• Hosta
• Marigolds

Don’t plant with

There aren’t many plants that you can’t plant with poppies, but some will hinder the growth of both plants. Here are some plants you should avoid putting next to poppies:

• Vegetables (unlike garden veggies which require high fertility soil, poppies thrive in the opposite low fertility soil)
• Roses (poppies can choke roses)
• Other poppies (don’t plant poppies too close together or they’ll compete for nutrients)

These plants grow in western California up to 6500 feet in open areas or the grasslands of the US. So think of other plants that grow in these conditions.

Saving poppy seeds

California poppy seeds can be collected and then saved for the next season. If you’re growing poppies as annuals, then this ensures you’ll have some to plant next year.

That way, you don’t have to keep going to the store to buy more seeds or plants. This plant is very productive in the seed department.

The seeds are located in the seed pods (how convenient). You’ll know when to harvest when the pods turn brown or when the veins show up on the pods. Each pod can produce up to 100 seeds each! That’s 100 poppies for next season.

Harvesting

Harvest the seeds by gently pinching off the seed pods. Collect them when they turn light brown. There should be some visible pod veins on the sides.

Get a bucket or something to contain them. Then gently pick them off by twisting them. Do NOT pull on them to remove the pods. This may damage your plants.

When you’re done harvesting, put the container somewhere safe. The seed pods will sprout on their own.

Remove the empty seed pods then save the seeds in a mason jar or other airtight vessel to keep them from spoiling. Store seeds at room temperature out of direct light. Seeds will be fertile up until next season.

Growing poppies in pots

Poppies can be grown in containers, but you must provide adequate space per plant. Each plant will need at least 5 inches of space between one another.

Use well-draining, high-quality potting mix supplemented with some soil amendment to help increase the nutrient content. The container should be wide enough to accommodate all of them so they get enough room to grow their roots. Don’t just focus on the width.

If your container is too small, your plants will suffer. The plants may fail to bloom or have very few blossoms. The flowers may also be smaller with weedy foliage.

If the roots start coming out of the drainage holes, it’s time to get a bigger planter. Poppies don’t’ like to be uprooted, so you may as well just harvest the seeds and then replant them in a larger container for next season.

Container-grown plants need more watering and fertilizer compared to garden-sown plants. They also grow smaller and produce fewer flowers in general. But you get the benefit of moving it around anywhere you want.

Not enough sun? Put it directly under it. Cold night? Bring it inside your house.

Growing poppy indoors

Poppies will not grow indoors well.

The conditions in a household are just not optimal for proper growth. You don’t get enough light for them to prosper unless you’re using a powerful grow light.

It’s also definitely not enough space to enjoy that wildflower field thing.

Unless you’re rich with an indoor garden, chances are you’ll likely want to keep your California poppy outside in the natural environment.

Usage scenarios

There are so many different ways to put poppies to use that it’s just too difficult to list everything.

People use poppies for a variety of purposes including bringing birds, bees, moths, deer, wildlife, and other animals to their garden.

It’s so easy to put into your garden to instantly spruce it up.

Whether you’re looking for some more color, or just want to create that wild feel, poppies are excellent choices.

They can help improve the look of meadows or woodlands as well if you’ve got some acreage. They also can help control erosion when planted on hillsides or sloped surfaces like ranches.

With their bright blooms and compact size, they can also be used in pots or as border plants.

How to care for California poppy

This section covers some frequently asked questions that we get from readers. You may find what you’re looking for here.

Didn’t find it? Use the form at the end of this page to post your questions! This perennial is so simple to care for that you don’t even need a green thumb!

How long do California poppies take to grow?

California poppies are quick growers. They only take about 14-21 days to germinate from seed.

Then they take about 50-75 to start budding and producing those gorgeous yellow flowers we all know and love. Once the blooming period is over, they’ll die back on their own for the winter dormancy.

You can harvest the seeds during this time for next season.

If you’re growing poppies annually, you’ll want to do this so you don’t need to keep buying them every season from the local nursery near you.

Is it illegal to grow California poppies?

No, it’s perfectly legal to grow California poppies. There lies confusion between growing or picking the California poppy because it’s the state flower of California.

While it’s illegal to pick flowers from state preservations/reserves, it’s fine to buy a pack of seeds and plant it yourself. This is not legal advice. Do your research.

Can I just scatter poppy seeds?

Yes, you can just scatter seeds all over your garden, but choose locations that receive enough sunlight to foster germination.

A rate of 20 seeds per square foot is a good enough amount. Thin the plants to the strongest few every 5 inches upon sprouting.

Can I grow poppies in my yard?

Yes, you can grow California poppies in your yard. It’s legal despite all the confusing rep it gets. There’s nothing wrong with growing California poppies for the sake of gardening and just enjoying the view.

Do you need to cut back California poppies?

It’s not required, but trimming the plant’s flowers back after they’re spent is good practice. It helps encourage blooms by refocusing the plant’s energy to produce more flowers.

Trimming can also help it get ready to grow again next season, stop pests, and eliminate pathogens. Cut back and deadhead poppies after they’re done flowering.

Some people cut them back to the soil line to encourage new foliage or blooms.

Putting some fertilizer after you cut it back will help rebloom next season. Trimming poppies after they bloom is in your interest.

Note that poppies will close up when it’s overcast, raining, or nighttime. This behavior protects the flowers from damage.

How many colors of California poppies are there?

There are many colors that span across pink, yellow, white, red, and orange. There are also hybrids that combine the colors.

How tall do poppies grow?

California poppies grow up to 18 inches in the wild. In captivity, they generally reach around 12 inches, depending on local conditions like the soil quality, watering, plant food, crowding, sunlight, etc.

How wide do poppies get?

California poppies can grow up to 18 inches wide, so they’re just about as tall as they are wide. They’re relatively compact so you can plant a bunch in your garden to make it look fuller. Or you can keep them tidy and organized if you wish.

Further reading/references

These resources can be handy for more info on CA poppies:

Poppies – Stanford

Eschscholzia californica – Wikipedia

Grow California poppy in your garden

Congrats, friend. You know the basics of how to grow and care for California poppies so you can enjoy that garden full of wildlife and wildflowers!

California poppies are a wild bunch that shows off a ton of color. Brightening up your garden has never been easier.

They’re easy to grow, easy to care for and look amazing in bunches when planted in proximity.

If you have questions about growing these poppies, just post them below using the comments form.

Or if you’ve grown these before and have some words of wisdom to share with other fellow readers, let us know!

The post How to Grow California Poppy (Beginner’s Care Guide) appeared first on Gardenisms.