How to Grow Cotoneaster From Cuttings or Seeds (Beginner’s Guide)

So, you want to grow some cotoneaster in your garden.

Are you drawn to those gorgeous red berries? Or perhaps the dense green foliage?

This perennial shrub can be everything from plant cover to a privacy hedge.

You’ll see that it’s extremely versatile and wonder why you didn’t plant it earlier.

Let’s dive in and learn about cotoneaster care.

Last updated: 2/28/23.

Quick care guide: Cotoneaster

Plant type Perennial
Origin Europe, Asia, Africa
Scientific name/family Cotoneaster
Other names
Soil type Well-draining, acidic, alkaline, loose, high-quality, organic
Soil pH 5-8
Sunlight requirement Full sun
Bloom season Summer (leaves), winter (berries)
Colors White, pink, green, red, orange, blue
Max height 20 feet
Max width 6 feet
Temperature 40-60F
Humidity Low
Watering requirements Often during first year until established roots and hot days, reduce during winter
Fertilizer requirements Very low (20-20-20 or 10-5-5), use organic compost, manure, or leaves to supplement
Days until germination 1-2 years (from seed)
Days until bloom Many years (from seed), 1-3 growing seasons (from cuttings)
Speed of growth Very slow
Hardiness zones 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
Plant depth 3 times diameter of root ball
Plant spacing 5-6 feet
Propagation Seed, cuttings
Common pests Scale, mites, aphids, spider mites, caterpillars, webworms, sawfly
Common diseases Fire blight, leaf spots, mildew, leaf crumpler
Beginner friendly Yes
Care level Low
Uses Decoration, color, centerpiece, bonsai, indoor plant, outdoor plant, soil erosion preventer, fence plant, trellis plant, wildlife attractant, privacy hedge, plant cover, border/pathway plant

What exactly is cotoneaster?

A homegrown cotoneaster bush with berries in the winter.
Cotoneaster has signature berries that resemble winter berries.

Cotoneaster is a shrub that produces signature red berries, similar to the look of winter hollyberries.

The benefit of cotoneaster is that it produces these gorgeous berry fruits in just 3 seasons, so you can quickly add some decor or color to your garden and not have to wait forever for it to bear fruit.

The berries are technically called “pomes.” They’re usually a dark shade of red, but can be as bright as a cranberry in terms of color.

The pomes perfectly complement the plant’s natural lime green leaves and flowers. The foliage range from green to pink to white petals that produce the berries.

For anyone who wants a low maintenance plant that attracts a wide variety of wildlife (like birds), cotoneaster is an excellent choice.

What does cotoneaster look like?

Cotoneaster has a distinct appearance mainly because of the red berries.

Other than the pomes, they also have many different colors they can show off in their leaves and foliage- crimson, orange, yellow, scarlet, and white.

This particular plant can be both deciduous or evergreen and produces enough color for your eyes to appreciate in just a few seasons.

Sure, the pomes are the highlight of the plant, but it’s the background foliage that complements the berries.

The plant is a short and bushy shrub that can be used as a small hedge or barrier plant requiring very low maintenance due to its hardy nature.

You really don’t need to do much to keep cotoneaster thriving. It’s a workhorse.

The leaves are smooth and not jagged. They can be a variety of different shapes- from oval-shaped to round shaped.

The shrubs are dimorphic with extra lengthy branches that hold all those numerous berries- this is why they need those thick branches. The flowers stem offshoots that stem from the branches.

So you have these long branches that need to support berries, short shoots, and flowers all at once. That’s why they’re thick and sturdy.

As for color, you have plenty of options.

Depending on the cultivar you choose, the color can range from orange, green, maroon, white, pink, cream, red, and more.

Colors generally show up in the early summer in the flowers, followed by the berries.

Each plant produces up to 100 flowers around the summertime and attracts many different beneficial insects, bees, and birds to the garden.

Then, the berries come out in the fall which is the spotlight of the entire bloom cycle.

Is cotoneaster a perennial?

Cotoneaster is a perennial shrub and looks very similar to holly berry or hawthorns.

They come back every year if kept properly and don’t need to be constantly replanted in the garden.

Because of their hardy nature, they’re sort of a “set and forget” type of plant- would you want to constantly be replanting your hedges over and over in your yard?

Can you grow cotoneaster from cuttings?

Cotoneaster grown from stem cuttings.
Cotoneaster can be grown from cuttings and it’s a lot faster than planting from seed.

Yes, you can grow and propagate cotoneaster from cuttings. It’s preferred over starting from seed because seeds take forever with a low germination rate.

Cuttings are quick and have a higher chance to root, which means you can transplant the cotoneaster into your garden and enjoy the summer colors faster than starting from seed.

This guide covers both seed and cutting methods.

How fast does cotoneaster grow?

Cotoneaster is a rapidly growing plant that thrives in full sun conditions. It doesn’t need anything other than a lot of sunlight and water.

Even in drought conditions with no plant food, cotoneaster will still grow.

This perennial shrub is considered to be invasive in many countries, including the US. So that’s good for you- it grows quickly even if you don’t take care of it.

So it’ll continue to forgive rookie mistakes in the garden and thrive even in suboptimal conditions. This makes it a good plant for beginners that want a privacy hedge or bush with plenty of berries to brighten up the yard.

How do I start cotoneaster?

They can be started from seed or cuttings.

The seed will take many years to finally start a primary stem while cuttings will establish themselves by the next growing season (spring). If you want the fastest results, then stick with cuttings.

Seeds can be rewarding, but they’re not for the impatient garden.

And many newbie gardeners tend to want to see sprouts immediately, which isn’t the case for cotoneaster. It takes time to start from seed.

What are they good for?

Cotoneaster berries.
Privacy, fencing, soil erosion prevention- the plant is extremely versatile.

Cotoneaster can be used as a complimentary bush to fences and borders, pathing, hedges, foundations, wall linings, or for plant coverage in the garden.

They can help add shade to keep the garden cooler and also prevent erosion on sloped surfaces.

Cotoneaster is a versatile shrub that is extremely easy to grow and can even be planted in containers. The red berries that emerge in the autumn can also add plenty of color to your garden with their eye-catching color and high numbers.

This plant is hardy, tough, and tolerant of beginner mistakes.

There are many different types of them and they can be used for a variety of different purposes with your choice of evergreen or deciduous shrubs.

Pink and white flowers with green leaves and red berries all around. They grow all over the US, but USDA hardiness zones 5-8 are the most successful as it matches their native profile.

Some cotoneaster plants are good for low ground coverage as they grow horizontally and offer plenty of foliage for soil surfaces. Others are tall and can top heights of 25 feet.

They can be pruned and tried to shape and size to suit your needs.

Are the berries poisonous?

The berries are indeed toxic to humans, dogs, cats, and other animals when eaten, so avoid doing so. Wash your hands after handling or pruning the plant.

Although the tiny red berries may look appealing, they’re inedible and will cause a toxic reaction. Each berry is about 0.25” in diameter and contains a few seeds.

They stay on the branch until next year (from fall to spring).

Cotoneaster varieties

There are well over 250 different types of cotoneaster plant varieties and everything in between.

Because they can be crossbred, hybrids exist and new ones are being discovered over time.

Even though there are many different classifications of them, they’re all very similar in terms of care and basic TLC. This includes their soil type, sunlight requirements, water requirements, plant food, propagation, etc.

Types of cotoneaster

Here are some popular types of cotoneaster grown in the garden.

Bearberry

Good for ground cover with white flowers and red berries.

Traditional colorings with a bronze purple foliage in the autumn.

Doesn’t grow too tall and sticks to the ground. Good for gardens that have a lot of space and are bare.

Emerald Beauty

This strain features fire blight resistance and offers plenty of dense, green leaves.

The leaves are lustrous and green, which is where the emerald name comes from. The flowers are white and the berries are orange. This is a compact cotoneaster and is self-pruning, so for those who want a real low maintenance hedge, this is it.

Perfect for low cover with a max height of 24 inches and 3 feet width.

Emerald beauty can be grown in hardiness zones 5-9 and very hardy. It can also be grown in containers due to its low need for space.

Peking cotoneaster

Peking offers a splash of different colors including green, yellow, red, and orange.

The berries are purple with a rounded shape. The leaves are ovular with smoothed sides and dense foliage. Peking grows tall at 10 feet in height with a 6 feet width.

It can be used as a vertical climbing cotoneaster for fences and trellises or as a screen plant for hedging. It can also be trimmed to shape. Hardy in zones 3-7.

Hedge cotoneaster

C. Lucidus is good for screening hedges because of their 12 feet height.

Yes, this is a tall cotoneaster and perfect for hedging when trimmed and sheared to the right shape and size. The flowers are rounded with dark green, full cover.

Perfect for privacy or fenced gardens that have property lines.

Cranberry cotoneaster

Cranberry isn’t actually cranberry- let’s get that out of the way first.

This type gets its name from the bright red berries that are large and rounded displayed against the dense green leaves with plenty of cover. The berries cascade and offer a splash of color to any garden with gold, red, purple, and green.

The plant is self rooting and can be used to cover ground or as a low privacy hedge. Perfect for borders or pathing as well as erosion control.

Cranberry grows up to 36 inches and 6 feet across. It can be planted in hardiness zones 4-7.

This is my favorite one by far because of the classic berries.

Coral beauty

This is a perfect plant for ground cover and has pink berries with white flowers.

The leaves are green in the spring and turn to a bronze color in the autumn.

The overall size is compact, making it a good cotoneaster choice for smaller gardens. Perfect for plant cover at a size of 18 inches high and 6 feet wide. Does well in zones 6-10.

Some cultivars are excellent at branching out horizontally providing coverage for your garden’s bare spots. Others are good at climbing vertically which can be turned into hedge plants.

The branches tend to be most dense where they touch the soil’s surface and expand out from those points.

Cultivars that grow upright take the form of bushy, shrubs that can be shaped to look like anything you want. It’ll have a combination of red berries against a green blanket of foliage, which makes it easy to work into any landscaping scene.

Some other popular types worth a mention:

  • Franchetii
  • Rockspray
  • Dammeri
  • Salicifolius

How to plant cotoneaster

Cotoneaster has dense green foliage with bright berries.
These pretty berries will soon be yours.

Here are the general steps to grow and propagate cotoneaster from seed and cuttings.

Depending on the cultivar you’re planting, your needs may slightly vary.

However, these steps should give you a good idea of what to expect during the process.

When to plant

The best time to plant is in the early spring.

This is when new growth starts naturally in its seasonal cycles. If you’re growing in a container, you can start in the fall.

Cuttings should be started in the early spring after they’ve been successfully rooted over the winter.

Remember, you’re PLANTING the cotoneaster in the spring, but you’re preparing and rooting in the fall. Note that these are two different things.

Hardiness zone

Cotoneaster grows in zones 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8.

Some people have successfully propagated this plant in chilly zones like zone 3 due to its hardy nature.

Higher zones (such as 9) are also possible. If you live in any of these hardiness zones, you should be able to grow cotoneaster without issue. The hardest part is choosing which type you want to grow.

Prepping the seeds

Cotoneaster can be grown from seeds, but do you want to when you can grow from cuttings? Seeds take up to 2 years to fully germinate, so you’ll be waiting for a long time.

Who has time for that?

One of the main perks of growing a cotoneaster plant is that it grows quickly and fills out your garden with color in just 3 seasons- why wait for more than necessary?

But some people like planting straight from seed. It’s more rewarding in that manner. So if that’s your thing, I won’t judge.

Seeds can be harvested from ripe berries in the fall. If you have a friend or neighbor that already has ripened pomes, ask to harvest some of their berries and cut them open to collect the seeds.

Wear your PPE as the berries are toxic.

After harvesting the seeds, the next step is to expose them to cold.

Cotoneaster requires cold stratification for the seeds to properly germinate and sprout. In nature, the seeds are exposed to a few months of cold weather (winter) so they can sprout in the spring when temperatures pick back up. We need to emulate this behavior in the garden.

First, scar the seeds. Put some dirt, substrate, and rocks together in a small mixing bowl and put the seeds in there too. Then mix it so the seeds get scarred.

Place the seeds in some organic, well-draining compost and cover them with a thin layer of backfill. You can place them in containers and shelter them outside in a greenhouse or cold frame.

They need to stay outside throughout the cold winter to get the exposure they need. The soil should remain moist throughout the entire duration.

After the spring comes around, you can sow the seeds. The roots should be visible by the time you plant.

Planting from cuttings

Growing cotoneaster from cuttings is my preference because it’s a lot quicker to propagate and see the fruit of your efforts (no pun intended).

It’s also easier to do overall with a much higher success rate compared to germinating from seed (which could be a waste of time).

The method takes already established cotoneaster plants and cutting off sections that can be replanted on their own.

Depending on the type of plant you extract the cuttings from, you need to decide when is the right time to plant.

Evergreen cuttings should be cut in the late summer, while deciduous cuttings should be taken in midsummer.

Each cutting should be carefully extracted from the original plant with a pair of sterilized scissors or pruners. This is important because you don’t want any bacteria or fungus to get on the exposed part of the cutting, which can ruin your new plant entirely.

Cut about 6” of the stem. This stem should be new growth.

Trim off any leaves or flowers that are attached to it on the lower 30% of it. Leave some of the new growth foliage.

  • For evergreens, you’ll want to cut the hardwood stems.
  • For deciduous, you’ll want to cut the softwood stems.

The cut end that’s exposed will be planted in the soil. You can use some high-quality rooting hormone to encourage rooting in the new cutting.

There are many different types out there, but any basic powder or gel will do. Use as directed.

Grab a knife and gently scrape the bark around the exposed end about 1” up. The exposed plant flesh will allow the cutting to root properly.

Stick the cuttings into containers in the garden and water generously for the first time around.

Keep them out in the cold, but protected from the elements using a cold frame or greenhouse throughout the winter. The soil should remain moist and humid, but not waterlogged.

After the temps are warmer in the spring, the cutting should have established roots. They’re ready to be translated.

Planting from transplants

Buying a pre-grown cotoneaster in a container can be beneficial because you already know that the seeds have germinated and you can just transplant it and be done with it.

The cotoneaster seeds have been grown for you and are ready to be placed in your garden.

Sometimes, the extra price you pay is worth it for the time you save- especially since cotoneaster takes years to sow from seed.

Take the cotoneaster and remove it from the container carefully. Choose a good location in your yard for the transplant with high quality, well-draining soil.

Supplement with some aged compost, manure, or leaf matter. This will provide ample nutrients to the plant and help it reduce transplant shock.

If your soil has drainage issues, you can add in some peat moss, sand, or gravel to help improve the drainage at the bottom.

This allows the water to drain out rather than become waterlogged, which can cause root rot or mold problems at the root of your plant. Transplants generally fare well if purchased in the same hardiness zone raised in the same local conditions.

You can ask the nursery for the type of soil they use or get a soil sample and measure the metrics (pH, moisture, NPK, etc.) and try to emulate it at home. This will help prevent the cotoneaster from becoming shocked when you move it.

The actual process is easy. Just remove it from the container and watch out for the roots. They’re likely to be tangled together which will need to be untangled. Root matting is also common in transplants, so be careful of those.

The crown of the root ball should be at the soil level. The roots should be under the soil level.

Add your backfill to close the gap. Make sure that the soil you add isn’t compacted.

There’s no need to “press” the soil because this will just create a pathway for the water to go around the roots.

If you like, you can add some plant fertilizer when you transplant.

Bone meal can be used to supplement plant growth.

Depending on the size of your cotoneaster, you can add more or less. Use as directed. Opt for an organic or natural bone meal for the best results.

If you’re planting against your home’s exterior, trellis, or fence, be sure to position the plant so the “good” side is facing away from the surface. I mean, you do want to see the good side of your plant, right?

Water generously for the first time. This will help the water get saturated and create water pathways for it to flow. Get on a regular watering regimen after the initial watering and don’t overdo it.

Keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged.

Choosing a place to plant

Selecting a location for your cotoneaster to thrive should be the first thing you do to ensure plant success.

The area should be free of clumped or damp soil, objects that may shade the plant, or high winds and drafts. The plant needs full sun (direct) for at least 8 hours a day.

Cotoneaster will also grow tall and wide when full size, so allow ample space for this growth.

Note that cotoneaster doesn’t tolerate so much constant transplanting.

The new location should match the old one in terms of sunlight and substrate, which is why it’s important to get a soil sample from the nursery you buy it from (if you’re buying a planted cotoneaster in a container).

After you plant it for the first time, avoid moving it around. This is why you need to choose the initial planting location wisely.

Don’t expect that you’ll be able to transplant it again in the future.

The best areas should have full sun and at least partial sun if not.

Well-draining alkaline soil does well, but they can also tolerate acidic soil with a pH of 5 or higher. If you’re planting in a rock garden or hilled slope, check to make sure the soil profile has an acceptable pH.

Spacing

Cotoneaster will grow tall and wide, so allow plenty of space for this perennial beauty.

For lowriders that crawl on the soil surface, allow up to 5 feet of space for it to grow.

For climbing species, provide 6 feet of space. Larger plants need more space. Keep it simple.

Plant depth

Each plant hole should be twice as deep as the plant’s root ball.

As for width, you can go three times the width of the root ball’s diameter. The topsoil that you dig up can be used as backfill. Take care of any tangled or matted roots when you plant.

Don’t leave them like that.

The root ball’s tip should be at soil level. Remove any rocks or debris from the soil before planting. If you bought your plant at a nursery, they typically use some wires to wrap up the root.

Be sure to cut and remove these wires before planting them.

Soil

The soil should be of high quality, organic, and well-draining substrate with a pH of 5-8. The plant can tolerate both acidic and slightly alkaline conditions.

A fertile substrate that’s loose and not compacted will help improve drainage and keep the water from back flowing or getting stuck in the plot.

The soil can dry out, but it should be avoided.

Cotoneaster is drought tolerant to a degree, but only after they’ve become established with extensive root systems. If you let the soil go dry when the plant is still young, it can damage it.

Watering

Keep to a watering regimen that maintains soil moisture, but doesn’t let it go dry. Use your finger and dig into the top 1” of soil. It should be moist, but not wet.

You can use a soil moisture meter for precision watering.

Established cotoneaster plants that are older will do fine with less water as they’ve developed their drought resistance. But younger cotoneasters will need plenty of water during their first year of growth.

If you’re growing cotoneaster in containers, they need more watering sessions compared to those in the soil.

Container plants should be watered more often and monitored for soil saturation and never dried out. Whether or not the plant is established or not, the cotoneaster should be watered often.

Once in a while, you can overwater your plant.

Yes, you read that right. In the dry summertime, after a period of drought, let your soil go nearly dry and then add a bit more water than you usually do to let it bathe in the moisture.

Your plant will appreciate this as it simulates rain in the desert after a drought. But don’t overdo it and watch for plant wilt, drooping, or yellowing of the leaves. If you see any damage, go back to your normal watering schedule right away.

Water every week and increase the amount you water when summer approaches. Adjust as necessary.

Plant food

Cotoneaster does well with some plant fertilizer and appreciates it. If the plant is still young and growing, adding a high-quality fertilizer will help produce strong roots which will build up its drought tolerance.

A once a year dosage should be sufficient.

Use a balanced fertilizer and apply it in the early spring so it can benefit the new growth for the season. A 20-20-20 NPK rating should be sufficient. Use as directed.

If your soil has low nitrogen (N), you can opt for a 10-5-5 formula to supplement the lack of nitrogen.

Mulch regularly

Cotoneaster grows easily and will outcompete other plants in the area for food. This is why they’re considered to be invasive in many parts of the world.

However, they can still fall victim to weeds and other nutrient sucking foliage.

Adding mulch around the plant can help stop weeds from growing and retain the nutrients just for your cotoneaster. It also helps reduce overall water evaporation and keeps humidity in check, both of which save you time.

You’ll water less and you’ll prevent mold and fungus problems from excess moisture in the air. A thick blanket of mulch can benefit ground cover cotoneasters.

Mulch can also be an excellent way to protect your plants from temperature dips as a blanket of insulation. Although cotoneaster is hardy to a range of temps, it won’t do well if exposed to cold for an extended period.

Humidity requirements

Keep humidity low, especially in places where the foliage is dense.

Cotoneaster grows very dense leaves that will block sunlight and prevent evaporation, which raises the humidity where the leaves congregate. This attracts pests and fungal infections, which can both be prevented if the plant is properly trimmed at all times.

Cotoneaster will do fine even in drought conditions, so don’t be afraid to prune it to keep it tidy. Humidity should be kept low.

Temperature

Cotoneaster is a hardy, drought-tolerant plant. It grows well in full sunlight with temps on the higher side.

Aim for a range of 40-60F. If you selected a strain based on your hardiness zone, you should have no problem growing it and don’t have to worry about the temperatures.

But if you’re planting outside of your zone, you’ll need to do some research first to make sure it grows in your zone.

Sunlight

Cotoneaster grows to its fullest capacity in direct, full sun.

The sunlight helps grow the berries, branches, and flowers by providing enough UV light for rich development.

For the best growth and color production, plant your cotoneaster in a full sun location with at least 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. This will provide the best berries and more of them.

You’ll also get plenty of striking colors in the fall.

Ensuring that your plant receives enough sunlight is one of the most crucial things to look after your cotoneaster.

Partial sun works and will also nourish the plant, but won’t produce those striking fall colors and pome production as full sun.

But if your garden is tiny and you have no choice, then planting it in partial sun will be OK. Just provide plenty of plant food and water regularly.

Note that cotoneaster should not be planted in shade. It needs at minimum partial, direct sunlight every day. Full sun is optimal.

Growing in containers

Cotoneaster can be planted in a container, but you should choose one with a diameter that’s wide and deep enough for the plant to prosper.

Remember that this isn’t a small plant and will grow either horizontally and crawl or vertically and climb.

They need plenty of space to build a root system and large enough diameter for it to thrive.

Container grown plants generally produce fewer blooms and berries compared to soil-planted cotoneaster.

Pruning cotoneaster

Pruning should be done to keep your cotoneaster neat and tidy. If you don’t keep it trimmed, it’ll easily develop dense foliage that makes it look like a huge mess.

This plant grows rapidly and its leaves will cover up all your other plants.

Don’t starve your other plants because your cotoneaster is a little too greedy with sharing the sun!

Prune and trim regularly to keep it clean, reduce bacterial and fungal infections, and allow sunlight to go all around your garden. It also helps make it look more appealing, which is a necessity to enjoy those ripe, red berries.

By cutting off foliage where it’s not needed, the plant can redirect its energy to produce more berries and flowers, which are the highlights of the cotoneaster. Thin at the base and trim upwards.

Get rid of branches that are just plain ugly to look at overall.

When to trim

You should prune in the spring, right before the plant starts another cycle of leaf production.

Cut off last year’s leaves and spent flowers to make room for newer growth. This usually occurs around early spring, but may take as long as late spring in some cultivars.

Pruning should be done only after they flower. Trim from the base upwards.

How do you shape a cotoneaster?

When pruning, it’s just like any other shrub. Start by using a sterilized pair of pruners or scissors.

Put on your gloves and wear some long sleeves as those berries are toxic. And start by cutting any dried branches, spent flowers, or other foliage that’s not up to par.

Remove any branches or flowers that are infested with bacterial problems or insects so you don’t have to deal with them later.

You can cut the plant stems at the base where they branch out. If there’s new foliage or growth from the stem, you don’t have to cut the whole thing off. You can cut mid-stem or partially if necessary.

Check the center of your cotoneaster and remove any foliage that’s way too dense. This will make it look a lot cleaner and less disgusting, especially in areas with poor air movement.

Allowing more air to circulate provides more sunlight to areas of the plant that couldn’t get it before, and it also helps reduce the chance of bacterial or fungal infections.

If you want to shape it to look like something, there are plenty of videos online that show you how to do so.

For example, here’s one that details how to shape it as an indoor bonsai plant (and highly interesting:)

Other than that, it’s quite easy to prune it. The process isn’t much different from any other plant.

Just remove old growth and allow new growth. Get rid of foliage in dense areas.

And tidy up the plant to allow more light to reach all parts of it. That’s pretty much it.

Propagating cotoneaster

Cotoneaster can be propagated through cuttings or seeds.

If you have an established plant, you can harvest the ripe berries and collect the seeds for replanting or giving them away.

They need to be scarred first, then put through a period of cold stratification before it’s planted- as you read in the prior section of this guide.

You can also propagate through cuttings, which is a lot easier than seeds and takes less time. Germination is already done. The cutting just needs to root properly and you’ll be set for transplanting.

Other common FAQs about cotoneaster care

Cotoneaster with large, bright berries.
Have questions about looking after cotoneaster?

Here are some other commonly asked questions by readers who are new to caring for this bushy perennial. You may find these tips and tricks helpful for looking after your plant.

Will cotoneaster grow in shade?

Cotoneaster requires at least partial sun to grow. If your garden is well shaded, the plant won’t produce nearly as many berries or volume as planting it in direct sunlight.

Aim for at least 8 hours of direct sunlight per day.

Are the roots invasive?

Some strains of cotoneaster have been considered to be an invisible species all over the globe because of their easy propagation and hardiness. It grows on its own.

Some cultivars are invisible in the US, especially in California. Other countries (New Zealand, Australia, Europe, and British Columbia) also have noted some cultivars that are labeled to be invasive.

This is good news if you’re a newbie gardener- it means that this plant is highly forgiving for any beginner or rookie mistakes.

Do birds eat cotoneaster berries?

Yes, cotoneaster does attract birds to your yard.

Depending on the cultivar you’re growing, the birds that come differ. Look into cranberry cotoneaster, as its brightly-colored berries are known to bring a variety of different avian species to the garden.

Combine it with some bird-friendly feeders and birdhouses for best effect.

Is cotoneaster good for wildlife?

Cotoneaster will attract a variety of bird species in the winter as they harvest berries and other leaves to overwinter. You may also see a few different rodent and critter species come to your yard to eat or utilize the dense foliage of the plant.

Similar to how winter hollyberry attracts birds, cotoneaster is a plant that’s good for attracting wildlife to your garden. That’ll give you something to look forward to if you enjoy birdwatching or feeding wild animals.

Pests and diseases

A hardy cotoneaster is tolerant to most pests.
These are easy and beginner-friendly perennials that come back every year.

Cotoneaster is hardy to most wildlife, as they come and feed on it all the time without significant damage.

Birds tend to feast on the berries and the occasional deer or rabbit may take a nibble.

But it’s tolerant of minor damage and no action is needed.

Some pests are drawn to moisture-rich environments.

Since the leaves of this plant are so dense, bugs like aphids, scale, and other soft-bodied insects tend to aggregate below the leaves on the undersides.

They also suck up the nutrients from the soil using their piercing mouthpieces. They can lap up juice from the stems, branches, and foliage which can cause damage to younger plants.

Established cotoneasters take insects much more easily and can be pruned to remove any infestations. If you notice sticky residue on your cotoneaster, it’s likely honeydew from aphids.

Aphids can be controlled using insecticidal soap, pruning, or spraying down with a hose. Predatory beneficial insects like lacewings and ladybugs also help control aphid populations.

You can also spray essential oils (neem, lavender, peppermint, eucalyptus, etc.) to help control them. There are plenty of resources online for aphid control.

Spider mites may also be present on your leaves but are hard to see. They can be controlled with garden hoses and neem oil.

You can use particular oils, insecticidal soaps, or fungicides to help control some common pests and diseases of cotoneaster. Dormant oil and lime sulfur can help get rid of the scale.

Cotoneaster is prone to bacterial infections such as fire blight and powdery mildew.

Both of these can be controlled by regular pruning and reducing dense foliage. Fire blight is a bacterial infestation that causes limb damage and oozing twigs. You may also see darkened flowers or dried foliage.

Prune off damaged stems and leaves to help control and get rid of blight. If the entire plant is affected, it may need to be taken down.

Powdery mildew is caused by excess moisture. Regularly prune your leaves to allow airflow and circulation. You’ll see spores growing on the leaves and branches when the humidity is high.

Use well-draining soil and allow sun exposure to all parts of the plant by trimming it often.

Further reading

Here are some additional references you may find helpful:

Now you know how to grow cotoneaster

A cotoneaster plant in the wintertime.
Winterized cotoneaster.

You now have everything you need to grow and care for the cotoneaster in your garden.

This is a beginner-friendly plant if you’re growing from cuttings or transplanting from a pre-grown container plant.

Growing from seed is a bit more challenging, but nothing is stopping you from trying.

With its gorgeous bright berries, dense leaf cover, and multitude of uses, cotoneaster is a plant that’s outspoken by its similar cousin holly berry. It deserves more recognition.

The bright red pomes and attractive foliage are a prized feature to any garden that needs some color.

Or you can use it to help prevent erosion on sloped surfaces, such as hedge plants, rockery, pathing plants, wildlife attractants, indoor bonsai, or landscaping cover.

There are so many things you can do with this versatile shrub. And it comes back yearly to reward you over and over again. It doesn’t ask for much and has a lot to give.

Use it outdoors to climb your fences. Use it over the patio border to add some green. Plant it around your property line to hedge your front. Shape and trim it into fun designs. The choice is. yours.

So many choices. So little garden space! That’s the bane of every gardener, no?

What’d you think? Will you plant this perennial shrub in your garden? How will you use it? Please let me know in the comments section below.

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